Nitrogen & Nitrates In The Planted Tank

I set up and planted my first tank on April 1st this year.

Equipment
30 gallon Aqueon tank
Eheim 2215 canister filter
2x Aquaray Grobeam 600 Ultima LED lights
Hydor Koralia Nano Aquarium Circulation Pump rated at 240 GPH

Animal stock
6x JuliI corys
8x Black Ruby barbs
2x Honey gouramis
10x Amano shrimp
4x Nerite snails

Plant stock
1x Ludwigia Broad Leaf (Ludwigia repens)
1x Sword Kleiner Bar (Echinodorus 'Kleiner Bar')
1x Cryptocoryne undulatus (Cryptocoryne undulatus)
4x Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis)
10x Anacharis (Egeria densa)
10x Bacopa (Bacopa caroliniana)
Front carpet Water Clover (Marsilea Hirsuta)

Nutes (all Seachem)
Root Tabs (installed)
Flourish
Excel
Nitrogen
Phosphorus
Potassium
Iron

Environment
Temp: 77
Ph: 7.8
Light cycle: 9 hours
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 20 pmm - 40 ppm
Water changes: 50% weekly using Prime

All the plants I selected were listed as low light and low CO2 on Tropica. Some of my plants aren't looking as good as they should. The Bacopa started to fade in color and slow in growth so I ripped it out and replaced it with fresh stock. I think that could be a need for more light but I'm not sure.

The Wisteria grows and I've had to cut it twice but only the top pair of leaves seem to be nice bright green. The next pair down the leaf color starts to dull and darken. The edges of the leaves start to brown a bit. They don't die just wave around in the current looking bad. It seems to get good light with no shading of the lower leaves.

With the Crypto when I bought it the leaves were all nicely green and uniform. Now some are light green, some dark green, some yellowish and some brown. They all seem healthy it's just the color is off. This one also seems to get good direct light.

The Sword, Anacharis, Ludwigia and Marsilea Hirsuta (carpet) all look good. I've ordered two more GroBeam lights as I'd like more coverage for the front and the back.

Questions
1. Where should I be keeping the nitrate level for my planted tank?
2. If my nitrate levels are properly maintained do I still have to dose nitrogen?
3. When should I be adding Phosphorus, Potassium and Iron? I follow the instructions on the bottle but I can't really test the Iron density so I dose it half as much as the bottle says.
4. Other than injecting CO2 what else can I do to make my plants look their best?

Thank you for any help or opinions. The more the better and now a couple of pictures:

30 Gallon Planted Tank 20170520 - Image One

• Nada Mucho
• May 20, 2017

IMAG068430 Gallon Planted Tank 20170520 - Image Two

• Nada Mucho
• May 20, 2017
• 6

 

Ahh I can't see the pics and I'm dying to have a look! But I'm sorry I know nothing about planted but it sounds like an amazing set up. EDIT: I went on the web view and it shown me, it looks perfect to me sorry I can't help.

 

Ahh I can't see the pics and I'm dying to have a look! But I'm sorry I know nothing about planted but it sounds like an amazing set up. EDIT: I went on the web view and it shown me, it looks perfect to me sorry I can't help.

Very kind of you to say grantm91. Thank you very much for checking out my tank.

 

Very nice tank you have, love the driftwood I'm gonna tag the Plant Expert Fahn . They have helped me a lot with plants. Good luck with your tank!

 

Very nice tank you have, love the driftwood I'm gonna tag the Plant Expert Fahn . They have helped me a lot with plants. Good luck with your tank!

Thank you very much for your kind words. I really appreciate you tagging an expert as I wouldn't know who to ask. I think my problem is the title for this post. While it's probably the best and most informative post I've ever made the title doesn't really say what I need specifically and that is the reason why it's getting low traffic.

It would be lovely if Fahn or any other expert could offer help and I'm going to change the title in the hopes that I lure in a bit of help. Thanks again!

