New Tank Help! Cycling using Seachem

NewFishHelp

Hi guys! This is my first time cycling a fish tank. I recently brought a 10 gallon fish tank and I dont know if I am having problems cycling it or not. I am currently on Day 4 of cycling it. I am doing a fishless cycle since it seems to be more humane according to other forums I read. I am using Seachem’s guide for cycling where I am dosing it with their Prime and Stability. On Day 1, I added in the fish flakes to make ammonia, do I need to add more in?
When I did the API Freshwater Kit to test the Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate levels (same order as in the picture I attached), everything seems to be zero according to the guide.. I am not sure what I am doing wrong, please help!

Thank you.
 

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mattgirl

Welcome to Fishlore :)

It takes a while for fish food to start decomposing enough to produce ammonia. It would be easier to control the amount of ammonia if you could use something like Dr. Tim's ammonium chloride or if hard to get, a piece of raw shrimp will provide the necessary ammonia. No matter which ammonia source you use count on it taking no less than 4 weeks to cycle this tank. It normally takes longer than that though. Don't expect to see nitrites for at least 3 weeks or any nitrates until after the nitrites rise and start falling.

How are you using the Prime? Unfortunately it seems folks have been lead to believe that Prime will help cycle a tank. It won't. Prime is a water conditioner designed to remove chlorine from our tap water. It also detoxes low levels of ammonia. We don't need detoxed ammonia when doing a fishless cycle. The only time you will add Prime is when you first filled the tank up, when you top off any evaporated water or when you do a partial water change. Any of the many water conditioners will work just as well as Prime when doing a fishless cycle since we are just using it to remove the chlorine.
 

NewFishHelp

Welcome to Fishlore :)

It takes a while for fish food to start decomposing enough to produce ammonia. It would be easier to control the amount of ammonia if you could use something like Dr. Tim's ammonium chloride or if hard to get, a piece of raw shrimp will provide the necessary ammonia. No matter which ammonia source you use count on it taking no less than 4 weeks to cycle this tank. It normally takes longer than that though. Don't expect to see nitrites for at least 3 weeks or any nitrates until after the nitrites rise and start falling.

How are you using the Prime? Unfortunately it seems folks have been lead to believe that Prime will help cycle a tank. It won't. Prime is a water conditioner designed to remove chlorine from our tap water. It also detoxes low levels of ammonia. We don't need detoxed ammonia when doing a fishless cycle. The only time you will add Prime is when you first filled the tank up, when you top off any evaporated water or when you do a partial water change. Any of the many water conditioners will work just as well as Prime when doing a fishless cycle since we are just using it to remove the chlorine.
Hi, I found the Seachem guide online and just been dosing it with Prime every other day as they said. If I buy Tim’s ammonium chloride now, can I add it in and how much should I add it in if I already have the fish flakes at the bottom? Do you recommend me that or should I just leave it as it is?
 

mattgirl

Hi, I found the Seachem guide online and just been dosing it with Prime every other day as they said. If I buy Tim’s ammonium chloride now, can I add it in and how much should I add it in if I already have the fish flakes at the bottom? Do you recommend me that or should I just leave it as it is?
The instructions for dosing every other day would have been for a fish in cycle. Since you have no fish in this tank there is no need to be detoxing the ammonia. We actually don't want it detoxed.

Yes, if you get the liquid ammonia you can start using it as soon as you get it. Start out with adding half the amount recommended on the bottle. Wait about 30 minutes after adding it and run your ammonia test. We want to get the ammonia level up to 2ppm. If the original amount you added gets it up to that level then do nothing else. If it isn't up to 2ppm add drops until it does. Keep track of how much you've added so you can do it again once it drops down close to zero.

Don't expect things to happen quickly. Doing a fishless cycle takes time an patience.

Leave the fish food in the tank. I actually recommend adding a tiny bit of fish food at least every third day along with liquid ammonia. This thread will explain why I recommend doing so. PSA: Something I am seeing more and more often, fishless cycling.... | Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Forum | 477380 We aren't counting on the fish food for our ammonia source so it doesn't take much of it. We control the ammonia level with the liquid ammonia.
 

NewFishHelp

The instructions for dosing every other day would have been for a fish in cycle. Since you have no fish in this tank there is no need to be detoxing the ammonia. We actually don't want it detoxed.

Yes, if you get the liquid ammonia you can start using it as soon as you get it. Start out with adding half the amount recommended on the bottle. Wait about 30 minutes after adding it and run your ammonia test. We want to get the ammonia level up to 2ppm. If the original amount you added gets it up to that level then do nothing else. If it isn't up to 2ppm add drops until it does. Keep track of how much you've added so you can do it again once it drops down close to zero.

