Odyssea t5 light system setup to grow red plants?

I have an Odyssea t5 light system
I'm looking to grown red plants so I bought a bunch of ludwigia and it all died... I have two 10,000K bulbs that are maybe 2 years old... in the fixture so why did my plants die? I have flourite substrate an I'm doing Seachem iron, potassium, flourish with each water change (25% weekly in a 55g)

Should I replace the bulbs back with two 10,000K bulbs or a 6,700K and a 10,000k??

Other plants filing in my tank are
Cambomba
Java fern
Narrow leaf ludwigia

 

 

I have a similar set up on my tank. Currently I have a T8 bulb, but my don't grow as tall as they should. They are healthy however, but I'm gonna try a T 12 . I suspect your lighten is too bright also.
You may possibly need a CO2 system.

 

I have co2 system readyvif need be but my how light plants are growing well but my "high" light plants are dying

 

 

Wisteria has hardly any growth either

 

Jungle Val are the length of the tank almost but nearly all other plants have died off COMPLETLY

 

Your bulbs are two years old, I've heard fluorescent tubes lose intensity over time. I'd try new bulbs, and maybe mix a "grow" bulb or two in with the high-K ones, just to be sure you're getting enough red and blue wavelength.

 

Wisteria has hardly any growth either

Wow that's one of the easiest plants. So I'm told. I just planted some yesterday.

 

Definitely replace the bulbs. I'd go with two 6700 K. Don't expect high light from that though. You'll likely be at low-medium with that.

 

Definitely replace the bulbs. I'd go with two 6700 K. Don't expect high light from that though. You'll likely be at low-medium with that.

Is that enough to grow red plants?

Or should I do 2 10,000K? I would really love to know what for sure will grow. Reds

 

Not very red, no. But you can grow the bronze crypts. Your ludwigia may get a bit pink.

 

So should a go with a 6,700 and a 10,000??

 

The 10000 won't help you grow reds. You need a higher PAR and to dose iron to get really red plants (and CO2 for some). A higher light temp (6500 K vs 10000 K) does not mean a higher par and will not result in more red plants.

 

my ludwigia grows like a weed under my LED lights. its pretty red too. I have to clip 4-6 in off every single week. its a bit insane

 

The 10000 won't help you grow reds. You need a higher PAR and to dose iron to get really red plants (and CO2 for some). A higher light temp (6500 K vs 10000 K) does not mean a higher par and will not result in more red plants.

Don't get me wrong this is all insanely helpful but what to I have to have (in terms of lighting) to get red? I have ferts and can start running co2 tomorrow but I just need to know what's gonna get me a high lighting par

So if we go by the old system of WPG if I have two 54watt bulbs of 10,000k will ludwigia repens grown red with the aid of iron, good substrate and diy co2?

 

Don't get me wrong this is all insanely helpful but what to I have to have (in terms of lighting) to get red? I have ferts and can start running co2 tomorrow but I just need to know what's gonna get me a high lighting par

So if we go by the old system of WPG if I have two 54watt bulbs of 10,000k will ludwigia repens grown red with the aid of iron, good substrate and diy co2?

Do you want 10000 K for a particular reason?

For a 55 gal tank, going by the WPG rule (which is not good or reliable), then 54 watts won't be much at all.

If you want really red Ludwigia, go with dual T5HOs (I think quad T5HO would be too much without injected CO2) or a good LED.

 

Do you want 10000 K for a particular reason?

For a 55 gal tank, going by the WPG rule (which is not good or reliable), then 54 watts won't be much at all.

If you want really red Ludwigia, go with dual T5HOs (I think quad T5HO would be too much without injected CO2) or a good LED.

Okay T5HO of what caliber?

 

Odyssea is a sub brand of Jebo FYI

 

So should I just go with two 10,000K T5HOs?

 

You didn't answer my question above - do you want 10000 K for a particular reason? 6500 K might be better for reds.

Two T5HOs should be fine. Brand shouldn't matter.