 

Carpet looks amazing, sword depending on when you put in root tabs and how many I would add another root tab, maybe move it over a touchdown the right to give it a bit more room. The bacopa is a bit leggy, but it seems the new growth is much more compact. I would wait and see on that one.
The crypt and wisteria... can post put a close up on them?

Seachem nitrogen is a mix of nitrogen sources, not just nitrates. Plants prefer the other forms, but will use all. Our API test doesn't differentiate between the different nitrogen forms either
I try to keep my nitrates around 20-40 after dosing... but truthfully with 11 planted tanks I dose most slightly differently. One tank for some reason doesn't like it above 10, another fails below 30... it's all about finding the balance for each tank. I've found that when beginning dosing I like to monitor the tanks nitrates and phosphates for about two weeks. Day 0-wc day 1- pre and post dosing test, day 3 testing, day five test, and a test prior to wc. This way you can see where your levels are at over a two week period and see how the plants respond to what is going on... (i.e. If they are struggling and nitrates are low, you know to try the following week a higher dose, much easier then guesstimating.) I find two weeks to be a good observation time, sometimes less.

Seachem has a dosing schedule on their site... keep in mind it's a general guide, you don't need ALL the products at the same times/amounts.

 

Jocelyn Adelman thank you very, very much for your reply. I was starting to think the post would get lost in the shuffle.

Thank you for your compliment on the Water Clover carpet. I did so much research before choosing plants and that was the only one that could handle low light, low CO2 and also have a low profile. It's been fantastic. I only bought to culture cups (not enough!) split them up and it took off spreading on it's own. Couldn't be happier.

On the Kleiner Bar I really like your idea. Until last weekend I had a Crypo PetchiI next to it and a bit to the front but I didn't like it so I took it out. I've been trying to decide if I should extend the Anacharis further across the back to meet the sword but your idea is much better, Center it between the hardscape and the left side glass, let it mature nicely and it will fill that space perfectly I imagine.

The Bacopa I just bought last weekend and installed at the same time I ripped out the Petchii. If you think that's leggy you should have seen the mess I pulled out. I'm giving them a lot more direct light and the nodes are staying tighter so I have hope.

I've added some pictures of the Crypto and Wisteria at the bottom but it's really hard to see the issue with the Wisteria. Best example is probably the second picture in the center of the Wisteria leaves you may see what I'm talking about.

I have the SeaChem chart marked and I'm running pretty close to their dosing schedule but you've cleared something up for me as far as their Nitrogen supplement. I test my water daily and I log everything I do so that should help me figure out the bump the Nitrogen additive is giving to my measurable Nitrates.

Thank you very much for the thought and time you put in to helping me. Very much appreciated.

Cryptocoryne undulatus and Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis) - Image 1

• Nada Mucho
• May 21, 2017

Cryptocoryne undulatus and Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis) - Image 2

• Nada Mucho
• May 21, 2017

Cryptocoryne undulatus and Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis) - Image 3

• Nada Mucho
• May 21, 2017

Cryptocoryne undulatus and Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis) - Image 4

• Nada Mucho
• May 21, 2017

 

I agree with Jocelyn, the dosing chart will help a lot since you have all the main bottles. I even suggest slightly overdosing to make sure nutrients don't become a limiting factor. I've been overdosing nilocg thrive in my 2.6 gallon, low light low tech for the past couple weeks, and after finally testing nitrates were 40-80 ppm I hadn't intended to overdose that much, but the plants are absolutely thriving and the only algae is the usual few strands of diatoms here and there.

 

I agree with Jocelyn, the dosing chart will help a lot since you have all the main bottles. I even suggest slightly overdosing to make sure nutrients don't become a limiting factor. I've been overdosing nilocg thrive in my 2.6 gallon, low light low tech for the past couple weeks, and after finally testing nitrates were 40-80 ppm I hadn't intended to overdose that much, but the plants are absolutely thriving and the only algae is the usual few strands of diatoms here and there.

