Nitrites still at 0, Help!

oliviacislo
  • #1
Hi there,

I am new to the aquarium hobby and this is my first time cycling a tank so I am looking for advice. I've watched a lot of videos and read articles on the subject of cycling but some info is inconsistent.

My setup:
10 Gallon Cube AIO Nano Tank. Sponge Filters and Bio Balls and a filter sock. The heater is set to 78-79 degrees.
* This aquarium is brand new, I have no established media to add to the tank.

Day 1
Unboxed tank and set up filter media. Added sand, driftwood, rocks, and fake plants.
Treated my water with Prime prior to adding to the tank.
Filled tank and added 1 capful of Stability as bottle directed.

Day 2
Test results:
  • Ph: 7.6
  • Ammonia: 1.0
  • Nitrite: 0
  • Nitrate: 0 - 5.0
Added 1/2 Capful of Stability as bottle directed. Added small pinch of fish food.

Day 3
Added 1/2 Capful of Stability

Day 4
  • Water Test
    • Ph: 7.6
    • Ammonia: 1.0
    • Nitrite: 0
    • Nitrate: 5.0
Day 5
+ 1/2 capful of stability

Day 6
+1/2 capful of stability
+ small pinch of food

Day 7
+ 1/2 capful of stability

Day 8
Water Test:
  • Ph: 7.6
  • Ammonia: 0.5 (ammonia has started to drop)
  • Nitrite: 0
  • Nitrate: 5.0
1-gallon water change to top off the tank. Removed water from the tank without disturbing the substrate and didn't clean any algae off the sides. Added 1 mL prime to water before adding to the tank, added 1 capful stability back in.

Today is Day 8 and I just performed the above tasks. I also tested my tap water for nitrate and they are virtually 0.

I am wondering, am I on the right track? Looks like ammonia is going down, Nitrites so far have not presented themselves but I have nitrates present. Should I continue adding stability after today? Or leave it to run and see if nitrites appear.

Thanks so much for your help!
 
mattgirl
  • #2
You are still very early in the cycling process. Often it takes up to 3 weeks or longer before nitrites show up. If you are using fish food as your ammonia source you need to add a pinch of it daily. You want a constant ammonia source in there to feed the bacteria. It takes a while for the food to decompose and form ammonia. By feeding daily there will always be some in there producing ammonia.

I don't think Stability will help at this point so no need to continue adding it.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
Okay, thank you! That is what I figured but wanted to make sure I didn't miss something. And I was under the impression that Stability was/is Bacteria? That's why I followed the bottled directions. But you're saying I need to add ammonia, not Stability. For some reason, I thought that Stability was a substitute/replacement for ammonia.
 
mattgirl
  • #6
Okay, thank you! That is what I figured but wanted to make sure I didn't miss something. And I was under the impression that Stability was/is Bacteria? That's why I followed the bottled directions. But you're saying I need to add ammonia, not Stability. For some reason, I thought that Stability was a substitute/replacement for ammonia.
Stability is sold as bacteria in a bottle. The bacteria has to be fed. Its food is ammonia. Some folks seem to have some success using stability but from all I've read it doesn't contain the actual bacteria we are trying to grow in our tanks. I am convinced that it is nothing but a band-aid. There are a couple of brands of bottled bacteria that do contain the right bacteria. Those 2 are Tetra Safe Start Plus and Dr. Tim's One and Only.

Even when using one of them you still need an ammonia source. I know it doesn't say anything about that on the bottle. I have to assume the reason it doesn't is because they assume there will be fish in the tank supplying the ammonia. When doing a fishless cycle though you must add some form of ammonia. Right now the fish food you are adding is decomposing and as it does it supplies the necessary ammonia.
So can I switch from fish food to Dr. Tim's? Do I need to start over with stability, etc. or can I just start adding the Dr. Tim's now?
Yes, you can simply switch from adding fish food over to adding Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride. When you get it add enough to get the ammonia level up to 2ppm.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
Stability is sold as bacteria in a bottle. The bacteria has to be fed. Its food is ammonia. Some folks seem to have some success using stability but from all I've read it doesn't contain the actual bacteria we are trying to grow in our tanks. I am convinced that it is nothing but a band-aid. There are a couple of brands of bottled bacteria that do contain the right bacteria. Those 2 are Tetra Safe Start Plus and Dr. Tim's One and Only.

