Oranda Sitting On Bottom

boohead
  • #1
my oranda just sits on the bottom. I moved Baby from a 30 gallon tank because one of roommates, a runkyn, was chasing and picking on him/her. Baby had been sitting on the bottom most of the time. the 30 gallon tank is registering off the chart ammonia levels and I have been doing water changes 50% once and sometimes I use amno-lock, sometimes prime. another problem is I think I've used too much aquarium salt. but I did remove Baby and he/she is in a 15 gallon and the ammonia is good, but he's not really eating. occasionally swimming to the top but rarely. I put a heater in the tank. am I doing to many things at once?
 
Goldiemom
  • #2
What are your water parameters in the 15 gallon? Did you use water conditioner to remove chlorine? Water temp? How long have you had the fish? Pic?
 
Carbeo
  • #3
Maybe doing too many things. The sitting on the bottom could be from stress with the water quality or constipation or some such issue. Once the water quality is fixed, any other issue can be dealt with. So a new 15 gallon with one fish. How many fish in the 30 with the ammonia spike? All new tanks? Interested in the filter too like the other poster
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #4

15277112813402872902793916476204.jpg
15277112401898658754124329534097.jpg I used tap water conditioner and prime. I've had the Baby 2 years. I think its automatically at 72.what so you mean paraimeters?
 
Goldiemom
  • #5
Did you cycle this tank before putting the fish in? What is your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings?
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
the 30 gallon is 2 years old. two pumps, penguin bio wheel 200 and aqua tech 30-60. just recently added the bio wheel pump. I did a 50% water change on Saturday. but did move Baby into the 15 gal until Monday.
15277117788508553866182050239695.jpg
 
Goldiemom
  • #7
If your tank is not cycled, then that is the problem. Please dose with Prime daily and read up on fish in cycles. You will need an API Master Freshwater Test Kit in order to keep up with your parameters. The fish is likely feeling the affects of ammonia poisoning. If you don't get these things handled, the fish won't likely make it. Is your other tank cycled?
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
Did you cycle this tank before putting the fish in? What is your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings?
I put the prime and tap water conditioner. I really didnt cycle because of the runkyn harrassment of Baby. I have only done an ammonia level which was .25ppm
 
Goldiemom
  • #9
Do you know of the nitrogen cycle? The tank has to be cycled.

What are the readings in your other tank? I may be asking things you just don't know. If so, that's o.k. We can guide you through this but the cycle has to be done. If the other tank is cycled, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and less than 40 ppm nitrates, then you can use some of the filter media out of that tank to do an automatic cycle on the 15G. This may all sound foriegn to you but if the other fish have been in the other tank for 2 years, it should be cycled. Can you move some of the filter media (split the filter floss) over to the 15G. That may give you an automatic cycle and the fish will perk up.
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
If your tank is not cycled, then that is the problem. Please dose with Prime daily and read up on fish in cycles. You will need an API Master Freshwater Test Kit in order to keep up with your parameters. The fish is likely feeling the affects of ammonia poisoning. If you don't get these things handled, the fish won't likely make it. Is your other tank cycled?
the 30 gallon is a 2 year old tank. the levels have always been perfect until my lost a 4th oranda two weeks ago. he was swimming upside down occasionally and tried to feed peas, he did better, and then he fins looked really ragged and he was dead. I had checked the levels and that's when I discovered the out of the world ammonia, started doing water changes ammo lock, filter change, added another pump. I thought that maybe the sick fish shot the ammonia levels up, but have not been able to get them down since...I have three water changes.
 
Carbeo
  • #11
the 30 gallon tank is registering off the chart
15 gallon and the ammonia is good
the 30 gallon is 2 years old

It's interesting the 2 year old tank is the one with the ammonia spike. Be careful to alternate which filter pads you clean/replace to keep some of your beneficial bacteria at all times. This quarantine tank for baby wasn't cycled so monitor the ammonia each day (since it's zero now on day one). Baby might have gotten and sick and bullied following the ammonia in your main tank. Solving why your old tank crashed it's cycle is key
 