-Mak- thank you very much for taking a look at my issue. I have a bit of a problem with algae on the plants to be honest. Bacopa on the other hand is a freaking algae magnet and wiping all those tiny leaves clean is a chore.I've cut back my light cycle to 9 hours and I'm cutting feeding back bit by bit. Also got 4 nerite snails who never seem to be on the plants and 10 amano shrimp who I haven't seen since the day I put them in except for some random campouts under my filter intake.

Anyway I'll play around with the nitrate levels as I sure would like to say, as you did, that my plants are absolutely thriving. That is definitely my goal. Thank you!

 

-Mak- thank you very much for taking a look at my issue. I have a bit of a problem with algae on the plants to be honest. Bacopa on the other hand is a freaking algae magnet and wiping all those tiny leaves clean is a pita. I've cut back my light cycle to 9 hours and I'm cutting feeding back bit by bit. Also got 4 nerite snails who never seem to be on the plants and 10 amano shrimp who I haven't seen since the day I put them in except for some random campouts under my filter intake.

Anyway I'll play around with the nitrate levels as I sure would like to say, as you did, that my plants are absolutely thriving. That is definitely my goal. Thank you!

I don't keep nerites, but I have great experiences with amanos. I got one yesterday for the strands of diatoms I mentioned and he's busy busy busy right now. Are you sure yours are all still there? They are excellent escape artists, and shrimp in general need a bit more specific care. Also I'd suggest lowering light to at most 8 hours, which is actually quite typical for a tank even without algae issues.

Unfortunately in my (limited) experiences I've found that once a tank has algae it's a bit difficult to get rid of. My other tank, a high tech 3 gallon, has endless algae issues. The fast growing plants are doing excellent, the slower growers not so much. I got so fed up that I did a hydrogen peroxide treatment and right afterwards got some amanos. They cleaned everything, in fact cleaned it too well and ran out of algae, and jumped ship. I did give them algae wafers, not enough though I guess. So now the algae is back, worse than before. Partly my fault because I didn't really address the root cause (too much light). So it's actually a surprise that the new tank is doing so well, considering what happened in the first one

 

I don't keep nerites, but I have great experiences with amanos. I got one yesterday for the strands of diatoms I mentioned and he's busy busy busy right now. Are you sure yours are all still there? They are excellent escape artists, and shrimp in general need a bit more specific care. Also I'd suggest lowering light to at most 8 hours, which is actually quite typical for a tank even without algae issues.

Unfortunately in my (limited) experiences I've found that once a tank has algae it's a bit difficult to get rid of. My other tank, a high tech 3 gallon, has endless algae issues. The fast growing plants are doing excellent, the slower growers not so much. I got so fed up that I did a hydrogen peroxide treatment and right afterwards got some amanos. They cleaned everything, in fact cleaned it too well and ran out of algae, and jumped ship. I did give them algae wafers, not enough though I guess. So now the algae is back, worse than before. Partly my fault because I didn't really address the root cause (too much light). So it's actually a surprise that the new tank is doing so well, considering what happened in the first one

I had no idea you could actually have an algae free tank. I hate to lower the light cycle because it reduces my viewing time but I'll drop it in a heartbeat if it makes things better. I just saw one of my shrimp now, he's way bigger than when I got him, but normally I only see one, maybe two a day for a brief time. It could be the same two all the time or all ten rotating but there is no way to know unfortunately. Nothing in the tank is big enough to eat them and I haven't seen any bodies but they are clear so maybe I missed something.

I sure would love an algae free tank if for no other reason than not needing to wipe my leaves clean. I'll drop my cycle by an hour and really try to watch the feeding. It's tough as the Juliis like the algae and shrimp wafers, the barbs like the blood worms, brine shrimp and tubifex worms (they hate flakes) and the Gouramis like mostly flake but will pick off the stuff I feed the barbs when they feel like it.

