Please help my ADF

I have an African Dwarf frog. He lives in a large 5 gallon tank that I moved him into this morning, from a .5 gallon tank. Usually I can feed him blood worms with tweezers, but the tank is either so crowded or so large they he can't get to them, or see them. He's singing a bit in the new tank.

This new tank has a filter, a thermometer, and is currently being cycled. I don't know what to do. Why won't he eat yet? I don't have a feeding dish, as the one I bought floats, and I can't get to the pet store anytime soon. The bloodworms and food pellets are now just floating on the ground. I feel so unprepared.

I would ask this in the African Dwarf Frog group on Facebook, but my account is restricted from posting or commenting for 7 more days. Any advice is kindly appreciated.

Tank includes:
1 large plant that covers the top of the tank

2 smaller plants to fill it in

1 small terracotta pot from his first tank

HAD a pink hidey spot, took up too much space.

And has one adult male ADF (soon to have a friend)

 

Give him some time to settle in. If he won't eat in a few days then there might be an issue.

The tank has a tight lid with no gaps right? And any gravel or sand from the old tank moved to the new one? That will really help the cycling.

 

Give him some time to settle in. If he won't eat in a few days then there might be an issue.

The tank has a tight lid with no gaps right? And any gravel or sand from the old tank moved to the new one? That will really help the cycling.

No for the gravel. I don't want gravel in this tank. Tight lid, though, except a few gaps around the filter. Thank you

 

Second day feeding, no luck. It looks like the filter moves the food too fast for him to catch.

 

If you didn't move the gravel into the new tank then it's going to take a while to cycle. Can you move your filter media from your last tank? He's probably getting used to the new tank and parameters of the new water. I would test the water to see how high your ammonia is. If he is stressed from ammonia and nitrites being high then they won't eat.

 

If you didn't move the gravel into the new tank then it's going to take a while to cycle. Can you move your filter media from your last tank? He's probably getting used to the new tank and parameters of the new water. I would test the water to see how high your ammonia is. If he is stressed from ammonia and nitrites being high then they won't eat.

I moved his only decoration from that tank, a small pot, without cleaning it. The ammonia and nitrates/nitrites are at 0. I have not dosed with prime or stability at all since moving him in.

 

I moved his only decoration from that tank, a small pot, without cleaning it. The ammonia and nitrates/nitrites are at 0. I have not dosed with prime or stability at all since moving him in.

Do you use a water conditioner besides prime? Because otherwise, you should be using that every time you do a water change

 

I moved his only decoration from that tank, a small pot, without cleaning it. The ammonia and nitrates/nitrites are at 0. I have not dosed with prime or stability at all since moving him in.

Third day, he ate. Fourth, no cigar. Haven't fed him yet today. I'm trying to set a certain time for feeding him. He only seems to eat the pellets if they drop in front of his face, which is wasting a ton of food,

Do you use a water conditioner besides prime? Because otherwise, you should be using that every time you do a water change

You dose with prime once your ammonia spikes. That's what I've been told by Suzy from the Facebook group, and others.

Third day, he ate. Fourth, no cigar. Haven't fed him yet today. I'm trying to set a certain time for feeding him. He only seems to eat the pellets if they drop in front of his face, which is wasting a ton of food, and I haven't had any luck with blood worms.

 

Third day, he ate. Fourth, no cigar. Haven't fed him yet today. I'm trying to set a certain time for feeding him. He only seems to eat the pellets if they drop in front of his face, which is wasting a ton of food,

You dose with prime once your ammonia spikes. That's what I've been told by Suzy from the Facebook group, and others.

Third day, he ate. Fourth, no cigar. Haven't fed him yet today. I'm trying to set a certain time for feeding him. He only seems to eat the pellets if they drop in front of his face, which is wasting a ton of food, and I haven't had any luck with blood worms.

You dose with prime every time you do a water change. It is a dechlorinator, not just an ammonia/nitrite neutralizer. If you’re not using something other than that, you need to dose your tank with that so your frog is safe from the chlorine from your water source. Especially if you’re using tap water!

 

If I'm wrong, please tell me. I just want to get the cycle started for him.

