Question About My 10 Gallon

I've had my 10 gallong set up for awhile. I've had nothing but issues out of it since day 1. I finally got it going good. I have the 8 week mark written on my calendar as July 8th I believe. My question is: would it hurt to go ahead and do a gravel cleaning or do I need to wait for the full 8 weeks? I have not did anything with it since I put these fancy goldfish x2 in it. I only have those 2 fish plus 1 cory catfish bottom sucker. I have nothing else. I didn't know if it's safe to clean it before 8 weeks or if I need to wait the full 8?

 

Have you tested the water conditions at all to see where the cycle is at?

Also are you using a filter and heater or just room temp?

 

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but those fish will not be okay in that tank. Fancy goldfish need a significantly larger tank to do well, with a 40 gallon being around the minimum for two. The cory also is not ideal, with goldfish, the temperature requirements are quite different, and it needs to be in a group of ideally 6 or more.

Try to rehome them or return to the store if possible, because long-term there will only be more issues. Also I don't know where you heard about the 8 weeks thing? I have never heard that mentioned before.

 

Have you tested the water conditions at all to see where the cycle is at?

Also are you using a filter and heater or just room temp?

Filter and heater and I do check using a 6 in 1 strip from time to time. I've had previous fish before but they ended up sadly padding away this is my 3rd set

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but those fish will not be okay in that tank. Fancy goldfish need a significantly larger tank to do well, with a 40 gallon being around the minimum for two. The cory also is not ideal, with goldfish, the temperature requirements are quite different, and it needs to be in a group of ideally 6 or more.

Try to rehome them or return to the store if possible, because long-term there will only be more issues. Also I don't know where you heard about the 8 weeks thing? I have never heard that mentioned before.

The fancies aren't stay forever they were just put in to cycle completely as soon as it's cycled they are going to my 55 gall and my Cory is fine. He's doing amazing right now. I had 3 total but some reason 2 passed away leaving only him. I do want to go get more of them tho... nd a friend of mine says wait 8 weeks to make sure it cycles fully 100%

 

It can take from 6-8 weeks to cycle naturally without assistance but if you've put bacteria in there (Prime or Starter) it should speed the process up. The only sure way to know is if you test the water and have 0 ammonia/nitrite, with nitrate increasing.

Your pH will be fluctuating until it completes a cycle. The Corys are bottom feeders, the one that survived may have been a bit stronger than the others but the bottom is generally where ammonia/nitrate concentration will be the worst during the initial stages.

You should be fine to do a small (20%) water change, but I probably wouldn't disturb the gravel to much just yet. That's me personally. But it may be fine to do so as your good bacteria should be forming nicely in your filter by now. Just don't wash the filter media with tap water.

What problems have you had so far?

Also from my knowledge. Goldfish are good from 10-30 degrees Celsius. Your Cory will be good from 22-28 degrees according to a quick search.
There's an article on here about goldfish that say ideal temp is 22C. Maybe sit around 24-26C

Both Cory and Goldfish are happy in pH from 6.8-7.8 so neutral (7.0) should be fine.

The statement about tank size is right though. If they grow to there adult size 10gal is much to small. But if you're moving them on if they're young now it shouldn't be an issue in terms of overcrowding.

 

READ FIRST: Freshwater Beginner Important Topics | Freshwater Aquarium Discussion Forum | 14296
Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle

 

It can take from 6-8 weeks to cycle naturally without assistance but if you've put bacteria in there (Prime or Starter) it should speed the process up. The only sure way to know is if you test the water and have 0 ammonia/nitrate, with nitrite increasing.

Your pH will be fluctuating until it completes a cycle. The Corys are bottom feeders, the one that survived may have been a bit stronger than the others but the bottom is generally where ammonia/nitrate concentration will be the worst during the initial stages.

You should be fine to do a small (20%) water change, but I probably wouldn't disturb the gravel to much just yet. That's me personally. But it may be fine to do so as your good bacteria should be forming nicely in your filter by now. Just don't wash the filter media with tap water.