Normally I try to feed whatever and if it isn't gone in a few minutes I net it up. I think the feeding thing is just going to take some time and experience for me to get it right.

Thank you very much for all of your help and insight!

P.S. (I forgot) I have a clear glass Versa-Top cover and I keep it closed unless I'm feeding or whatever. If they can get out of there I'm going to have to consider guard towers and some border fence.

 

Thank you very much for your kind words. I really appreciate you tagging an expert as I wouldn't know who to ask. I think my problem is the title for this post. While it's probably the best and most informative post I've ever made the title doesn't really say what I need specifically and that is the reason why it's getting low traffic.

It would be lovely if Fahn or any other expert could offer help and I'm going to change the title in the hopes that I lure in a bit of help. Thanks again!

No worries. It is hard to come up with a title sometimes. Let's hope Fahn and other plant experts (I can see some plant experts have already replied) will help you

 

Do you have root tabs at the base of the crypt??? I would add them there as well

So, deficiencies aren't my strongest suit... but here's a go looks to me like you have a few things going on, most noticeable is a nitrogen deficiency and possibly a magnesium deficiency... (would even lean toward phosphates being low, except I'm not seeing any gsa on the leaves so that's debatable)
The nitrogen you are somewhat aware of due to the title of the question... I would start upping that dosage now.
Magnesium... do you know your gH? KH? Are you using any type of gH booster? With super soft water especially it may be necessary to add a gH booster, but either way the magnesium content may not be that high anyway... you can get seachem equilibrium or replenish, or nilocg gH booster (sure there are many others out there as well). Also, is doing the nilong, when you run out of seachem nilo has either an all in one called thrive with higher NP, or a liquid eI based macro/micro (separate bottles) that you can look into.
I think it will be very helpful to keep a close eye on phosphate and nitrate readings and adjust your dosing from there.

 

Do you have root tabs at the base of the crypt??? I would add them there as well

So, deficiencies aren't my strongest suit... but here's a go looks to me like you have a few things going on, most noticeable is a nitrogen deficiency and possibly a magnesium deficiency... (would even lean toward phosphates being low, except I'm not seeing any gsa on the leaves so that's debatable)
The nitrogen you are somewhat aware of due to the title of the question... I would start upping that dosage now.
Magnesium... do you know your gH? KH? Are you using any type of gH booster? With super soft water especially it may be necessary to add a gH booster, but either way the magnesium content may not be that high anyway... you can get seachem equilibrium or replenish, or nilocg gH booster (sure there are many others out there as well). Also, is doing the nilong, when you run out of seachem nilo has either an all in one called thrive with higher NP, or a liquid eI based macro/micro (separate bottles) that you can look into.
I think it will be very helpful to keep a close eye on phosphate and nitrate readings and adjust your dosing from there.

Yep there is a root tab next to the base of every plant or in the center if there is a small group. I've multiple tabs under the Egeria Densas across the back. I don't have a test kit or meter for water hardness, magnesium or phosphates yet so I really can't answer that at the moment. I know API has them I just need to get the order in. Lots of folks talk about the nilocg nutes but it's confusing to me which one to use. I put up a post here on that but didn't get an answer on what to use.

If I could just dose daily (or whatever) from a single solution that would be fantastic. But I don't want to be testing and adjusting constantly... not my style. I know there is some other method who's name escapes me where you overdose everything then change the water out but again... not my style.

The information you've provided has been very helpful and I want to thank you for the time and energy this must take. Cheers!

 

I had no idea you could actually have an algae free tank. I hate to lower the light cycle because it reduces my viewing time but I'll drop it in a heartbeat if it makes things better. I just saw one of my shrimp now, he's way bigger than when I got him, but normally I only see one, maybe two a day for a brief time. It could be the same two all the time or all ten rotating but there is no way to know unfortunately. Nothing in the tank is big enough to eat them and I haven't seen any bodies but they are clear so maybe I missed something.

