New To Fish Keeping, Can Anyone Help Me With Questions?

Hey guys, i`m really new to the fish keeping world. I have purchased this tank kit.

My set up consists of:
Imagitarium 6.8 gallon tank kit: included in the kit:
1. Submersible Pump:
- small powered pump provides a small current
2. filters included:
- ceramic beads -white carbon filter -triangle sponge
3. LED light




have two days now and I am iffy about the pump it was included.. I do not see bubbles.. so I wasn't sure if I need an air pump to purchase it seperatley. the pump provides a small current as I feel it on my finger when I put my hand in the water. however I don`t know if this will need a separate air pump.. as well.

I have added a tetra 50 watt heater along with a thermometer (black one that sticks to the outer glass) the heater seems to be holding the temp around 74-78 so far.

I have to anubias, and a moss marimoball as well. are these hard to keep alive and happy?

I will also add that I have
-supplement tabs from sea chem in my gravel ( I placed two tabs in my gravel)
-flourish bottle, and water conditioner. ( I just added the appropriate dose for my tank of flourish and conditioner this morning.

I also snipped away yellow/brown and ripped leaves and scooped them out from the anubias that I noticed.

I have two decors as well. so far my biggest concerns are:
- My tanks shows cloudy water, will this clear up or do I need to do a water change I have two days with the tank now.
- my lid is glass and the tank seems to produce a layer of condensation due to the heated water is this bad?
-Do I really need the flourish bottle additives or are the supplemental tabs plenty?
- I have been using my LED lights ( 8-10 hours on a day) is this fine so far?
- I want to understand how to cycle my tank so I can introduce fish, I understand a small part.
-is a liquid water test kit needed?
-does my submersible pump need to be on 24/7?
-will I need an air pump along with my submersible pump?
Oh and I have used tetra brand water conditioner, will safe start cancel out the conditioner if used?

I don't plan to add fish until I know my tank is cycled and I wanna know how to begin the cycle

 

As far as the plants go they are easy to keep alive and don't need root tabs as the anubius isn't actually supposed to be buried, if you bury the rhizome the plant will start to die. It's best attached to rock/wood/decoration

 

You may get away with using the test strips which are less expensive that the liquid alternative but they are not that accurate. Your tank will clear up, its in the process of establishing itself.

To start off your cycle, buy some fish food and add it into your tank. This will start the cycle by adding ammonia. This is where testing your water becomes important.

 

As far as the plants go they are easy to keep alive and don't need root tabs as the anubius isn't actually supposed to be buried, if you bury the rhizome the plant will start to die. It's best attached to rock/wood/decoration

I should re arrange them then. How can I attach them to rocks or objects ? They tend to float away

 

Either super glue or tie them with cotton or an elastic band

 

You may get away with using the test strips which are less expensive that the liquid alternative but they are not that accurate. Your tank will clear up, its in the process of establishing itself.

To start off your cycle, buy some fish food and add it into your tank. This will start the cycle by adding ammonia. This is where testing your water becomes important.

Thanks for the reply! Dang.. I guess I wasted money on the fertilizer and tabs then... As for the starting the cycle part; I heard from another forum page on here that it can be done by using tetra brand safe start ? Is this correct? If so will this counteract the conditioner I add to my water?

Either super glue or tie them with cotton or an elastic band

I'll give it a try, I'll tie it with fish line maybe that can work? As that is what I got in hand for now.. do I tie the rhizome to the object? And ignore the root? The roots will not be burried in the gravel then will they?

 

keep your fertilizer as you will find out that sometime when go to buy food, you end up buying an extra plant- the cloudiness is normal. It will clear up on its own in a couple of days. Safe start is an option. The condensation on your tank lid is okay. nothing wrong with it. Liquid test kits are more accurate than the strips, so I suggest investing on it and getting used to using them early on ( avoid developing the bad habit of assuming, rather than testing and knowing). The filter does need to run all day, specially since it's a nano tank. You could add an air stone, don't forget to buy an air pump and tubing as well.
What kind of fish are you keeping?