Don't expect things to happen quickly. Doing a fishless cycle takes time an patience.

Leave the fish food in the tank. I actually recommend adding a tiny bit of fish food at least every third day along with liquid ammonia. This thread will explain why I recommend doing so. PSA: Something I am seeing more and more often, fishless cycling.... | Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Forum | 477380 We aren't counting on the fish food for our ammonia source so it doesn't take much of it. We control the ammonia level with the liquid ammonia.
After reading your thread, isnt it better for fish flakes to be the main producer of ammonia then?

I will stop adding in Prime then, thank you so much for that.

I thought seachem would be faster since I was seeing on youtube how people were able to finish their cycle within 2 weeks.
 

mattgirl

After reading your thread, isnt it better for fish flakes to be the main producer of ammonia then?
Not really because it is difficult to control the amount of ammonia with fish food. We want to see the ammonia level up to about 2ppm. It is very difficult to get it up to that level with fish food alone. One other thing, lots of fish food in a tank makes a big mess.
I will stop adding in Prime then, thank you so much for that.

I thought seachem would be faster since I was seeing on youtube how people were able to finish their cycle within 2 weeks.
unfortunately you can't always trust in everything you see on youtube. I suppose it is possible it helps in some cases and may for you but I wouldn't count on it cycling your tank that quick.
 

NewFishHelp

Not really because it is difficult to control the amount of ammonia with fish food. We want to see the ammonia level up to about 2ppm. It is very difficult to get it up to that level with fish food alone. One other thing, lots of fish food in a tank makes a big mess.

unfortunately you can't always trust in everything you see on youtube. I suppose it is possible it helps in some cases and may for you but I wouldn't count on it cycling your tank that quick.
I brought Dr. Tim's ammonium chloride and added till it reached 2ppm, so now I will just wait until it starts dropping? How long do you recommend I wait before I test it again? In addition, then I will stop adding it when it reaches to 0 when I detect traces of Nitrates? Do I have to do water changes while cycling or is that not recommended? Sorry to bomber you with all these questions.
 

PAcanis

I'm not doubting what you saw on YT, but from what I've seen there are a lot of tank builders doing fish IN cycles. They are changing out water more often to keep the ammonia down until the bacteria builds up that will change it to nitrite.

So maybe their cycle is not fully completed...
I used Fluval Cycle and it recommends dosing the tank well after fish are added. So obviously the cycle is not fully established if I need a maintenance dose.

IMO.
 

mattgirl

I brought Dr. Tim's ammonium chloride and added till it reached 2ppm, so now I will just wait until it starts dropping? How long do you recommend I wait before I test it again? In addition, then I will stop adding it when it reaches to 0 when I detect traces of Nitrates? Do I have to do water changes while cycling or is that not recommended? Sorry to bomber you with all these questions.
I wouldn't expect to see much happening for the first week so give it at least that long. Once it starts going down let it get to or close to zero. When it does get it back up to 2ppm. Continue doing that until you see nitrites. Don't be surprised if you don't see them for up to 3 weeks. You may see them sooner but don't be concerned if you don't.

You will know your cycle is done when you add 2ppm and both the ammonia and nitrites are zero 24 hours after adding the ammonia and you are seeing some nitrates. Time and the numbers will let us know if any water changes will need to be done.
 

fishdude5000

Hi guys! This is my first time cycling a fish tank. I recently brought a 10 gallon fish tank and I dont know if I am having problems cycling it or not. I am currently on Day 4 of cycling it. I am doing a fishless cycle since it seems to be more humane according to other forums I read. I am using Seachem’s guide for cycling where I am dosing it with their Prime and Stability. On Day 1, I added in the fish flakes to make ammonia, do I need to add more in?
When I did the API Freshwater Kit to test the Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate levels (same order as in the picture I attached), everything seems to be zero according to the guide.. I am not sure what I am doing wrong, please help!

Thank you.
i dont reccommend the chemical cycling i tryed and its pointless if i were you i would just let the filter do its job and in a couple weeks or so bb and nitrates and nitrites and amonia should be looking good and dont add the fish till yu know for sure its cycled ive put fish in a uncycled tank and its a whole mess... lemme know how its goes!!!
 

mattgirl

i dont reccommend the chemical cycling i tryed and its pointless if i were you i would just let the filter do its job and in a couple weeks or so bb and nitrates and nitrites and amonia should be looking good and dont add the fish till yu know for sure its cycled ive put fish in a uncycled tank and its a whole mess... lemme know how its goes!!!
I am not sure what you are saying. Adding ammonia isn't adding chemicals. It is simply adding food for the bacteria. The filter isn't going to do its job without an ammonia source.
 