Even when using one of them you still need an ammonia source. I know it doesn't say anything about that on the bottle. I have to assume the reason it doesn't is because they assume there will be fish in the tank supplying the ammonia. When doing a fishless cycle though you must add some form of ammonia. Right now the fish food you are adding is decomposing and as it does it supplies the necessary ammonia.

Thank you for the detailed response. I really am trying to do things the right way so I appreciate your insight. What would you recommend I do from this point moving forward? Continue using fish food as my ammonia source or should I purchase a product like DrTim's Aquatics Ammonium chloride to speed up the process?
 
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mattgirl
  • #8
Thank you for the detailed response. I really am trying to do things the right way so I appreciate your insight. What would you recommend I do from this point moving forward? Continue using fish food as my ammonia source or should I purchase a product like DrTim's Aquatics Ammonium chloride to speed up the process?
Either should work but using the liquid ammonia is a much cleaner source of ammonia and it is easier to get the level where it needs to be.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
Either should work but using the liquid ammonia is a much cleaner source of ammonia and it is easier to get the level where it needs to be.

Ok, I will go ahead and purchase some. Thanks so much. Do I need to add in any more bacteria in the form of stability or something else? Or leave it.
 
fishnovice33
  • #10
So can I switch from fish food to Dr. Tim's? Do I need to start over with stability, etc. or can I just start adding the Dr. Tim's now?

Yep, go with the liquid Ammonia not fish food. Fish food isn’t the greatest method and it takes much longer (and is messier). Don’t go over 5ppm. You’re at a perfect spot to start adding it (several days after starting). Continually add to keep feeding the bacteria cycle. I use live plants to help me so I’m not sure of the time frame for you.

Iv’e found Stability to help things along but it’s definitely not a substitute for ammonia. Stability supports the bacteria in the tank/filter than consumes the ammonia. I use both.

Start reducing ammonia a little as Nitrites increase. Now is when water changes are important, don’t let the Ni get too high (over 5 ppm).

After 2-3 weeks Nirtates will show up. Keep dosing until you start to notice 0 ammonia and 0 Ni, with a steady rise in Na. It will fluctuate so make sure it’s steady like this for a fewdays.

At this point, and the goal, the tank has been established to the point of being able to take care of any ammonia and Ni in 24 hours. You can test if you want with a large dose of Am, then test the next day. If your tank handles it you’re ready. Be aware though this test will boost your Na so be sure to do a big water change. Or skip the test if you’re confident.

Don’t clean the filter during this process. And add fish slowly. Live plants will help, and stability does help a bit IMO.

With live plants and stability, and canister filter I can usually complete the cycle in 3-4 weeks. Which is a bit fast and subjective to water source. It could take 5-6 weeks. Just keep testing and be patient, it’ll happen.

Kudos on the fish less cycle. It takes more time but it’s safer for fish. The ammonia posted previously is what I use as well. I love ammonia to start up tanks. You can find a single bottle of it on marine depot for like $3.50(?). Cheap and very effective.
 
mattgirl
  • #11
Ok, I will go ahead and purchase some. Thanks so much. Do I need to add in any more bacteria in the form of stability or something else? Or leave it.
Personally I've never used any bottled bacteria but if I was going to do so it would be Tetra Safe Start. Bottled bacteria really isn't necessary but it has sped the cycling process up for some folks.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
Yep, go with the liquid Ammonia not fish food. Fish food isn’t the greatest method and it takes much longer (and is messier). Don’t go over 5ppm. You’re at a perfect spot to start adding it (several days after starting). Continually add to keep feeding the bacteria cycle. I use live plants to help me so I’m not sure of the time frame for you.