What problems have you had so far?

Also from my knowledge. Goldfish are good from 10-30 degrees Celsius. Your Cory will be good from 22-28 degrees according to a quick search.
There's an article on here about goldfish that say ideal temp is 22C. Maybe sit around 24-26C

Both Cory and Goldfish are happy in pH from 6.8-7.8 so neutral (7.0) should be fine.

The statement about tank size is right though. If they grow to there adult size 10gal is much to small. But if you're moving them on if they're young now it shouldn't be an issue in terms of overcrowding.

I know lol I do plan on moving. I'll test my waters here in a little while and post the results. I have a wheel filter so it never gets cleaned. I just have never cleaned my gravel so it really needs it lol but I also didn't wanna mess anything up I also top it off with bottled water not tap. My heater also don't have a dial so it stays consistently unknown temp

Have you tested the water conditions at all to see where the cycle is at?

Also are you using a filter and heater or just room temp?

Ph is 6.2
Alkalinity 0
Chlorine 0
Hardness 150
Nitrite below 5.0 above 1.5 it's hard to see
Nitrate 80

My Nitrate always stays high tho

 

A cycled healthy tank will read:

0 ppm ammonia
0 ppm nitrite
0-40 ppm max nitrate in my opinion. This has to be kept low with water changes. Live plants help too but water changes have to be done still.

Usually a weekly part water change is enough but in your case this 10 gallon is not cycled either and needs daily water changes of 50% to lower those nitrites and a a lesser extent nitrates to safe levels for the fish. What about ammonia? Your PH is quite low have you tested your tap water?

 

A cycled healthy tank will read:

0 ppm ammonia
0 ppm nitrite
0-40 ppm max nitrate in my opinion. This has to be kept low with water changes. Live plants help too but water changes have to be done still.

Usually a weekly part water change is enough but in your case this 10 gallon is not cycled either and needs daily water changes of 50% to lower those nitrites and a a lesser extent nitrates to safe levels for the fish. What about ammonia? Your PH is quite low have you tested your tap water?

I have never changed the water in this tank I was told specifically not too. My fish are doing amazing tho... that's the weird thing. I NEVER add tap water to my small tank I only ever use bottled water Nestlé Pure Life to be exact. Like I said since day 1 my nitrates has ALWAYS been between 40-80. Idk why I can't get it any lower. I was told not to touch it for 8 weeks so I haven't touched it at all.

Tap water: ph 6.8
Alkalinity 40
Chlorine 1.0
Hardness 25
Nitrite 0
nitrate 0
Ammonia in tank and tap is 0

 

I have never changed the water in this tank I was told specifically not too. My fish are doing amazing tho... that's the weird thing. I NEVER add tap water to my small tank I only ever use bottled water Nestlé Pure Life to be exact. Like I said since day 1 my nitrates has ALWAYS been between 40-80. Idk why I can't get it any lower. I was told not to touch it for 8 weeks so I haven't touched it at all.

Tap water: ph 6.8
Alkalinity 40
Chlorine 1.0
Hardness 25
Nitrite 0
nitrate 0
Ammonia in tank and tap is 0

You received some really bad advice there not to change water during the cycle. It is a miracle the fish have survived so far without signs of illness. Ammonia and nitrite are toxic to fish even in low doses of 0.5ppm.

The whole idea of a fish in cycle is to use fish but to not subject them to these toxic conditions. Its basically water change and test everyday to monitor the cycle and keep the levels low until cycled.

Ahh test the mineral water then. The low PH is actually good for ammonia toxicity but doesn't change nitrite toxicity as far as I know.

Your nitrate levels will be high as 2 fancy goldfish are producing tons of waste.

Water changes and nitrates work like basic maths. So you have 80ppm nitrates. 50% water change drops it to 40ppm. 10% water change 72ppm. A 80% water change drops you to 16ppm.

So you can see small water changes are not going to work unless you have low bioload such as a few small fish in a large tank with plants. It may be worth not doing large water changes such as the 80% though as the sudden drop in nitrates can shock fish.