I sure would love an algae free tank if for no other reason than not needing to wipe my leaves clean. I'll drop my cycle by an hour and really try to watch the feeding. It's tough as the Juliis like the algae and shrimp wafers, the barbs like the blood worms, brine shrimp and tubifex worms (they hate flakes) and the Gouramis like mostly flake but will pick off the stuff I feed the barbs when they feel like it.

Normally I try to feed whatever and if it isn't gone in a few minutes I net it up. I think the feeding thing is just going to take some time and experience for me to get it right.

Thank you very much for all of your help and insight!

P.S. (I forgot) I have a clear glass Versa-Top cover and I keep it closed unless I'm feeding or whatever. If they can get out of their I'm going to have to consider guard towers and some border fence.

Well, algae will always be there, but some tanks (with weekly maintenance) have no clearly visible algae.

Yep there is a root tab next to the base of every plant or in the center if there is a small group. I've multiple tabs under the Egeria Densas across the back. I don't have a test kit or meter for water hardness, magnesium or phosphates yet so I really can't answer that at the moment. I know API has them I just need to get the order in. Lots of folks talk about the nilocg nutes but it's confusing to me which one to use. I put up a post here on that but didn't get an answer on what to use.

If I could just dose daily (or whatever) from a single solution that would be fantastic. But I don't want to be testing and adjusting constantly... not my style. I know there is some other method who's name escapes me where you overdose everything then change the water out but again... not my style.

The information you've provided has been very helpful and I want to thank you for the time and energy this must take. Cheers!

Now that Jocelyn mentioned it I see the magnesium deficiency, specifically on the crypt. The test for this is the KH and GH test, GH will test magnesium and calcium combined (you need both anyways) along with some other stuff that fits under general hardness. My KH and GH out of the tap are both 0, so magnesium deficiency is kind of guaranteed for me. I use nilocg's GH booster.

My main fert is nilocg Thrive. It's an all in one, so it's the only thing I dose besides adding some GH powder with water changes.

The overdose and water change is the EI method (estimative index) developed by Tom Barr. I believe he's one of the few people in the hobby who have actually done research and tests on the stuff he claims. He developed EI back when people where trying to limit nitrates and phosphates in planted tanks to prevent algae, which we now know is not a good idea. The whole point behind EI is no tests, just dose and do a 50% WC at the end of the week. I'd at least look into it a bit, as a lot of all in one ferts such as nilocg Thrive are easily used as EI method ferts. If it's still not your cup of tea seachem will do just fine, albeit with a more hectic dosing schedule.

The Estimative Index of Dosing, or No Need for Test Kits - Aquarium Plants - Barr Report

 

Well, algae will always be there, but some tanks (with weekly maintenance) have no clearly visible algae.


Now that Jocelyn mentioned it I see the magnesium deficiency, specifically on the crypt. The test for this is the KH and GH test, GH will test magnesium and calcium combined (you need both anyways) along with some other stuff that fits under general hardness. My KH and GH out of the tap are both 0, so magnesium deficiency is kind of guaranteed for me. I use nilocg's GH booster.

My main fert is nilocg Thrive. It's an all in one, so it's the only thing I dose besides adding some GH powder with water changes.

The overdose and water change is the EI method (estimative index) developed by Tom Barr. I believe he's one of the few people in the hobby who have actually done research and tests on the stuff he claims. He developed EI back when people where trying to limit nitrates and phosphates in planted tanks to prevent algae, which we now know is not a good idea. The whole point behind EI is no tests, just dose and do a 50% WC at the end of the week. I'd at least look into it a bit, as a lot of all in one ferts such as nilocg Thrive are easily used as EI method ferts. If it's still not your cup of tea seachem will do just fine, albeit with a more hectic dosing schedule.

