Nitrates and nitrites through the roof!

Today’s update!
Ammonia: .25 ppm or less but not at 0
Nitrite: 5.0 ppm
Nitrate: 160ppm or more
All of the readings are confusing because my ammonia was just at 4.0 the other day when I originally posted this thread but it is almost gone. Should I add more?
The nitrites turned dark purple in ten seconds and it has blown up from .50 ppm
The nitrates went from 5.0 to 160 ppm In a matter of a few days. Not even lying the nitrates took five seconds to turn blood red

 

Today’s update!
Ammonia: .25 ppm or less but not at 0
Nitrite: 5.0 ppm
Nitrate: 160ppm or more
All of the readings are confusing because my ammonia was just at 4.0 the other day when I originally posted this thread but it is almost gone. Should I add more?
The nitrites turned dark purple in ten seconds and it has blown up from .50 ppm
The nitrates went from 5.0 to 160 ppm In a matter of a few days. Not even lying the nitrates took five seconds to turn blood red

Huge water change,90% knock down the nitrite and nitrate,how long have you been cycling?
I'm gonna assume you are close to finishing.

 

you're in the nitrite phase now.

do a large water change, high nitrate can stall the cycle.

dose 2ppm ammonia to keep the BB growing.

 

Huge water change,90% knock down the nitrite and nitrate,how long have you been cycling?
I'm gonna assume you are close to finishing.

3 weeks exactly

 

3 weeks exactly

Good cycle going,your converting almost there

 

Good cycle going,your converting almost there

Nice! I thought I would mess up by now (knocking on wood)

 

You should dose enough ammonia to bring the level up to 2 ppm with the hope that the level will be down to zero in 24 hours. If the level was up to 4 ppm, you have been dosing too much ammonia. Do a large water change to get things back under control and then recheck the calculations on your ammonia dosage. You do not want the ammonia to go over 2 ppm.

 

Alright guys! After an 80% water change and and waiting for 24 hours, here are my water parameters:
Ammonia: 2.0 ppm
Nitrites: 5.0 ppm
Nitrates: 80 ppm
Is everything ok?
The nitrites didn’t change. The ammonia didn’t go down after I put 2 ppm in it yesterday and the nitrates are only cut in half.

Alright guys! After an 80% water change and and waiting for 24 hours, here are my water parameters:
Ammonia: 2.0 ppm
Nitrites: 5.0 ppm
Nitrates: 80 ppm
Is everything ok?
The nitrites didn’t change. The ammonia didn’t go down after I put 2 ppm in it yesterday and the nitrates are only cut in half.

Help me please I am new to cycling

 

It is really difficult to tell the difference between 40 ppm and 80 ppm nitrates on the color chart. I suspect they dropped more than you think they did. The nitrates may have been well above 80 ppm before the water change.

I would suggest you keep doing water changes ever couple of days until you get the nitrates below 20 ppm and the nitrites below 1 ppm. You cannot consider your tank to be fully cycled until you add 2ppm ammonia and 24 hours later both the ammonia and nitrite show 0 ppm (or at least nor more than 0.25 ppm).

 

It is really difficult to tell the difference between 40 ppm and 80 ppm nitrates on the color chart. I suspect they dropped more than you think they did. The nitrates may have been well above 80 ppm before the water change.

I would suggest you keep doing water changes ever couple of days until you get the nitrates below 20 ppm and the nitrites below 1 ppm. You cannot consider your tank to be fully cycled until you add 2ppm ammonia and 24 hours later both the ammonia and nitrite show 0 ppm (or at least nor more than 0.25 ppm).

Okay thank you so much I will do a water change tomorrow

 

Tomato plants.
Philodendron.
Pothos.
Succulents.
Suspend the stock in the water and let them take root.