 

You received some really bad advice there not to change water during the cycle. It is a miracle the fish have survived so far without signs of illness. Ammonia and nitrite are toxic to fish even in low doses of 0.5ppm.

The whole idea of a fish in cycle is to use fish but to not subject them to these toxic conditions. Its basically water change and test everyday to monitor the cycle and keep the levels low until cycled.

Ahh test the mineral water then. The low PH is actually good for ammonia toxicity but doesn't change nitrite toxicity as far as I know.

Your nitrate levels will be high as 2 fancy goldfish are producing tons of waste.

Water changes and nitrates work like basic maths. So you have 80ppm nitrates. 50% water change drops it to 40ppm. 10% water change 72ppm. A 80% water change drops you to 16ppm.

So you can see small water changes are not going to work unless you have low bioload such as a few small fish in a large tank with plants. It may be worth not doing large water changes such as the 80% though as the sudden drop in nitrates can shock fish.

I'm definitely going to clean the gravel today for sure. I plan on taking all decor out and cleaning it good. Just afraid for my cory since he's so small. Don't need him sucked in my tube that would be bad

 

You really have received some old fashioned advice. Whoever said not to change water is uninformed about where the bacteria live.

DO NOT deep vacuum the gravel .
Do not clean the glass.
Do not clean the filter and definitely don’t replace the filter parts/ cartridge/ foam/ sponge or pads.

Yes you can clean the front panel of glass if you must.
Yes you can hover over the top of the gravel picking up solids ( poop ) but don’t push the hose deep down or into the gravel.

You can change a small amount of water every day .
Almost no bacteria live permanently in the water.

When the colonies of bacteria are fully established you can deep clean gravel. You can clean the glass and rinse the filter. It is however never recommended to do all three in the same fortnight.


Now the facts.
Only 30 or 40 years ago the advice you have been given was considered correct. In the last 30 years science has learnt of the nitrogen cycle. Some people do not want to know about the nitrogen cycle.

My advice is whenever you have someone talking of or mentioning “ good water “ smile and walk away.

 

You really have received some old fashioned advice. Whoever said not to change water is uninformed about where the bacteria live.

DO NOT deep vacuum the gravel .
Do not clean the glass.
Do not clean the filter and definitely don’t replace the filter parts/ cartridge/ foam/ sponge or pads.

Yes you can clean the front panel of glass if you must.
Yes you can hover over the top of the gravel picking up solids ( poop ) but don’t push the hose deep down or into the gravel.

You can change a small amount of water every day .
Almost no bacteria live permanently in the water.

When the colonies of bacteria are fully established you can deep clean gravel. You can clean the glass and rinse the filter. It is however never recommended to do all three in the same fortnight.


Now the facts.
Only 30 or 40 years ago the advice you have been given was considered correct. In the last 30 years science has learnt of the nitrogen cycle. Some people do not want to know about the nitrogen cycle.

My advice is whenever you have someone talking of or mentioning “ good water “ smile and walk away.

My filters don't have all that. It's the wheel that holds on the sides and turns as water flows over it. I do have free floating carbon in the back of the filter but the main is the rolling thing. Why would I know deep clean the gravel? It's been set up for over 2 months and I've never cleaned it.

 

In a different thread you said the fancy goldfish would go to your Friend, now your saying it's gonna be added to your extremely overstocked 55 gal. I really don't think it's a good option

 

In a different thread you said the fancy goldfish would go to your Friend, now your saying it's gonna be added to your extremely overstocked 55 gal. I really don't think it's a good option

As soon as I get rid of my 2 big fish and 1 pleco my fancies will be going into my 55 gall. I just found out today that he don't want his small ones back. But I also can't just move them to my 55 gall b.c my big fish are too aggressive towards them so I have to clean my big tank out first then they are getting moved over. Never before then.