NewFishHelp

I wouldn't expect to see much happening for the first week so give it at least that long. Once it starts going down let it get to or close to zero. When it does get it back up to 2ppm. Continue doing that until you see nitrites. Don't be surprised if you don't see them for up to 3 weeks. You may see them sooner but don't be concerned if you don't.

You will know your cycle is done when you add 2ppm and both the ammonia and nitrites are zero 24 hours after adding the ammonia and you are seeing some nitrates. Time and the numbers will let us know if any water changes will need to be done.
Nothing have happened yet but I am starting to doubt my level of ammonia maybe its too high. I dont have experience with the color chart but is that a 2ppm color or 4ppm?
 

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mattgirl

I can't tell but if you think it is 4ppm change out half the water to get it down to 2ppm. I know it seems like nothing is happening but as long as ammonia is in there something is happening.

BTW: What is your pH level. As long as it is 7 or above you are in good shape. Any lower than that and things will move forward very slowly. If it is 6.5 or below things will pretty well stop.
 

NewFishHelp

I can't tell but if you think it is 4ppm change out half the water to get it down to 2ppm. I know it seems like nothing is happening but as long as ammonia is in there something is happening.

BTW: What is your pH level. As long as it is 7 or above you are in good shape. Any lower than that and things will move forward very slowly. If it is 6.5 or below things will pretty well stop.
Hi, I thought it was 2ppm according to the chart but online others looks slightly cloudy green than mine. Yea my pH level is above a 7 (7.2 ish).
 

mattgirl

Hi, I thought it was 2ppm according to the chart but online others looks slightly cloudy green than mine. Yea my pH level is above a 7 (7.2 ish).
Keep an eye on the pH level throughout the cycling process. It can sometimes cause the pH to drop. If yours does a water change will need to be done to replenish the used up minerals. If water changes alone don't hold it up you may need to run some crushed coral in the filter. We will cross that bridge if we come to it. Right now it is just a matter of testing and time.
 

NewFishHelp

Keep an eye on the pH level throughout the cycling process. It can sometimes cause the pH to drop. If yours does a water change will need to be done to replenish the used up minerals. If water changes alone don't hold it up you may need to run some crushed coral in the filter. We will cross that bridge if we come to it. Right now it is just a matter of testing and time.
I actually just did a pH test right now, I only got 6.6.. yesterday I still had 7, can I just add some more water in? Or how much should I take out?
 

mattgirl

I actually just did a pH test right now, I only got 6.6.. yesterday I still had 7, can I just add some more water in? Or how much should I take out?
I would change out half the water. Run both pH and ammonia test after the water change. If the ammonia is less than 2ppm get it back up. Just adding some water with your pH already being so low from the tap just adding a little bit isn't going to help much.

I am going to recommend you get some crushed coral. Put about 1/2 cup of it in a media bag and put the bag in your filter. It is going to very slowly dissolve and as it does it will stabilize your pH up to the level of your tap water.
 

NewFishHelp

I would change out half the water. Run both pH and ammonia test after the water change. If the ammonia is less than 2ppm get it back up. Just adding some water with your pH already being so low from the tap just adding a little bit isn't going to help much.

I am going to recommend you get some crushed coral. Put about 1/2 cup of it in a media bag and put the bag in your filter. It is going to very slowly dissolve and as it does it will stabilize your pH up to the level of your tap water.
So far I did a 30% change, the pH got up to 6.8-7.0 and the ammonia is a bit lighter green now seems more like 2ppm, I think before it was more 3ppm to 4ppm. Thanks so much should I change out more water still?
 

mattgirl

So far I did a 30% change, the pH got up to 6.8-7.0 and the ammonia is a bit lighter green now seems more like 2ppm, I think before it was more 3ppm to 4ppm. Thanks so much should I change out more water still?
As long as the pH is back up there is no need to do another water change right now. Don't be afraid of doing 50% water changes. As long as you add your water conditioner to the fresh water before pouring it in the tank water changes are not going to affect the cycling process.
 