Goldiemom
  • #12
I know I keep asking the same thing and please forgive me. Do you know what your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are now in both tanks?
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #13
What are the readings in your other tank? I may be asking things you just don't know. If so, that's o.k. We can guide you through this but the cycle has to be done. If the other tank is cycled, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and less than 40 ppm nitrates, then you can use some of the filter media out of that tank to do an automatic cycle on the 15G. This may all sound foriegn to you but if the other fish have been in the other tank for 2 years, it should be cycled. Can you move some of the filter media (split the filter floss) over to the 15G. That may give you an automatic cycle and the fish will perk up.
the 30 gallon is a 2 year old tank. the levels have always been perfect until my lost a 4th oranda two weeks ago. he was swimming upside down occasionally and tried to feed peas, he did better, and then he fins looked really ragged and he was dead. I had checked the levels and that's when I discovered the out of the world ammonia, started doing water changes ammo lock, filter change, added another pump. I thought that maybe the sick fish shot the ammonia levels up, but have not been able to get them down since...I have three water changes.
I do have a test kit....
 
Goldiemom
  • #14
Can you test both tanks now and give us the parameters? We can walk you through what to do from there.
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #15
What are the readings in your other tank? I may be asking things you just don't know. If so, that's o.k. We can guide you through this but the cycle has to be done. If the other tank is cycled, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and less than 40 ppm nitrates, then you can use some of the filter media out of that tank to do an automatic cycle on the 15G. This may all sound foriegn to you but if the other fish have been in the other tank for 2 years, it should be cycled. Can you move some of the filter media (split the filter floss) over to the 15G. That may give you an automatic cycle and the fish will perk up.
when you talk about the filter...can I put one of the filter from the 30 gallon into the 15 gallon? the 30 is the high ammonia?

I know I keep asking the same thing and please forgive me. Do you know what your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are now in both tanks?
that I will have to test right now.....give me about 15 minutes on that
 
Goldiemom
  • #16
Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Read up on this link and then get back to us with your test results for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in both tanks. If you read the article, you will understand what we are trying to do. We are happy to walk you through it. I have to head out for a bit but will check when I return if no one else has helped you yet. Read the article though first and relax, we will get this fixed.
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #17
It's interesting the 2 year old tank is the one with the ammonia spike. Be careful to alternate which filter pads you clean/replace to keep some of your beneficial bacteria at all times. This quarantine tank for baby wasn't cycled so monitor the ammonia each day (since it's zero now on day one). Baby might have gotten and sick and bullied following the ammonia in your main tank. Solving why your old tank crashed it's cycle is key


level 30 gallon: pH 6.0
amonia 8.0
nitrite 0
nitrate 40 & 80 to close to call

level 15 gallon: pH 7.6
amonia .50
nitrite 0
nitrate 0
 
Goldiemom
  • #18
PH is fine in both tanks so we won’t worry about that. Dose both tanks with Prime per directions. The Prime will make the ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates non-toxic to the fish although they will still be there. You will have to test for ammonia daily. If it gets above 1ppm, do a partial water change to bring it down. Continue doing this daily. After a while you will begin seeing nitrites and the ammonia will drop. The nitrites will climb for several weeks. Keep checking daily and if they climb higher than about 1ppm, do another partial water change. Eventually, you will begin to see nitrates. That means you’re almost done. Continue checking the ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates daily. Once your ammonia and nitrites have dropped to 0, you are cycled. Then you just need to do one last water change to get your nitrates between 5 and 20. Remember to continue dosing with Prime daily to protect the fish until you cycle at 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and 20 or less nitrates. Actually, the nitrates can go as high as 40 with goldfish but better at 20 or below. Good luck and keep us posted. Patience is the key.
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #19
PH is fine in both tanks so we won’t worry about that. Dose both tanks with Prime per directions. The Prime will make the ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates non-toxic to the fish although they will still be there. You will have to test for ammonia daily. If it gets above .25ppm, do a partial water change to bring it down. Continue doing this daily. After a while you will see art seeing nitrites and the ammonia will drop. The nitrites will climb for several weeks. Keep checking daily and if they climb higher than 8 ppm, do another partial water change. Eventually, you will begin to see nitrates. That means you’re almost done. Continue checking the ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates daily. Once your ammonia and nitrites have dropped to 0, you are cycled. Then you just need to do one last water change to get your nitrates between 5 and 20. Remember to continue dosing with Prime daily to protect the fish until you cycle at 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and 20 or less nitrates. Actually, the nitrates can go as high as 40 with goldfish but better at 20 or below. Good luck and keep us posted.
do I do the water changes in both aquariums?
 