 

My filters don't have all that. It's the wheel that holds on the sides and turns as water flows over it. I do have free floating carbon in the back of the filter but the main is the rolling thing. Why would I know deep clean the gravel? It's been set up for over 2 months and I've never cleaned it.

I'm not familiar with bio wheel filters but basically don't clean it out and don't vacuum the gravel deeply.

The good bacteria need to establish in the gravel and filter which is why its best left uncleaned until cycled.

If you haven't read this page allready please do. I'm just not sure you are fully aware of how an aquarium ecosystem works. You need to think of fish keeping that the water itself is the pet and the fish are just for show.

Click on this link - - - - > Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle

 

I'm not familiar with bio wheel filters but basically don't clean it out and don't vacuum the gravel deeply.

The good bacteria need to establish in the gravel and filter which is why its best left uncleaned until cycled.

If you haven't read this page allready please do. I'm just not sure you are fully aware of how an aquarium ecosystem works. You need to think of fish keeping that the water itself is the pet and the fish are just for show.

Click on this link - - - - > Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle

But isn't all the decaying food laying in the substrate causing my outlandish levels?? I have NEVER cleaned the gravel and it's been set up almost 3 months now!

 

But isn't all the decaying food laying in the substrate causing my outlandish levels?? I have NEVER cleaned the gravel and it's been set up almost 3 months now!

Possibly yes if it's really bad. Decaying food will be releasing ammonia. By all means go over the gravel and suck up what's on the surface layer. The problem here is that over cleaning your gravel will suck out good bacteria too.

After 3 months your tank should be cycled and it is very close from what your test results show. Problem is the bio load is to high for the good bacteria to process i think.

Adding extra filtration would be a good idea. A filter with sponge and ceramic bio media gives the good bacteria an excellent place to colonise.

Water changes are the most Important right now though to get your levels low.

 

Possibly yes if it's really bad. Decaying food will be releasing ammonia. By all means go over the gravel and suck up what's on the surface layer. The problem here is that over cleaning your gravel will suck out good bacteria too.

After 3 months your tank should be cycled and it is very close from what your test results show. Problem is the bio load is to high for the good bacteria to process i think.

Adding extra filtration would be a good idea. A filter with sponge and ceramic bio media gives the good bacteria an excellent place to colonise.

Water changes are the most Important right now though to get your levels low.

My tanks lid has no room or another filter. I had to cut a hole to make this one fit. It was originally on my 55 gal but I changed those and put it on my 10 gal. Idk why my nitrate and nitrite levels are so out of wack. Makes no sense for almost 3 months time and plenty of fish in and out.

 

But isn't all the decaying food laying in the substrate causing my outlandish levels?? I have NEVER cleaned the gravel and it's been set up almost 3 months now!

There are differing opinions. I have never cleaned or vacuumed the gravel in my tanks. They've been set up for years. So I don't think you need to be too concerned IMO. On the other hand, daily testing and water changes as indicated by your testing is how fish-in cycling is properly done to avoid damage to your fish. That damage may not be visible.

If you feel you must vac the substrate at least wait a few months so your biological filter can establish.

Also, why is there so much decaying food in your substrate. Maybe you need to reduce the amount you're feeding.

Don't clean the decor. Leave all hard surfaces alone for now. Give the bacteria time to establish.

You said your nitrites and nitrates are out of whack. You have high nitrates because you haven't done water changes. The nitrites are there because your tank is not yet cycled. I don't see anything out of whack about that.

 

There are differing opinions. I have never cleaned or vacuumed the gravel in my tanks. They've been set up for years. So I don't think you need to be too concerned IMO. On the other hand, daily testing and water changes as indicated by your testing is how fish-in cycling is properly done to avoid damage to your fish. That damage may not be visible.

If you feel you must vac the substrate at least wait a few months so your biological filter can establish.

Also, why is there so much decaying food in your substrate. Maybe you need to reduce the amount you're feeding.

Don't clean the decor. Leave all hard surfaces alone for now. Give the bacteria time to establish.

