75 Gallon Tank Planted freshwater community

I am in the process of restocking my 75 gallon freshwater, which began life in December 2012. It got a rehab in 2015, when I changed out the substrate.
Data:
Substrate: tahitian moon sand
Filters: Eheim 2217 and Fluval 406 canisters
Temp: The 200W heater keeps it around 74 degrees F
Decor: two pieces of wood and a large rock, plus some smaller inert rocks to anchor the anubias nana
Lighting: I currently have one LED strip and to be truthful, I preferred my T5 HO lights. I just got tired of changing the bulbs! My photo period is currently about 8 hours, recently increased from 6.
Plants: The only plant I can grow well is anubias nana. I also have cryptocorine spiralis hanging out, 2 amazon swords, and 2 java ferns. My trouble is, nothing wants to grow too tall. I have had water sprite floating in there just to get some green at the top of the tank. It died back though, so it's currently in the quarantine/grow out tank. I have always wondered if I do not have strong enough light...although I have also had algae problems. I recently tested for silicates, and the results were 6 mg/L. Not sure if that's good, bad, or indifferent for a tank with a sand substrate.

Current inhabitants:
2 x serpae tetras
1 x black skirt tetra
1 x kuhli loach
lots of MTS

Ultimate stocking plan:
~8 black skirts
~8 serpaes
~10 lemon tetras (I've never kept these before)
~5 kuhli loaches
?? amano shrimp

 

I think getting the tetras a larger school is a great idea! If you want shrimp then get rid of the Khuli Loaches. Amanos get pretty big so I'm not sure, but Khuli Loaches are usually not compatible with shrimp. I know this is really generic, but why not get a ton of tetra species. You could up the temperature a bit and add angelfish, or you could get corydoras Brochis. The giants of the Corydoras family. I don't know how they would work with Khuli loaches however. My final suggestion would be a Pleco for a clean up crew. Large groups of tetras can calm down big fish like Angels.

 

What kind of LED light strip do you have? Modern LED aquarium lights are pretty good but the old LED light strips were nothing more than decoration.

Seems like you just need some faster growing plants. All the ones you have are slow growing, except for amazon swords but they need iron to flourish

 

For that size tank you could probably double your proposed numbers of tetras.

 

I think getting the tetras a larger school is a great idea! If you want shrimp then get rid of the Khuli Loaches. Amanos get pretty big so I'm not sure, but Khuli Loaches are usually not compatible with shrimp. I know this is really generic, but why not get a ton of tetra species. You could up the temperature a bit and add angelfish, or you could get corydoras Brochis. The giants of the Corydoras family. I don't know how they would work with Khuli loaches however. My final suggestion would be a Pleco for a clean up crew. Large groups of tetras can calm down big fish like Angels.

I've tried Brochis before...in fact, I changed the substrate to moon sand just for them. I adore them! Unfortunately, they did not last. I will check out loaches vs. shrimp; thanks. I'm not sure the tank is deep enough for angels. But that is an interesting idea. They are so beautiful. I'm aiming to keep "easy" fish.

For that size tank you could probably double your proposed numbers of tetras.

Yes, I tend to understock. I don't know why. Maybe because I can't achieve that "heavily planted" look I really want!

What kind of LED light strip do you have? Modern LED aquarium lights are pretty good but the old LED light strips were nothing more than decoration.

Seems like you just need some faster growing plants. All the ones you have are slow growing, except for amazon swords but they need iron to flourish

I had to look it up. I bought it September 2019 when my Marineland died. It's a Beamswork DA 6500K 0.50W Series LED.

• Lumen: 5200
• LEDs: 120x 0.50 watt
• Config: 104x 6500K, 16x Actinic

Maybe I need two? I have tried faster-growing plants, and they just seem to die off.

 

If you want the heavily planted look you're going to have to dive into the world of co2. Co2 and Tropica Ferts is the way to go in my opinion. If what you want to achieve is what I'm thinking you should watch the Green Aqua Channel on Youtube. In the aquarium hobby they are as high end as you can get. If you want low tech plants then your fine as is.