The Estimative Index of Dosing, or No Need for Test Kits - Aquarium Plants - Barr Report

-Mak- I'm very willing to make change especially if it's to an all in one solution. I just needed someone to get me over the hump and I think, between you and Jocelyn Adelman , you've managed it. I will definitely be ordering the API kits tonight. Once I test my water I'll know which nilocg products are best to order and I will definitely look into the EI method as the "no testing" routine is appealing. Wouldn't want to pay too much on the over dose but the convenience could certainly be worth it.

Thank you, thank you so very much for all of your help. I've really learned a lot today.

 

I love -Mak-

To keep your head spinning I use the eI liquids from nilo on some tanks, thrive on others... both are great ferts and way easier then what I had been doing prior w the seachem line! (That isn't to say seachem is bad, if you have higher phosphates and nigh nitrates during you testing period flourish may the go to!)

 

I love -Mak-

To keep your head spinning I use the eI liquids from nilo on some tanks, thrive on others... both are great ferts and way easier then what I had been doing prior w the seachem line! (That isn't to say seachem is bad, if you have higher phosphates and nigh nitrates during you testing period flourish may the go to!)

I think you like imagining head spinning like a top! Ok so why one and not the other on the liquid ferts? Just trial and error on which works best for what tank?

 

Yes, depending on bioload, tap water, lighting, co2, how heavily you feed and type of food, and the speed at which plants grow, can help determine the ferts you need.
Flourish is a good fert, but low on NP... assumes most of this is coming from feeding and bioload. Some tanks do just fine with it. Realistically it's more of a micro fert with some K.
Others, often with better lighting and faster growing plants, need more to sustain them. This can be done with flourish line as well, dosing seachem NPK separately as well as flourish. Also, it can be done by just dosing thrive.
So many ways to customize dosing it really can make your head spin!

EI dosing attempts to cover all the possible shortages and keep them slightly above what plants need, but has a 50% water change at end of week to "reset" nutrient balance. (Some don't do this large, too long to go into details...)
Nilocg ferts, thrive included, lean more towards eI dosing. (Not completely, but close). I use nilocg eI liquids on most of my tanks, however I have some smaller tanks that in order to simplify I started dosing thrive instead... both do well. (11 tanks)
I enjoyed tweaking my ferts based on the tanks, but I hate dosing with seachem... the measuring amounts in caps drove me crazy!
Next step for me is dry ferts... I was hesitant to start mixing my own, but it allows for the most customization.
I had one tank that didn't abide by any standard rules... drove me crazy. I tracked parameters for a few weeks, tweaked my schedule, and not it receives a wacky fert dosing schedule...but it is thriving. My others responded well to eI liquids or thrive. That being said, I still have one tank that I only dose flourish comp.... doesn't need anything more. I don't want to see it grow faster/better, has low lighting, plants and fish are happy. Just has anubias, moss, and bolbitis. When I dosed thrive I started to get algae, and my nitrates climbed to 80 as my plants weren't using any of the extra nutrients. (My tap has nitrates as well)
Again, it's all about the balance of that particular tank

 

While it's probably the best and most informative post I've ever made the title doesn't really say what I need specifically and that is the reason why it's getting low traffic

Your tank looks awesome. I am just starting in the plant world, so I am of no help. I will watch what and learn from your post though.

BTW - you can edit the title of your post - say add something to the end so people who know it can still find it but still add something that may grab the audience you are looking for.

 

Jocelyn Adelman as you suggested I just moved that sword forward a bit and centered it between the hardscape and the sidewall. It look fantastic and it's going to mature nicely. Thank you for your thoughts... turned out they were spot on. More Cheetos for you.

 

Ok Jocelyn Adelman and -Mak- I received my test kits from Amazon and here are my numbers:

Tap
Phosphates 0.25 ppm
GH 100
KH 50

I didn't know if I should test the tank so I just went ahead and did it.