 

keep your fertilizer as you will find out that sometime when go to buy food, you end up buying an extra plant- the cloudiness is normal. It will clear up on its own in a couple of days. Safe start is an option. The condensation on your tank lid is okay. nothing wrong with it. Liquid test kits are more accurate than the strips, so I suggest investing on it and getting used to using them early on ( avoid developing the bad habit of assuming, rather than testing and knowing). The filter does need to run all day, specially since it's a nano tank. You could add an air stone, don't forget to buy an air pump and tubing as well.
What kind of fish are you keeping?

I'm thinking if getting betta fish, I will look into the liquid tests kits. Is the air pump necessary? I have my filter pump on low due to the elbow peice falling out of the socket from the high setting (pressure)

 

I'm thinking if getting betta fish, I will look into the liquid tests kits. Is the air pump necessary? I have my filter pump on low due to the elbow peice falling out of the socket from the high setting (pressure)

Bettas are pretty cool .To run an air stone, you need an air pump. Bettas don't like too much water agitation so if you already have a sponge filter, I would just get a splitter and run the air stone off the same air pump as your filter.

 

Bettas are pretty cool .To run an air stone, you need an air pump. Bettas don't like too much water agitation so if you already have a sponge filter, I would just get a splitter and run the air stone off the same air pump as your filter.

Can I share a pic of my filter pump? Just so we can be on the same page. I don't know if I can split it in two. But that'd be so sweet!

 

yeah upload it

 

Thanks for the reply! Dang.. I guess I wasted money on the fertilizer and tabs then... As for the starting the cycle part; I heard from another forum page on here that it can be done by using tetra brand safe start ? Is this correct? If so will this counteract the conditioner I add to my water?

Yes, kind of.

You don't currently have fish right? If not, do the following:

The cycle requires ammonia to kick off.

The steps are.
1. Setup tank and dechlorinate water.
2. Add ammonia to 2-5 ppm. Go to Ace hardware to buy pure ammonia. I think they have a 10% ammonium hydroxide solution (ammonia and water).
3. Test water daily. It will take a week to start breaking the ammonia into nitrite. After 3 weeks, it will break it down fast and at the level of a cycled tank.
4. After your tank breaks down ammonia, test for nitrite. This is more toxic than ammonia. It takes about 1.5 weeks to start breaking that into nitrate.

It's a slow process but it doing it without fish in the aquarium is much less stressful.

 

Yes, kind of.

You don't currently have fish right? If not, do the following:

The cycle requires ammonia to kick off.

The steps are.
1. Setup tank and dechlorinate water.
2. Add ammonia to 2-5 ppm. Go to Ace hardware to buy pure ammonia. I think they have a 10% ammonium hydroxide solution (ammonia and water).
3. Test water daily. It will take a week to start breaking the ammonia into nitrite. After 3 weeks, it will break it down fast and at the level of a cycled tank.
4. After your tank breaks down ammonia, test for nitrite. This is more toxic than ammonia. It takes about 1.5 weeks to start breaking that into nitrate.

It's a slow process but it doing it without fish in the aquarium is much less stressful.

First time reading about starting the cycle with pure amonia- you learn something new everyday.

 

First time reading about starting the cycle with pure amonia- you learn something new everyday.

I believe ammonia is more toxic than nitrite? Am I wrong?

 

First time reading about starting the cycle with pure amonia- you learn something new everyday.

It's much easier and less stressful than doing a fish in cycle. Doing a fish in cycle requires a lot of water changes to keep the fish alive. Just dose your ammonia to 2-4 ppm and wait. If you had a fish in, you'd have to do water changes every day to keep the ammonia under 1 ppm and would need to keep dosing the tank with Prime to bind the ammonia in non-toxic form.

I think it's hard to find pure ammonia except for at Ace Hardware. I went to Lowes and Home Depot first and couldn't find it. Ace has their own brand of it. Or you could get it online. I think Dr Tim's or something.

And you only need a couple drops (of the 10% stuff)! That stuff is potent. Just drop it in and then test your water.

Good luck!

I believe ammonia is more toxic than nitrite? Am I wrong?

I've read that nitrite is slightly more toxic than ammonia. It's just what people on this website have said.

Either way, ammonia and nitrite are both very toxic.

