New Tank Help! Cycling using Seachem - Page 2

Harraj128

I guess reading others tank being ready so much faster than mine getting me jealous haha. My family always asking where the fishes at x).
Thanks for your help so far tho!! I will keep you updated when nothing or something weird shows up!
Don't read other threads you'll go crazy lol. And yes your family will keep asking, I have a 240 gallon tank and I'm being asked when are the fish coming even though we've already been through a cycle previously! Easiest answer is "they'll come when the tank is ready".

Best way to think about it is this, you plan to keep the fish alot longer than a month or so, so what harm is there waiting that much time to ensure your preparing the best environment for those fish
 

NewFishHelp

Don't read other threads you'll go crazy lol. And yes your family will keep asking, I have a 240 gallon tank and I'm being asked when are the fish coming even though we've already been through a cycle previously! Easiest answer is "they'll come when the tank is ready".

Best way to think about it is this, you plan to keep the fish alot longer than a month or so, so what harm is there waiting that much time to ensure your preparing the best environment for those fish
That's what I been telling them like "If I put fish in here, they will die so fast, its not worth it"
Don;t be sad. Just give it time. The cycle will grow. It is really not possible for me to tell you how long it is going to take. Under normal circumstances ammonia starts going down within 3 weeks or so. Nitrites normally start showing up soon after the ammonia starts going down.
I think my ammonia started going down already, I tested positive for nitrites today already! Does this mean my cycle is actually working now?
 

mattgirl

I think my ammonia started going down already, I tested positive for nitrites today already! Does this mean my cycle is actually working now?
Yes, it is telling you you've grown some ammonia eating bacteria. You wouldn't be seeing any nitrites if that wasn't so.
 

NewFishHelp

Yes, it is telling you you've grown some ammonia eating bacteria. You wouldn't be seeing any nitrites if that wasn't so.
A bit weird, but am I getting some nitrate or is this just false alarm? Nitrite is still 0.25ppm blue and ammonia still around the same at 1.0 ish..
 

mattgirl

A bit weird, but am I getting some nitrate or is this just false alarm? Nitrite is still 0.25ppm blue and ammonia still around the same at 1.0 ish..
It isn't unusual to get a reading for all three at the same time during the cycling process. Some ammonia is being processed. If it wasn't you wouldn't be seeing any nitrites. If some nitrites weren't being processed you wouldn't be seeing any nitrates and you clearly are.
 

NewFishHelp

It isn't unusual to get a reading for all three at the same time during the cycling process. Some ammonia is being processed. If it wasn't you wouldn't be seeing any nitrites. If some nitrites weren't being processed you wouldn't be seeing any nitrates and you clearly are.
Im just confused why the ammonia isnt really going down, Im lowkey thinking it went a bit up. But I would think the nitrites went up as well? But it never changed to any color darker than 0.25 which is pretty light still. Is this common to see?
 

mattgirl

Im just confused why the ammonia isnt really going down, Im lowkey thinking it went a bit up. But I would think the nitrites went up as well? But it never changed to any color darker than 0.25 which is pretty light still. Is this common to see?
Each cycle is different. We know something is happening. It is just happening slowly. As I said, although it doesn't seem to be some ammonia is being processed. If it wasn't you would see no nitrites or nitrates unless you have them in your source water.
 

angsess78

Im just confused why the ammonia isnt really going down, Im lowkey thinking it went a bit up. But I would think the nitrites went up as well? But it never changed to any color darker than 0.25 which is pretty light still. Is this common to see?
I saw it during my cycle. I also saw a phase where Nitrites stayed really high after my tank began rapidly consuming ammonia. AS a PP said, every cycle is different. Its easy to get bogged down in what "should be" happening, but sometimes tanks don't follow the rules.
 

NewFishHelp

Each cycle is different. We know something is happening. It is just happening slowly. As I said, although it doesn't seem to be some ammonia is being processed. If it wasn't you would see no nitrites or nitrates unless you have them in your source water.
Hi! It’s been a while 10days ~ just a quick question and update, is there a certain level of water ph I dont want? Like if that’s too high? My ph is deep blue, high 7.0. Pictures taken today, I can tell if that is Nitrate or just my lighting of yellows. All are the same test just different angles.
 

mattgirl

We want the pH up to at least 7. As it gets lower than that the cycling process can slow down. At 6 or below it can almost stop. What you are seeing is fine.