Tank
Phosphates 2 ppm
GH 140
KH 70

I'm guessing these numbers were important to determine if I need the NilocG GH Booster. Not sure of the range or how Phosphates affect the whole deal so if you can clue me I would appreciate it very much. Thank you!

 

I think the guideline for phosphates is to have a 10:1 ratio of nitrates to phosphates. Your GH is actually medium hard but I'd still get some GH booster, it's not necessarily magnesium that's raising the GH.

 

I think the guideline for phosphates is to have a 10:1 ratio of nitrates to phosphates. Your GH is actually medium hard but I'd still get some GH booster, it's not necessarily magnesium that's raising the GH.

Thank you Ms -Mak- for the information. I'm onto EI research and trying to select the right NilocG ferts to use. If you don't mind another question if I'm looking at something like this:

EI based NPK + CSM+B with GH booster

Are the nutes all mixed together in one bag or are they separate bags for each element?

 

Sorry I don't know the answer to that one, I haven't mixed dry ferts before. The description lists the stuff you get as

-2lb KNO3

-1/2lb KH2PO4

-1lb GH booster

-1/2lb CSM+B

so probably each of those are in its own bag?

They also have a dosing instructions page, that'll probably help a lot.

 

Sorry I don't know the answer to that one, I haven't mixed dry ferts before. The description lists the stuff you get as

-2lb KNO3

-1/2lb KH2PO4

-1lb GH booster

-1/2lb CSM+B

so probably each of those are in its own bag?

They also have a dosing instructions page, that'll probably help a lot.

Thanks yes that's what I was wondering. I didn't know if that list was individual bags or the mixed contents of a single bag. I'll probably go with the Thrive and some GH Booster as y'all suggested. The dosing on Thrive seems to be 1 pump per 10 gallons 3x a week. I don't know if that's considered EI which requires the 50% water change but I do that anyway so I think it will be fine.

I really do appreciate all your help. Thank you very much.

 

Thanks yes that's what I was wondering. I didn't know if that list was individual bags or the mixed contents of a single bag. I'll probably go with the Thrive and some GH Booster as y'all suggested. The dosing on Thrive seems to be 1 pump per 10 gallons 3x a week. I don't know if that's considered EI which requires the 50% water change but I do that anyway so I think it will be fine.

I really do appreciate all your help. Thank you very much.

Yup! My bottle says 3 pumps for a high light tank and 1-2 for a low light tank.

 

I would start the thrive on twice a week, then increase if you need too. Going to be a big bump from the ferts you are dosing now.
I aI'm to keep my phosphates between 1-2, nitrates 20-40.

For the kH and gH, did you use the API test? How many drops of each?

 

I would start the thrive on twice a week, then increase if you need too. Going to be a big bump from the ferts you are dosing now.
I aI'm to keep my phosphates between 1-2, nitrates 20-40.

For the kH and gH, did you use the API test? How many drops of each?

Jocelyn Adelman thank you again for replying and providing such vital help. I'm learning... I promise.

I used API test for gh, kh and phosphates.

Tap
Phosphates 0.25 ppm
100
50

Tank
Phosphates 2 ppm
GH 140
KH 70

I'm not sure about how many drops as I used the kit instructions to convert it. I think tap was 3 drops for kH and 6 for gH and tank was like 5 kH and 8 gH.

I think I understand that gH booster will handle bringing up the gH and kH plus some other elements? What about phosphates are are those also raised by the gH booster?

 

GH won't affect KH, GH booster (at least, the nilocg one) raises calcium, magnesium, and potassium, I think, those are the 3 ingredients.

 

So, you want your kH to be a bare minimum of four, five and up to be safe... odd that your tank was higher then your tap... you sure that's correct???
I would look into seachem alkaline buffer to raise your kH some, others here use crushed coral in their filters, it didn't work well for me. I now use alkaline buffer with each water change (add the amount to dose the new water)... super easy.
GH and kH are totally separate beasts...