New To Api Master Test Kit!

After 3 years of being in the hobby I finally got some sense knocked into me by my LFS and I ordered a liquid test kit today.

I recently went back to the LFS for a refund on some fish that died within 24 hours and they obviously wanted a water sample. And, from my test strips I wasn't worried, I knew I was zeroed out. Come to find out, 0 nitrite, 0 ammonia, ABOVE 80 NITRATE! I was baffled..the GBRs are spawning and everything else is happy and the tank is clean, I do weekly water changes. Obviously nitrates aren't enough to kill fish in 24 hours especially with how slow I acclimate, so I got my refund but I'm definitely getting a liquid test kit.

SO. That being said, is there anything that I need to? Any possible mess ups or big mistakes I could do? How often should I test? I was thinking weekly, 1-2 days after water change day?

 

I check my water every two days, and this is what saved my fish today. I tested two days ago and everything was normal, tested today and had .50 ammonia. Things can fail very rapidly. Also you were about 4 times the normal nitrate levels and that could have been the killer.

 

I check my water every two days, and this is what saved my fish today. I tested two days ago and everything was normal, tested today and had .50 ammonia. Things can fail very rapidly. Also you were about 4 times the normal nitrate levels and that could have been the killer.

I understand the nitrogen cycle and know how bad the nitrates were, but as I said, at the same exact time I added 2 GBRs and 6 pineapple swords. Only 3 swords dies, and the more sensitive rams actually spawned for my only 5 days after getting them lol. So I kind of ruled out the nitrates. Regardless, I didn't get any more fish like I was planning and instead got home and did a 50% water change, and will be testing my water as soon as the kit comes in. Isn't every two days a little excessive though? Just as a curiosity what was it that caused an ammonia spike in your tank?

 

I mean you can rule it out if you want but I'd really try to figure out what the issue was then. And I found a hidden poop corner haha. You just never know what's going on so every two days seems reasonable at least to me because sometimes things happen and it's a matter of a few days to fix it or there is a dead fish. Somthing as little as poop to a hidden decaying leaf can change things.

 

I test daily in my breeder tanks and every-other-day in my other tanks. I also test my tap water every 2 weeks. Have you tested your tap? It is possible that is where your nitrates are coming from. Nitrates that high do have the possibility to stress/kill fish, although it isn't as bad as ammonia or nitrite. I would do H2O changes to bring the nitrates down, provided your tap water isn't full of the stuff

Also just a tip on the liquid test kit: shake/bang the heck out of the nitrate bottles, especially the second bottle. They need to be shaken very well!

 

I test daily in my breeder tanks and every-other-day in my other tanks. I also test my tap water every 2 weeks. Have you tested your tap? It is possible that is where your nitrates are coming from. Nitrates that high do have the possibility to stress/kill fish, although it isn't as bad as ammonia or nitrite. I would do H2O changes to bring the nitrates down, provided your tap water isn't full of the stuff

Also just a tip on the liquid test kit: shake/bang the heck out of the nitrate bottles, especially the second bottle. They need to be shaken very well!

Thanks for the test kit tip!

 

Thanks for the test kit tip!

You're welcome! Also, wait 5 minutes (no more, no less) after mixing everything in the tubes. It takes time for the readings to show, but if you let it sit too long you'll also get an incorrect reading. I set a timer (because 5 minutes is more than enough time for my little mind to wander )

 

You're welcome! Also, wait 5 minutes (no more, no less) after mixing everything in the tubes. It takes time for the readings to show, but if you let it sit too long you'll also get an incorrect reading. I set a timer (because 5 minutes is more than enough time for my little mind to wander )

The LFS took almost 10 minutes to get to me with the results from their apI test kit...could that be why my nitrates appeared to be so ridiculously high?

