Nitrite Spike Assistance

Don't normally post questions here, but 2 nights our planted/fully cycled and established 36 gallon tank experienced filter failure. I was forced to remove all media to get to the components and tried my best to keep the bb stones in tank water while fixing the filter. I also made sure to use BioBoost to help bb after performing the water change.

All seemed well until I noticed fish panting in the tank the next morning - did a water test and unfortunately seem to be experiencing a nitrite spike - poss death of the bb.

Most current levels:
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0.50 - 0.75
Nitrates: 5-7
Temp: 79
pH: 7.5

I have performed 3X 30% waterchanges (2 yesterday and 1 so far today) and have been utilizing Prime to try and lower the nitrite levels; it will temporarily go to 0.25ppm but then return to 0.50-0.75 after 2 hours or so. Tank/substrate have been thoroughly cleaned and all plants were recently trimmed, so no dead debris.

My question is that should I continue these water changes and how often? Do I need to increase them to more than once-twice a day? Should I increased the Prime treatments?

I have a beautiful pair of turquoise fish that I am desperately trying to keep alive - they seem the most affected with panting, otherwise are still eating.

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

 

I actually had a similar issue recently on my 10g. I had a random or so I thought random nitrite spike. I just kept testing and doing water changes as needed. (Which was everyday for about a week). It started out at around 2ppm. So I did a 50% WC. tested the next day, about 1ppm still so I did another WC, this time 75%. Then the next day, tested. And so on. Eventually after like 5 days I was able to get it stable. You'll want to use prime if you have it.

 

I actually had a similar issue recently on my 10g. I had a random or so I thought random nitrite spike. I just kept testing and doing water changes as needed. (Which was everyday for about a week). It started out at around 2ppm. So I did a 50% WC. tested the next day, about 1ppm still so I did another WC, this time 75%. Then the next day, tested. And so on. Eventually after like 5 days I was able to get it stable. You'll want to use prime if you have it.

Should I do a larger volume WC tonight? Did a 30% change this morning and had it go back to a 0.50ppm but then spike right back to 0.75. I am almost about ready to do a 50-75% WC, but if the BB is trying to re-establish, then I don't want to be taking out too much. Prime is definitely my go to and have been treating for the entire tank volume with each WC, but wonder if I should use more to avoid nitrite toxicity in the Turquoise fish. Its so frustrating because I have never had this stubborn of a trite spike before...normally 1-2 WC balances it out for me.

 

Should I do a larger volume WC tonight? Did a 30% change this morning and had it go back to a 0.50ppm but then spike right back to 0.75. I am almost about ready to do a 50-75% WC, but if the BB is trying to re-establish, then I don't want to be taking out too much. Prime is definitely my go to and have been treating for the entire tank volume with each WC, but wonder if I should use more to avoid nitrite toxicity in the Turquoise fish. Its so frustrating because I have never had this stubborn of a trite spike before...normally 1-2 WC balances it out for me.

I would just keep doing your water changes. if you have .50 or .75ppm, I'd do a 50 or 75% wc to cut the nitrites in half or even down to a quarter. You definitely want to try and get it low as possible, ideally 0ppm. Even the smallest amounts can get into the fishes blood stream and corrupt oxygen supply.

 

Keep Nitrites and Ammonia under 1ppm for Prime to protect the fish. Mike1995 is right with the bigger water changes when levels are high.

 

What kind of test kit are you using? The API Master Test Kit is widely used, but that kit doesn't have the test readings you you're giving.

You said the tank is cycled, but it's probably more accurate to say is "was" cycled. Something broke the cycle, which happens. Did you recently do a big clean on the tank? Vacuum substrate, clean glass, clean decorations, all at the same time? Have you recently used any medication, such as an antibiotic?

There's also the issue of bottled bacteria making test results go haywire. I never touch the stuff. I'm not saying there's not a problem. The fish's symptoms seem to be consistent with a cycle issue, and if you have zero ammonia and a nitrite spike, that would indicate what is called a "mini cycle," which usually works itself out in a few days. But you still have to do lots of water changes.

I'd recommend backing off on feeding while you sort this out. Ammonia production is more a result of how much food you put into the tank than what kind of fish or how big. Feeding less will help you battle the toxins.

 

Prime at 2 drops per gallon every day while you get this sorted will keep the ammonia from killing the fish. That's what I would do.

 

What kind of test kit are you using? The API Master Test Kit is widely used, but that kit doesn't have the test readings you you're giving.

You said the tank is cycled, but it's probably more accurate to say is "was" cycled. Something broke the cycle, which happens. Did you recently do a big clean on the tank? Vacuum substrate, clean glass, clean decorations, all at the same time? Have you recently used any medication, such as an antibiotic?

There's also the issue of bottled bacteria making test results go haywire. I never touch the stuff. I'm not saying there's not a problem. The fish's symptoms seem to be consistent with a cycle issue, and if you have zero ammonia and a nitrite spike, that would indicate what is called a "mini cycle," which usually works itself out in a few days. But you still have to do lots of water changes.

I'd recommend backing off on feeding while you sort this out. Ammonia production is more a result of how much food you put into the tank than what kind of fish or how big. Feeding less will help you battle the toxins.

Using your standard API master kit - ranges are not solidly in one level range, but appearing between two; such as .50 and .75

I am thinking it was taking the filter apart after the failure disturbed or even killed the BB in the filter media. Unfortunately I had just performed a thorough substrate and routine cleaning and I think all together just trashed the tank's established cycle. I have never experienced such a stubborn "mini-cycle" if this is one...


As of my 65% WC, my nitrite levels are only down to a 0.25ppm....better than 0.5-0.75 I know, however some fish are still panting so I am still alarmed. I have a stunning male turquoise fish that I will be so upset to lose. Fingers crossed that's not the case, but the poor guy is one of the panters.

I definitely cut feeding to minimal if any. Fish may not like it, but can't be risking anymore waste.

 

What type of substrate do you have?, if you thoroughly cleaned a densely settled substrate you could have had gases under it from decomposed food and waste that was trapped and then released into the column. This would create a nitrite spike as well....juss sayin.

 

There's also the issue of bottled bacteria making test results go haywire.

Does this really happen?