 

yeah upload it

This is the filter pump my tank kit came with. You can see the pump itself if rather small and is adjustable by a switch on the back. (4 settings) ( the area where this pump is placed is limited and small as well so that's why the pump system is small.) And the system consists of two elbow pieces, the plastic tube connector, and an adjustable output piece that joins the other elbow piece. When I have the setting higher than low medium it blows off the adjustable outlet.. and it is annoying.. the piece lands in the gravel. So I have it on lower setting

Yes, kind of.

You don't currently have fish right? If not, do the following:

The cycle requires ammonia to kick off.

The steps are.
1. Setup tank and dechlorinate water.
2. Add ammonia to 2-5 ppm. Go to Ace hardware to buy pure ammonia. I think they have a 10% ammonium hydroxide solution (ammonia and water).
3. Test water daily. It will take a week to start breaking the ammonia into nitrite. After 3 weeks, it will break it down fast and at the level of a cycled tank.
4. After your tank breaks down ammonia, test for nitrite. This is more toxic than ammonia. It takes about 1.5 weeks to start breaking that into nitrate.

It's a slow process but it doing it without fish in the aquarium is much less stressful.

Correct, I currently don't have fish in yet. I'm trying to cycle first. So I'll introduce a source of amonia, wait for it to turn into nitrite, and finally test for nitrate levels. I believe nitrate levels will be around when ammonia and nitrite levels hit zero? So if that's correct.. does this mean I'd have to test for ammonia almost Everytime I test for nitrite or nitrate? just because that's what controls the direction of the cycle?

 

I'll be honest, I've never used one of those so I can't speak from experience on it. But if you're keeping a betta, just make sure the flow is low in your tank.

I have 5 betta nano tanks with sponge filter and they all run off a single air pump intended for a 30 gallon. Since have valves in the connectors I can adjust the amount of air going into each filter.

 

I'll be honest, I've never used one of those so I can't speak from experience on it. But if you're keeping a betta, just make sure the flow is low in your tank.

Are you speaking about the pump? Yes I'll keep it on lower current settings. Will I still be able to split it to a bubble stone? From what you see is it do able

 

Yes, but that pump might not have enough power to supply both the filter and the airstone. All you need is this piece here...

 

Yes, but that pump might not have enough power to supply both the filter and the airstone. All you need is this piece here...

Where will the Y piece be inserted? On the pump cube output, or on the elbow peice from the pump output, or maybe the elbow peice from the tube output?

Yes, but that pump might not have enough power to supply both the filter and the airstone. All you need is this piece here...

I think maybe if I up the current, it will distribute equally since it has to force air into two outputs instead of just one?

 

Yep. They also sell single control valves that you could install in both air tubes to control the flow.

 

Yep. They also sell single control valves that you could install in both air tubes to control the flow.

Do these just control of it goes in the a tube or not? Or do they also control amount of air going in?

Do these just control of it goes in the a tube or not? Or do they also control amount of air going in?

I may need a bigger size one for the tube that connects to the pump.. it's a bit wiser than the airlines hmm so what I'm understanding is one will split the air from the pump into two channels. While the two tubes will have a T piece ( controls like an on and off switch) hopefully it can control how much air as well getting excited at all this learning, thanks to you!

 

this would be your setup:

Pump connected to air line #1

Airline #1 connected to splitter

Splitter connected to Airline #2 and Airline #3

Airline #2 connected to air valve #1
Airline #3 connected to air valve #2

Air valve #1 connected to Airline #4
Air valve #2 connected to Airline #5

Airline #4 connected filter
Airline #5 connected to air stone

Using air pumps and sponge filters are much more economical than your usual hang on backs because you can run multiples from one air pump. Also in case you loose power, a battery operated air pump can help you keep your tanks running. In my case, because I have a large collection of tanks I actually have a generator for such events lol

 

Using air pumps and sponge filters are much more economical than your usual hang on backs because you can run multiples from one air pump. Also in case you loose power, a battery operated air pump can help you keep your tanks running. In my case, because I have a large collection of tanks I actually have a generator for such events lol

I'll look into a battery powered one. Do you mean switch to a battery powered pump filter it have a back up that Is battery powered? I'd like to be at the level you're at haha

 

Truthfully airators just aggitate the surface of the water to creat oxygen as long as the water surface is moving and you have plants you should be ok on that aspect. Those imaginarium aquariums are supposed to be like show tanks and bubbles take away from what you should be looking at.