 

Alright just did another test after an 85% water change and here are the parameters. I put 2 ppm ammonia in after the water change along with the usual water conditioner.
Ammonia: 2ppm
Nitrites: 5ppm and 2ppm are so difficult to differ so between the two I’d say 5ppm
Nitrates:20ppm!
They came down!
Any advice?
this has become a journal in a way
Also, I am wondering what my ph is I’m not good at seeing it so here it is it was the high ph test

 

Alright just did another test after an 85% water change and here are the parameters. I put 2 ppm ammonia in after the water change along with the usual water conditioner.
Ammonia: 2ppm
Nitrites: 5ppm and 2ppm are so difficult to differ so between the two I’d say 5ppm
Nitrates:20ppm!
They came down!
Any advice?
this has become a journal in a way
Also, I am wondering what my ph is I’m not good at seeing it so here it is it was the high ph test

P.h @ 7.8 or 8
I think you may be playing with it too much,I'd let it be and check again monday,youve been dosing ammonia almost 4 days now and are at week 4? Of cycling....let it do its thing, I'd suggest when nitrites and ammonia drop to put a hardy fish or two in and keep doing partial water changes with them in and see what plays out.

 

P.h @ 7.8 or 8
I think you may be playing with it too much,I'd let it be and check again monday,youve been dosing ammonia almost 4 days now and are at week 4? Of cycling....let it do its thing, I'd suggest when nitrites and ammonia drop to put a hardy fish or two in and keep doing partial water changes with them in and see what plays out.

Okay! Thank you for the help.
What fish would you recommend. The water will be unheated and the future tank mates would be 6 aeneus cories and 8-10 White Cloud Mountain minnows. Preferably centerpiece fish

 

Your water changes have brought down the nitrites and nitrates. That is good. I agree with the post above that you can hold off on the water changes for a few days and see what happens.

 

Your water changes have brought down the nitrites and nitrates. That is good. I agree with the post above that you can hold off on the water changes for a few days and see what happens.

I will check on Tuesday as I am not at my house until then

 

Also, I am wondering what my ph is I’m not good at seeing it so here it is it was the high ph test

You are already in good hands and are getting good recommendations. Now it is just a waiting game. For now just add 2ppm ammonia each time it drops to or close to zero. I did want to mention. When determining your pH level use the normal pH test first. If it pegs the chart out only then do you use the high pH test. Is this what you have done?

 

You are already in good hands and are getting good recommendations. Now it is just a waiting game. For now just add 2ppm ammonia each time it drops to or close to zero. I did want to mention. When determining your pH level use the normal pH test first. If it pegs the chart out only then do you use the high pH test. Is this what you have done?

Yes it went to 7.6 fast

 

Yes it went to 7.6 fast

When the [H is in the 7.6-7.8 range, neither the normal pH test, nor the high range pH test give great color matches, but at least you know you are somewhere in that range. If that is where your pH ends up over the long run, you might want to purchase one of the inexpensive electronic pH pens. However, they need to be calibrated periodically using a buffer solution to get accurate results. I have six tanks that I keep around 7.6 pH, so an pH meter is useful. If you have only one tank, then either method works.

 

When the [H is in the 7.6-7.8 range, neither the normal pH test, nor the high range pH test give great color matches, but at least you know you are somewhere in that range. If that is where your pH ends up over the long run, you might want to purchase one of the inexpensive electronic pH pens. However, they need to be calibrated periodically using a buffer solution to get accurate results. I have six tanks that I keep around 7.6 pH, so an pH meter is useful. If you have only one tank, then either method works.

Okay so what are some good fish to finish the cycle with? Maybe wcmm?

 

WCMM are some of the hardiest fish around. They do not even need a heater in most tanks. However, are they something you want to keep in the tank when the cycle is completed? They like cooler water than most tropical fish. Thus, determine your long term stocking plan and then add a few of the hardiest fish first. You want to make sure whatever you add is inexpensive in case you do lose them.