I am seeing a low reading for nitrites. Maybe .25 or so. I am also seeing some nitrates since I am seeing orange in the test tube. Has your ammonia dropped to zero at any point yet?
 

NewFishHelp

We want the pH up to at least 7. As it gets lower than that the cycling process can slow down. At 6 or below it can almost stop. What you are seeing is fine.

I am seeing a low reading for nitrites. Maybe .25 or so. I am also seeing some nitrates since I am seeing orange in the test tube. Has your ammonia dropped to zero at any point yet?
Oh okay, def above 7. No, my ammonia havent touched 0 at all nor did I add anything in besides the first time. Yeah Im not sure if that nitrate is orange or yellow. If theres no nitrate it would be clear yellow right?
 

mattgirl

No nitrates would be a true yellow. I am seeing orange in the nitrate test tube. Have you started adding a tiny bit of fish food I recommended to help this cycle along?
 

NewFishHelp

No nitrates would be a true yellow. I am seeing orange in the nitrate test tube. Have you started adding a tiny bit of fish food I recommended to help this cycle along?
Only the fish flakes from the beginning, was afraid to add anything anymore :( .. Should I add now? The nitrates went a bit of a purple hue in today's test rather than the 0.25, is that a good sign?
 

mattgirl

Don't be afraid to add the pinch of fish food. I am not going to recommend anything that will hurt the cycling process. There are no fish in this tank so no lives are at stake. Right now you are just trying to grow bacteria. The bacteria needs food.

Seeing the nitrites go up is a good sign. Seeing them going up means some ammonia is being eaten so it should be going down. It is kinda strange that you have had a hint of nitrites for so long. Have you run the nitrite test on your tap water? I have to wonder if you have some in there and that is where the original reading came from. The fact that you are seeing a deeper purple is a good sign.
 

NewFishHelp

Don't be afraid to add the pinch of fish food. I am not going to recommend anything that will hurt the cycling process. There are no fish in this tank so no lives are at stake. Right now you are just trying to grow bacteria. The bacteria needs food.

Seeing the nitrites go up is a good sign. Seeing them going up means some ammonia is being eaten so it should be going down. It is kinda strange that you have had a hint of nitrites for so long. Have you run the nitrite test on your tap water? I have to wonder if you have some in there and that is where the original reading came from. The fact that you are seeing a deeper purple is a good sign.
Right I will do that. I dont believe my tap water has nitrite because I did do a test right when I set up the tank before and everythinf was 0 (the first post I posted in my thread) It’s still the same results as before, literally nothing changed haha. However water is decreasing, is it alright if I pour more water in to decrease the evaporated water?
 

mattgirl

Yes, you can do top offs. Just be sure you add your water conditioner to the water before pouring it in there. Instead of me having to read back through 2 pages of posts please refresh my memory and give me the numbers for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. I help with a lot of tanks. It is impossible for me to remember where we are for each one.
 

NewFishHelp

Yes, you can do top offs. Just be sure you add your water conditioner to the water before pouring it in there. Instead of me having to read back through 2 pages of posts please refresh my memory and give me the numbers for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. I help with a lot of tanks. It is impossible for me to remember where we are for each one.
Okay thanks! Just added more water. The first test I did was this! See picture
 

mattgirl

Okay thanks! Just added more water. The first test I did was this! See picture
Is this what you are seeing right now?
 

NewFishHelp

Is this what you are seeing right now?
Oh you meant today? This is the test results I got today BEFORE the water topoff, I didnt do a test for after yet.
 

mattgirl

Oh you meant today? This is the test results I got today BEFORE the water topoff, I didnt do a test for after yet.
Well seeing these numbers tell us you have both ammonia and nitrite eating bacteria just not enough yet to lower both to zero. If you didn't have ammonia eating bacteria you wouldn't have nitrites. If you didn't have nitrite eating bacteria you wouldn't have nitrates.