 

Did you get this all sorted out? I believe you guys were talking apples and oranges for awhile. The pump that you are showing in your picture is a water pump. I have a double setup of this on my 9 gal Fluval Flex. The other pump that you guys were talking about is an air pump. Completely diff from a water pump. A water pump produces a flow of water, usually from your filter tank into the fish tank. The air pump obviously produces a flow of air, used for bubbles in the tank or for an air filter. Some air pumps come with output flow adjustment from low to high. Some have one output and some have two outputs. One of the cheapest, but good air pumps is a Tetra 10. It has just one output and no output adjustment for flow. Hope this helps some. Cheers.

 

Did you get this all sorted out? I believe you guys were talking apples and oranges for awhile. The pump that you are showing in your picture is a water pump. I have a double setup of this on my 9 gal Fluval Flex. The other pump that you guys were talking about is an air pump. Completely diff from a water pump. A water pump produces a flow of water, usually from your filter tank into the fish tank. The air pump obviously produces a flow of air, used for bubbles in the tank or for an air filter. Some air pumps come with output flow adjustment from low to high. Some have one output and some have two outputs. One of the cheapest, but good air pumps is a Tetra 10. It has just one output and no output adjustment for flow. Hope this helps some. Cheers.

lol yeah, I've never used a water pump so was trying to explain what I use in my betta tanks since that's what he was thinking of keeping. I'll do some research on the water pump to better understand how it operates in it's uses.

 

Another way to do a fish in cycle is to get tetra safestart plus. You'll need your current ammonia to be under 3 ppm, preferably lower which is why it's good for a new rank. You have to wait 24 hours after the last time you used a water conditioner or any chemical to lock up the ammonia. Bacteria can not eat locked up ammonia so it starves and you've wasted your money.

After letting your fishes water set for 24 hours (or 24 hours after you've gotten you ammonia down to a level that it will stay under 2 ppm fI 24 hours if you already have fish), add the tetra safestart plus (the bottle will tell you how much and adding extra isn't a bad thing). Add your fish at the same time. Best to add only one until the bacteria is established.

It will take 5 to 7 days for your bacteria to be fully established. Once its established, you'll see the nitrates go up and then you do water changes for that.

Trust me that tetra safestart is the fastest and, in my opinion, best way to get bacteria started. I let my aquarium run for 3 weeks and thought I'd started my nitrogen cycle and put in 4 mollies and a pleco. I was using ammo lock and my ammonia was over 4 when I saw a post on this forum about the tetra safestart. He wrote to tetra and asked about best procedures for it. I did water change after water change over 2 days to get my ammonia to around 2 ppm, followed the instructions on the post about waiting 24 hours and such and finally, after over 2 months on fighting with my tank, it developed the proper bacteria and nitrogen cycle in about 1 week. So, I'm a complete believer in safestart now.

Definitely search around this forum, though, there's great info on here.

 

Another way to do a fish in cycle is to get tetra safestart plus. You'll need your current ammonia to be under 3 ppm, preferably lower which is why it's good for a new rank. You have to wait 24 hours after the last time you used a water conditioner or any chemical to lock up the ammonia. Bacteria can not eat locked up ammonia so it starves and you've wasted your money.

After letting your fishes water set for 24 hours (or 24 hours after you've gotten you ammonia down to a level that it will stay under 2 ppm fI 24 hours if you already have fish), add the tetra safestart plus (the bottle will tell you how much and adding extra isn't a bad thing). Add your fish at the same time. Best to add only one until the bacteria is established.

It will take 5 to 7 days for your bacteria to be fully established. Once its established, you'll see the nitrates go up and then you do water changes for that.

Trust me that tetra safestart is the fastest and, in my opinion, best way to get bacteria started. I let my aquarium run for 3 weeks and thought I'd started my nitrogen cycle and put in 4 mollies and a pleco. I was using ammo lock and my ammonia was over 4 when I saw a post on this forum about the tetra safestart. He wrote to tetra and asked about best procedures for it. I did water change after water change over 2 days to get my ammonia to around 2 ppm, followed the instructions on the post about waiting 24 hours and such and finally, after over 2 months on fighting with my tank, it developed the proper bacteria and nitrogen cycle in about 1 week. So, I'm a complete believer in safestart now.