Iv’e found Stability to help things along but it’s definitely not a substitute for ammonia. Stability supports the bacteria in the tank/filter than consumes the ammonia. I use both.

Start reducing ammonia a little as Nitrites increase. Now is when water changes are important, don’t let the Ni get too high (over 5 ppm).

After 2-3 weeks Nirtates will show up. Keep dosing until you start to notice 0 ammonia and 0 Ni, with a steady rise in Na. It will fluctuate so make sure it’s steady like this for a fewdays.

At this point, and the goal, the tank has been established to the point of being able to take care of any ammonia and Ni in 24 hours. You can test if you want with a large dose of Am, then test the next day. If your tank handles it you’re ready. Be aware though this test will boost your Na so be sure to do a big water change. Or skip the test if you’re confident.

Don’t clean the filter during this process. And add fish slowly. Live plants will help, and stability does help a bit IMO.

With live plants and stability, and canister filter I can usually complete the cycle in 3-4 weeks. Which is a bit fast and subjective to water source. It could take 5-6 weeks. Just keep testing and be patient, it’ll happen.

Kudos on the fish less cycle. It takes more time but it’s safer for fish. The ammonia posted previously is what I use as well. I love ammonia to start up tanks. You can find a single bottle of it on marine depot for like $3.50(?). Cheap and very effective.


Thank you!! I just purchased the Dr. Tim's on Amazon Prime so hopefully it will be here in the next day or so and I can start. REALLY GLAD I finally know what I'm doing haha
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #13
Personally I've never used any bottled bacteria but if I was going to do so it would be Tetra Safe Start. Bottled bacteria really isn't necessary but it has sped the cycling process up for some folks.

Awesome, thanks so much. I will post an update here once I get started with the Dr. Tim's
 
Nickguy5467
  • #14
So can I switch from fish food to Dr. Tim's? Do I need to start over with stability, etc. or can I just start adding the Dr. Tim's now?
dont know . i never needed to use stability or anything of the like for cycle. ditch the sability? not sure why you need to stablize a tank with no fish in it
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #15
dont know . i never needed to use stability or anything of the like for cycle. ditch the sability? not sure why you need to stablize a tank with no fish in it

I don't know either. I saw it in a few youtube videos. People using it to supplement their fishless cycle.
 
fishnovice33
  • #16
Whether you use Stability (or any bottled bacteria) or not, the cycle will happen. So if it is not worth the cost it is not necessary. A lot of people use Stability to help speed things up when they have fish but their tank isn’t cycled fully. Some have success others don’t.

A lot of things come into consideration on fast a tank cycles. Mainly water source. Personally, I have found Stability to speed the process in multiple tanks but I also know people who do not use it and have great tanks.

My water literally might as well come out of the faucet in rock from so perhaps that means something. I was able to fully cycle a tank in 10 days with stability. Of course to this day I have not been able to do it again despite several tanks having the same water source. I still have no clue how this was achieved.

Point is, it works for some, not for others, and some people use it and don’t know. I’ve tried it without and most of the time, the cycle has taken longer. I’ve never had a tank without it it do better. I’ve had tanks without it do the same. And I’ve had tanks that have done better with it. Could this be other factors? Perhaps. Really hard to narrow down all variables. But I think it’s general consensus it won’t hurt.

It’s really trial and error (dialing) more than anything to see if it’ll help you.
 
mattgirl
  • #17
Whether you use Stability (or any bottled bacteria) or not, the cycle will happen. So if it is not worth the cost it is not necessary. A lot of people use Stability to help speed things up when they have fish but their tank isn’t cycled fully. Some have success others don’t.

A lot of things come into consideration on fast a tank cycles. Mainly water source. Personally, I have found Stability to speed the process in multiple tanks but I also know people who do not use it and have great tanks.

My water literally might as well come out of the faucet in rock from so perhaps that means something. I was able to fully cycle a tank in 10 days with stability. Of course to this day I have not been able to do it again despite several tanks having the same water source. I still have no clue how this was achieved.

