Platies Laying On Bottom With Clamped Fins???

A couple of days ago, I noticed that one of my 3 platies was hiding and laying on the bottom with clamped fins, at first I thought it was because he was getting chased by the other platies, but, today all of the platies were laying on the bottom with clamped fins and motionless.

What is the problem? All of the other fish in the tank are acting normal, it's just the platies...

I did add two new fish to the tank two weeks ago, so could it be a disease of some sort? (If so, how are the other fish not affected?)

 

Have you tested the water - pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate? That's usually the first thing I do if my fish act off. It is also possible your new fish introduced something.

 

Have you tested the water - pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate? That's usually the first thing I do if my fish act off. It is also possible your new fish introduced something.

I tested Ammonia and Nitrate Yesterday.
Ammonia is .25 (My aquarium is cycled, I think I am going through a minI cycle because of the addition f the new fish.)
Nitrate is 10
I was be doing a 35% water change today

 

What is the pH, temp, nitrite?

 

What is the pH, temp, nitrite?

pH: 7.6
Nitrite: 0
Temp: 74F

 

A couple of days ago, I noticed that one of my 3 platies was hiding and laying on the bottom with clamped fins, at first I thought it was because he was getting chased by the other platies, but, today all of the platies were laying on the bottom with clamped fins and motionless.

What is the problem? All of the other fish in the tank are acting normal, it's just the platies...

I did add two new fish to the tank two weeks ago, so could it be a disease of some sort? (If so, how are the other fish not affected?)

Hello Z...

Odd behavior is generally water related. What's your water change routine? You should be removing and replacing half the tank water weekly. If not, you're leaving too much toxic water in the tank. The toxins are likely stressing your fish.

Old

 

Hello Z...

Odd behavior is generally water related. What's your water change routine? You should be removing and replacing half the tank water weekly. If not, you're leaving too much toxic water in the tank. The toxins are likely stressing your fish.

Old

I do 35% water changes weekly because my stock isn't at a 100% yet and the 35% water changes keep the Nitrates below 30.

What I did notice today is little white spots on the fins of the fish, I am not really sure but I think it is ick, could that be the problem?

 

Little white spots could potentially be ich and definite cause for why they are behaving that way. Can you get a picture?

 

Little white spots could potentially be ich and definite cause for why they are behaving that way. Can you get a picture?

Ok, the white spots are mostly on the tail, not the whole body, I don't know if that matters, but here are some pictures:

 

Looks like it could be ich but hard to tell. Let's wait for more opinions.

 

Looks like it could be ich but hard to tell. Let's wait for more opinions.

The platy also has 1-2 dots on the dorsal and analfins.
Oh and I also see super small dots on the caudal fins of one of my guppies

 

I'm thinking the addition of fish is what brought this on. If it's definitely ich, I'd start using the heat method.

 

looks like ich to me. I would start treating asap

 

I'm thinking the addition of fish is what brought this on. If it's definitely ich, I'd start using the heat method.

I am too, but I am not 100% sure if its ick or not, so I don't want to stress the fish out even more.
Also, with the heat method, I have to raise the water temp to 78F, correct? I have neon tetras and their maximum temp is 74F, will they be ok with 78?

looks like ich to me. I would start treating asap

What treatment method should I use?

 

I am too, but I am not 100% sure if its ick or not, so I don't want to stress the fish out even more.
Also, with the heat method, I have to raise the water temp to 78F, correct? I have neon tetras and their maximum temp is 74F, will they be ok with 78?

No, you would need to raise it to 86F and keep it there for 2 weeks to ensure the ich is completely gone. Add an airstone and do a water change/gravel vac every other day to pick up the ich spores.

Raising it to 86F is just temporary so your fish will be fine for those 2 weeks.

 

No, you would need to raise it to 86F and keep it there for 2 weeks to ensure the ich is completely gone. Add an airstone and do a water change/gravel vac every other day to pick up the ich spores.

Raising it to 86F is just temporary so your fish will be fine for those 2 weeks.