 

ALSO WHEN YOU ARE SHAKING THE NITRATE TUBE AND IT SAYS ONE MINUTE DO NOT STOP UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES AND SHAKE AS HARD AND FAST AS YOU CAN

 

ALSO WHEN YOU ARE SHAKING THE NITRATE TUBE AND IT SAYS ONE MINUTE DO NOT STOP UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES AND SHAKE AS HARD AND FAST AS YOU CAN

I beat the shxt out of it on the nearest surface too!

 

10 min is normal, one test is just a swish butd then another test is a wait 5 min and then so is the next and then the last you have to put in drops, swish, shake the second bottle for 30 and then shake the whole tube for a minute and then wait 5 minutes

I beat the shxt out of it on the nearest surface too!

I just pray my arm doesn't break xD with the dropper bottle I pound on my hand like you do for a new box of smokes and for the tube I shake it so hard I may as well be working out XD

 

The LFS took almost 10 minutes to get to me with the results from their apI test kit...could that be why my nitrates appeared to be so ridiculously high?

If they waited 10 minutes your nitrates could actually be lower. The longer you let it sit the higher it will read. 5 minutes is the set time, no less and no more. Earlier and it may show lower levels than you actually have, any longer and the levels can appear higher.

 

I think he is meaning from when they took the water back to when they gave the levels. It takes me about 1 min on one vial, about 1 minute on the second(5 min starts) The third takes about 1 minute(5 min for this one starts) the 4th takes 2 min 30 seconds (5 starts for this one.) so that is about right because then they have to write everything down

 

If they waited 10 minutes your nitrates could actually be lower. The longer you let it sit the higher it will read. 5 minutes is the set time, no less and no more. Earlier and it may show lower levels than you actually have, any longer and the levels can appear higher.

Huh, well with the scare I got from their water test I was planning to do large water changes today (I did), this Sunday, next Wednesday, and next Sunday, and then getting the fish I planned to get yesterday the week after that to ensure all the nitrates were under control. I guess we'll see.

 

Huh, well with the scare I got from their water test I was planning to do large water changes today (I did), this Sunday, next Wednesday, and next Sunday, and then getting the fish I planned to get yesterday the week after that to ensure all the nitrates were under control. I guess we'll see.

It makes more sense that they let it sit longer before reading it... your fish would be in dire straights if your nitrates were truly that high.

AllySaturn I'm OCD so I set a timer for each vial as soon as i'm done mixing it. Every tank has its own set of vials, and I've labeled the bottoms so I have separate ones for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, etc. Even my betta tanks have their own set of vials. My tap water also has its own set.

 

Fish can slowly acclimate to high nitrates, but if you either reduce or add more of it then fish will shock and die. This does not mean that they should be kept in high nitrates.
I find this thread funny in a sense, I don't test my water... maybe my nitrates are 100 ppm and all my fish have mutated by now I don't think so tho, I have gotten away with just temp acclimating fish a lot of the time so my nitrates should be reasonable.

 

Haha I have a clock that ticks for me XD and it seems impossible to me logically for them to have let it sit to long if the 10 minutes is about the average time needed but I run on logic But I wasn't there haha I hope it isn't really this bad but you never know

 

Fish can slowly acclimate to high nitrates, but if you either reduce or add more of it then fish will shock and die. This does not mean that they should be kept in high nitrates.

Agreed. They may be fine for a time if they aren't just dumped into high nitrates, but it will eventually take its toll on them.

I find this thread funny in a sense, I don't test my water... maybe my nitrates are 100 ppm... I don't think so tho, I have gotten away with just temp acclimating fish a lot of the time so my nitrates should be reasonable.

While I consider it to be a required step in my aquarium care I know many people get away without testing and have no problems. However it is nice to have. Particularly on my breeder tanks. I've had snails die (which spew ammonia like nobody's business!) and the only way I knew was my ammonia quickly spiked.

 

It makes more sense that they let it sit longer before reading it... your fish would be in dire straights if your nitrates were truly that high.

AllySaturn I'm OCD so I set a timer for each vial as soon as i'm done mixing it. Every tank has its own set of vials, and I've labeled the bottoms so I have separate ones for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, etc. Even my betta tanks have their own set of vials. My tap water also has its own set.