What is your pH number? If it is too low it can slow the cycling process down to a crawl. We want to make sure it is at or above 7
 

NewFishHelp

Well seeing these numbers tell us you have both ammonia and nitrite eating bacteria just not enough yet to lower both to zero. If you didn't have ammonia eating bacteria you wouldn't have nitrites. If you didn't have nitrite eating bacteria you wouldn't have nitrates.

What is your pH number? If it is too low it can slow the cycling process down to a crawl. We want to make sure it is at or above 7
My ph is a blue to deep blue. I still have the corals siting in the tank, they been very helpful :)! Just curious, with the state of my tank right now, what happens if there were fish in there?
 

mattgirl

My ph is a blue to deep blue. I still have the corals siting in the tank, they been very helpful :)! Just curious, with the state of my tank right now, what happens if there were fish in there?
pH is perfect then. If you added fish right now both ammonia and nitrites would continue to go up. I wouldn't add fish until both drop to zero. Should you choose to do so though I would change out as much water as i could. I would make sure both ammonia and nitrites are zero. If they weren't after the almost 100% water change i would do another water change. I would make sure both were zero before adding fish.

How long has it been since you did a water change? Is the ammonia you are seeing right now the same ammonia you've had all along or have you added some along the way?
 

NewFishHelp

pH is perfect then. If you added fish right now both ammonia and nitrites would continue to go up. I wouldn't add fish until both drop to zero. Should you choose to do so though I would change out as much water as i could. I would make sure both ammonia and nitrites are zero. If they weren't after the almost 100% water change i would do another water change. I would make sure both were zero before adding fish.

How long has it been since you did a water change? Is the ammonia you are seeing right now the same ammonia you've had all along or have you added some along the way?
Oh okay, I think I changed it about 2-3 weeks ago. And I havent added any new ammonia whatsoever :(
 

mattgirl

Oh okay, I think I changed it about 2-3 weeks ago. And I havent added any new ammonia whatsoever :(
This is a really strange one. If it makes you feel any better you are not alone. Another member is experiencing close to the same thing but in his case the cycle simply would not start even with adding bottled bacteria 3 times.

What size is this tank? What are you plans for stocking it? I have some thoughts but it depends on the future stocking plan.

I just read the first few posts in this thread. I see we are working with a 10 gallon tank and have been working on the cycle for right at 6 weeks. Highly unusual not to see the ammonia drop to zero yet but not unheard of. Some cycles take longer than others.

Go ahead and change out at least half of the water. Be sure you temp match and add the Prime to the fresh water before pouring it in there. You have some bacteria in there. We don't want to damage it with untreated water. After the water change run your ammonia test. If you are still seeing some ammonia don't add any more. Hopefully this will give the bacteria the jump start it needs to get things moving forward.
 

NewFishHelp

This is a really strange one. If it makes you feel any better you are not alone. Another member is experiencing close to the same thing but in his case the cycle simply would not start even with adding bottled bacteria 3 times.

What size is this tank? What are you plans for stocking it? I have some thoughts but it depends on the future stocking plan.

I just read the first few posts in this thread. I see we are working with a 10 gallon tank and have been working on the cycle for right at 6 weeks. Highly unusual not to see the ammonia drop to zero yet but not unheard of. Some cycles take longer than others.

Go ahead and change out at least half of the water. Be sure you temp match and add the Prime to the fresh water before pouring it in there. You have some bacteria in there. We don't want to damage it with untreated water. After the water change run your ammonia test. If you are still seeing some ammonia don't add any more. Hopefully this will give the bacteria the jump start it needs to get things moving forward.
Yes I thought its so weird too based on what I read form different forums... so basically I will change out the water again and whatever ammonia stays, I will not add any? I was thinking mayb goldfish or the ghost face
 

mattgirl

Right, if there is still some ammonia in there we want to give the bacteria a chance to clear it out.

From all I've read 10 gallons seems to be a bit too small for most goldfish. I am not saying it isn't doable though. I seldom ever get into stocking choices.