Would you recommend the heat method or would using ick medication be better because I can get medication tomorrow if needed?

 

I've never liked using meds if I didn't have to. I've used the heat method successfully in the past (cheaper too!).

 

There seem to be an ongoing heated discussion about what method is best here. I only used heat method, it worked rapidly and very well in my case. I think though you have a more advanced case, medications maybe better. If you don't have invertabrates, I think you don,t need to worry. For meds, follow the directions on the bottle, but most often, you still need to bring the temperature to 82 slowly and remove carbon from your filter if using. For heat, temperature needs to be 86 for 2 weeks, nothing else is needed, just vacuum every other day. Usually people recommend, I think, raising the temp 1 degree per hour, is it? Good luck

Oh yes, need better oxygenation!

No, you would need to raise it to 86F and keep it there for 2 weeks to ensure the ich is completely gone. Add an airstone and do a water change/gravel vac every other day to pick up the ich spores.

Raising it to 86F is just temporary so your fish will be fine for those 2 weeks.

 

This thread may help.

ICH (ICK) Life Cycle and Natural Treatment

I wouldn't recommend raising the heat and medicating at the same time as it's too harsh on fish.

 

Oh yes, need better oxygenation!

I have an airstone and a bubbles wand, that would be enough right?

This thread may help.

ICH (ICK) Life Cycle and Natural Treatment

I wouldn't recommend raising the heat and medicating at the same time as it's too harsh on fish.

Yeah, I was going to do one or the other, just not sure which to use, I might use the heat method.
So do I just crack my heater up to 86(Will the heater heat the water slow enough)?

 

I raise the temp 1-2 degrees every hour until it reaches 86F.

 

Yeah, I was going to do one or the other, just not sure which to use, I might use the heat method.
So do I just crack my heater up to 86(Will the heater heat the water slow enough)?

I don't know, it would depend on your heater. I have a very crappy one, I needed to stick in another one to make appreciable progress. I would monitor the temp.

 

I raise the temp 1-2 degrees every hour until it reaches 86F.

Thanks for the advice, tank is now 80F and I plan to get it to 86F by the end of the night. I've read somewhere that I should add salt as well, is that necessary?

 

I did my heat treatment without salt, it worked.
Like I said, there are very many opinions here on ich treatment. Some people say doing heat and salt too stressful for the fish, some people do both. It may depend on the fish they are keeping; for comparison, I also have platies and guppies. I think don't add the salt yet and wait what el337 has to say

 

No salt needed at all. I got rid of ich with just heat alone.

 

No salt needed at all. I got rid of ich with just heat alone.

I accidentally put the heater on 89F before I slept and when I woke up the temperature was 89.8F, I immediately put iced bottles to bring the temperature down, the fish still seem ok. Did I do any damage?

 

I accidentally put the heater on 89F before I slept and when I woke up the temperature was 89.8F, I immediately put iced bottles to bring the temperature down, the fish still seem ok. Did I do any damage?

I don't think you did any major damage. How are the fish?

 

I don't think you did any major damage. How are the fish?

There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with them..

 

I think it's fine. I've read some people have raised it to 90F though I wouldn't try it for the full 2 weeks.

 

HI all, new to this forum and hobby, however did some good research (hopefully) before buying tank and fish.

I have 10 gallon tank for 3 weeks now and it seems to by cycled as all my parameters are perfect. did one week fish-less cycle and one additional week with a single platy. added 2 more platies at the end of 2nd week. pH 6.6, nitrate,nitrite and ammonia all zero. water temp fluctuates between 75-80.tank is planted but not heavily (3 small plants, 3 medium size plants) + drift wood. now I have 6 male platies in the tank (maybe overstocked for 10G?)but I don't see them having territorial fights; occasionally they chase each other for 10-15 min and stop. one of my platies for past two days just sits on the bottom of tank all day but does come out to eat and comes greet when I show my face, but after that goes back to the bottom and hides behind plants again. I don't see others bullying it. other platies seems fine, however I see 2 platies with small white dots which makes me believe its an ich/ick and currently treating with Petco brand Parasite Remedy for 3rd day now. the dots are not increasing but staying the same. the platy sitting on the bottom of tank has few dots on the fins so do other two. i
did de-chlorinated 15% water change every two weeks. but haven't done one since platy sitting on the bottom of tank yet.