 

If you want the heavily planted look you're going to have to dive into the world of co2. Co2 and Tropica Ferts is the way to go in my opinion.

Not necessarily. I use no Co2 in my 20g, and it has incredible plant growth. You just need low tech plants. You can get a pretty awesome val or crypt forest without Co2.

 

If you want the heavily planted look you're going to have to dive into the world of co2. Co2 and Tropica Ferts is the way to go in my opinion. If what you want to achieve is what I'm thinking you should watch the Green Aqua Channel on Youtube. In the aquarium hobby they are as high end as you can get. If you want low tech plants then your fine as is.

Not necessarily. I use no Co2 in my 20g, and it has incredible plant growth. You just need low tech plants. You can get a pretty awesome val or crypt forest without Co2.

I will agree with Kribensis27. It is very possible to have a heavily planted tank without adding CO2. My 40 gallon breeder looked like a wilderness, with very little open swimming space, until I recently thinned the plants. All it takes is proper plant selection, light, and nutrients.

 

I bought this fixture because it was a reasonable price and it did NOT have its own timer. I like to have access to the light timer, and whenever there was a loss in power, however brief, I would lose my setting (this happened with the Marineland, which had its own timer). Since I can't just pop the heavy cover off to fix it, I was getting annoyed. I solved the problem BTW by adding a universal power supply under the tank! But I did not mourn the Marineland when it died.

 

So I've decided not to add amano shrimp to the 75 gallon, which still has a loach in it. Unfortunately, I am already quarantining 5 shrimp! As I have two established tanks--and I do not want a shrimp-only tank--I am going to swap them and let the kuhli live out its life in the 10 gallon. S/he is over 4 years old and the last of the 9 I had. I'm not entirely happy with this solution, as I have read they can live 14 years.

I realize a 10 gallon is not ideal for this species, but I could eventually add 4 more loaches so s/he is not alone AND sneak in the male betta splendans I was hoping for. I think my husband would go along with this.

It just means I lose my quarantine tank. My only other tank is a 2 gallon.

I could fit a 5 gallon on my stand. More research to be done...

 

I will agree with Kribensis27. It is very possible to have a heavily planted tank without adding CO2. My 40 gallon breeder looked like a wilderness, with very little open swimming space, until I recently thinned the plants. All it takes is proper plant selection, light, and nutrients.

I've thought about CO2, but I want to try the light/ferts approach first. And not grow new algae varieties in the process. Somehow, I've never hit on the right combination of plants-lights-nutrients.

 

Yesterday, we had the first spotting of all 5 amano shrimp in the QT tank! I was beginning to doubt whether I'd put 5 in there. I'm trying to talk my son into a tank for his room (he has a interest in fish, and is the only one who will accompany me to the fish store!). If he wants to set up another tank, my husband will agree (insert evil laugh here). Then we could keep the kuhli loach (and some new additions) in there.

 

Today I cleaned the Eheim. I love this filter EXCEPT the need to dig out the bio balls (or whatever they're called) with my hands every time. So today I did what I should have done years ago and put all the bio media in mesh bags. GENIUS. Now the next time I clean it, it will be much easier.

This fact, BTW, is why I bought the Fluval 406 for my second filter rather than another Eheim. The Fluval has these cool trays for the bio media which makes them a snap to remove and clean. I don't like the pump as much because it's noisy and sucks air. One thing I will say for Hagen is their customer service is excellent: while the pump was still under warranty, they switched out every part to try and solve the "sucks air" issue. Unfortunately, while I essentially ended up with a new pump the issue was never resolved. It's not a super huge deal so I kept the pump, but I would not recommend.

So, what's under the tank? I never see anyone post pictures of this part of the set up, and I find it interesting, so here are some pics of mine. I added towel racks and a mesh frame to attach hooks and bins (right side). The bins are really for the chemicals, but right now they have junk in them! In addition to the two canisters there is a UPS (yes, it should probably NOT be under the tank. But it is). Because I'm a mess when I clean the filters, they both sit in buckets.

