Questions About Water Change And Lighting.

Good day all,

I’m doing my first 20% water change since being a new aquarium owner. My question is when I perform the change obviously I mix in my water conditioner in the new water however; do I also mix in my API QuickStart with that as well? I’ve heard mixed things about that. The bottle instructions says you should buy I’d rather ask the pros.

Second,

I’ve been running my Aquarium lights (LED) constantly. I don’t have any live plants with the exception of a Marimo moss ball in both tanks (if that even counts). I have two tanks, one with 6 Rasboras and a betta (they all get along great). The second has 5 small corys and I plan on dropping my betta in there as soon as the corys all get comfortable in the tank since they haven't been in there long. My question is should I be cycling the lighting? I read you should, I've also read you shouldn't and the misinformation is crazy on the internet. If I need to, could I buy an automatic timer that shuts the light of at 9PM and back on at 7AM the next morning? What is your guys advice?

Thanks for the help.

 

I can't respond to your first question as I cycled completely different.

I do recommend that you put your light on a timer.
I believe it's better on the fish and you will struggle less with algae.

 

Fish, like us do need a time of darkness. They may not sleep like us but they do need rest. I usually leave my lights on about 12 hours a day. So 12 hours of light and 12 of darkness.

 

do I also mix in my API with that as well?

In the vast majority of cases people don't use bottled bacteria product during water changes once the cycle's been established.

Any recommendation to do so by manufacturers is, I think, little more than an attempt to up sales.

Regarding the lighting, as skar, a timer is a cheap way to automate it. Most people try and limit their light exposure from 6-12 hours a day to minimise algae and ensure fish health (they too require some level of darkness).

 

Ive never used bottled bacteria, but I see people post about it and it seems like dumping it into the tank or the filter directly is the way to go. However, you said this is your first water change since being a new aquarium owner. How long has the tank been set up? Usually bottled bacteria is used in the initial water filling to jump-start the cycle.

6-8 hours of light is MORE than enough. They DEFINITELY need a dark period.

 

Is your light a 24/7? If not yes put it on a timer. No just add the prime or whatever your using to remove chlorine. How is your tap water?

 

My tap water isn’t too too bad but does need conditioner for sure. I will definitely get a timer for the lights today for consistency.

I do agree that I thought putting quick start in the water change isn’t needed and more of a sales ploy.

Bit nod my tanks are at 79 degrees, do you try to get your bucket of new water to that temp before adding to your tank?

Thanks everyone.

 

Yes I like to keep it within 5 degrees. Another idea instead of using water conditioners is to get an under counter water conditioner. Sold at Home Depot or Loews for around $35. One cartridge filters around 10,000gal. Just set it up to go from your faucet to tank or bucket using rubber hoses. Cheaper in the long run and your not adding chemicals.

 

Bit nod my tanks are at 79 degrees, do you try to get your of new water to that temp before adding to your tank?

Yep: I use a cheap digital kitchen thermometer with a probe. Quick read-outs, reasonably accurate.

Yes I like to keep it within 5 degrees. Another idea instead of using water conditioners is to get an under counter . Sold at Home Depot or Loews for around $35. One filters around 10,000gal. Just set it up to go from your faucet to tank or using rubber hoses. Cheaper in the long run and your not adding chemicals.

Filtration is an excellent idea. But there's a few caveats: chlorines and chloramines are removed through the use of activated carbon. The cheapest filters tend to just be a single stage, >1.0 micron mechanical filter.

In addition, there's different grades of activated carbon. Cheaper, "standard" grades generally work fine for chlorine removal, but it's not very good at removing chloramine (usually requires an inordinate amount of carbon). The more expensive, "catalytic" grade of activated carbon is much more effective at removing chloramines.

But not all water authorities add chloramines, so it might be worth investigating if you decide to go down the route of a filter.