Point is, it works for some, not for others, and some people use it and don’t know. I’ve tried it without and most of the time, the cycle has taken longer. I’ve never had a tank without it it do better. I’ve had tanks without it do the same. And I’ve had tanks that have done better with it. Could this be other factors? Perhaps. Really hard to narrow down all variables. But I think it’s general consensus it won’t hurt.

It’s really trial and error (dialing) more than anything to see if it’ll help you.
This pretty well sums it up. It helps some folks and it won't hurt anything (but your wallet)
 
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oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #18
Whether you use Stability (or any bottled bacteria) or not, the cycle will happen. So if it is not worth the cost it is not necessary. A lot of people use Stability to help speed things up when they have fish but their tank isn’t cycled fully. Some have success others don’t.

A lot of things come into consideration on fast a tank cycles. Mainly water source. Personally, I have found Stability to speed the process in multiple tanks but I also know people who do not use it and have great tanks.

My water literally might as well come out of the faucet in rock from so perhaps that means something. I was able to fully cycle a tank in 10 days with stability. Of course to this day I have not been able to do it again despite several tanks having the same water source. I still have no clue how this was achieved.

Point is, it works for some, not for others, and some people use it and don’t know. I’ve tried it without and most of the time, the cycle has taken longer. I’ve never had a tank without it it do better. I’ve had tanks without it do the same. And I’ve had tanks that have done better with it. Could this be other factors? Perhaps. Really hard to narrow down all variables. But I think it’s general consensus it won’t hurt.

It’s really trial and error (dialing) more than anything to see if it’ll help you.

Yeah, that makes sense. Planning to move forward with the liquid ammonia. I guess I'm just wondering what the point of stability is now? Lol. If I were to add it, when would I even use it in conjunction with Dr. Tim's product, if at all? Since I've already added it for a full week is it in my tank for good?
 
fishnovice33
  • #19
Yeah, that makes sense. Planning to move forward with the liquid ammonia. I guess I'm just wondering what the point of stability is now? Lol. If I were to add it, when would I even use it in conjunction with Dr. Tim's product, if at all? Since I've already added it for a full week is it in my tank for good?

I don’t think there is enough bacteria in your tank from the lack of ammonia. I’d start adding it after a few days to a week of dosing Ammonia and keep dosing until you seen a few days of Ni. After that I’d stop and lighten up quite a bit on Am and let the tank cycle. Again in my experience, it helps, so I’d use it.

Keep in mind stability is ‘spore’ bacteria vs. live. As previously mentioned in this thread, it’s not the best bacteria to use. There is a really good thread on reef 2 reef forum called ‘bacteria in a bottle myor fact’, you can google that for a link. It basically confirms some bacteria in a bottle is beneficial. They did not test Stability.

I’m setting up my 5th tank up now and plan to use FritzZyme 700. Which is live bacteria and needs to be refrigerated. It’s shipped with an ice pack. This will without a doubt cycle your tank much faster based on the studies from the link. But I have not used it personally, yet.

But as I mentioned earlier, your tank will cycle regardless. It’s a matter of time. Stability has always helped me so I can only speak from experience and that would be to use it to speed things up.

If I were you I’d just use Stability if you have some left and wait a bit longer. If not, and you want to boost the cycle and money isn’t an issue I’d buy some live bacteria like I posted.

If you don’t have any Stability left and you don’t mind waiting and money is a factor, waiting for it to cycle naturally is perfectly fine.

Whatever you decide if you update your progress and parameter readings as you go along in a thread/this thread I can offer my 2 cents.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #20
I don’t think there is enough bacteria in your tank from the lack of ammonia. I’d start adding it after a few days to a week of dosing Ammonia and keep dosing until you seen a few days of Ni. After that I’d stop and lighten up quite a bit on Am and let the tank cycle. Again in my experience, it helps, so I’d use it.

