Oranda upside down. Not sure if swim bladder?

PeggyH

Hi,

I'm new here, so please bear with me.

I have an Oranda, by itself in a 20 gallon tank. Established over 5 years, the fish has been in it for the same amount of time, by itself. He has been floating upside down at the top of the tank for over a month, and can not swim down. Have tried fasting, and the green peas. He eats the peas, but still floating upside down. (I don't see any long string poop or anything) Change the water at least every two weeks. I have to take him out of the tank and put him in a bowl, since he can not swim down, to feed, and he seems ok with it (He knows it's time to eat, so doesn't look stressed about it, although it's not good to do that. Right now it's pretty much the only choice I have) Have been feeding him flake food, once or twice a day. He seems to have a good appetite, and I really can't see anything wrong with him, hopefully someone here can. He may have a swollen stomach, but I'm not sure about that. My pet store recommended Microbe-Lift Artemiss, and Microbe-Lift Hertana. Have done one regimen at 10 days and tomorrow will be his last day on this 2nd ten day regimine, and it has not helped. I have not tried a salt bath yet, was not sure if I should with the using the Microb-Lift. He is not acting stressed, or rubbing up against anything. He can only swim sideways, but mostly floats around with current from the pump, and perks up when he sees me.
Water tested with Tetra EasyStrips, 6 in one: Nitrate is between 0 and 20 ppm. Nitrite is 0 ppm. Water Hardness is between 0 and 25 GH ppm. Chloride is 0 ppm. Total Alkalinity is between 120 and 180 KH. PH is between 7.2 and 7.8. I'm sorry, but I don't have a reading for the ammonia, I am waiting on my order to come in to test it.
I'm attaching a picture of him in the bowl. Sure hope someone has some advice. Thanks in advance.
 

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pagoda

I wouldn't keep moving the fish from aquarium to bowl all the time as that stresses the fish and stress can manifest itself in many ways including illness.

The aquarium is not really big enough and your water change routine certainly isn't up to standard for a goldie of any kind...they are mess magnets

I would suggest daily 50% water changes for 7-10 days, then 50% once a week

I also suggest you buy a liquid type test kit since the paper strips are notoriously inaccurate, especially without a test for ammonia
 
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PeggyH

I wouldn't keep moving the fish from aquarium to bowl all the time as that stresses the fish and stress can manifest itself in many ways including illness.

The aquarium is not really big enough and your water change routine certainly isn't up to standard for a goldie of any kind...they are mess magnets

I would suggest daily 50% water changes for 7-10 days, then 50% once a week

I also suggest you buy a liquid type test kit since the paper strips are notoriously inaccurate, especially without a test for ammonia
HI, Thanks for answering so quickly.

How would you suggest I feed him, since he can't swim other than upside down or sideways at the top? I really don't know what to do about that.

I thought a 20 gallon tank was plenty big enough for one goldfish. What size should it be?

Okay, thanks for the suggestion on the water changes. (I have actually been changing it more often and smaller water changes with the Microbe- Lift in, since he is not being fed in the tank.) I did do a major water change when he first got sick. Will do that, and look into buying a liquid test kit. I know you said the paper strips are unreliable, but from the results I gave you, does the water seem okay?

Do you think I should I should give him a salt bath? Discontinue the Microbe-Lift?

Thank you for your help.
 
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pagoda

I would back away from the meds...stores see a sale, not the welfare of the fish first.

Without an ammonia test you really have no idea what the water quality is really like and goldies make alot of mess. Ideally your fish would be better in at least 50 gallons, mainly due to the sheer amount of mess that they make...sends ammonia levels to the roof potentially damaging the fish, even fatally if not controlled

Whilst waiting for the liquid test kit to arrive, do 50% water changes every day which will keep the water chemistry better and cleaner for the fish and could aid recovery...albeit very slowly.

As for eating, go to a vet or your doctor and ask for a small child dose syringe without a needle and manually feed him using that.

I have heard of this before, and went searching to find the information....

Its a very interesting read

 
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PeggyH

Thank you, I appreciate that.

I didn't want to dose him with any harmful meds, not knowing what is wrong with him, that is why I had went with the Microbe-Lift as it is supposed to be all natural. I will discontinue that, thanks.

I will do the water changes as you suggested.

I do have a syringe without a needle. I'll try it that way.

One last thing, what is your thoughts on a salt bath?

Thank you!
 
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pagoda

You can try epsom salt baths but...without an accurate ammonia test, there is a real chance that there has been an undetected ammonia issue which caused your fish to become ill.

Epsom salt baths is by no means the cure all. Having really clean water every day will do him more good as I suspect the damage might be too far, no harm in trying though

I have never had to use it so unsure of dosage.
 
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PeggyH

I finally found a pet store that just got in the liquid ammonia test, I didn't want to wait until the other got in:
API Nh3/NH4 Ammonia Test Kit:

The reading is between 0 ppm and 0.25 (Which is yellow/green. It tends to look more yellow (which is 0) with a tinge of the light green (which is 0.25)

I did a 50% water change after testing. Is this a too high of reading, and when do I test again? Before the next water change, or after this one I just did? I am using Tetra Aqua Safe Plus water conditioner with water changes.

Thank you!
 
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