Planted 10g Nutrient Deficiency?

I thought it's been my lighting but some plants are dying off and some leaves on specific plants are withering, only to come back and wither again. It seems like a nutrient deficiency for sure by the looks of my plants.

Currently my tank is housing one male betta and two amano shrimp.

Regular 10G, BDBS substrate with Osmocote root tabs, regular Flourish dosed 2x a week 1mL, Flourish Excel (Metricide 14) dosed daily 0.25mL daily (to "adapt" my new vallisneria to reduce melt) but am going to bump up the dose to 0.5mL a day. My lighting is an off brand 72 LED fixture with 60 white, 12 blue. On for 10 hours a day.

My plants in my tank as of now are:

Amazon sword,
Java fern,
Java moss,
Anacharis,
Bacopa caroliniana,
Staurogyne repens,
Amazon ozelot (echinodorus ozelot),
Anubias sp.,
Vallisneria asiatica,
Moss ball.

Plant growth has been mediocre the past few months except for the java fern which I'm happy with, it's growing quite well despite being a "slow grower" and being delivered to me in a bad state.

Here are some pictures as of tonight (just did a 25% WC):

 

Flourish isn't great with macros (NPK), but this is looking like poor lighting to me more then the deficiencies.
Better all in one ferts for when you run out of flourish are thrive by nilo CJ and ultum nature systems plant food. If you have super high nitrates (unlikely since it's a betta only) easy green by aquarium co op is another option (lower NPK then first mentioned, but higher then flourish)

 

Flourish isn't great with macros (NPK), but this is looking like poor lighting to me more then the deficiencies.
Better all in one ferts for when you run out of flourish are thrive by nilo CJ and ultum nature systems plant food. If you have super high nitrates (unlikely since it's a betta only) easy green by aquarium co op is another option (lower NPK then first mentioned, but higher then flourish)

It is odd how my Amazon Sword grew great and exploded in growth when I first got it, but now with this light (which is frankly more powerful than the light I started with) is barely growing it.

This is the LED I have now.



The Chihiros A501 single color is I'm assuming white? Don't other colors such as red give it a full color spectrum aka better growth?

 

Try taking a break in the lighting during the day. Keep the lights on for 4 hours, off for 4 hours, back on for 3 hours. The siesta in the middle helps with growth. (Something about Co2 production, not sure of the exact reasoning)

I agree that it looks like a lighting deficiency. My plants looked just like that. I just upgraded my lighting last week. Noticed a difference in just a week. Less melt, and new growth.

I use flourish root tabs, ultum all in 1 plant food, and replenish since I have a low gh. I also keep my nitrates between 20-40ppm. To help with nutrition. So you may need to change your tank cleaning schedule. Bettas are a low waste fish.

 

Try taking a break in the lighting during the day. Keep the lights on for 4 hours, off for 4 hours, back on for 3 hours. The siesta in the middle helps with growth. (Something about Co2 production, not sure of the exact reasoning)

I agree that it looks like a lighting deficiency. My plants looked just like that. I just upgraded my lighting last week. Noticed a difference in just a week. Less melt, and new growth.

I use flourish root tabs, ultum all in 1 plant food, and replenish since I have a low gh. I also keep my nitrates between 20-40ppm. To help with nutrition. So you may need to change your tank cleaning schedule. Bettas are a low waste fish.

I need to get a test kit. Have no idea what my levels are.

I also have a Nerite snail as well. Do you think a 20-25% WC weekly is too much?

 

Get some Tetra 6 in 1 test strips. They are cheaper and work very well. It's the API strips that are garbage.

25% water changes isn't very much. I personally Start at 50% and if my nitrates are above 40, I up my amount of water I change to 75%. But without knowing your nitrates, it is impossible to tell if you need to do more or less water changes.

I would make the changes to the lighting. Maybe get a timer switch to help out. Change your plant food when you run out to Ultum all in one. It works the best. You can find it at buce plants.