I am running out of ideas why he is laying down and trying to save him
any help appreciated!

 

U need to do atleast 50% water change and id do it immediately. Then keep up with 50% every week. Theyre prob stressed from water conditions cuz it is overstocked and 15% isn't enough to replenish the water. When theyre stressed they get sick. Do u have a liquid test kit or do u get ur water test at the fish store? Its kinda weird u have no nitrates in the tank. Also, do u have carbon cartridges in the filter? If so, don't replace them like they tell u to, just rinse em in tank water cuz if u throw em out ull lose ur good bacteria. I hope u don't take what I'm saying the wrong way. Just trying to help and figure out the problem!

 

U need to do atleast 50% water change and id do it immediately. Then keep up with 50% every week. Theyre prob stressed from water conditions cuz it is overstocked and 15% isn't enough to replenish the water. When theyre stressed they get sick. Also, do u have a liquid test kit or do u get ur water test at the fish store? Its kinda weird u have no nitrates in the tank. Also, do u have carbon cartridges in the filter? If so, don't replace them like they tell u to, just rinse em in tank water cuz if u throw em out ull lose ur good bacteria. I hope u don't take what I'm saying the wrong way. Just trying to help and figure out the problem!

thanks for quick response.I was worried i'd kill beneficial bacteria if I did any bigger water change as I read on multiple forums. I do have API liquid test kid and test every 2-3 days and no changes. carbon cartridge is removed as suggested by ich treatment. I only replaced one filter before I added fish because the tank was brown from tannins from drift wood, but water conditions never changed. same ph level and zero of the rest.

I don't take anything wrong way lol, any help and advice is appreciated.

 

HI all, new to this forum and hobby, however did some good research (hopefully) before buying tank and fish.

I have 10 gallon tank for 3 weeks now and it seems to by cycled as all my parameters are perfect. did one week fish-less cycle and one additional week with a single platy. added 2 more platies at the end of 2nd week. pH 6.6, nitrate,nitrite and ammonia all zero. water temp fluctuates between 75-80.tank is planted but not heavily (3 small plants, 3 medium size plants) + drift wood. now I have 6 male platies in the tank (maybe overstocked for 10G?)but I don't see them having territorial fights; occasionally they chase each other for 10-15 min and stop. one of my platies for past two days just sits on the bottom of tank all day but does come out to eat and comes greet when I show my face, but after that goes back to the bottom and hides behind plants again. I don't see others bullying it. other platies seems fine, however I see 2 platies with small white dots which makes me believe its an ich/ick and currently treating with Petco brand Parasite Remedy for 3rd day now. the dots are not increasing but staying the same. the platy sitting on the bottom of tank has few dots on the fins so do other two. i
did de-chlorinated 15% water change every two weeks. but haven't done one since platy sitting on the bottom of tank yet.

I am running out of ideas why he is laying down and trying to save him
any help appreciated!

HI u said ammonia nitrites and nitrates are all 0. Ur tank is more than likely not cycled as it needs to have nitrates to be cycled as this is the end of the nitrogen cycle and u have only had it going for 3 weeks so maybe this is the cause

 

thanks for quick response.I was worried i'd kill beneficial bacteria if I did any bigger water change as I read on multiple forums. I do have API liquid test kid and test every 2-3 days and no changes. carbon cartridge is removed as suggested by ich treatment. I only replaced one filter before I added fish because the tank was brown from tannins from drift wood, but water conditions never changed. same ph level and zero of the rest.

I don't take anything wrong way lol, any help and advice is appreciated.