 

Today I cleaned the Eheim. I love this filter EXCEPT the need to dig out the bio balls (or whatever they're called) with my hands every time. So today I did what I should have done years ago and put all the bio media in mesh bags. GENIUS. Now the next time I clean it, it will be much easier.

This fact, BTW, is why I bought the Fluval 406 for my second filter rather than another Eheim. The Fluval has these cool trays for the bio media which makes them a snap to remove and clean. I don't like the pump as much because it's noisy and sucks air. One thing I will say for Hagen is their customer service is excellent: while the pump was still under warranty, they switched out every part to try and solve the "sucks air" issue. Unfortunately, while I essentially ended up with a new pump the issue was never resolved. It's not a super huge deal so I kept the pump, but I would not recommend.

So, what's under the tank? I never see anyone post pictures of this part of the set up, and I find it interesting, so here are some pics of mine. I added towel racks and a mesh frame to attach hooks and bins (right side). The bins are really for the chemicals, but right now they have junk in them! In addition to the two canisters there is a UPS (yes, it should probably NOT be under the tank. But it is). Because I'm a mess when I clean the filters, they both sit in buckets.

wow very tidy

 

You can achieve your jungle with low demanding plants like val, anubias, crypt, fern, moss, etcs. There are stem plants that are low demanding too like hygrophila, bacopa, guppy grass, pennywort, etc. It will take awhile to become a jungle.

 

Nice tank and great work!! 75 is big for so few tetras. Is that algae on the back glass?

Lighting s needed for plant growth. Co2 can wait. Your mts are also great for plant growth. Beams works are good lights but that tank is 24” deep. So you need for the light to get to the bottom. A few good lights are the vivagrow 24/7 around $50 shipped on eBay the hygger 957 under $100. And the finnex HLC for just over $100. All can be found on eBay or Amazon. All are programmable. So you can set how much light you want for how long. Next you’ll need some ferts. Many options thrive c and the flourish line of ferts are commonly used.
How often do you change water? And how much?

 

You can achieve your jungle with low demanding plants like val, anubias, crypt, fern, moss, etcs. There are stem plants that are low demanding too like hygrophila, bacopa, guppy grass, pennywort, etc. It will take awhile to become a jungle.

Hello, my cryptocorine spiralis has never grown taller than about 11 inches. I love the wavy look though and it has survived. I've tried (and killed) vals, hygrophila corymbosa (actually I believe there is one, stunted guy left), and bacopa. Even my 2 java ferns, while not dying, have not grown in the year they have been in there. I do think I will try pennywort again, because that did well for a while.

Granted I'm not real consistent with adding ferts (just root tabs) so this may be my issue.

Nice tank and great work!! 75 is big for so few tetras. Is that algae on the back glass?

Lighting s needed for plant growth. Co2 can wait. Your mts are also great for plant growth. Beams works are good lights but that tank is 24” deep. So you need for the light to get to the bottom. A few good lights are the vivagrow 24/7 around $50 shipped on eBay the hygger 957 under $100. And the finnex HLC for just over $100. All can be found on eBay or Amazon. All are programmable. So you can set how much light you want for how long. Next you’ll need some ferts. Many options thrive c and the flourish line of ferts are commonly used.
How often do you change water? And how much?

Thanks and oh yes, I grow GREAT algae. Tank is actually 18" deep but yes, I think the light is inadequate. So was the Marineland before it. I bought the light I did because it did not have its own timer but I will look into the ones you suggested. I want to have the light plugged into a timer so I can adjust without my husband taking off the heavy lid.

Water change every 1-2 weeks, and at least 50% each time. I realize I should change the water every week, but at the moment the tank has 4 fish in it and I get a wee lazy. I'm working to restock it. 2020 was not the year to visit aquarium shops, alas.

How will the MTS help plant growth? I can grow those well, too!

So now I'm rethinking my ultimate stocking goal (a little). The more I read about the amano shrimp the more I worry that the black skirts or serpae will eat them too, although there are some of each quarantining right now and all is well. But then, the quarantining tetras are small. The one black skirt in my 75 gal is about 4 years old and full-size. So I will start with the 5 amanos and see how it goes. If they make it I'll add to their number.