The reason I asked is if you were planning on just a betta I would recommend getting all the ammonia out of there with water changes and go ahead and put him in there. Goldfish have a much higher bio-load so might not be the best option. It would work though as long as you keep the ammonia down to no more than .25. Lower is better but we can live with .25
 

NewFishHelp

Right, if there is still some ammonia in there we want to give the bacteria a chance to clear it out.

From all I've read 10 gallons seems to be a bit too small for most goldfish. I am not saying it isn't doable though. I seldom ever get into stocking choices.

The reason I asked is if you were planning on just a betta I would recommend getting all the ammonia out of there with water changes and go ahead and put him in there. Goldfish have a much higher bio-load so might not be the best option. It would work though as long as you keep the ammonia down to no more than .25. Lower is better but we can live with .25
Wait, my tank is ready for fishes already?! I would also need to make sure there is no nitrites as well right?
 

mattgirl

Wait, my tank is ready for fishes already?! I would also need to make sure there is no nitrites as well right?
No, the cycle isn't complete. Yes, you want to make sure both ammonia and nitrites are down to zero. I don't know why it is taking so long so was suggesting a different option. To do so you need to get both ammonia and nitrites down to zero by doing water changes. .

You can of course continue with this fishless cycle and eventually the tank will complete the cycle. What I was suggesting would basically be doing a fish in cycle. If it is done with one little betta neither ammonia or nitrites should ever get up to dangerous levels as long as you keep them down by doing water changes.
 

NewFishHelp

No, the cycle isn't complete. Yes, you want to make sure both ammonia and nitrites are down to zero. I don't know why it is taking so long so was suggesting a different option. To do so you need to get both ammonia and nitrites down to zero by doing water changes. .

You can of course continue with this fishless cycle and eventually the tank will complete the cycle. What I was suggesting would basically be doing a fish in cycle. If it is done with one little betta neither ammonia or nitrites should ever get up to dangerous levels as long as you keep them down by doing water changes.
Would you recommend a Pleco mayb? I had one before when I was young and I did not cycle any tanks when I was young and they lived with me for years.
 

mattgirl

Would you recommend a Pleco mayb? I had one before when I was young and I did not cycle any tanks when I was young and they lived with me for years.
No, I don't recommend putting a pleco in your 10 gallon tank.
 

NewFishHelp

No, I don't recommend putting a pleco in your 10 gallon tank.
Oh... is there anything else besides bettas you would recommend then? Im not really a fan of bettas :(

What about Dwarf suckers?
 

NewFishHelp

No, the cycle isn't complete. Yes, you want to make sure both ammonia and nitrites are down to zero. I don't know why it is taking so long so was suggesting a different option. To do so you need to get both ammonia and nitrites down to zero by doing water changes. .

You can of course continue with this fishless cycle and eventually the tank will complete the cycle. What I was suggesting would basically be doing a fish in cycle. If it is done with one little betta neither ammonia or nitrites should ever get up to dangerous levels as long as you keep them down by doing water changes.
I decided to wait until Saturday to get a fish, however I just did a test today, it seems all my Nitrite and whatever Nitrate I had are all gone :(.. the only thing that is coming up on my test is Ammonia at around 1ppm. I guess my cycle is kinda dead now?
 

mattgirl

I decided to wait until Saturday to get a fish, however I just did a test today, it seems all my Nitrite and whatever Nitrate I had are all gone :(.. the only thing that is coming up on my test is Ammonia at around 1ppm. I guess my cycle is kinda dead now?
Your cycle should not be dead. I don't know what is going on but bacteria isn't going to just die off for no reason. As long as you add your water conditioner when you add water to the tank and your pH is staying up to at least 7 you bacteria should be fine.

Are you sure you are running the nitrate test correctly. Nitrates normally don't just disappear all by themselves. A huge water change will remove them but if one hasn't been done and if you had nitrates at one point they should still be there.
 

NewFishHelp

Your cycle should not be dead. I don't know what is going on but bacteria isn't going to just die off for no reason. As long as you add your water conditioner when you add water to the tank and your pH is staying up to at least 7 you bacteria should be fine.

