New Tank questions/cycling time

My sons were given some fish for their birthday...and yes I made the mistake of thinking that fish were easy to take care of, until I started searching on the net.
I'm just wondering about the time for cycling. The tank was set up 11 days ago and let run for 24 hours (according to the pet stores directions) So the fish have been in for 10 days and I have lost both mollies so far. One three days ago and one two days ago. The other three fish seem to be doing well so far.
Ammonia has been between .50 and 1.0 daily for several days now and I have been doing daily water changes to keep it down. The ph is always at 7.0.
Shouldn't the nitrites start to go up soon? Are the daily water changes going to slow the process down? I've read about the Bio-spira and thinking about getting some this weekend, but don't want the levels to spike to quickly and kill the rest of the fish. Which is worse a long cycle or getting it over quickly even with the sudden spikes as far as the fish are concerned?

 

How big is the tank and what are you using to treat the water? Cycling can take anywhere from a few weeks to a month or more depending upon the size of the tank and the method used to "feed" the water.

 

I'm sorry forgot to mention that stuff. It is a ten gallon tank I started with 5 fish and a crab in it and I'm down to 3 fish(a platy, swordtail and another small fish). I put Aquasafe in the water and adding it to any new water. Lightly feeding the fish flake food. Five days ago I did a big water change (60%) and tried to clean out the gravel as best I could. (I've order a siphon/gravel cleaner) I've been changing about 3 gallons of water daily to get the ammonia levels down below 1.0.

 

Ok, here's where we can help. First, I'm not familiar with Aquasafe, but if I'm not mistaken, you're supposed to be able to put fish in right away....However, the only products that I know of that can lock up ammonia and nitrites to keep them in their non-toxic state are Prime or Amquel+. Use one of these in your the water you are adding back to the tank when doing a water change.

Next, do not vacuum the gravel during the cycle. This will only cause the cycle to take longer as you are vacuuming up the very bacteria you are trying to establish in the tank.

Do not clean the filter or decor during the cycle for the same reasons. Monitor the water parameters and work hard to keep the ammonia below 1 by doing water changes. Sometimes you may have to do two or more per day. You will eventually see nitrites in your testing, while the ammonia disappears. Then nitrates while the nitrites disappear. Once there is no sign or ammonia or nitrite you are done cycling. Once there are only nitrates take a reading on them and perform a 50% water change. You can then add a couple more fish. Don't forget that the general rule of thumb is 1" of fish per gallon of water. It's important to figure the fish as adults when calculating your fish population. Then your goal is to maintain 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and nitrates below 20. Do this by performing regular water changes. Vacuum approx. 1/3 but not more than 1/2 of your gravel each week when doing your water changes. This should help prevent your tank from going into minI cycles....

Good Luck and have fun!

 

o.k I got a little excited today when I tested the water and the color in the test tube for ammonia stayed a very light lime green. The lightest that it has stayed 24 hours after a water change in a long time so according to my card it is between a .25 and a .50 which is what it has been testing right after a water change. But the other tests still came out at 0. Is that suppose to happen? I thought that nitrites were suppose to start and then the ammonia goes down. Should I still do a water change? Or since the fish appear to be well and it already low leave it be?

I won't bother the gravel again until the cycle is done. I knew not to touch the filter and to not take all the water out, but didn't know not to bother the gravel. Thanks for the info.

 

At .25-.50 your ammonia hasn't even started...You'll get a BIG ammonia spike (1+) followed by a BIG nitrite spike and diminishing ammonia...Then the nitrates will begin to appear and the nitrites will fall.....The other thing is to test your water before a water change, not after. The water must mix for at least 24hrs in order to get accurate results.

Since you've been vacuuming your gravel you probably set your cycle back by several days. You need to keep monitoring your ammonia and continue water changes to keep your fish comfortable....As mentioned I would switch from Aquasafe to Prime as your water conditioner as Prime will detoxify not only the ammonia, but the nitrites and nitrates as well.

 

I'm sorry I didn't explain it that very well....I have been doing daily checks that have been reading 1.0 in ammonia(before water changes) and daily water changes to get it down below that.

There were a couple of days this past week that I had to do a water change twice a day cause it wouldn't stay below 1.0. (Every time I do a water change I'm putting in 3 to 4 gallons of new water, for a ten gallon tank)

Thursday it stayed low, it is Saturday and the ammonia just got up to 1.0 for the first time in two days. So I have done another 4 gallon water change and I do check it after a water change also to make sure that it has gone down enough. (I don't want to lose anymore fish)

My thing was my nitrite is still reading zero so I was asking if the ammonia was really going down or maybe it is because the bioload is less(since I lost two fish in two days)

And I now realize that I have slowed down the process by cleaning out the gravel last weekend and will not be doing it again even though if I agitate it you can see quite a bit of stuff coming up in the water.
I'm also trying to be very careful about feeding the fish just enough and not to where a lot is sinking so it won't add to the problem. I will also be getting some Prime or Amquel+ to use instead of the Aquasafe as soon as possible.