Does the using different vials have anything to do with cross-contamination between tanks or getting accurate results if you use the same vial for different tests? Or do you just do it for the sake of organization?

 

Haha I have a clock that ticks for me XD and it seems impossible to me logically for them to have let it sit to long if the 10 minutes is about the average time needed but I run on logic But I wasn't there haha I hope it isn't really this bad but you never know

I guess it depends on what the 10 minutes was. Total mix and wait time, or just wait time. I'm particular though

 

If you clean the vials it shouldn't change anything. I use hot water and then air dry. I also try to get the test water from around the same spot because I find it is more accurate that way but then again OCD is a powerful thing

 

Does the using different vials have anything to do with cross-contamination between tanks or getting accurate results if you use the same vial for different tests? Or do you just do it for the sake of organization?

Oh no you can use the same set of vials on all tanks provided you rinse and dry them between uses. I'm simply OCD (not just with aquariums). I tend to be highly organized and so, each tank has its own set, plus my tap. I find it easier (I can set up multiple tests at once, well 24 test- I only have 24 timers) but again, I'm just a tad bit OCD.

 

Oh no you can use the same set of vials on all tanks provided you rinse and dry them between uses. I'm simply OCD (not just with aquariums). I tend to be highly organized and so, each tank has its own set, plus my tap. I find it easier (I can set up multiple tests at once, well 24 test- I only have 24 timers) but again, I'm just a tad bit OCD.

If you clean the vials it shouldn't change anything. I use hot water and then air dry. I also try to get the test water from around the same spot because I find it is more accurate that way but then again OCD is a powerful thing

Thank you guys so much for the quick responses and solid information

 

No problem haha, answering questions is aiding in my procrastination, I leave for a 8 hour drive in 3 hours and I haven't packed yet hahaha I really don't wanna leave my fish for the next 4 days, he has a great fish sitter though haha

 

Of course! Happy to help

 

HI all, so I finally purchased the API Freshwater Master Test Kit and I am begging for help. I can't differentiate some of the colors. (Eyes are not perfect for seperating colors)
Please help me read this Test. I am so used to reading the Test Strips.

I performed a 50% water change (usually do 25% every Thursday) yesterday and treated with Prime and AmmoLock, but I am still getting Ammonia readings, and to me, look very high.

A friend recommend an Algone Filter, anyone know if that'll help.

 

To me that looks like Ph 6.4, ammonia 2-4ppm, nitrite 0 and nitrate 40-80ppm.
Are there fish in that tank?
Any cycled filter appropriate for your tank and stocking will remove all the ammonia

 

Well, lets see. To me it appears that your pH is about 6.4, Ammonia is about 3 ppm, Nitrites are about 0, and Nitrates are somewhere between 40-80 ppm. Problem areas that I see is ammonia and nitrates. Ammonia should be 0 and Nitrates should be 20 ppm or less. I recommend 50-60% water changes every day until you are cycled. This is a new tank correct?

 

Wow. If you have fish you definitely need to do some water changes.

But if you used ammolock, the ammonia is there but not toxic. I've used it before and I had solid 8 ppm readings for a week. I'll never use it again.

If you have high readings, or can't differentiate between 2 colors, you can do a half and half test. Use half tank water and half ammonia/nitrite/nitrate free water. (Make sure you don't have any in your tap.) Add your drops like normal, and then multiply your readings by 2.

What I see in your pics
pH 6.4-6.5
Ammonia 4
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 40-80 (that half and half test would come in handy here)

If I were you, I would do a 90% Water change, or 3 x 50% back to back to get your ammonia below 1.

 

HI guys, thanks for the responses. Just got done checking my tap for ammonia. It had a reading of 0.25.

I'll try to answer in order.
Yes I have fish in there now. I have 4 Black Neon Tetras, 5 Zebra Danios, and 3 Angelfish. My plan was to do a fish in cycle with the 9 little guys. But adopted the Angelfish about 2 weeks ago from a relative that was moving and sold her tank.