Are you sure you are running the nitrate test correctly. Nitrates normally don't just disappear all by themselves. A huge water change will remove them but if one hasn't been done and if you had nitrates at one point they should still be there.
I think I am? Not sure anymore. I just do 10 drops of each nitrate solution bottles into the tube with my water and shake it for a few seconds. This is the test I did for today.

i also did an extra test for the nitrate, the tube next to the nitrate is with just normal tap water. The one next to the ammonia is tank water. They seem to be the exact same color which is why I think they either never existed and was just lighting :(
I am thinking I will do the 50% change as you said, get a fish put in some bottle bacteria and let it go again?
 

mattgirl

I think I am? Not sure anymore. I just do 10 drops of each nitrate solution bottles into the tube with my water and shake it for a few seconds. This is the test I did for today.
Are you shaking bottle number 2 really really well just before adding drops to the test tube and then shaking the test tube for a full minute after adding drops from both bottles. If you don't shake bottle number two well enough to break the sediment loose from the bottom of the bottle you will not get an accurate reading. I use a timer when doing this test.

1) Put 5mls of tank water in the test tube
2) drop 10 drops from bottle number one.
3) put the cap on the test tube and invert it a few times to mix it.
4) Shake bottle #2 while banging it against the palm of your hand for at least 30 seconds. You have to break the sediment loose and mix it well.
5) drop 10 drops from bottle number two
6) put the cap on the test tube and shake it for a full minute
7) the color you see after 5 full minutes is the nitrate reading.

If you don't follow all these steps you will not get an accurate reading.
 

NewFishHelp

Are you shaking bottle number 2 really really well just before adding drops to the test tube and then shaking the test tube for a full minute after adding drops from both bottles. If you don't shake bottle number two well enough to break the sediment loose from the bottom of the bottle you will not get an accurate reading. I use a timer when doing this test.

1) Put 5mls of tank water in the test tube
2) drop 10 drops from bottle number one.
3) put the cap on the test tube and invert it a few times to mix it.
4) Shake bottle #2 while banging it against the palm of your hand for at least 30 seconds. You have to break the sediment loose and mix it well.
5) drop 10 drops from bottle number two
6) put the cap on the test tube and shake it for a full minute
7) the color you see after 5 full minutes is the nitrate reading.

If you don't follow all these steps you will not get an accurate reading.
I just did all that. Maybe you are right! Just before I did the water change I did that test with the instructions you gave. (Shook the tube and bottle so hard my hand hurt) I THINK I detect a tiny tiny hint of orange, it still seems as yellow as the rest but just a tiny hint of orange. I also did 50% water change so that I can decrease the ammonia more before tomorrow when I get a fish.
 

NewFishHelp

Your cycle should not be dead. I don't know what is going on but bacteria isn't going to just die off for no reason. As long as you add your water conditioner when you add water to the tank and your pH is staying up to at least 7 you bacteria should be fine.

Are you sure you are running the nitrate test correctly. Nitrates normally don't just disappear all by themselves. A huge water change will remove them but if one hasn't been done and if you had nitrates at one point they should still be there.
I am planning on getting a fish today, after the 50% change, my ammonia reading still seems to be at 0.50ppm, can I use Prime daily to render the ammonia harmless to the fish until next water change?
 

mattgirl

I am planning on getting a fish today, after the 50% change, my ammonia reading still seems to be at 0.50ppm, can I use Prime daily to render the ammonia harmless to the fish until next water change?
I wouldn't. I would just do water changes to get and keep it down. I wouldn't be comfortable with anything above .25
 

NewFishHelp

I wouldn't. I would just do water changes to get and keep it down. I wouldn't be comfortable with anything above .25
Ok! I ended up changing out the water again. I got two molly fishes, did some reaearch they seem to he hardy fishes so hopefully they are well. I accidentally pour too much food for them, would they just overeat?
 

mattgirl

Ok! I ended up changing out the water again. I got two molly fishes, did some reaearch they seem to he hardy fishes so hopefully they are well. I accidentally pour too much food for them, would they just overeat?
Siphon it out or the ammonia may spike.
 