New plan:
8 black skirt tetras
8 serpae tetras
10 lemon tetras (I can only quarantine that many at a time)
20 glowlight tetras (apparently, I can QT 20 at a time)
5 amano shrimp (more to be added if the plants grow and the tetras leave them alone)

Now I would still LOVE cory cats but IMHO they just starve to death in a tetra tank. I've seen the tetras carry sinking pellets around in their greedy mouths--which are too small for pellets--whilst being chased by other tetras. Eventually the gang breaks up the pellets and eats them. They seem to do this whether the light is on or off. They are little, greedy piggies and I love them. However, I also love cories so I may end up using the 10 Gal QT for some of them and a betta.

My problem being that I always need a QT. Dilemmas.

 

Is this your light?
https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-Ti...keywords=beamswork&qid=1609638580&sr=8-3&th=1

I have a BeamsWork EA 120 .50W 48" LED Aquarium Light White Blue on my 55g. It is not an amazing light or anything, but my anubias and crypt are slowly growing. I do think mine is a bit weak. It is about the same amount of light as 1 54W HO T5.

My friend has a Beamswork FSPEC on his 90 gallon and can grow low light plant just fine. I personally would try two Beamswork on the 75g.

 

Thanks for your thoughts. My light is similar:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P96UA...olid=20UI6AQNNJOX3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Yes, I could add another; that would be the most economical option. I do like that it works on an external timer. For me, the aquarium light should be on or off. The Marineland I had before had a way to set the blue and white lights separately so they overlapped which was fussy to me. And every time the power cut out, the program I set was interrupted and the light went back to default, 12 hours on, with the time set at 3PM. This was really annoying and is why I bought a light that is just on or off. It is on a timer which I can reach.

I just read about the other lights recommended above, and they have more features than I need. But maybe the addition of red and green lights is what I need--?

 

I brought some T5 plant bulbs in the past, and it had a reddish tint to it. I usually buy just daylight bulb because I like the natural look on it. I can see where a full spectrum led light would be better for plant than just white and blue.

 

The lights I listed do grow plants. And many different types. These lights also run on much less electric. LEDs are very cheap to run. Much less than t5s. Yes the green/red/blue grows plants better. The hygger comes with a built in timer the other 2 use remotes. So if you leave the dome outside the hood there’s no lifting to change settings. These 2 lights run all day like a regular day. My plants are growing great.

As to the algae. The light your using is on to long. Break it into 3 times. On for 4hrs off for 3hrs than on for 4 again. Algae doesn’t have enough time to grow but plants do. Scrape off the algae on the back before you do this. A nice power head/filter for this is the odyssey 250 bought on eBay shipped for about $20. Instead of using the sponges it comes with fill the chambers with poly fill. Shut off the canisters scrape off the algae turn on the 250 for about an hour and that should pick up most of the algae. Turn your filters back on.

Next your filter may not be running as good as they used to. 4 fish in a 75 you shouldn’t get that much algae. The filters should be picking it out of the water. But maybe thats

As a 75 g your tank is 48”x15”x24”? Should be 24” deep unless it’s longer than 48”.

Your stocking looks good and Cory’s always find food . Mts live in the substrate and eat anything in it. Keeping it clean and always moving it. This allows for good root growth. I’ve got they in all tanks but the one with clown loaches. Loaches eat snails and shrimp. Also what your adding will be fine with shrimp.

 

The tank is 21 inches high - either you need to focus on low light plants, go with a stronger light or have patient and give your plants a lot of time to grow. They will grow just slowly. As others said low light plants that tend to do ok include amazon swords, anubias, java fern and crypts. I have both low tech and high tech tanks with 'weak' lights (fluval 3.0) and super strong lights so i've begun to see the difference. Other than reddish crypts and swords i avoid red plants unless the tank is high-tech. I have identical plants in low tech and high tech tank and can see the difference. In my low tech tank my melon swords are around 6 inches high after 14 months; in my high-tech tank it is close to 20 inches high. To be honest I prefer this sword at 6 inches so don't think that hi-tech is the best of all situations. Also temp will make a difference dependent on the plant. So pick the appropriate plant for your environment.
-
My 120 has fluval 3.0 but is high-tech. The fluval does not do a great job lighting the bottom (I have 2) but plants that manage to get off the ground do well - low growing grasses have a lot of problems because they really need stronger lights. I have some microswords down there that after 18 months have just managed to spread a couple of times - it grows just slowly. The same plant in my 40B (which has a light that is 2.5x brighter than the fluval 3.0 and is 8 inches shorter) the plants is taking over the bottom (for better or worse).