 

You didn't answer my question above - do you want 10000 K for a particular reason? 6500 K might be better for reds.

Two T5HOs should be fine. Brand shouldn't matter.

I just want whatever will grow red I just say 10,000k because it's a high spec

 

Again, 10000 K is the temp of the bulb and has nothing to do with PAR (what makes a light high, medium, or low). I'm not sure what you mean by "high spec." Higher numbers doesn't it's mean better.

 

Again, 10000 K is the temp of the bulb and has nothing to do with PAR (what makes a light high, medium, or low). I'm not sure what you mean by "high spec." Higher numbers doesn't it's mean better.

I just want to know what exact bulb I need to grow red plants in a 19 inch depth tank

 

Ok, crash course in lighting.

T5, T8. is the size of the bulb, T8 is obviously larger and will out out more light.

K rating means kelvin. The temp range of the lighting spectrum, it doesn't mean the higher K has more light or more output, it means that certain range is produced in that bulb.

Watts make a light broghter. Higher the watts, the brighter the light.

Lumens/brightness is how bright the light is, has nothing to do with the size of the bulb or the K rating.

PAR is the photosynthetic active radiation.... how much of the light spectrum the plant absorbs and uses for photosynthesis.

Ok...crash course over....

I have a moderate planted aquarium, 300 gallons main display. I do use CO2, I do not add iron, my substrate has enough nutrients that I don't need to.

I use T5 HO 7000K grow bulbs. 2 fixtures that hold 4 bulbs each, so 8 total

Flourescent lights don't really put out much light, so make sure to get the HO (high output) or VHO (very high output) bulbs.

 

Ok, crash course in lighting.

T5, T8. is the size of the bulb, T8 is obviously larger and will out out more light.

K rating means kelvin. The temp range of the lighting spectrum, it doesn't mean the higher K has more light or more output, it means that certain range is produced in that bulb.

Watts make a light broghter. Higher the watts, the brighter the light.

Lumens/brightness is how bright the light is, has nothing to do with the size of the bulb or the K rating.

PAR is the photosynthetic active radiation.... how much of the light spectrum the plant absorbs and uses for photosynthesis.

Ok...crash course over....

I have a moderate planted aquarium, 300 gallons main display. I do use CO2, I do not add iron, my substrate has enough nutrients that I don't need to.

I use T5 HO 7000K grow bulbs. 2 fixtures that hold 4 bulbs each, so 8 total

Flourescent lights don't really put out much light, so make sure to get the HO (high output) or VHO (very high output) bulbs.

THANK YOU! So much so I'm probably going to go with. T5HO 6,700k and a 10,000k thank you everyone who has helped me out here

 

Here is an informative write up on lighting spectrum and photosynthesis.



I think 10K and 6700K will be a nice combo.

 

Ok, crash course in lighting.

T5, T8. is the size of the bulb, T8 is obviously larger and will out out more light.

I'm not sure that's true. T5 lights are usually better than T8s. I've never heard that T8s put out more light, and I've never heard of any of the big planted guys using T8s over T5s.
supanova if your ludwigia doesn't get red enough for you, dosing iron may help.

 

I'm not sure that's true. T5 lights are usually better than T8s. I've never heard that T8s put out more light, and I've never heard of any of the big planted guys using T8s over T5s.
supanova if your ludwigia doesn't get red enough for you, dosing iron may help.

Wow dude TexasDomer

Ok, I edited my post... just going to leave it at that.... .... it's all I can say is wow....

 

Wow dude @TexasDomer

Ok, I edited my post... just going to leave it at that.... .... it's all I can say is wow....

Wow what? There's nothing wrong with my response.

 

My single T5 grows plants better than a single T8. Just saying...

 

I went with a T5HO 10,000k and a 6,700k I will continue to post progress pictures in this thread if your Interested

 

Please do.

 

Wow what? There's nothing wrong with my response.

Just wow... Without getting into an argument. ....

I don't base advice on what others are doing. I don't start my diagnosis with "I don't think.... what the big planted guys are doing.... this/that is better by what everybody else does...

that's what I was getting at..... just wow....