Keep in mind stability is ‘spore’ bacteria vs. live. As previously mentioned in this thread, it’s not the best bacteria to use. There is a really good thread on reef 2 reef forum called ‘bacteria in a bottle myor fact’, you can google that for a link. It basically confirms some bacteria in a bottle is beneficial. They did not test Stability.

I’m setting up my 5th tank up now and plan to use FritzZyme 700. Which is live bacteria and needs to be refrigerated. It’s shipped with an ice pack. This will without a doubt cycle your tank much faster based on the studies from the link. But I have not used it personally, yet.

But as I mentioned earlier, your tank will cycle regardless. It’s a matter of time. Stability has always helped me so I can only speak from experience and that would be to use it to speed things up.

If I were you I’d just use Stability if you have some left and wait a bit longer. If not, and you want to boost the cycle and money isn’t an issue I’d buy some live bacteria like I posted.

If you don’t have any Stability left and you don’t mind waiting and money is a factor, waiting for it to cycle naturally is perfectly fine.

Whatever you decide if you update your progress and parameter readings as you go along in a thread/this thread I can offer my 2 cents.

Will do, thank you. I'm just waiting on the Dr. Tim's to get here and I will basically be starting over. I will post test results here.
 
mattgirl
  • #21
Will do, thank you. I'm just waiting on the Dr. Tim's to get here and I will basically be starting over. I will post test results here.
You really won't be starting over. You will just be switching from using fish food as your ammonia source over to liquid ammonia. All the bacteria you have already grown will still be in there.

I notice you have been seeing some nitrates. Have you run the nitrate test on your source water to make sure the nitrates you are seeing are from the cycling process and not from the source water.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #22
You really won't be starting over. You will just be switching from using fish food as your ammonia source over to liquid ammonia. All the bacteria you have already grown will still be in there.

I notice you have been seeing some nitrates. Have you run the nitrate test on your source water to make sure the nitrates you are seeing are from the cycling process and not from the source water.

I did Nitrate test yesterday. Nitrates in tap water were 0.
 
mattgirl
  • #23
I did Nitrate test yesterday. Nitrates in tap water were 0.
That's good. Seeing nitrates in the tank and none in the source water tells us that you have both ammonia and nitrite eating bacteria in this tank so you are well on your way to a cycled tank. It is just going to take time and patience to finish it up.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #24
That's good. Seeing nitrates in the tank and none in the source water tells us that you have both ammonia and nitrite eating bacteria in this tank so you are well on your way to a cycled tank. It is just going to take time and patience to finish it up.

Awesome, some good news!
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #25
mattgirl fishnovice33

Dr. Tim's just arrived!! Tested water before adding any to see where I'm at, results:

Ammonia: 0.5
Nitrite: Still 0

Going to add drops per bottle instructions to bring ammonia levels up to 2 ppm. Then I will retest in about an hour for ammonia to make sure it's all good/at the right level. Then I am planning to check every day until we see it dropping/the appearance of nitrites. I will continue dosing about half the amounts of ammonia to continue feeding bacteria and make sure the tank can process it. Sound like a plan?
 
mattgirl
  • #26
mattgirl fishnovice33

Dr. Tim's just arrived!! Tested water before adding any to see where I'm at, results:

Ammonia: 0.5
Nitrite: Still 0

Going to add drops per bottle instructions to bring ammonia levels up to 2 ppm. Then I will retest in about an hour for ammonia to make sure it's all good/at the right level. Then I am planning to check every day until we see it dropping/the appearance of nitrites. I will continue dosing about half the amounts of ammonia to continue feeding bacteria and make sure the tank can process it. Sound like a plan?
Some folks have mentioned when they followed the instructions on the bottle and added the amount recommended it raised the ammonia level much higher than it should. I would start with just adding half the recommended amount to start with and go from there. Other than that it looks like you have a good plan.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #27
Some folks have mentioned when they followed the instructions on the bottle and added the amount recommended it raised the ammonia level much higher than it should. I would start with just adding half the recommended amount to start with and go from there. Other than that it looks like you have a good plan.