Definitely search around this forum, though, there's great info on here.

Can you explain what safe start plus does? I'm a bit confused... And as far as ammonia do I need it to be ammonia or can I use fish food? I been seeing different answers.. oh and what did you mean about ammonia lock? What is this and how will I lose money? I just want to get my fishless cycling going sorry guys I want to clear up things and just get straight forward facts and what not

 

Yes fishing gut will definitely work! try tie it to the object by the rhizome. If the roots are close to the soil they may bury themselves and that's okay, just as long as the rhizome is above the ground

 

just get straight forward facts

Tetra SafeStart is a bacteria additive that's meant to jump start your nitrogen cycle with a ready supply of dormant bacteria.

You can use fish food or a diluted ammonia solution. Fish food can be messy and it's difficult to equate a certain amount of fish food with a precise quantity of ammonia. This is why many prefer to dose ammonia directly, as you can more accurately control how much is entering your aquarium.

API Ammo Lock is a chemical additive that turns ammonia into ammonium which is less harmful to fish. However, there's evidence that nitrifying bacteria can't readily process ammonium into nitrite. I'm assuming that because of this, Tetra recommends a 24 hour wait between adding Ammo Lock and SafeStart to allow the ammonium to revert to ammonia.

I wouldn't get too hung up on "straight forward facts". Like any hobby, there's a lot of different and conflicting information available for keeping fish in an aquarium. Some things which I think are difficult to discern from myth and fact include: bacteria dying over a few days if you stop dosing ammonia; high nitrites stalling the nitrogen cycle; water changes being harmful to the nitrogen cycle.

I think it's more important to mix and match sensible information to see what works for your aquarium.

 

just

Tetra safestart plus is a concentrated combo of the bacteria you're trying to start and a suspension liquid to keep it alive. It only works once you have a fish in there because it needs a good amount of ammonia to survive.

Ammo lock is a product I tried that detoxifies the ammonia so it doesn't kill your fish. The problem with it is that it doesn't remove the ammonia but it changes it so the bacteria can't eat it. Same as water conditioners do but just in a much stronger form.

Tetra safestart plus was created specifically to do fish in cycles in about 1 week or less.

The fish food option works (I guess because it didnt work for me) for a slow natural build if ammonia because ammonia is caused by fish food and fish waste or any other biological item such as plants decaying in your tank. So, the fish food decays and bacteria should form in your water to feed on it and grow.

This takes a long time though, from what I've read, because the fish food produces a small amount of ammonia compared to an actual fish and you're starting with almost no bacteria to begin with.

Tetra safestart plus is the live bacteria so when you add it, you don't have to wait for it to grow. You just need to make sure it survives which means providing it food in the form of a fish and places to colonize. Personally, I modified my filter to be very bacteria friendly so the majority of my colony is in my filter not mu gravel so I don't accidentally kill too much of it when I clean and start a cycle.

There are several types if what is called bio beads you can get. They are small pieces of ceramic in net bags that you rinse and place in your filter in front if or behind your sponge. These give bacteria more places to colonize. I have 2 in my filter so I can safely wash one when it's collected too much debris and leave the other alone so, again. I don't completely destroy my bacteria colony.

Once you have a bacteria colony, protect it! It is very difficult to protect your fish from harm if you accidentally kill your bacteria forcing you to try to restart the nitrogen cycle when you already have a stocked tank. It can be done but it's better to just protect the bacteria to begin with.

 

API Ammo Lock is a chemical additive that turns ammonia into ammonium which is less harmful to fish. However, there's evidence that nitrifying bacteria can't readily process ammonium into nitrite. I'm assuming that because of this, Tetra recommends a 24 hour wait between adding Ammo Lock and SafeStart to allow the ammonium to revert to ammonia.

Since TSS is basically a bottle of bacteria in a "stabilized ammonia solution" (whatever that is). So the thing with TSS and not using a water conditioner less than 24 hours before adding the TSS is due to whatever chemical reaction takes place to remove chloramines.