Goldiemom
  • #20
do I do the water changes in both aquariums?
Yes, both tanks need to be cycled. You probably had a cycle in the first tank but somehow lost it. Only change your filter media when it is falling apart. To clean it, swish it in some tank water. Chlorine from the tap will kill the beneficial bacteria in the media.
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #21
Yes, both tanks need to be cycled. You probably had a cycle in the first tank but somehow lost it. Only change your filter media when it is falling apart. To clean it, swish it in some tank water. Chlorine from the tap will kill the beneficial bacteria in the media.
okiedockie....
 
Goldiemom
  • #22
Here is a simple step by step guide to cycling your tank. May be easier to read and go by... Fish in Cycle Guide

Just remember that once you get your cycle complete (0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and some nitrates), do a partial water change to get nitrites below 20, preferably 5-10ppm. Also, if you want to speed things up a little, you can get a bottle of Seachem’s Stability and add that according to directions. It will add some beneficial bacteria for you. Again, good luck and keep us posted.
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #23
Will do.....Thanks!!!!
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #24
wanted you to know that all tanks are happy now.....I went to the beach and now fighting pneumonia so glad everything stable. I can rest easy...thanks for your help!!! everybody!!
 
Goldiemom
  • #25
wanted you to know that all tanks are happy now.....I went to the beach and now fighting pneumonia so glad everything stable. I can rest easy...thanks for your help!!! everybody!!
Take care of yourself and thanks for the update. Love to hear positive outcomes. Best wishes for a speedy record very!
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #26
is it better for orandas not to have gravel? and also what do you think about gel food
 
Goldiemom
  • #27
I don’t know about Oranda’s specifically. I know a lot of people don’t like to be se gravel for goldfish because they say they can choke. Mine didn’t like sand so I use gravel. Just a matter of choice. I haven’t used gel foods but a lot of people do. You can add what you want to them which is nice.
 
Galathiel
  • #28
My oranda loves the sand in his tank. He spends his whole day sifting and searching for stray morsels. He's relentless. LOL. I have Repashy Super Gold gel for my goldies. I also feed New Life Spectrum pellets, bloodworms and veggies.
 
Goldiemom
  • #29
Forgot the bloodworms. I think if mine had started on sand it may have been different. My house is crazy. All the tanks have sand is except the Goldie’s. They just freaked when I did it and kept going up and down along the glass wanting out. As soon as I changed it back they were happy as a lark. Spoiled rotten!
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #30
Forgot the bloodworms. I think if mine had started on sand it may have been different. My house is crazy. All the tanks have sand is except the Goldie’s. They just freaked when I did it and kept going up and down along the glass wanting out. As soon as I changed it back they were happy as a lark. Spoiled rotten!
That's funny....They do have big personalities
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #31
My oranda loves the sand in his tank. He spends his whole day sifting and searching for stray morsels. He's relentless. LOL. I have Repashy Super Gold gel for my goldies. I also feed New Life Spectrum pellets, bloodworms and veggies.
I've tried to make the gels and I guess I'm doing something wrong.....is this just seaweed? I saw a you tube thing on it and theirs looked kinda clear, maybe I'm putting too much of the powder. I have dried seaweed, is it not the same thing.
 
Galathiel
  • #32
If it was kind of clear, then they put a LOT of gelatin in it (were they making their own gel food?). Here's a video showing Jennie Lynx making some and putting it in her tank on a rock. There you can see the consistency:
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #33
If it was kind of clear, then they put a LOT of gelatin in it (were they making their own gel food?). Here's a video showing Jennie Lynx making some and putting it in her tank on a rock. There you can see the consistency:

that's really interesting... got a question my oranda, Baby, swims backwards alot....WHY? I mean I've always been backasswards(my granddad use to say that), so does Baby take after me?
 
Galathiel
  • #34
If you can get a video of it, that would be helpful. It's not uncommon for fish to back up/away, though.
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #35
If you can get a video of it, that would be helpful. It's not uncommon for fish to back up/away, though.

trying to load it...ignore conversation, though it might be entertaining....lol
 
boohead
  • Thread Starter
  • #36
trying to load it...ignore conversation, though it might be entertaining....lol
I couldn't figure out how to load to this message so I put it on freshwater forum oranda swimming backwards
 

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