Opinions On Nano Tanks

Discussion in 'Freshwater Aquarium Builds' started by Sharkaroid, Apr 23, 2019.

  1. SharkaroidValued MemberMember

    I've had this little fella in the same 1.5g tank for over a year and right now I'm healing his big fins before moving him to a now permanent 5.5g home.

    This is the tank he's in right now. There is some duckweed and a hygro i just put there, along with the indian almond leaf and this cute little cave (the previous decor is already moved to the new tank).

    This is the new tank. It is heavily planted with hygros, anachris, riccia and java moss, camombas and dwarf baby tears, as I intend to keep cherry shrimp in it too (they are so tiny they'll fit in each and every crevice to escape Mustard in case he bothers to run after them). There is already a blue ramshorn snail (which just laid a crab ton of eggs). This tank does not seem to be cycled though, I suspect it after losing all three cherry shrimp I had bought. Either that or my pipes have some heavy load of copper. Illumination is kind of makeshift by now, I'm using a 15W CFL (i guess). Plan to change it to 9W or less of LEDs salvaged from an office tube light.

    Any opinions on my builds, is there anything else I can do to optimize them to better suit the fish and the invertebrates?

    Additional questions: When should I replace the almond leaf? Is it safe to put one in the new tank? Won't the acidity hurt the shrimp and snails? Should I really add ferts or is the fish and snail poop enough to feed the plants?
  2. guppgirlValued MemberMember

    Are you running a heater/filter? What are your water parameters on that tank? It’s impossible to know if it’s cycled without knowing about the parameters and what you’ve added.
  3. SharkaroidValued MemberMember

    I'll use a 10W heater if it gets too cold, as room temp this season is usually good for a betta (23-25°C). I have a sponge filter too but I don't know where to put it.

    As of parameters, the pH is 7.0 and ammonia was 0 a few days ago, but maybe I have to check it again. Nitrates and nitrites are unknown because I have no tests for them yet, besides the fact the water killed shrimp a few days ago.
  4. SharkaroidValued MemberMember

    Well, the new tank is now set up, with temps around 25ºC (80ºF) and pH around 7, completely cycled. The sponge filter has been added, along with a DIY CO2 system. The lights are on for 12h/day and the CO2 is being turned off 1h before turning off the lamp, so that there is no pH swing.

    WhatsApp Image 2019-06-07 at 18.59.08.jpeg

    I am now using Flourish to ensure good plant growth, and added plants such as Hydrocotyle tripartita and anachris because the dwarf baby tears and the cabomba didn't go well. The other plants are doing just fine, all of them, but I can't get the bigger hygrophylas (the ones on teh left behind the filter) pruned right, and their tops are growing compact instead of tall. Is that due to excessive light?

    WhatsApp Image 2019-06-07 at 19.31.47.jpeg

    As for animals, I added a few random cherry shrimp that the LFS guy donated me. They are doing fine for a week (those guys are real Houdinis, I have to make quite an effort to find them), and I hope they keep going well with the precautions i'm taking about CO2 buildup. The tank is infested with daphnia, though, and they must be competing with the shrimps for food, but i can see the shrimps are eating because they are pooping. I'm afraid they might try to eat the betta's fins after I put him in the tank. Or can he just shrug them off and eat them on the long run?
  5. FahnFishlore VIPMember

    Set the lights to 6-8 hours a day, 12 is considered excessive.

    You may want to consider using a more comprehensive fertilizer, especially with CO2. Flourish is just trace elements and lacks macro nutrients that plants require such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphate.

    Dwarf baby tears are very demanding and require a nutrient rich substrate, powerful lighting, injected CO2, and frequent fertilizer dosing.

    Plants grow more compact and laterally if given sufficient light and if they are pruned frequently. The more your prune, the bushier they get.

    Daphnia are harmless, if anything your betta will eat them. They shouldn't out-compete your shrimp.

    The tank looks good, hope it works out!
  6. NoboteValued MemberMember

    A 7 watt flat auto set heater will heat a 5.5 gallon tank just fine, and is small and unobtrusive. I took my 25w out of mine and put a 7w in-- it keeps the aquarium 74 degrees easily.
  7. FahnFishlore VIPMember

    74 is too cold for bettas. They need 78-82 degree water.
  8. SharkaroidValued MemberMember

    All righty, I'll leave the light on for 7h and see how it turns out. If the plants need more, I'll make it 8, if less, make it 6.

    Which ferts do you recommend? And may I use something like liquid garden ferts along with flourish? They have macro nutrients, probably arent toxic and are waaay cheaper than buying the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium from seachem.

    Yeah, I figured that out about DBT... Guess I got bamboozled by the vendor.

    Yeah, that's pretty cool about plants, though I noticed that some will usually only grow to one side when pruned, like cabombas and elodeas, leaving them un-bushy.
    As for the lights, will the plants grow taller if i turn them down?

    Well, i thought they could be harmful to the betta because they probably bullied my (already sick) snail to death... Or it just died from an existing disease, who knows.

    Oh thanks!!!
    I'm feeling very flattered right now ^^
    I hope it will get even better with your tips, thank you so much!
  9. NoboteValued MemberMember

    I politely disagree.
  10. SharkaroidValued MemberMember

    bettas can live well in this temperature, but i don't think it's optimal for them. Mine does seem to feel better at around 25-26°C (77-78°F).