You dose with prime every time you do a water change. It is a dechlorinator, not just an ammonia/nitrite neutralizer. If you’re not using something other than that, you need to dose your tank with that so your frog is safe from the chlorine from your water source. Especially if you’re using tap water!

I do. I was told to use 1 dose of prime for ammonia and double/triple it if fit? Or, should I be using stability? Both are seachem.

 

If ammonia and nitrites equal 1ppm or more, the best solution is just to change the water and dose the new water with prime. Prime makes the ammonia safe for 24 hours and you can keep dosing to make it safe, but water changes are also necessary to cycling since your frog is in there while you’re doing it. I suggest Lucy help you out since she’s an ADF guru. Good luck!

 

If ammonia and nitrites equal 1ppm or more, the best solution is just to change the water and dose the new water with prime. Prime makes the ammonia safe for 24 hours and you can keep dosing to make it safe, but water changes are also necessary to cycling since your frog is in there while you’re doing it. I suggest Lucy help you out since she’s an ADF guru. Good luck!

I don't know if this is true. Sorry, just trying to do what's best for my frog. All sources online say otherwise, and Suzy from the ADF Facebook group has a file on cycling that says otherwise as well?

 

Hi!
A couple of things, if you're feeding pellets, only give him a couple. That way you're not wasting food and it won't foul the water if it beaks breaks down.
Remove any left over food

If the filter to to strong put a filter sponge over the intake. That should help slow it down a bit. If not, try sticking it in the outflow.


Since he's in an uncycled tank it would be a good idea to do daily water changes or very other day water changes until the cycle is complete.

Like Peachsonas said use a water conditioner like Prime that will detox the ammonia for 24hrs.

The image you posted looks like cycling instructions if you didn't have any live stock.
Since you do, it's best not to let the ammonia get that high. It will be extremely toxic to your frog.

 

Hi!
A couple of things, if you're feeding pellets, only give him a couple. That way you're not wasting food and it won't foul the water if it beaks breaks down.
Remove any left over food

If the filter to to strong put a filter sponge over the intake. That should help slow it down a bit. If not, try sticking it in the outflow.


Since he's in an uncycled tank it would be a good idea to do daily water changes or very other day water changes until the cycle is complete.

Like Peachsonas said use a water conditioner like Prime that will detox the ammonia for 24hrs.

The image you posted looks like cycling instructions if you didn't have any live stock.
Since you do, it's best not to let the ammonia get that high. It will be extremely toxic to your frog.

I see, thank you both for telling me. It's still at 0 thankfully. How do i change the water? Should I change it all completely?

 

Not all of it. Since you're cycling, 25 to 50 % is a good idea. Let our water readings be your guide. Get a test kit if you don't have one.
This should help:
1-2-3 easy aquarium siphon instructions - video | Cleaning and Maintenance Forum | 19653

You can use a pitcher and a bucket since it's a small tank.

Can you post a picture of your tank?

 

And like everyone said, Everytime you take new water from the tap either dose it with prime or let it sit out with access to air for 24 hours before using it to get rid of chlorine which is very deadly for fish and frogs and will hinder your cycling process because it kills the bacteria which eats your ammonia and nitrites (A cycled tank is a tank which has at least 3 kinds of bacteria to convert your ammonia into nitrite and your nitrite into nitrate, nitrates are the only non lethal item in small quantities which are lowered from partial water changes). If your nitrates are at zero then your tank isn't cycled yet and all that uneaten food is turning into ammonia and when the fish pees it is ammonia. I didn't have time to do the fishless cycle, which takes several months, so I cycled my tank with my frogs and fish in the tank. You have to buy a water testing kit to know what's going on in your water that you don't see. I did Partial water changes of 25% to 40% every 3 or 4 days and dosed with prime when my ammonia went over .25 ppm (never change all your water at one time) Eventually my nitrites and ammonia started lowering after I noticed the presence of nitrates in my tank. After that your ammonia and nitrites should stay low and you do partial water changes when you notice your nitrates getting high. But let me remind you again, every time you get new water from the tap dose it with prime or let it sit out in the air for 24 hours.