Pvc Overflow Issues

Discussion in 'Sump' started by Kilchisblue, Aug 2, 2018.

  1. KilchisblueNew MemberMember

    Let me start by saying that I understand this has probably been answered before. I have been reading and tinkering with this bloody thing for a week now.... If you have a good link please put it up.

    Ok, I made a PVC overflow similar to kingdiy on Youtube. The main differences are:
    1. Threaded 3/4 inch PVC instead of slip/glue. All connections have thread tape and do not appear to leak.lea.
    2. I have not, yet, hooked up a check valve. Thus, to prime it at the start I dunked it and shook/tilted the air out.
    3. The vent tube, tallest pipe, is fully capped off. It does not vent. I did this because with it vented the flow stopped and began to flood the tank. I have a spare cap with a hole drilled in it but after trial and error lastnight I stuck with the sealed cap because it worked.

    My problem is that it will not restart if I test a "power outage"

    As for modifications, I have a new elbow piece that I have siliconed a hose barb into. I can simply unscrew the old, replace with new, connect check valve and by on my merry way. This will be done tomorrow after the silicone cures.
    Additionally I'm thinking of getting an aqualifter to put in place of a check valve.

    The outside tube sits aprox 1/2 inch higher than the inside tube. Its because of how far some pieces are threaded as opposed to others.

    Can anybody shed some light on what I am doing wrong or why it only seems to work with the vent sealed?

    Pictures.... I will put some up. I can't right now figure out how.

    Cheers!
     
  2. KilchisblueNew MemberMember

    1533259571064-1438967525.jpg15332596390871924142689.jpg
     
  3. KilchisblueNew MemberMember

    I thought that my return line might be too small. Today is my grand rebuild, add check valve, vent top tube, replace return hose with larger hose.
    Ill post my results, crossing my fingers.

    Also I had a crazy idea, would it work to connect my return to a T that attached to the check valve, use suction of water falling through return to draw out air constantly?
     
  4. bigdreamsWell Known MemberMember

    My suggestion is setting up a proper Herbie style overflow, with two drain lines, one at full siphon through other as emergency drain line. Sump will be silent this way. Yes it means either drilling tank or getting an overflow box (I recommend eshopps 1100). king of DIY's DIY project is a nice project but I wouldn't risk ruining my hardwood floors from a clogged drain. Yes it happens. Maybe if tank were in basement i would try it. This is one area I wouldn't mess around with. Oh yeah, make sure you have a GFCI outlet or adapter to keep you safe. If you really want to DIY, then make the overflow box yourself.

     


    Good luck and stay dry!
     
  5. KilchisblueNew MemberMember

    Check valve added, I've increased return line size. Still sucks air when I do a power outage test. Seriously hitting a wall here.

    ANY IDEAS?
     
  6. KilchisblueNew MemberMember

    Thanks for the reply!
    I think I'm going to buy an aqualifter after all this riff raff.

    I just can't figure out why this overflow doesn't seem to work as it is supposed to. Apparently some people use them without issues.

    If I have to take my tank down at any point I will definitely be drilling it!
     
  7. KilchisblueNew MemberMember

    Oh for anybody else I figured out you can run a long air line from the check valve and start a siphon on it. It will continuously purge air bubbles but if the power goes it will lose siphon. So it can maintain a strong siphon but not start it.
     
  8. KilchisblueNew MemberMember

    15335153515622032797227.jpg here is the latest. No leaks. No air in tube unless power goes out. I am truly stumped why it will not restart on its own....
     

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