NewFishHelp

Siphon it out or the ammonia may spike.
Hi! It’s been a while, but I have 2 Mollies in my tank now. I been checking the stats for ammonia and nitrite. My ammonia reached almost 2ppm today, should I do a water change? I was reading other forums and it seems doing water changes and siphoning the gravels takes away the bacterias that are trying to grow... I did a few water changes (25% water changes) and siphoned the gravel to get their poops out.. did I mess up the cycle already? So far no Nitrite at all and ammonia is climbing. I got my Mollies on the 6th of November if that helps.

also I been dosing it with Prime every other day ish to help with the ammonia.
 

Azedenkae

Hi! It’s been a while, but I have 2 Mollies in my tank now. I been checking the stats for ammonia and nitrite. My ammonia reached almost 2ppm today, should I do a water change? I was reading other forums and it seems doing water changes and siphoning the gravels takes away the bacterias that are trying to grow...
The first part is 100% incorrect - water changes has no material effect. Siphoning the gravel can though.
I did a few water changes (25% water changes) and siphoned the gravel to get their poops out.. did I mess up the cycle already?
Honestly I would never refrain from gravel-vaccing or any other regular maintenance item. It's part of creating a robust nitrification capacity during the cycle.
So far no Nitrite at all and ammonia is climbing. I got my Mollies on the 6th of November if that helps.

also I been dosing it with Prime every other day ish to help with the ammonia.
You should do a water change once ammonia can become toxic. If you dose Prime to deal with ammonia, then you only need to do a water change once ammonia is higher than 5ppm. Though more accurately, probably best to do a water change once ammonia is around 4ppm or so just to be sure.

Prime should be dosed at 1x dosage per 1ppm ammonia, up to 5ppm.
 

NewFishHelp

The first part is 100% incorrect - water changes has no material effect. Siphoning the gravel can though.

Honestly I would never refrain from gravel-vaccing or any other regular maintenance item. It's part of creating a robust nitrification capacity during the cycle.

You should do a water change once ammonia can become toxic. If you dose Prime to deal with ammonia, then you only need to do a water change once ammonia is higher than 5ppm. Though more accurately, probably best to do a water change once ammonia is around 4ppm or so just to be sure.

Prime should be dosed at 1x dosage per 1ppm ammonia, up to 5ppm.
Im a but confused, so I should still siphon through the gravel? I been trying to cycle for so long I dont want to do anything that cant make it not cycle :(

then I should do water change when its at around 4ppm? And how much water change do you recommend? Is it normal to not have any nirite present?
 

mattgirl

Hi! It’s been a while, but I have 2 Mollies in my tank now. I been checking the stats for ammonia and nitrite. My ammonia reached almost 2ppm today, should I do a water change? I was reading other forums and it seems doing water changes and siphoning the gravels takes away the bacterias that are trying to grow... I did a few water changes (25% water changes) and siphoned the gravel to get their poops out.. did I mess up the cycle already? So far no Nitrite at all and ammonia is climbing. I got my Mollies on the 6th of November if that helps.

also I been dosing it with Prime every other day ish to help with the ammonia.
I think I have answered this question more than once or twice already on this thread. Bacteria isn't free floating in the water. Doing water changes will not be removing bacteria. It may not be a bad idea to read this thread all the way through and keep reading until you understand what's happening.

Leave the gravel alone. If you are not over feeding the gravel should not have to be vacuumed. If you are over feeding and it is building up on the gravel stop over feeding. Excess food in the tank will cause the ammonia to spike.

You have fish in there now. Get and keep the ammonia as low as possible by changing some of the water. Common sense tells us if you are seeing 2ppm ammonia changing half the water will get it down to 1ppm. It is simple math.

I would do 2 - 50% water changes today. Do one, wait about 4 hours and do the second one. The first one will get the ammonia down to 1ppm. the second one will get it down to .5ppm.

Tomorrow do another 50% water change. This one should get the ammonia down to about .25ppm. Once you get it that low keep it that low by doing water changes as needed.

I would not be concerned about not seeing nitrites. Right now you need to concentrate on keeping the ammonia down as low as possible.