The tank was set up on 2-24-17.

Question, with every 50% water change, should I also be treating with Prime? I am off work the next 3 days, so I'll be right on top of the water changes.

 

Oh wow. Those water conditions can cause irreversible damage to your fish very quickly. I would do a massive water change now and continue with smaller changes every day, or even multiple times a day. Definitely dose Prime with each water change.

 

What size tank do you have ?

 

When doing a fish-in cycle (not recommended), a 25% water change once a week is not nearly adequate. You probably should be doing that every day, maybe every other.

 

What size tank do you have ?

60Gal Long

 

HI guys, thanks for the responses. Just got done checking my tap for ammonia. It had a reading of 0.25.

I'll try to answer in order.
Yes I have fish in there now. I have 4 Black Neon Tetras, 5 Zebra Danios, and 3 Angelfish. My plan was to do a fish in cycle with the 9 little guys. But adopted the Angelfish about 2 weeks ago from a relative that was moving and sold her tank.

The tank was set up on 2-24-17.

Question, with every 50% water change, should I also be treating with Prime? I am off work the next 3 days, so I'll be right on top of the water changes.

Yes treat with prime.
Do a large water change as soon as possible then test your water again. If ammonia is above 1ppm repeat. Keep doing this until ammonia is below 1ppm.
This level of ammonia is very dangerous for the fish and to be honest I'm surprised they're alive. This is why I always do fishless cycles
Can you get some TSS to speed up cycling?
You also have some stocking issues

 

Yes treat with prime.
Do a large water change as soon as possible then test your water again. If ammonia is above 1ppm repeat. Keep doing this until ammonia is below 1ppm.
This level of ammonia is very dangerous for the fish and to be honest I'm surprised they're alive. This is why I always do fishless cycles
Can you get some TSS to speed up cycling?
You also have some stocking issues

Yes I can get some as soon as the pet store opens in about half an hour. I'll be able to start the water change when I get back. My wife is picking up some more 5gal buckets as we speak.

So more than 50% would be fine and treat with Prime and TSS? And do this back to back to back, as long as it takes for ammonia to go down.

Too many fish for stocking?

 

Prime also converts ammonia to a non toxic form so i'd stop using the ammolock. Prime can only detoxify ammonia for up to 48 hours and up to 1ppm, therefore a large water change is required, and I would recommend at least 75% for such high ammonia levels. Using prime and TSS will definetely help but don't forget the water changes as they are essential for fish-in cycling.

 

Yes, treat with prime. if you use prime and tss, do not add the tss for 24 hours after dosing prime as the prime will inhibit the establishment of the tss. Also do not add prime for 3-4 days after the tss. Keep doing the water changes until the ammonia is below 1, the lower the better.

Angelfish like temps around 78-80, where your danios need to be below 75. Keeping them at higher temps can cause stress, and will shorten their life span. I would have to check the temp needs for the black neons, but I think they like warmer water.

 

Yes, treat with prime. if you use prime and tss, do not add the tss for 24 hours after dosing prime as the prime will inhibit the establishment of the tss. Also do not add prime for 3-4 days after the tss. Keep doing the water changes until the ammonia is below 1, the lower the better.

Angelfish like temps around 78-80, where your danios need to be below 75. Keeping them at higher temps can cause stress, and will shorten their life span. I would have to check the temp needs for the black neons, but I think they like warmer water.

Thank you so much for your help! I am right on it.

Now that my wife is home for the weekend, she can help me read these test colors as her eyesight is much better than mine.

 

Yes I can get some as soon as the pet store opens in about half an hour. I'll be able to start the water change when I get back. My wife is picking up some more 5gal buckets as we speak.

Do you have a gravel vacuum? That will help with cleaning your tank especially since you have a 60 gallon; you might have your numbers that high if you haven't been able to do a good vacuum.