Chloramines are a combination of chlorine and ammonia, and in order for a dechlorinator to remove chloramines it has to break the ammonia-chlorine bond. Something in the way this is done, interferes with TSS (probably with that "stabilized ammonia"). But since the water conditioner is only active for 24 hours (probably a little less) you need to wait before adding TSS so it does not interfere.

 

If you have some water current movement, even under the water, that helps to make the surface wavy, then motion of the water will help with oxygen exchange, so you do not actually need to see bubbles (like we see with air pumps) or water falling into the surface of the water (like we usually see with many HOB filters).

The pump should be on 24/7. It is powering your filtration system.

Those Imagitarium tanks are not designed for high population or high waste fish, so if you maintain low population or other certain fish, then that kind of filter system should be OK. Eg the betta that you wanted should be OK with that tank.

 

Tetra SafeStart is a bacteria additive that's meant to jump start your nitrogen cycle with a ready supply of dormant bacteria.

You can use fish food or a diluted ammonia solution. Fish food can be messy and it's difficult to equate a certain amount of fish food with a precise quantity of ammonia. This is why many prefer to dose ammonia directly, as you can more accurately control how much is entering your aquarium.

API Ammo Lock is a chemical additive that turns ammonia into ammonium which is less harmful to fish. However, there's evidence that nitrifying bacteria can't readily process ammonium into nitrite. I'm assuming that because of this, Tetra recommends a 24 hour wait between adding Ammo Lock and SafeStart to allow the ammonium to revert to ammonia.

I wouldn't get too hung up on "straight forward facts". Like any hobby, there's a lot of different and conflicting information available for keeping fish in an aquarium. Some things which I think are difficult to discern from myth and fact include: bacteria dying over a few days if you stop dosing ammonia; high nitrites stalling the nitrogen cycle; water changes being harmful to the nitrogen cycle.

I think it's more important to mix and match sensible information to see what works for your aquarium.

I just got tetra safe start and ammonia hydroxide 10%. Just curuocu if I dump the dose of bsctBact in the filter area or in the water and how long before adding amonia

If you have some water current movement, even under the water, that helps to make the surface wavy, then motion of the water will help with oxygen exchange, so you do not actually need to see bubbles (like we see with air pumps) or water falling into the surface of the water (like we usually see with many HOB filters).

The pump should be on 24/7. It is powering your filtration system.

Those Imagitarium tanks are not designed for high population or high waste fish, so if you maintain low population or other certain fish, then that kind of filter system should be OK. Eg the betta that you wanted should be OK with that tank.

Thank you for the tip!

Since TSS is basically a bottle of bacteria in a "stabilized ammonia solution" (whatever that is). So the thing with TSS and not using a water conditioner less than 24 hours before adding the TSS is due to whatever chemical reaction takes place to remove chloramines.

Chloramines are a combination of chlorine and ammonia, and in order for a dechlorinator to remove chloramines it has to break the ammonia-chlorine bond. Something in the way this is done, interferes with TSS (probably with that "stabilized ammonia"). But since the water conditioner is only active for 24 hours (probably a little less) you need to wait before adding TSS so it does not interfere.

Good to know this! Thanks a lot guys

 

Am I taking crazy pills here or does the OP have an intank tiny powerhead? Only asking because it appears to me, and possibly from poor reading comprehension on my part, that some are advising him to hook air powered devices to it?

 

You should add the TSS and ammonia at the same time. I always pour the TSS directly into the tank.

 

You should add the TSS and ammonia at the same time. I always pour the TSS directly into the tank.

I did a water quality test with a liquid kit here are my results
pH: 7.6
Amonia: 0.5ppm
Nitrite: 0.5ppm
Nitrate: 80ppm

Can I add safe start with this amount of ammonia & nitrate? Nitrate looks a bit high? Do I change the water now, add conditioner wait 24 hrs then add safe start?

 

I would do a large water change to get the nitrate levels down, then wait 24 hours and then add the TSS and ammonia.

 

I would do a large water change to get the nitrate levels down, then wait 24 hours and then add the TSS and ammonia.

The problem is my tap water is the same level in nitrates it's red in apI kit 40-80 same as aquarium results) idk what to do to not have nitrate levels in the start