And, just to rebut. ... the difference in a T5 and T8 is efficiency. It doesn't change the K rating... the wattage... or output (brightness) <---- except maybe slightly....

The lumens of an 8 watt T8 is 90
The lumens of an 8 watt T5 is 99

K ratings are identical, brightness is imperceptible to the human eye or in the PAR of the plant. ( You need a spectrometer to tell the difference. )

What I was talking about a T8 being larger, and putting out more light than a smaller T5 was the coverage area. A larger T8 illuminates a larger area than a smaller, similar watt T5 can.

All that, is based on facts.... not who is doing what and what someone might think....

Not being argumentative, not hating or being juvenile... but, but, but ------you did ask.

 

Just wow... Without getting into an argument. ....

I don't base advice on what others are doing. I don't start my diagnosis with "I don't think.... what the big planted guys are doing.... this/that is better by what everybody else does...

that's what I was getting at..... just wow....

And, just to rebut. ... the difference in a T5 and T8 is efficiency. It doesn't change the K rating... the wattage... or output (brightness) <---- except maybe slightly....

The lumens of an 8 watt T8 is 90
The lumens of an 8 watt T5 is 99

K ratings are identical, brightness is imperceptible to the human eye or in the PAR of the plant. ( You need a spectrometer to tell the difference. )

What I was talking about a T8 being larger, and putting out more light than a smaller T5 was the coverage area. A larger T8 illuminates a larger area than a smaller, similar watt T5 can.

All that, is based on facts.... not who is doing what and what someone might think....

Not being argumentative, not hating or being juvenile... but, but, but ------you did ask.

There was just one point that I disagreed with, and I thought it was an important and relevant point to clarify for OP I wasn't being argumentative. But this is a forum where we are all free to share (politely) our experiences, knowledge, and opinions.

OP has already decided to go with a T5 over a T8, which is a great choice.

 

There was just one point that I disagreed with, and I thought it was an important and relevant point to clarify for OP I wasn't being argumentative. But this is a forum where we are all free to share (politely) our experiences, knowledge, and opinions.

OP has already decided to go with a T5 over a T8, which is a great choice.

Psssh. ... I AM BEING POLITE.

I just come across that way, I guess. LOL my bed side manner, might need some work.... but just for future reference, I AM BEING POLITE!!!

 

I use LEDs at super high PAR at around 10,000k. I wanted to experiment the most aggressive setup and took me around two months to stabilize things like algae, life stock, dosing and temperature. I also have very high CO2 probably at around 6-7bps and dose seachem bottles at slightly more than what the instructions say.

Here are my ludwigia repens:

 

I have LED lights that are 10000K also....but I was told they are low light LEDs....and that 10000k has nothing to do with the PAR. I am not saying your light doesn't have high PAR PandaLoach ...I am just saying that from what I understand, 10000k has nothing to do with the PAR....Those are separate things.....

 

I have LED lights that are 10000K also....but I was told they are low light LEDs....and that 10000k has nothing to do with the PAR. I am not saying your light doesn't have high PAR PandaLoach ...I am just saying that from what I understand, 10000k has nothing to do with the PAR....Those are separate things.....

Yup I know the difference. One is color temperature and the other is intensity. Most people suggest 6500k being a good temperature but I also read somewhere HC (what I'm trying to grow) take on full sunlight.

I'm actually mixing 5 LED plates with different specs on my DIY light. The middle one has white and blue (450nm) lights (20 leds), wrapped around by two red (660nm) and blue (440nm) (10 leds) and then two white lights each with 10 leds. Total power consumption is 140w.

I'm definitely having more lighting than I need and it turns out the heat generated is also causing issues so I need to hang it higher up and possibly add a dimmer.

 

Yup I know the difference. One is color temperature and the other is intensity. Most people suggest 6500k being a good temperature but I also read somewhere HC (what I'm trying to grow) take on full sunlight.

I was just going off of your statement:

"I use LEDs at super high PAR at around 10,000k."