I bought this fixture because it was a reasonable price and it did NOT have its own timer. I like to have access to the light timer, and whenever there was a loss in power, however brief, I would lose my setting (this happened with the Marineland, which had its own timer). Since I can't just pop the heavy cover off to fix it, I was getting annoyed. I solved the problem BTW by adding a universal power supply under the tank! But I did not mourn the Marineland when it died.

standard dimension for a 75 is 48x18x21. Sort of like an oversized 40B.

As a 75 g your tank is 48”x15”x24”? Should be 24” deep unless it’s longer than 48”.

 

The lights I listed do grow plants. And many different types. These lights also run on much less electric. LEDs are very cheap to run. Much less than t5s. Yes the green/red/blue grows plants better. The hygger comes with a built in timer the other 2 use remotes. So if you leave the dome outside the hood there’s no lifting to change settings. These 2 lights run all day like a regular day. My plants are growing great.

As to the algae. The light your using is on to long. Break it into 3 times. On for 4hrs off for 3hrs than on for 4 again. Algae doesn’t have enough time to grow but plants do. Scrape off the algae on the back before you do this. A nice power head/filter for this is the odyssey 250 bought on eBay shipped for about $20. Instead of using the sponges it comes with fill the chambers with poly fill. Shut off the canisters scrape off the algae turn on the 250 for about an hour and that should pick up most of the algae. Turn your filters back on.

Next your filter may not be running as good as they used to. 4 fish in a 75 you shouldn’t get that much algae. The filters should be picking it out of the water. But maybe thats

As a 75 g your tank is 48”x15”x24”? Should be 24” deep unless it’s longer than 48”.

Your stocking looks good and Cory’s always find food . Mts live in the substrate and eat anything in it. Keeping it clean and always moving it. This allows for good root growth. I’ve got they in all tanks but the one with clown loaches. Loaches eat snails and shrimp. Also what your adding will be fine with shrimp.

Thank you for the ideas. Is this what you are referring to?
https://www.amazon.com/Odyssea-Inte...sea+250+aquarium+filter&qid=1609704101&sr=8-2
That is an interesting thought, to run a filter just for algae removal. I will work on scraping that off, I used to have otocinclus and wanted them to have something to eat. And as I mentioned, I'm restocking it (including plants).
Yes, the tank is actually 48"L x 18.5"W x 21.5" deep. According to its label. The part I see is 18"!
Which light in particular do you have? Any with the remotes? Are they easy to use?

The tank is 21 inches high - either you need to focus on low light plants, go with a stronger light or have patient and give your plants a lot of time to grow. They will grow just slowly. As others said low light plants that tend to do ok include amazon swords, anubias, java fern and crypts. I have both low tech and high tech tanks with 'weak' lights (fluval 3.0) and super strong lights so i've begun to see the difference. Other than reddish crypts and swords i avoid red plants unless the tank is high-tech. I have identical plants in low tech and high tech tank and can see the difference. In my low tech tank my melon swords are around 6 inches high after 14 months; in my high-tech tank it is close to 20 inches high. To be honest I prefer this sword at 6 inches so don't think that hi-tech is the best of all situations. Also temp will make a difference dependent on the plant. So pick the appropriate plant for your environment.
-
My 120 has fluval 3.0 but is high-tech. The fluval does not do a great job lighting the bottom (I have 2) but plants that manage to get off the ground do well - low growing grasses have a lot of problems because they really need stronger lights. I have some microswords down there that after 18 months have just managed to spread a couple of times - it grows just slowly. The same plant in my 40B (which has a light that is 2.5x brighter than the fluval 3.0 and is 8 inches shorter) the plants is taking over the bottom (for better or worse).



standard dimension for a 75 is 48x18x21. Sort of like an oversized 40B.