 

So, the API master kit is better then strips, much more reliable. A kH/gH API test also comes in handy.

A siesta is used in walstead tanks to replenish co2, and is an integral part of the system (98% of us don't have a walstead tank, much less a true walstead tank). In unbalanced tanks it is used as a bandaid for algae. Reason being as the photoperiod is shortened the algae (and plants) don't have time to kick into "high gear photosynthesis", therefore, if the algae can't grow it can't spread (neither can plants grow to their potential).

With bad lighting a siesta won't help anything. You are better off getting the chihiros, keeping it on the fourth setting for 6 hrs for the first two weeks. After that increase it to the fifth setting for about a week, from there start increasing it 30 min/week until you hit 8hr max. Hopefully during this adjustment period you will run out of flourish and switch to one of the above mentioned ferts... given proper lighting your plants will start to show more of the minor nutrient deficiencies they are now showing (currently showling nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus- general yellowing, lighter green and thinner looking then normal, small holes, small GSA). Very low lighting will keep the plants minimally growing, therefor using less ferts. When you up their photosynthesis they need more support to keep them healthy.

For some reason many plants have a small explosion, my best guess for this is plants enter survival mode when uprooted and planted elsewhere (javas produce plantlets like mad at this point). I could be totally off base with this, but at least it's a fairly educated guess

Edit
Possibly the spectrum could be better on the 5 color for red and blue, however not necessary... I had two and removed them from my tanks.. both high and low tech, both has algae issues (well balanced tanks). Once the white chihiros went back on I had no problems. Beyond that it's really incredibly blue... you can barely make out anything in the tank... so for viewing pleasure it's no good. You could get a five color and leave it on white only on the seventh setting (running only 1 or three strips) and get by ok with your plant selection.

 

So, the API master kit is better then strips, much more reliable. A kH/gH API test also comes in handy.

A siesta is used in walstead tanks to replenish co2, and is an integral part of the system (98% of us don't have a walstead tank, much less a true walstead tank). In unbalanced tanks it is used as a bandaid for algae. Reason being as the photoperiod is shortened the algae (and plants) don't have time to kick into "high gear photosynthesis", therefore, if the algae can't grow it can't spread (neither can plants grow to their potential).

With bad lighting a siesta won't help anything. You are better off getting the chihiros, keeping it on the fourth setting for 6 hrs for the first two weeks. After that increase it to the fifth setting for about a week, from there start increasing it 30 min/week until you hit 8hr max. Hopefully during this adjustment period you will run out of flourish and switch to one of the above mentioned ferts... given proper lighting your plants will start to show more of the minor nutrient deficiencies they are now showing (currently showling nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus- general yellowing, lighter green and thinner looking then normal, small holes, small GSA). Very low lighting will keep the plants minimally growing, therefor using less ferts. When you up their photosynthesis they need more support to keep them healthy.

For some reason many plants have a small explosion, my best guess for this is plants enter survival mode when uprooted and planted elsewhere (javas produce plantlets like mad at this point). I could be totally off base with this, but at least it's a fairly educated guess

Edit
Possibly the spectrum could be better on the 5 color for red and blue, however not necessary... I had two and removed them from my tanks.. both high and low tech, both has algae issues (well balanced tanks). Once the white chihiros went back on I had no problems. Beyond that it's really incredibly blue... you can barely make out anything in the tank... so for viewing pleasure it's no good. You could get a five color and leave it on white only on the seventh setting (running only 1 or three strips) and get by ok with your plant selection.

Why the six hour photoperiod? Why not jump to 8-10? Also, this flourish will likely last me over a year.. 2mL a week, 8mL a month.

Edit: about 31 months. I could just buy the new fertilizer and bite the whole $8 loss on this stuff lol. However I've got a couple shrimp so I'd need a copper low/free version (so I hear copper doesn't go well with shrimp). I know Niloc G ThriveS (?) is for shrimp but a large price of almost $30 for either 8 or 16oz that won't last nearly as long.

