Plants Melting In A Established Tank - Updated - Page 2

SeattleRoy

HI DCL415

Yes, the aragonite would be fine with multis.

Assuming you will not be going to CO2 in the future for that 40 long I would suggest the . Why?

It should give you about PAR@50 with your 16.875" tank assuming about 1.4" - 2.0" of substrate which is about the highest PAR I like to use without CO2. The light is fully adjustable for output light intensity and spectrum and programmable on your smartphone. It has a three (3) year warranty, two years longer than most on the market. It is waterproof per IP67 (which probably accounts for the better warranty) so you can run it on a tank without a glass cover. The warranty is backed by a well known, international corporation that has manufactured aquarium equipment for decades (Fluval / Hagen).

If you think you are going to go with CO2 in the future, or a deeper tank, I would suggest the with the same features but about 50% more light intensity.
 

DCL415

Thank you SeattleRoy Time to start saving.
Here in Canada the Aquasky is $169 plus shipping and tax and the Flourite is $25 + tax per bag and I will need 3 or 4 bags.
 

SeattleRoy

HI DCL415

If you don't mind a little work Safe-t-sorb is available in Canada; 40# for $17.99 at Tractor Supply Company (TSC)....there are several in Northern Ontario. I've used it in my 75 gallon high tech and my 10 gallon low tech with excellent results. It is calcined (heat hardened) montmorillonite clay with a very high cation exchange capacity (CEC). I screened mine though 1/8" hardware mesh to remove all of the 'fines' which resulted in a loss of about 40% of the material but the grain uniformity was great.

There are several threads on planted tank; here is a good one to start. What I like about it is that it lasts for about two years and is inexpensive enough I don't mind throwing it into the garden (good soil conditioner) and putting in new when I tear down a tank. It contains more minerals that Flourite.

My 10 gallon, low tech, low light (PAR@30) with Safe-t-sorb

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My 75 gallon high tech with Safe-t-sorb

fSK3h-K4U5BjR3RlN105Z33GhipCqgLo8fU7PiE8BTzYUqbRzlMxF0MfUtNMqihfFkiW9tsYLwZGUn6gibg=w765-h385-no.jpg
 

DCL415

SeattleRoy It looks awesome. I will go this weekend to TSC and check it out. Lots to read and investigate but it looks like the substrate and light is the main issue.
Again thanks for all your help.
Diego
 

DCL415

SeattleRoy I did more testing today before the weekly water change and the dGh is at 9.0 a significant change from the previous 6 but the dKh is fairly the same at 7.3. any issues with that change?
 

SeattleRoy

HI DCL415

Absolutely no issues at all. dKH measures carbonates. The GH Booster is likely made from calcium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, and potassium sulfate. You have increased the amount of calcium and magnesium in your water (that is why the dGH increased) however you did not add any carbonates so the dKH should not have changed. If calcium carbonate (powered limestone) was in the GH Booster the the dKH would have increased along with the dGH.
 

DCL415

SeattleRoy No,I did not add any boosters.
I was thinking of Flourish excel what's your take on it?
 

SeattleRoy

Opps, Sorry DCL415,

Here is likely where your increased dGH come from however I am surprised the dKH did not increase as well:
There is Aragonite mixed in with your substrate. Aragonite is naturally occurring crystal forms of calcium carbonate, CaCO₃ which will increase the hardness and increase the pH in your tank. It is typically used in tanks with African (Rift Lake) cichlids or saltwater tanks.....it is something that should not be used in a freshwater tank unless we have Rift Lake cichlids (btw there are basically no plants in the Rift Lakes). Hard, alkaline water makes it very difficult to grow plants which prefer medium to soft water and an neutral to acid pH.

That Aragonite should be pushing up the pH as well or possibly just keeping it from dropping.
 

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