Overflow, Sump, Freshwater Tank?

mossman
  • #1
I have a 65 gallon corner tank and the canister is currently located on the table top behind the tank and is only accessible from above. As you can imagine, this is a pain to remove for cleaning and re-priming is also a pain. I like having a surface skimmer in my tanks, but it gets very frustrating/irritating when they get clogged and/or the water level drops and it makes loud sucking sounds (I have been woken up in the middle of the night numerous times). Thus, I'd like to consider installing an overflow box and either relocating the canister to the floor below (finished basement) or perhaps going with a sump setup. Any reason NOT to do a freshwater sump located on the floor below? The head height would be about 12 feet.

I've considered changing the tank to a FOWLR tank, so this would be a logical next step.
 

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coralbandit
  • #2
My sump for my 180g is in the basement below the tank .
I use a Jeboa 15,000 digital DC pump and have no problems ,mess or filter noises to deal with in my living room .
Just have to bring yourself to cut a hole in your floor ..
 

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mossman
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
Cool. Not worried about cutting through the floor. In fact I had to relocate an air vent when I built the custom corner cabinet, so there's already a 4" x 10" hole in the floor Just need to think about where to locate the sump. It may be more like a 15' to 20' run, but the head height will still be no more than 12'.

Looks like a nice pump. Can you explain why I would want to adjust the speed? Is it to account for the sump load (i.e., how many filters and media I use and in turn how hard the pump has to work?). Once you find the correct speed, you leave it alone?

What type of overflow design do you use?

Do you slow the siphoned water down using valves or elbows, p-traps, etc?
 
aquachris
  • #4
I have a 210 that had two overflows built into it - I am using a Pro Clear sump on it, and absolutely its great. Hardest thing is adjusting to avoid strange noises, but after getting the hang of its not bad. I added gate valves to the drain, and just regular valves to the output - I have a DC return pump, so I can adjust there.

So really adjusting the speed is a mix of the gate valves on the output, and the speed of the pump so they match (water doesn't increase or decrease in the sump). The Pump I use is the Current USA DC Flow Pump 1900 GPH https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N028C75/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Since the tank was used, I bought a new overflow kit (Its the same one that was on the tank as its an Aqueon tank) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DJAZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. My Sump is https://bluefishaquarium.com/produc...n-1-refugium-300?_pos=12&_sid=beaf409c6&_ss=r. I put my heater in the sump, an ATO and bioballs and biomedia in there. I'm thinking of trying to turn the middle "refugium" part into a "freshwater" refugium basically to grow out plants/etc from the poop machines above.

In my signature is a link to my 210. Wow looking at that my Oscars are so small in it LOL. They are probably 4 times that size!
 
coralbandit
  • #5
My 180 has the Aqueon mega overflows built into it [2] .
Eshopps makes nice overflows [ look into the Eclipse] .The come with a drill bit for the glass.
If you need to go with a HOB overflow look into CPR and oversize it as much as possible .
I use no valves in any of my lines .
The overflows are your limiting factor .If they run or half flow it does not much matter .
But your pump and the amount of water returned to the tank is what needs to be controlled .
My pump is full blast and does not need adjustment but I run several other sumps where the control is important for proper set up .
 
fa4960
  • #6
Just a thumbs up for the Jeboa pump. I bought one on the recommendation from coralbandit and haven't regretted it at all. No matter what be sure to get a DC pump so you can change the power brick if needed and not the whole pump as I had to with my previous AC pump.
 
mossman
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
It's an acrylic tank, so drilling would be easy. Although I think I'd rather do a HOB since the tank is currently inhabited.
 
mossman
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
My 180 has the Aqueon mega overflows built into it [2] .
Eshopps makes nice overflows [ look into the Eclipse] .The come with a drill bit for the glass.
If you need to go with a HOB overflow look into CPR and oversize it as much as possible .
I use no valves in any of my lines .
The overflows are your limiting factor .If they run or half flow it does not much matter .
But your pump and the amount of water returned to the tank is what needs to be controlled .
My pump is full blast and does not need adjustment but I run several other sumps where the control is important for proper set up .

Do you have the DCQ or DCS pump? My tank is only 65 gallons, but according to CPR, I should add 1 to 2 ft for each bend in the pipe. I planned on using flexible hose for most of the run and convert to rigid pipe just before/after the sump.

Regarding the sump, is a 20 long sufficient?
 
coralbandit
  • #9
20 long is a good size .
A 30 long would be about the max for most .
29s are too tall to work out in most peoples stands .
I think my pumps are DCT and DCS . I think they just change model numbers every year ?
 

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