 

I dose regular thrive with inverts (snails, shrimp, etc) and have no issues. Also dose dry eI ferts on others... csm+b... also fine with shrimp. 99.9% of ferts are totally safe with shrimp...copper amounts are trace, they need higher doses for damage to occur.

Some tanks never make it to 8-10hrs... I have a few high tech maxed out at seven, one at six, most around 8, and a few with stingrays at 10... mine are also super heavily planted with a lot of fast growing plants and good ferts. (Have 12 total, 8 with chihiros)
shorter photo periods and gradual adjustment up will give the plants time to adjust to growing differently... makes it easier on the plants and harder on the algae... plus you can notice issues with lighting when done correctly, vs starting higher, having issues, and then having to tweak backwards (lighting, ferts, etc). Having to decrease lighting and ferts at the same time and then start the increase while algae is present takes forever. Much easier to adjust lighting up slowly & increase ferts to support more growth if needed... good way to find the balance.

 

Have you had issue with any of your Chihiros heating the tank, or do you have the lights risen up high (using the metal risers)? 33W of LED gets to around 100-ish.

 

I've found this one that's a few dollars cheaper but seems sort of fishy being cheaper. The only difference I'm seeing is that there is an "M" after A501.



Or just go with the $35.99 one to be completely sure.

 

No...I've ordered from that seller before, I'd go for it.

They get hot on the seventh setting, not hot enough to the point I would get burned, but hot enough to not handle for long. At lower settings it's just warm. No issues with raising tank temp at all.

 

No...I've ordered from that seller before, I'd go for it.

They get hot on the seventh setting, not hot enough to the point I would get burned, but hot enough to not handle for long. At lower settings it's just warm. No issues with raising tank temp at all.

After looking into it a little more, the "M" models are the multi-colored and have 1000 lumens less than the all white.

 

Don't know anything about the M models... I have A (single and five color both shipped in a series boxes) and C

 

Don't know anything about the M models... I have A (single and five color both shipped in a series boxes) and C

Chihiros is on its way.

Is the highest setting (33W) just too bright for my tank? Should I go no higher than the fifth setting (after gradually increasing photoperiod)?

 

Deleted

 

I would start on the 4th for 1-2 weeks at six hrs, then the fifth for a week at six, then start increasing the time.
Yes, chances are you won't have to go above 5.... 6 can be done with excel and a lot of attention, likely co2 needed, 7th for sure co2

 

I would start on the 4th for 1-2 weeks at six hrs, then the fifth for a week at six, then start increasing the time.
Yes, chances are you won't have to go above 5.... 6 can be done with excel and a lot of attention, likely co2 needed, 7th for sure co2

Awesome. Do you know the wattage per level (ie 1-7)?

 

KeeperOfASilentWorld does
Just got themselves a PAR meter! Not sure if they took measurements at 8-10 inches though....

 

Awesome. Do you know the wattage per level (ie 1-7)?

I do not use a dimmer but Level 4 is exactly half the PAR, therefore probably half the wattage. I did not take detailed measurements yet.

As Jocelyn Adelman said, I also wouldn't advice going over 5. It is probably best if you stay at 4. If you start running CO2 you can gradually increase it by 1 level a week.

 

Long story short, I accidentally purchased a multI colored fixture. I've ordered a single color fixture and will hopefully be selling the multicolor fixture locally. If only the seller just took the darn return this would've been much faster lol.

 

Long story short, I accidentally purchased a multI colored fixture. I've ordered a single color fixture and will hopefully be selling the multicolor fixture locally. If only the seller just took the darn return this would've been much faster lol.

Are you referring to Chihiros fixtures?

 

Are you referring to Chihiros fixtures?

Yes.

 

I'm positive my issue with growth is 99% lack of Co2. Ordered a DIY kit with citric acid.