ph buffering problems.....?

jaleinwa

HI everyone! I've got more questions and thanks to everyone so far that has been so much helpl
okay I guessing this may be some kind of ph buffering problem. my tank is currently at a ph 7.6, kh 4-5 & gh of 12. I would like the ph to stay consistant at ph 7.0. now the ph of my tap water is at a perfect 7.0 but even after adding new water to the tank the ph goes back to 7.6. As substrate I'm using Flourite by Seachem, which states on the bag it doesn't alter ph. that is in the back of the tank for some planted amazon swords. the front of the tank is aquarium sand by Super Naturals in a mixture of moonlight sand and tahitian moon, which I did the vinegar test and had no results. Ammonia - 0 nitrite- O. I haven't tested the nitrate, have to get a new kit. Am I missing something?
now I looked into using a buffering products like proper Ph, but it states not to be used in planted aquariums.
This is to be a discus tank so that's why its so important to me to maintain a consistant ph.
75 gallon lightly planted
80 degree currently, will be increased shortly.
3 harlequin rasboras currently calling it home.
thanks so much to anyone that can help me out.
 

Isabella

As substrate I'm using Flourite by Seachem, which states on the bag it doesn't alter ph.

Funny, because I'm using Eco-Complete and the company also says Eco-Complete "won't affect pH". I have 3 tanks: 1 with Eco-Complete, and the other 2 with regular gravel. Guess what? The tank with Eco-Complete is the only one with high pH and, no matter what I do, I can't bring it down! I once performed 50% water changes for 3 consecutive weeks in the tank with Eco-Complete, and not a bit of change in the pH. I was told on plant geek that it's the Eco-Complete causing the high pH. While I don't know for sure, maybe your Fluorite is the reason for your high pH too.

They advised me on plant geek to simply continue with my regular water changes, that's the best you can do (because commercial products adjusting pH are very bad for fish, believe me). So that's what I am doing. Only I wonder how long it will take for the Eco-Complete to stop affecting my pH. My pH also reads 6.7 and it's because my color chart (I'm using AP test kit) doesn't go above 6.7. My guess is that your reading is 7.6 also because your color chart doesn't go higher. I am suspecting my pH is much higher than 7.6 since my color chat only reads up to 7.6. I'll be getting a high range pH test soon to see if the pH will read beyond 6.7.

P.S. My tank with Eco-Complete is also 75 gallons in volume. It's quite planted (I've some spots left to plant it fully). The fish so far are: 2 Angelfish, 6 Cherry Barbs, 2 Harlequin Rasboras, and 2 Zebra Danios. I'll be getting more fish soon (especially to fill out the Zebra Danios and Harlequin Rasboras schools). It's not overstocked now, just as your tank is not.

I think we have the same situation here (although I realize I may be wrong). Read this:
 

jaleinwa

thanks Isabella so much for the advice, It probably is the same issue and now I have an idea how to handle it and do water changes like you suggested.
Oh and that is what it means by high range ph. I asked the girl in the pet store what was the difference between ph and high range ph and she had no clue. thanks for clearing that up too, makes sense.
 

Isabella

You're welcome

Well, hopefully the water changes will help. Only I wonder how long it will take. A good nutrient-rich substrate lasts for quite some time (I'm thinking at least a year or two). So if this is how long it will take for Eco-Complete or Fluorite to give out ... that means LOTS of LARGE water changes for a LOOONG time :-\ I feel sorry for my fish that have to live in such a high pH. I am worried they'll suffer some long-term effects from the high pH.
 

Rex Grigg

The first thing to note is that the pH out of the tap is most often NOT the true pH of the water.

You either need to aerate the water for a couple of hours or let it sit for a minimum of 24 hours and then test the pH.

Second thing to note is that water with a natural pH of 7.0 is almost impossible.

If you have NO KH then the pH will swing wildly. If you have any measurable KH then the pH will be over 7.0

The best thing to do is to accept your tap water or use RO. Trying to reach some "magic" pH through the use of chemicals is a formula for disaster.

jaleinwa: Water with a kH of 4-5? will have a natural resting pH of right around 7.6 So there is nothing wrong with your water. If one has water that has NO other buffers present but bicarbonates and CO2 then the natural CO2 level will be around 2-3 ppm. So you can look at a pH/KH/CO2 chart and see what your natural water pH should be.
 

Butterfly

Hello and welcome Rex
Carol
 

Isabella

Welcome to Fish Lore Rex!
Great to see you here and thanks a bunch for your invaluable input

Jaleinwa ... Rex is an expert in planted tanks (and very much so in water chemistry).
 

Isabella

The first thing to note is that the pH out of the tap is most often NOT the true pH of the water ... You either need to aerate the water for a couple of hours or let it sit for a minimum of 24 hours and then test the pH.

It's me once again I have poured some tap water into two containers (one was dechlorinated and the other one was not) and let them stand there for 24 hours. The pH did not change in any of the two containers. It was 6.8 - 6.9 before and after these 24 hours.
 

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