Oops. Too late. I added the recommended dosage. What should I do if it's above 5?
 
mattgirl
  • #28
Oops. Too late. I added the recommended dosage. What should I do if it's above 5?
A water change will get it back down where it needs to be. It is possible that you are fine though so just let your test results be your guide.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #29
A water change will get it back down where it needs to be. It is possible that you are fine though so just let your test results be your guide.

Ok cool. Will report back after the test in about 40 minutes.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #30
mattgirl

Test results. Looks like 4.0 or higher. Should I water change? Or leave it.
 

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oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #31
mattgirl

Test results. Looks like 4.0 or higher. Should I water change? Or leave it.

I went ahead and did a 2-gallon water change (added prime to the water before adding to tank) just to be on the safe side. My tank is only 10 gallons so I think 2ppm ammonia is more appropriate for the size based on what I've read
 
fishnovice33
  • #32
Yea that test is perfectly fine but so is lowering it a bit with a water change, no issues there. 5 is maximum, ideal is 2-3 but some variation of that is fine. Don’t go under 2 (until Ni shows up) or over 5 imo.

As stated you’re not really starting over, I just doubted you have much, if any at all, bacteria from decomposing fish food over the 5-7 days you reported. So you’re in a good spot.

And as already mentioned, I think Dr. Tim’s dose is like 4 drops (?) per gallon and a lot of people get the desired range with half that.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #33
Yea that test is perfectly fine but so is lowering it a bit with a water change, no issues there. 5 is maximum, ideal is 2-3 but some variation of that is fine. Don’t go under 2 (until Ni shows up) or over 5 imo.

As stated you’re not really starting over, I just doubted you have much, if any at all, bacteria from decomposing fish food over the 5-7 days you reported. So you’re in a good spot.

And as already mentioned, I think Dr. Tim’s dose is like 4 drops (?) per gallon and a lot of people get the desired range with half that.

Ok, thank you. Yeah, I added 40 drops (4 drops per gallon). I am going to retest in the morning now that I've performed the water change. So if my ammonia is around 2-3 tomorrow, should I add more? Or just test daily and only bring it up if it drops to like 1.

Once Ni shows up, do I stop adding?

^ I know you've given great instructions thus far just want to be crystal clear.
 
fishnovice33
  • #34
Ok, thank you. Yeah, I added 40 drops (4 drops per gallon). I am going to retest in the morning now that I've performed the water change. So if my ammonia is around 2-3 tomorrow, should I add more? Or just test daily and only bring it up if it drops to like 1.

Once Ni shows up, do I stop adding?

^ I know you've given great instructions thus far just want to be crystal clear.

I’d keep the Amonnia at around 2-3 ppm. Once Ni comes along lower to 1ppm but keep feeding/dosing it. Once you start noticing an incline in Na it should mean whenever you add Am, it should be heading towards being at 0 ppm in 24 hours. I usually add bottled bacteria the next day or later in the day after dosing Am. Subjective.

Once you’re able to get 0 ppm Am and Ni for 3-4 days in a row, within 24 hours, after adding 1ppm Am, the tank should be cycled at that point.

You can go back to a 3-5 ppm Am dose at that point to test it out. After 24 hours (ish) your tank should be able to eliminate all Am and Ni. If at that point if there is still traces of Am, go back to 1ppm Am and feeding the bacteria for another week.

At some point Ammonia won’t matter because you’ll have enough bacteria to consume it in 24 hourish time.

5 ppm is high and unless you severely slack in cleaning your tank, uncycled/restart (or have a overstocked wreck of a tank), the tank will most likely never produce 5 ppm. So I like my tanks to be able to handle that. It is a bit high though. So maybe try 3 for the test?

Also as I noted, do water changes when Am or Ni get near 5, and keep them both around 2-3 ideally throughout the process, until obviously, Na starts showing up and those things start dwindling. At this time you’ll just be dosing to see if your tank clears the Am and Ni by the next day, for several days in a row.

