Quarantining Otos

AngryRainbow

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I've got 6 otos currently in quarantine. I don't run my QTs when not in use, so the tank is obviously too clean for them. But I've added a cycled sponge filter, a piece of driftwood from one of my established tanks, and I dose daily with Bacter ae as well as feed cucumber or zucchinI nightly. After a week, they still have their nice little plump bellys (not too plump though) so I think this routine will work to get them through my planned 4 week quarantine.

I don't usually preemptively treat with meds, but I know wild caught otos ( not positive mine are but I know they're hard to farm so just assuming they are wild caught) can come with parasites, so I'd like to at least treat for those. I've got metroplex, fish bendazole, and levamisole in my fish medicine cabinet, but I've always dosed fish food to target internal parasites. Would dosing the water column be sufficient for the otos since I don't feed them anything that I can really dose? Which meds would be effective while not being too harsh on these little guys?
 

kallililly1973

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Personally I wouldn't medicate with anything until and only if you see an issue. Then again I don't quarantine any of my fish. So i'm probably not much help. I've always just acclimated my otto's and everyone else for 30 minutes adding tank water to their bag every 10 minutes and put them in the tank after pouring the water out into a bucket and netting them and their all fine. I have 7 in my 55
 
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AngryRainbow

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Thanks for the reply. Ill put off on medicating but I'd still like to quarantine them. I got lazy with quarantining previously and got some nasty things a couple times, hence my wide array of medicine choices I have on hand lol.

I know to watch out for the classic white poop, physical worms sticking out, and wasting away with internal parasites, but are there any more subtle signs I should watch out for?
 

LeahsTank

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Following. I just bought 5 of the little guys and am QTing them now.
 

kallililly1973

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I'm sure others will chime in but I think you have it pretty well covered.One u didn't mention white Ick spots but i'm sure you will know if they have that.
 
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AngryRainbow

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Yep, I know to watch out for ich, thanks! Just more paranoid about the unseen threats
 

Tol

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I personally would not medicate Otos either unless you know something is needed. They are either going to make it or they are not. One of the biggest reasons they die off shortly after getting them is starvation. You might give them plenty of algae or other food, and they may even eat it but starve just the same. They have symbiotic bacteria in their stomachs (like cows do) that help them digest their food. If the bacteria has died off, they will starve as most times they will not recover from that. If your Otos have nice rounded bellies they should be fine in that regard. Also I would move them to the matured tank if it were me. They will be happier with the plants, biofilm, and algae it can provide but as long as they are eating, you can keep them in QT longer if you like.
 

kallililly1973

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You appear to have it pretty much covered. One other suggestion I could make non disease related is while they are in your QT you could try to introduce veggies to see if they will take to them cause I try to do it with mine ( zucchinI ) but rarely see them going for it which i'm assuming there is much better tasting stuff in the tank on the glass, plants, and driftwood. Good luck with them!
 

Platylover

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AngryRainbow said:
Thanks for the reply. Ill put off on medicating but I'd still like to quarantine them. I got lazy with quarantining previously and got some nasty things a couple times, hence my wide array of medicine choices I have on hand lol.

I know to watch out for the classic white poop, physical worms sticking out, and wasting away with internal parasites, but are there any more subtle signs I should watch out for?
Yes, QT’ing is a great idea! Not doing so will eventually lead to negative things happening, particularly if you don’t buy from trusted sources.

These aren’t necessarily parasite specific, but if they are losing significant coloration(it’s normal for colours to be slightly dull in QT), hiding constantly (again, not abnormal in QT if you come up to the tank, but if you never see them out from a distance that can be worrisome), or ratty fins then these can be signs of sickness.
 

jmaldo

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AngryRainbow
Congrats!
QT, no meds unless needed.
You're off to a good start.

Good Luck!
 
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AngryRainbow

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Thanks for all the encouragement and advice! I currently have 3 otos in my 120 gallon tank that these will be joining after qt. I made sure not to buy any with sunken bellys knowing they don't recover well from starvation. Will 4 weeks be long enough to weed out the ones that won't make it? The 120 gallon is pretty well planted and if any died after I added them I probably wouldn't see the body in time to avoid decomposition.
 

RSababady

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I donot use medication in QT, but do add a small dosage of H2O2 daily - that will clean up any bacteria / algae around and help heal any scars or damages.
 

Tol

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4 Weeks should be plenty. I never even quarantined any of mine and they were fine. Out of 8 I have purchased I only lost 2 within the first week.
 

kallililly1973

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AngryRainbow said:
Thanks for all the encouragement and advice! I currently have 3 otos in my 120 gallon tank that these will be joining after qt. I made sure not to buy any with sunken bellys knowing they don't recover well from starvation. Will 4 weeks be long enough to weed out the ones that won't make it? The 120 gallon is pretty well planted and if any died after I added them I probably wouldn't see the body in time to avoid decomposition.
Being that their going into a 120 if one didn't make it you would probably never have to worry about any ammonia anyways being their so small and the other inhabitants will make quick work of their tiny bodies.
 

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One other suggestion - you can put clean, aquarium-safe rocks in a clear container with used tank water and put it in the sun to grow algae. Then put algae rocks in tank, clean rocks in algae tank and so forth.
 

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