 

As everyone has said, get your cycle complete by adding enough ammonia to read 2ppm. You will know your cycle is right when the ammonia and nitrites are at zero ppm and stay that way after 24 hours. Do this for a few days. You might notice mini blooms as the days go on. Stay the course. Add ammonia to bring it to 2ppm and test 24 hours later. You are good when it consistently stays at zero for the ammonia and the nitrites. The nitrates are going to be high. That is normal. Once you have a week of steady readings on your ammonia and nitrites, do a 90% water change. Now you can add a few fish. The minnows you mentioned are a good choice - but only ad a few at first. Keep testing, if the nitrates are over 40 ppm - do a 25% water change. It goes without saying, keep testing for ammonia and nitrites, if they bump up do 50% water changes and cut back on the feeding. Wait a week or two and add a couple of more minnows. Slowly add fish to the stocking level you want to achieve.
Fish are living creatures. Please don't be impatient and cause them harm. Do the right thing. Take your time. Do it right.

 

WCMM are some of the hardiest fish around. They do not even need a heater in most tanks. However, are they something you want to keep in the tank when the cycle is completed? They like cooler water than most tropical fish. Thus, determine your long term stocking plan and then add a few of the hardiest fish first. You want to make sure whatever you add is inexpensive in case you do lose them.

Right I’m going to go with normal white clouds because the go for 2 bucks as my lfs. I’d prefer long fin and Golden but they are 9 and 5 bucks

Right I’m going to go with normal white clouds because the go for 2 bucks as my lfs. I’d prefer long fin and Golden but they are 9 and 5 bucks

And when my tank is aged and stable I’ll add cories because I know they are’s sensitive to nitrates and nitrites

 

As everyone has said, get your cycle complete by adding enough ammonia to read 2ppm. You will know your cycle is right when the ammonia and nitrites are at zero ppm and stay that way after 24 hours. Do this for a few days. You might notice mini blooms as the days go on. Stay the course. Add ammonia to bring it to 2ppm and test 24 hours later. You are good when it consistently stays at zero for the ammonia and the nitrites. The nitrates are going to be high. That is normal. Once you have a week of steady readings on your ammonia and nitrites, do a 90% water change. Now you can add a few fish. The minnows you mentioned are a good choice - but only ad a few at first. Keep testing, if the nitrates are over 40 ppm - do a 25% water change. It goes without saying, keep testing for ammonia and nitrites, if they bump up do 50% water changes and cut back on the feeding. Wait a week or two and add a couple of more minnows. Slowly add fish to the stocking level you want to achieve.
Fish are living creatures. Please don't be impatient and cause them harm. Do the right thing. Take your time. Do it right.

Thank you so much and I am trying to be patient and do it right the first time!

 

If you are already doing a fishless cycle don't add fish until you are all done. 0/0/some Nitrate.

 

If you are already doing a fishless cycle don't add fish until you are all done. 0/0/some Nitrate.

Right that’s is what I’m trying to do... haha
Going to test tonight as I was out of town for a few days

okay so here are the parameters.
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite 5ppm
Nitrate 160ppm

it happened again...
Do I dose 2ppm ammonia to put it back up? I can’t do a water change tonight but I can dose ammonia. Am I supposed to be dosing 2ppm? StarGirl

 

Yes, dose back up to 2ppm ammonia.

 

Right I’m going to go with normal white clouds because the go for 2 bucks as my lfs. I’d prefer long fin and Golden but they are 9 and 5 bucks

And when my tank is aged and stable I’ll add cories because I know they are’s sensitive to nitrates and nitrites

Corys are one of the armor plated catfish. They derive that name because of the bony plates they have. Unfortunately, Corys do not have scales which provided a layer of armor for most fish. Thus, they are sensitive to many impurities in the water as well as many types of medications. For Corys the cleaner the water the better.

 

Corys are one of the armor plated catfish. They derive that name because of the bony plates they have. Unfortunately, Corys do not have scales which provided a layer of armor for most fish. Thus, they are sensitive to many impurities in the water as well as many types of medications. For Corys the cleaner the water the better.

Sounds good! Just dosed ammonia
Should I do a water change today? Do I add ammonia again later?