There is pretty much no bacteria in the water so changing out more will not do anythin to ur cycle if u still have one. U may have lost ur cycle if ur reading 0 nitrates. There are plenty of people here who got rid of cartridges all together and replaces with sponges or other things, cost less and they don't need replacing. Next time it says to take out carbon, I just cut a hole and dump it out. Keep an eye on ur ammonia and nitrite levels too just in case ur cycle crashed. But ya, id do atleast a 50% water change now and see how the platy does. Then maybe another in 2 days. Clean water and good food go along way. Do u have any pics of the white spots? I hope ur guy makes it!

 

There is pretty much no bacteria in the water so changing out more will not do anythin to ur cycle if u still have one. U may have lost ur cycle if ur reading 0 nitrates. There are plenty of people here who got rid of cartridges all together and replaces with sponges or other things, cost less and they don't need replacing. Next time it says to take out carbon, I just cut a hole and dump it out. Keep an eye on ur ammonia and nitrite levels too just in case ur cycle crashed. But ya, id do atleast a 50% water change now and see how the platy does. Then maybe another in 2 days. Clean water and good food go along way. Do u have any pics of the white spots? I hope ur guy makes it!

thanks I will do the water change. question: do you have to de-chlorinate the water BEFORE adding to the tank? or can I add after once its in the tank with fish? I never seem to find the correct answer, some ppl say it does not matter. asking because I do not have big enough bucket to do 50% water change one shot.
I do not have any pics as I am not home, but basically the platy laying down on bottom does not have problem breathing nor anything wrong with its body besides the few tiny white dots on fins.
aslo, should I put the carbon filter back in tank? I read if the parasite is here it will come back this way

HI u said ammonia nitrites and nitrates are all 0. Ur tank is more than likely not cycled as it needs to have nitrates to be cycled as this is the end of the nitrogen cycle and u have only had it going for 3 weeks so maybe this is the cause

would the no cycle kill fish fast? how can I restart the cycle again?

 

Yes definitely dechlorinate before adding to the tank. And make sure the temp is close to the same as poss. And the cartridge, is it still wet or are u talking about a new one? If u still have the old one and its not dried out, id cut a hole and dump the carbon out and put it back. U could do this for a new one too so u don't remove the medicine. as far as the cycle goes, ull have to do a fish in cycle. Ur ph isn't too high so the ammonia won't be as toxic but any ammonia and especially nitrites can be deadly. Test ur water DAILY and if either one of those get above 1ppm, do a water change. Have u tested ur tap water? Id test it for everythin to see where its at and get back to us.

Forgot to say, I always do fish in cycles and its totally doable if u keep up with water changes. Another thing that me and most people here use is Seachem Prime. Its a dechlorinator and also helps detox ammonia and nitrites so its a life saver in situations like these. A little goes along way as well. Best product out there as far as I'm concerned.

 

Welcome to the forum milankosaurus .

This is the right fourm to get pointed in the right direction.

So there are a couple of points to address, after reading your posts.

Everyone who has responded gave some solid advice.

First, as others have mentioned, your tank is not cycled. Using replaceable cartridges is the best way to lose your tank's cycle and spend $$ when you don't have to.

Here is a (LINK) to a thread on the forum, that gives a lot of examples with pics showing how to add DIY media to your filter. For $10 or less, you can boost its mechanical and biological filtration with a couple of easy mods. Plus you can discard using cartridges and instead place reusable media in the filter.

You mentioned 15% water changes. The beneficial bacteria colonizes in the substrate and in the filter's media. It is a different type of bacteria that multiplies in the water column, which causes tank water to look milky. That is the kind you don't want.

If you want to help jump start your cycle, add extra media of your choosing to the filter and an option is to dose the tank with a beneficial bacteria booster. I have used Tetra's Safe Start Plus with good results. Others choices available include Dr. Tim's One and Only, Seachem Stability and Fritz-Zyme's 7 and Turbo Start.

Large water changes does not affect the cycle and is the best way to remove excess ammonia and nitrates.

Eventually, invest in a 5-gallon bucket from Home Depot, Lowes, hardware store, etc. It will make water changes easy.

Draining 4 gallons from your 10 gallon tank allows you to perform a 40% change all at once.