I never recommend adding Prime in place of doing a water change. Prime is a tool. We shouldn't depend on it to do the work for us.
 

NewFishHelp

I think I have answered this question more than once or twice already on this thread. Bacteria isn't free floating in the water. Doing water changes will not be removing bacteria. It may not be a bad idea to read this thread all the way through and keep reading until you understand what's happening.

Leave the gravel alone. If you are not over feeding the gravel should not have to be vacuumed. If you are over feeding and it is building up on the gravel stop over feeding. Excess food in the tank will cause the ammonia to spike.

You have fish in there now. Get and keep the ammonia as low as possible by changing some of the water. Common sense tells us if you are seeing 2ppm ammonia changing half the water will get it down to 1ppm. It is simple math.

I would do 2 - 50% water changes today. Do one, wait about 4 hours and do the second one. The first one will get the ammonia down to 1ppm. the second one will get it down to .5ppm.

Tomorrow do another 50% water change. This one should get the ammonia down to about .25ppm. Once you get it that low keep it that low by doing water changes as needed.

I would not be concerned about not seeing nitrites. Right now you need to concentrate on keeping the ammonia down as low as possible.

I never recommend adding Prime in place of doing a water change. Prime is a tool. We shouldn't depend on it to do the work for us.
Ok thanks! :) I appreciate you taking your time to type all that to help me very much!
 

Azedenkae

Im a but confused, so I should still siphon through the gravel? I been trying to cycle for so long I dont want to do anything that cant make it not cycle :(
I guess in that case you can just not siphon the gravel, but then best not to do that even after the cycle either.
then I should do water change when its at around 4ppm? And how much water change do you recommend? Is it normal to not have any nirite present?
Yes, but make sure to increase/decrease Prime dosage accordingly. 50% water change is what I'd recommend.

Nitrite not being present is quite normal. But also takes a bit of deciphering to determine what is going on.

You either have your ammonia not being consumed at all, being consumed as a nitrogen source, or oxidized via nitrification, but then any nitrite produced is also oxidized to nitrate.
 

NewFishHelp

I think I have answered this question more than once or twice already on this thread. Bacteria isn't free floating in the water. Doing water changes will not be removing bacteria. It may not be a bad idea to read this thread all the way through and keep reading until you understand what's happening.

Leave the gravel alone. If you are not over feeding the gravel should not have to be vacuumed. If you are over feeding and it is building up on the gravel stop over feeding. Excess food in the tank will cause the ammonia to spike.

You have fish in there now. Get and keep the ammonia as low as possible by changing some of the water. Common sense tells us if you are seeing 2ppm ammonia changing half the water will get it down to 1ppm. It is simple math.

I would do 2 - 50% water changes today. Do one, wait about 4 hours and do the second one. The first one will get the ammonia down to 1ppm. the second one will get it down to .5ppm.

Tomorrow do another 50% water change. This one should get the ammonia down to about .25ppm. Once you get it that low keep it that low by doing water changes as needed.

I would not be concerned about not seeing nitrites. Right now you need to concentrate on keeping the ammonia down as low as possible.

I never recommend adding Prime in place of doing a water change. Prime is a tool. We shouldn't depend on it to do the work for us.
Thank you for all your help. I am happy to say I believe my tank is cycled :)! 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite and nitrate at 5.0ppm solid! is there anything I need to do now or I am completely done!? :D
 

mattgirl

Thank you for all your help. I am happy to say I believe my tank is cycled :)! 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite and nitrate at 5.0ppm solid! is there anything I need to do now or I am completely done!? :D
This is very good news. Keep an eye on the numbers for a while longer. If the ammonia and nitrites stay at zero it is time to go to your weekly water changes.
 

Similar Aquarium Threads

Replies
11
Views
107
Mbradley17
Replies
3
Views
249
StarGirl
Replies
2
Views
248
Haku
Replies
6
Views
154
Typ
  • Question
Replies
5
Views
198
peachsonas

Random Great Thread!

New Aquarium Cycle Threads

Latest Aquarium Threads

Top Bottom