As a reminder as I stated earlier if you do the 3-5 ppm Am dose to test your tanks ability, make sure you do a water change and wait a day before adding fish as this will spike your Na.

Keep in mind all these variables are subjective. Everyone does things different and I have medium to high stocks of live plants that affect all of Am, Ni and Na so I tried to lay it out in basic sense but you may have to adjust accordingly.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #35
Great, thanks so much! I really appreciate you laying it out like this - really helps.

So tomorrow, assuming my Ammonia is around 2-3. I should dose like 20 drops? (today I did 40)

and then when I need to lower to 1ppm - dose 10 drops?
 
fishnovice33
  • #36
Great, thanks so much! I really appreciate you laying it out like this - really helps.

So tomorrow, assuming my Ammonia is around 2-3. I should dose like 20 drops? (today I did 40)

and then when I need to lower to 1ppm - dose 10 drops?

No, if your Am is still 2-3 tomorrow leave it be. You want to maintain 2-3. You will just have to dose/water change and retest if it deviates from 2-3. Too high, water change, too low add more and test again.

Same 1 ppm. Just maintain it. I did not mean to infer adding 2-3 ppm/1 ppm a day, I meant to maintain those levels whether that be water changing (too high) and/or dosing.

I’ll keep going maintaining 2-3 Am as my Ni increases. If I am hitting 5 Ni, I lower it with a water change and then start the 1ppm ammonia and maintain Ni at 2-3 until Na shows up.

Na shows up keep maintaining 1 Am everyday and maintain 2-3 Ni until eventually the next morning or so, for several days in a row (after it reads zero add 1 Am to see if it clears it by next day, repeat for 3-4 days) Am and Ni goes to 0. Then do your 3 ppm Am test. Tank should be able to clear by then. Water change, add Prime, wait a day, fish!

Process takes a while so don’t expect this to happen in a week, though it is entirely possible.
 
oliviacislo
  • Thread Starter
  • #37
No, if your Am is still 2-3 tomorrow leave it be. You want to maintain 2-3. You will just have to dose/water change and retest if it deviates from 2-3. Too high, water change, too low add more and test again.

Same 1 ppm. Just maintain it. I did not mean to infer adding 2-3 ppm/1 ppm a day, I meant to maintain those levels whether that be water changing (too high) and/or dosing.

I’ll keep going maintaining 2-3 Am as my Ni increases. If I am hitting 5 Ni, I lower it with a water change and then start the 1ppm ammonia and maintain Ni at 2-3 until Na shows up.

Na shows up keep maintaining 1 Am everyday and maintain 2-3 Ni until eventually the next morning or so, for several days in a row (after it reads zero add 1 Am to see if it clears it by next day, repeat for 3-4 days) Am and Ni goes to 0. Then do your 3 ppm Am test. Tank should be able to clear by then. Water change, add Prime, wait a day, fish!

Process takes a while so don’t expect this to happen in a week, though it is entirely possible.

Got it got it. No, your explanation was good. I was just confused by some other posts I've read that say to continue dosing ammonia to maintain, but I understand now you only need to dose if it fluctuates from what you're trying to maintain.

Thanks so much again both of you. I will post test results in the AM. Have a great evening
 
Badgerfan338
  • #38
Just a question, once your tank can handle like 5ppm ammonia, wouldn’t you want to make it stronger by dosing 6-7 ppm ammonia, so you can overstock a little more then you could have when dosing 3-4?
 
mattgirl
  • #39
Just a question, once your tank can handle like 5ppm ammonia, wouldn’t you want to make it stronger by dosing 6-7 ppm ammonia, so you can overstock a little more then you could have when dosing 3-4?
That might be the case if this was a huge tank but it is just 10 gallons. I don't think anyone could/would add enough fish to a tank this size to produce anywhere near that much ammonia so no need to try to grow that much bacteria.
 
Badgerfan338
  • #40
Okay, I was just wondering
 

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