You said your nitrites and nitrates are out of whack. You have high nitrates because you haven't done water changes. The nitrites are there because your tank is not yet cycled. I don't see anything out of whack about that.

That makes me feel better. Like I said before it's been set up a couple months now with several fish in and out and every since day 1 everything been so high so it had me very worried I was doing something wrong. I only feed 2xs a day but its not much at either feeding. I'm not sure how much food is on my substrate since I can't physically see any but I can only imagine...

 

I'm back lol. So I am upgrading me 10 gallon to a 30 gallon. Problem is petco and petsmart has tanks but they come with a stand, which I don't need. Where is the best place to buy a 30 gallon kinda cheaply?

 

facebook msrket place 2nd hand online sort places

 

Are you sure they won't sell you an aquarium without stand? My Petco has tanks stacked high and wide often selling for $1 per gallon.

It seems short sighted on their part. If you don't need a stand we won't sell you a tank. Not a good business model. I have 6 aquariums from 5g to 50g, all from Petco. I built all the stands myself. They had no problem selling me tanks without stands.

 

I'm back lol. So I am upgrading me 10 gallon to a 30 gallon. Problem is petco and petsmart has tanks but they come with a stand, which I don't need. Where is the best place to buy a 30 gallon kinda cheaply?

Nashville, Franklin and Antioch and more Tennessee Petco's show to have Aqueon 29g on sale in store only for $40. Call first and make sure you're a rewards member.
Not sure we'll ever see the $1 gallon sale again.

 

I'm back lol. So I am upgrading me 10 gallon to a 30 gallon. Problem is petco and petsmart has tanks but they come with a stand, which I don't need. Where is the best place to buy a 30 gallon kinda cheaply?

I dunno what you are talking about, you can just buy a bare tank at Petco . Right now they have 50% off up to 30 gallons, and select larger tanks through the end of july. this replaced their dollar per gallon annual sale (you know, inflation, lol it's stilla good deal at 50% off)
You do have to sign up as a "pals reward member" but that's free and you can do that same day.


Might be hard to find one in stock this late in the game, but yeah, you don't need to buy anything beside the tank itself.

 

facebook msrket place 2nd hand online sort places

I've been on fb. Can't Find any 30 gall. The ones I do find it more tall then Long and I need more length then tallness

Are you sure they won't sell you an aquarium without stand? My Petco has tanks stacked high and wide often selling for $1 per gallon.

It seems short sighted on their part. If you don't need a stand we won't sell you a tank. Not a good business model. I have 6 aquariums from 5g to 50g, all from Petco. I built all the stands myself. They had no problem selling me tanks without stands.

I guess it wouldn't hurt just to call and ask them. I looked online and it didn't give me that option.

Nashville, Franklin and Antioch and more Tennessee Petco's show to have Aqueon 29g on sale in store only for $40. Call first and make sure you're a rewards member.
Not sure we'll ever see the $1 gallon sale again.

Unfortunately I live way too far from them! I live 2 1/2 hours south of Nashville. I'm closer to Alabama. I always end up going to Florence versus anywhere else.

I dunno what you are talking about, you can just buy a bare tank at Petco . Right now they have 50% off up to 30 gallons, and select larger tanks through the end of july. this replaced their dollar per gallon annual sale (you know, inflation, lol it's stilla good deal at 50% off)
You do have to sign up as a "pals reward member" but that's free and you can do that same day.


Might be hard to find one in stock this late in the game, but yeah, you don't need to buy anything beside the tank itself.

Um where is this sale? Lol I'll definitely check petco in Alabama for sure! I looked online but not in store yet.
I checked the website with 50% OFF but it's not available in my area that is close to me.

 

Look, i'm trying to be helpful, Check again, check the other local petcos.
Select same day shipping and enter your information. you can apply for the pal rewards member online also if one of them has it. I have no idea of your zip code or any of that jazz and not looking for it either, I'm just saying one of their stores might serve your area with SD delivery, instead of you going to them, maybe not if you are in the middle of nowhere....