I recommend using a gravel siphon vac to remove water at each water change. This will help keep your substrate clean and free of any build up of decaying organic matter, which contributes to ammonia and nitrate spikes.

I am not a betting man, but I'd wager that with 6 platy's in a 10 gallon and only 15% water changes every 2 weeks, the fish would be happier with more frequent and larger water changes.

As for your question about dechlorinator, both methods you mentioned works.

You can either treat each container of water individually you add to tank, or with the filter unplugged treat dose the tank with dechlorinator for the full 10 gallons then add you water.

For example, for our 5.5g and 10 gallon tanks, I add dechlorinator to my 5-gallon bucket then add that water to the tank.

On our 55 gallon and 75g, I add dechlorinator to the tank (dosing to treat entire tank volume) then I add water via a hose connected to a sink.

My 55 gallon and 75 gallon gets water changes in the 50%-75% depending on how much time Inhave and how long it's been since last change. I will siphon vac the sand substrate first into a bucket or 2, then drain the tank with a pump and hose that stretches out to my plants outside. Best free fertilizer you can use on plants!

As for your fish with Ich, that only gives more reason to do frequent water changes using a gravel siphon vac.

Ich can be treated with heat, raise tank temp to 84°-86°f.

Frequent water changes will remove the free floating ich.
ICH (ICK) Life Cycle and Natural Treatment | Freshwater Fish Disease and Fish Health Forum | 153206
Raising the temp speeds up the Ich life cycle and higher temps will kill it off.

I tried to look up your Ich media's ingredients list, but could not find it, so I can't comment on it.

I've used Kordon's Ich Attack and their Rid Ich Plus with good results.

Meds can only attack the Ich when they fall off the fish and and multiply in the water. When Ich is on the fish, meds are not effective against it.

Once all fish are symptom free of Ich, continue whatever treatment regimen for an additional 7-10 days. This ensures the free floating Ich tomites are killed off.

 

would the no cycle kill fish fast? how can I restart the cycle again?

Yes no cycle will definitely play on the fish health. I don't 5hink anyone has a bucket to do a 50% water change in one shot lol. I think u will prob have to do a fish cycle. When I do a water change I pour it in the bucket as the bucket is filling up This way I feel the conditioner is getting properly mixed with the water... but hey that's just me as we all have our own little ways ☺

 

Welcome to the forum milankosaurus .

This is the right fourm to get pointed in the right direction.

So there are a couple of points to address, after reading your posts.

Everyone who has responded gave some solid advice.

First, as others have mentioned, your tank is not cycled. Using replaceable cartridges is the best way to lose your tank's cycle and spend $$ when you don't have to.

Here is a (LINK) to a thread on the forum, that gives a lot of examples with pics showing how to add DIY media to your filter. For $10 or less, you can boost its mechanical and biological filtration with a couple of easy mods. Plus you can discard using cartridges and instead place reusable media in the filter.

thanks for all this great info! really appreciate it!

UPDATE: I just did 50% water change along with gravel vacuum as you all suggested and it worked like magic! all the fish seem to be a lot more activate as soon as I finished, even the one laying on the floor no longer does that! I actually used a 5 gallon bucket I forgot I had lol. I also returned the old filter back (it was still wet since I put it in the seal-able bag) but I cut a hole in and removed all the carbon from it. I rinsed it in the old water bucket. the old tank water stunk and was tea brown color.

as for the ich, the fish are swimming so fast I can't take a non blurry pic so you can see. half of fish have handful of dots on fins and body. I seen a few bouncing themselves off the plants and read that they do that because ich is irritating their scales. I will continue treating for ich and will get an adjustable heater tomorrow to raise the temp slowly to 86. the heater I have now is pre-set to 78 which is already a temp I have every day without heater needed so its no good. thanks all!

PS: below is the quick pic of my tank

 

The good thing is platys are generally hardy.

So I'm sure they will be able to make it as you treat for Ich, since you seem to have caught it early.

Good looking tank, especially with the plants.