By "high tech" you mean with CO2?
I think I will try a brighter light. It isn't that I want fussy plants, I just want them to get taller (if they are meant to get taller). So there is some greenery at the mid and top of the tank.
So perhaps a change in the light, switching up the photo period, and really getting ahead of the algae will eventually work. If I had to do it again, I'd get a shallower tank.

 

Yes that’s the filter. I mean just for when you scrap off that algae now. That filter with floss in it will pick up that algae quickly. When done put the sponges in and you’ve got an extra filter if needed.

 

Thank you for the ideas. Is this what you are referring to?
https://www.amazon.com/Odyssea-Inte...sea+250+aquarium+filter&qid=1609704101&sr=8-2
That is an interesting thought, to run a filter just for algae removal. I will work on scraping that off, I used to have otocinclus and wanted them to have something to eat. And as I mentioned, I'm restocking it (including plants).
Yes, the tank is actually 48"L x 18.5"W x 21.5" deep. According to its label. The part I see is 18"!
Which light in particular do you have? Any with the remotes? Are they easy to use?

By "high tech" you mean with CO2?
I think I will try a brighter light. It isn't that I want fussy plants, I just want them to get taller (if they are meant to get taller). So there is some greenery at the mid and top of the tank.
So perhaps a change in the light, switching up the photo period, and really getting ahead of the algae will eventually work. If I had to do it again, I'd get a shallower tank.

Your tank is not that deep. 21 tall is pretty normal unless you get a breeder or lowboy tank. Like many mention, you want to up your light a bit more. If money is an issue, you can probably find a cheap light on facebook marketplace. I know of people who used the LED shop light to grow plant. Those usually run pretty cheap.

 

I have all of those lights. The best deal is the vivagrow 24/7 usually found on eBay. It has an easily used remote. Next is the HLC by finnex. Also works with a remote. Shop lights will work but won’t look as good. Most who buy shop lights next buy aquarium lights.

 

Yes that’s the filter. I mean just for when you scrap off that algae now. That filter with floss in it will pick up that algae quickly. When done put the sponges in and you’ve got an extra filter if needed.

Thanks...so I guess I have to decide, what are the odds this will suck up the loach while it's running for that hour?!? clearly it would not work as intended with a prefilter sponge on it.

I have all of those lights. The best deal is the vivagrow 24/7 usually found on eBay. It has an easily used remote. Next is the HLC by finnex. Also works with a remote. Shop lights will work but won’t look as good. Most who buy shop lights next buy aquarium lights.

Next question...with the vivagrow (or any of the others) are you able to program the on-again, off-again time period you suggested earlier? I have read about that type of photo period before and I want to try it. So I'm thinking, add another light to the tank and plug them both into my timer so they are on 4 hours, off 3, on 4...so I need one you can have come on and off without hassle.

Your tank is not that deep. 21 tall is pretty normal unless you get a breeder or lowboy tank. Like many mention, you want to up your light a bit more. If money is an issue, you can probably find a cheap light on facebook marketplace. I know of people who used the LED shop light to grow plant. Those usually run pretty cheap.

I know the tank is not the deepest out there. I've just always felt whatever light I put on the tank, it doesn't encourage tall growth (but it does encourage algae). Nothing grows fast enough to out-complete the algae. I think the original T5 HO did the best job but even that did not accomplish what I envisioned.

So I have to decide what I want to spend to experiment with a second light...

 

I have 5 of these filters. Some for about 2yrs never had a fish stuck to it. Only a very weak fish would get stuck to it. Loaches are to quick to get caught. You will see your loaches eating off of it. Cherry shrimp are always on mine. This filter comes with 2 prefilter sponges.

 

I have 5 of these filters. Some for about 2yrs never had a fish stuck to it. Only a very weak fish would get stuck to it. Loaches are to quick to get caught. You will see your loaches eating off of it. Cherry shrimp are always on mine. This filter comes with 2 prefilter sponges.

