Discussion in 'Aquarium Plants' started by Mer-max, Dec 19, 2012.

  1. Mer-maxWell Known MemberMember

    How do you plant Limnophila hippuroides?
  2. jetajockeyFishlore VIPMember

    Clipped end in the substrate like other stem type plants. Could bunch them or separate them a bit, separating them will get them more light.
  3. Mer-maxWell Known MemberMember

    So cut the bottom off a little and plant in the sand?

    Do you grow it personally?

    A google search didn't yield much in the planting part - I just wanted to be sure
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 19, 2012
  4. jetajockeyFishlore VIPMember

    I have not grown that particular species but have worked with other limnophila genus like l.aromatica. You don't have to cut anything on the plant before you plant it, I was just using that as reference so you don't plant it upside down.

    Stem plants are pretty straightforward and most can even be left floating if needed.
  5. Mer-maxWell Known MemberMember

    Lol I didn't realize you were joking. Thanks I appreciate it
  6. chevyguy8893Well Known MemberMember

    Don't bunch the stems too close or let it get shaded by any other plants. This plant is really sensitive to this and the leaves melt pretty quickly. I only know because this just happened with mine and it melted in a short period of time because of my neglect of trimming the fast growing stems next to it.
  7. Mer-maxWell Known MemberMember

  8. chevyguy8893Well Known MemberMember

    The setup it is grown in has a AquaticLife 48 watt dual T5HO (8 hour photoperiod), pressurized CO2 (30+ ppm), and EI dosing KNO3, K2SO4, KH2PO4, and plantex CSM+B. API leafzone is dosed for extra iron now, but only till I get chelated iron. I did have it growing, slower, under the same light without CO2 except excel, and the only ferts were leafzone and flourish comprehensive.
  9. Mer-maxWell Known MemberMember

    Oh, so it grew ok with t5ho, flourish comp?

    What size tank is it?

    I'm in a 55. My plants should ship next Wednesday and get here fri. My new t5ho ( replacing no) will be here this Friday. I normally dose flourish comp, API co2 booster, and flourish nitrogen - do you think they will grow well?
  10. chevyguy8893Well Known MemberMember

    Yeah, the growth was healthy, just slow, with flourish comp, leaf zone (helps with the red coloring), and I forgot I had seachem root tabs scattered about that it seemed to like. Seeing how it grows now, it really likes the addition of CO2. It is in a 20 gallon tank.

    It should grow fine in that tank with a dual T5HO, I think that is what you were considering, and the ferts you have. A source of phosphorus and iron would help though, and that could be through liquid or dry ferts if you chose to add it. For some reason mine doesn't seem to show deficiencies in any form other than melting leaves, so that may be something to watch for.

    This link may help you out some.
  11. Mer-maxWell Known MemberMember

    Thanks for the link. I believe I have some leaf zone around here somewhere. Does flourish make a phosphate? I'm afraid of adding specific ferts other than nitrate because I don't have a way to measure them, nor a basis of what is normal. . .

    Also - by melting leaves do you mean old ones dying out?
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 19, 2012
  12. chevyguy8893Well Known MemberMember

    Yep, phosphate addition comes from flourish phosphorus. The only thing I actually test is nitrates in my tank, the rest is added without knowing the levels at the end of the week. Some are ok with doing it that way, while others won't, it's a preference. I just watch to see how the plants do over a couple weeks after changing a dosing amount. Any excess is removed with a 50% water change.

    Anyway, by melting they are dying, but much faster than something like a pinhole from a deficiency. The leaf still exists, but its structure is like a light brown mush.

    CVS, and possible Walgreens, has some nice, cheap, syringes that make dosing liquid ferts much easier, and it can help prevent contamination of the bottle. Here's a nice nutrient calculator that can help give you an idea for dosing ferts.
  13. Mer-maxWell Known MemberMember

    Awesome! I'm glad I ran into you! Do you know of a site that shows the signs of distress and what they mean?

    I run into hole and such in plants but have snails somewhere if the puffer hasn't gotten them or did them himself but he is so well fed of shrimp I doubt it's him. Would I be ok with a cap of everything? Nitrate,iron ,potassium,phosphate, and it all work out? Will they look bad from too much of anything?
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 19, 2012
  14. chevyguy8893Well Known MemberMember

    I do, keep in mind a few of the deficiencies can mean more than one thing, so sometimes diagnosing deficiencies isn't the easiest thing to do (i.e. nitrate and CO2 deficiencies look very similar). This chart in the link is a decent start to figuring out what's going on.

    It is a good idea to cover the needs of the plants and not limit the nutrients available, that is when deficiencies and algae comes in. For example, the basis of EI dosing is to purposely overdose the amount of fertilizers in the water to try and keep the nutrients consistent. At the end of the week the large water change resets the levels. I cannot remember where I saw it, but to get to a point of too much of something is a pretty high amount. If you are good about your water changes, and the plants are doing well, there shouldn't be a problem. The chart covers a few of the signs of excess nutrients.

    I will recommend getting a liquid test kit to measure GH and KH if you don't already have one. If the plants do not get enough CO2 they do have the ability to break the carbonate bonds (KH) to get a source of CO2. If KH gets too low because of this there is greater possibility of pH swings. As for GH, that will be a source of calcium, magnesium, and possibly other minerals for the plants that may not be available from the added ferts.

    If you are going to be buying the rest of the ferts you can save a lot of money by switching to dry ferts. For me, two 250 ml bottles of seachem nitrogen, or something else, costs the same as the dry ferts that cover everything and last much longer. Just a thought :).
  15. Mer-maxWell Known MemberMember

    Yes, I plan on dry ferts - but getting into new stuff is scary, lol. Just haven't taken the plunge. If there was a dummy guide - buy this, add this much - I would be better off lol
  16. jetajockeyFishlore VIPMember

    Fleet enema is an alternate source for po4 although you may likely be fine on po4 if you are regularly feeding a pretty full stock. I agree dry ferts are way cheaper than the liquid stuff.
  17. Mer-maxWell Known MemberMember

    ( also - what kinna chevy do you have? I'm in college for diesel technology but all things loud and proud are my hobby )

    - 03 chevy av . . . Only aftermarket stuff is dual turn downs and k&n intake
  18. chevyguy8893Well Known MemberMember

    Haha, anything with an engine is my original passion. Right now I have an 09 malibu LTZ (4 cyl. sadly) with random things done to it, and before that was an 04 impala SS. I also worked as a chevrolet mechanic for roughly 4 years after school. Diesels are just awesome, and it is a good field to go into. If I had a use for a diesel I would have one lol. I'm guess av is astro van, but I guess it would be short for something else.

    Oh, don't be afraid of switching to dry ferts, it is really easy to dose. There are a lot of articles on the internet that make it a lot easier to understand. Now that I have done it, I wish I would have switched a lot sooner.
  19. Mer-maxWell Known MemberMember

    Cool thanks. Btw way av = avalanche. I laughed at the van part. I dunno if they make those anymore