"The 50% off Select Tank sale is only available for in store or curbside pickup sales, and also Same Day Delivery on 10-29 gallon Tanks"

Just put your zipcode in the "deliver to" and go through the tanks and see if any of them offered the same day delivery option. For sure Florence petco, just doesn't do it or apparently don't have a whole lot of anything available.
they have them in the Huntsville/Madison area in store, no idea if you can get same day delivery or not though but might have it.
on the other hand, If I guessed by the description of "2-1/2 hours south of Nashville" and you were in the general area of Lawerenceburg Tennessee , driving to Madison is 20 minutes longer than driving to Florence Alabama from there, Still better than going to Nashville by 1 hour+.

Springhill Tennessee Petco shows in stock, and something like 1h20m from lawrenceburg (still just taking a random guess, it's the only place I can think of that's like 2-1/2 hours south of Nashville.

I'm trying. LOL
20 gallon Long tank is the same footprint as the 29 gallon for horizontal swimming space, the 29g is just taller/deeper.

 

Look, i'm trying to be helpful, Check again, check the other local petcos.
Select same day shipping and enter your information. you can apply for the pal rewards member online also if one of them has it. I have no idea of your zip code or any of that jazz and not looking for it either, I'm just saying one of their stores might serve your area with SD delivery, instead of you going to them, maybe not if you are in the middle of nowhere....

"The 50% off Select Tank sale is only available for in store or curbside pickup sales, and also Same Day Delivery on 10-29 gallon Tanks"

Just put your zipcode in the "deliver to" and go through the tanks and see if any of them offered the same day delivery option. For sure Florence petco, just doesn't do it or apparently don't have a whole lot of anything available.
they have them in the Huntsville/Madison area in store, no idea if you can get same day delivery or not though but might have it.
on the other hand, If I guessed by the description of "2-1/2 hours south of Nashville" and you were in the general area of Lawerenceburg Tennessee , driving to Madison is 20 minutes longer than driving to Florence Alabama from there, Still better than going to Nashville by 1 hour+.

Springhill Tennessee Petco shows in stock, and something like 1h20m from lawrenceburg (still just taking a random guess, it's the only place I can think of that's like 2-1/2 hours south of Nashville.

I'm trying. LOL
20 gallon Long tank is the same footprint as the 29 gallon for horizontal swimming space, the 29g is just taller/deeper.

I really appreciate your help! I had to come to Florence alabama anyways so I'm just going to stop by and just see what they have. If all else fails I'll definitely order online for sure!

 

Long instead of tall would be more like a 20 long or 40 breeder, most of the 29g that are readily available will be more to the tall side.

 

Long instead of tall would be more like a 20 long or 40 breeder, most of the 29g that are readily available will be more to the tall side.

I ended up with a 29 gallon and now I wish I would have found something more long but I think they will be happy either way. It's more space and that's all they need

 

Quick question: I've been doing some reading and some research and wanted your guys opinions. I've read that if you take a new tank, add 50% of the water from your old tank, put it in your new tank, then just add the rest of dechlorinated water to fill it, you can place your fish in it immediately. They say it would automatically instantly cycle. I find this hard to believe but what do you guys think? I also can't add my old filter to me new tank. To do that I would have to cut the lid and I really don't want to do that. Also it's a rolling filter not a regular. It works with a wheel not regular filters. The only thing I may can add to me new tank would be the sponges I have shoved down the back, but idk if that's even safe. I am going to test my waters tonight tho in my 10 gallon. I didn't test them last night when I tested my 55 gallon.

 

I would take the media from the old tank filter and put it all in the new filter keep all the Decorations and gravel uncleanness preferably add more gravel to fill out substrate and put new water making sure to treat it and match temp then move fish over and test water daily till its fully cycles

 

if you want any problem the other tanks have for problemsin your new tank, and be a problem there also,, go ahead and use them to cycle the new tank.

No, simply moving water over isn't going to cycle the tank, it should move some sort of bacteria over in small quantities, but nothing even close to an "instant cycle". and instant cycle would be moving a filter and established bacteria colony that is sized for the fish, over to a new tank.