Oh, thanks! Do you use the prefilter sponges to suck out the algae as you described?

 

No for that I would replace the sponge and fill wish floss/polyfill. This is denser and will grab all the scraped off algae. Probably take about an hour. This way it’s like a water polisher. Should clean up anything floating in the water. When the water is clear replace the floss with the sponges it came with. These sponges will continue to pull everything out of the water and start cycling it. It’s now another filter in your tank. Now if you don’t need or want another filter just take it out let it dry and store it. Use it when your water needs to be polished.

 

So I tried this "polishing" technique and was very excited to see things being sucked into the filter. I will definitely use this method on a regular basis to get all the junk sucked out after I scrape the glass. Then I can focus on the piles of gunk on the bottom as I change the water. In future I will put a cup around the filter when I remove it, as some of the gunk floated back out.

I am also pleased with the Finnex light I bought. I really did not think I would have much need for the 24/7 cycle, but I am enjoying it! I see the loach more, and the serpae look far more red under the red LEDs. It's only been on the tank a few days so we shall see if it causes an algae problem.

Today I put the remaining QT-ers in to the 75. This brings the grand total of fish in the 75 to: 4 black skirts, 4 serpae, and 1 kuhli loach. This is the last time I QT different species together. I will work on one school at a time. We've decided to address the serpaes next. And I'm getting more plants.

So the plan: get serpaes up to 6-8; get black skirts up to 6-8; decide the future of the kuhli (will he get more tank mates, or be rehoused?); work on lemon tetras (I want 10-12); work on glow light tetras (I want 20). This will take many weeks.

 

Update...we have successfully increased the black skirt (9) and serpae tetra (10) schools. In addition, I bought some Aponogetan bulbs and am very pleased with the height on their leaves. Finally, something that is filling the back of my tank! Currently there are 12 glow light tetras in the quarantine tank. Next trip will be 12 more (a little cheaper if you buy 12), and then I'll work on the lemon tetras.

Here are some pictures, although my camera is not great and there is glare on the tank. The first picture is of the quarantine tank.

 

That looks like a boivinianus - lovely plant. Mine hasn't gone dormant in 19 months and stays just below 18 inches.

 

Yes, I have two boivinianus and one ulvaceus. I hope they do not go dormant any time soon!

 

I have some bulbs as well, they haven't sprouted for weeks now (90% sure that are not upside down) how long did yours take? nice selection of plants btw

 

My experience has been that the ulvaceus will go dormant after 3 to 6 months - i had one in my 120 that was huge but now it has gone to sleep. The ones in the 29 went to sleep but have re-awoken.

Yes, I have two boivinianus and one ulvaceus. I hope they do not go dormant any time soon!

 

I have some bulbs as well, they haven't sprouted for weeks now (90% sure that are not upside down) how long did yours take? nice selection of plants btw

Thanks! These bulbs came from the LFS with leaves and just took off after I planted them. I could almost see them grow! I have limited experience with bulbs. In my 10 gal QT I have 3 Nymphaea rubra and I think maybe 2 are dormant. I don't know much about them. I just know I struggle to get anything to grow tall in this tank. So the fact that those leave are almost floating on the surface makes me happy.
My best plant to grow is anubias nana. I can't even get java fern to take off.

 

heh heh... my bulbs were totally upside down lol. one has sprouted now.

I can't even get java fern to take off.

I had some nice java ferns but my mbunas had no mercy.

 

heh heh... my bulbs were totally upside down lol. one has sprouted now.

Yes that would be an easy mistake to make; mine had leaves so it was pretty fool-proof. I've added a second light, so I've noticed some other stuff (cryptocorine spiralis) getting taller. The ulvaceus shot up multiple stalks, and now it's flowering.
I was going to upload a picture of the QT tank, but the file is too big. Here is one of the amano shrimp now living in the QT until I rehouse the Kuhli who lives in the 75. This kuhli outlived it's school, but I don't want to add more to this tank.

 

imagine catching a kuli loach out of a 75 gallon. that will take some mental prep