Again though, if you have any doubt about your other tanks and them remaining problem free, I do not recommend you start this tank off those cycles. it's just asking for a 3rd problem, on top of the first two. let this one build new and separately, and worst case use it to do a big clean on the others and start their cycles new off this one when it's done if they keep giving you problems. a fresh start, with a tank you did from scratch and hopefully no problems.

You would not have been happy with a 20 long, I have one, the extra 6" of depth on the 29 makes all the difference in the world. the 20L seems so tiny, like a stretched 10g, it's the same footprint of the 29g, just 6 " shorter and 9 gallons less water.
a 40 gallon long, is pretty sweet, but not cheap,, and that's not something you are gonna find just anywhere either. places rarely have those laying around.
it's like my white whale tank, a 15g High. Same footprint as a 10g but 6" deeper. NOBODY has them at any price. I want those for my 10g tank stand for the top and bottom shelves....... grrr.

 

From what I understand by the poster's other thread only issue is overstocked tanks that aren't cycled moving substrate and media over would help new tank cycle faster could also use bacteria starter to speed it up

 

I tested my 55 gallon last night and it's cycled 100% perfectly no issues. I just tested my 10 gallon and welp here's the results... I didn't think it was a good idea. Lol I do plan on using the same gravel and decor but starting new filter new media new water all new everything. Once is cycles I'll put decor and fish same day but not instantly.

if you want any problem the other tanks have for problemsin your new tank, and be a problem there also,, go ahead and use them to cycle the new tank.

No, simply moving water over isn't going to cycle the tank, it should move some sort of bacteria over in small quantities, but nothing even close to an "instant cycle". and instant cycle would be moving a filter and established bacteria colony that is sized for the fish, over to a new tank.

Again though, if you have any doubt about your other tanks and them remaining problem free, I do not recommend you start this tank off those cycles. it's just asking for a 3rd problem, on top of the first two. let this one build new and separately, and worst case use it to do a big clean on the others and start their cycles new off this one when it's done if they keep giving you problems. a fresh start, with a tank you did from scratch and hopefully no problems.

You would not have been happy with a 20 long, I have one, the extra 6" of depth on the 29 makes all the difference in the world. the 20L seems so tiny, like a stretched 10g, it's the same footprint of the 29g, just 6 " shorter and 9 gallons less water.
a 40 gallon long, is pretty sweet, but not cheap,, and that's not something you are gonna find just anywhere either. places rarely have those laying around.
it's like my white whale tank, a 15g High. Same footprint as a 10g but 6" deeper. NOBODY has them at any price. I want those for my 10g tank stand for the top and bottom shelves....... grrr.

I like my 29 gallon but just afraid it's not Long enough. I know it's going to be better then this 10 gallon and I hope they like it. I have decided to put everything new in this new tank. I will reuse the same decor from the 10 gall and a rock from My 55 gall and possibly the same rocks but that's it. I'm using all new water and new filter. I also will use the same air stones and air pump tho.

 

If changing filter media I'd recommend using a bacteria starter to cycle tank faster I use tetra safe start im sure others can give you different ones that work if you can't find it in your area

 

If changing filter media I'd recommend using a bacteria starter to cycle tank faster I use tetra safe start im sure others can give you different ones that work if you can't find it in your area

I've heard alot about that and decided to not go that way. Alot of bad reviews. I did buy these tho...

Stability
Prime
Fritz Aquatics Fishless Fuel Ammonia Solution for Aquariums

Since I've had too many issues out of my 55 and 10 I'm doing this one differently. I'm adding all new stuff. Once it's cycled I'll add decor, remaining gravel and bubbler then I'll add the fish but not until it's cycled completely to avoid any future problems. I'm also getting rid of my 10 gall once I get this 29 going. I was going to use my existing canister but it's too big so I'm using the filter it came with which is a 30 gall filter. I bought the tank set up instead of the tank by itself.