NewFishHelp

As long as the pH is back up there is no need to do another water change right now. Don't be afraid of doing 50% water changes. As long as you add your water conditioner to the fresh water before pouring it in the tank water changes are not going to affect the cycling process.
I put in only a tiny bit of Prime since they say its 1 capful for 50 gallons, I find it kind of crazy how little that is since it was more or less 2 drops for the 30%... thanks, I'll continue to monitor the tank! :) I hope it starts cycling soon.
 

mattgirl

If 30% means 3 gallon out of a 10 gallon tank I would have added a bit more Prime to the fresh water if you have chlorine in your tap water. I would have added at least 6 drops to the 3 gallons. 2 drops per gallon. We want to be sure the chlorine is neutralized. If not it will kill of the bacteria you are trying to grow.

Adding a bit more than needed is better than not adding quite enough. When I do my water changes I add 1/2ml of prime to each 4 gallon bucket of water before pouring it in the tank. When doing a water change to my 55 gallon tank I fill that 4 gallon bucket 6 times so am adding 3mls of prime with each water change.
 

NewFishHelp

If 30% means 3 gallon out of a 10 gallon tank I would have added a bit more Prime to the fresh water if you have chlorine in your tap water. I would have added at least 6 drops to the 3 gallons. 2 drops per gallon. We want to be sure the chlorine is neutralized. If not it will kill of the bacteria you are trying to grow.

Adding a bit more than needed is better than not adding quite enough. When I do my water changes I add 1/2ml of prime to each 4 gallon bucket of water before pouring it in the tank. When doing a water change to my 55 gallon tank I fill that 4 gallon bucket 6 times so am adding 3mls of prime with each water change.
Is the ammonia suppose to drop at all because mine havent dropped not even a bit... I feel maybe I am not putting enough Seachem Stability, will it be an issue if I put more in than they tell me to? Im getting really worried now :(
 

mattgirl

Often it can take up to 3 weeks for the ammonia to start dropping so just give it more time. Stability may help speed things up but i wouldn't count on it doing much.
 

NewFishHelp

Often it can take up to 3 weeks for the ammonia to start dropping so just give it more time. Stability may help speed things up but i wouldn't count on it doing much.
Im just really concern because my water ph keeps dropping to 6.6, since you said nothing is really going to happen if it gets to that point. Im thinking of buying the API® Proper pH 7.0 Aquarium Water pH Conditioner or Seachem Neutral Regulator..recommended at this point?
 

mattgirl

Im just really concern because my water ph keeps dropping to 6.6, since you said nothing is really going to happen if it gets to that point. Im thinking of buying the API® Proper pH 7.0 Aquarium Water pH Conditioner or Seachem Neutral Regulator..recommended at this point?
Instead of products like that I will again recommend you get some crushed coral. It will stabilize your pH as it very slowly dissolves. Add a handful of it to a media bag and put it in your filter.
 

NewFishHelp

Instead of products like that I will again recommend you get some crushed coral. It will stabilize your pH as it very slowly dissolves. Add a handful of it to a media bag and put it in your filter.
Is there any crushed coral brands you would recommend? My filter isnt that big.. dumb question, where would I put the media bag with the corals? Below is the filter I have.

1083740-center-3.jpg
 

mattgirl

Is there any crushed coral brands you would recommend? My filter isnt that big.. dumb question, where would I put the media bag with the corals? Below is the filter I have.

1083740-center-3.jpg
no specific brand. crushed coral is crushed coral no matter who is selling it. Most folks end up buying aragonite. It is finely crushed coral. Unfortunately it is next to impossible to buy just a small amount of it. I actually bought mine from an ebay seller.and was able to get a small amount of coral chunks. You may want to get some from a seller there. amazon may have some at a decent price. The best option would be if you could get it from your local fish store.

I just did a quick Ebay search and it looks like several sellers are offering small amounts for reasonable prices although once shipping charges are added the price goes up. I prefer using the chunks. Since it looks like there isn't much room in that filter just hang the bag under the output of the filter. We want water running over and through the crushed coral.
 

NewFishHelp

no specific brand. crushed coral is crushed coral no matter who is selling it. Most folks end up buying aragonite. It is finely crushed coral. Unfortunately it is next to impossible to buy just a small amount of it. I actually bought mine from an ebay seller.and was able to get a small amount of coral chunks. You may want to get some from a seller there. amazon may have some at a decent price. The best option would be if you could get it from your local fish store.

I just did a quick Ebay search and it looks like several sellers are offering small amounts for reasonable prices although once shipping charges are added the price goes up. I prefer using the chunks. Since it looks like there isn't much room in that filter just hang the bag under the output of the filter. We want water running over and through the crushed coral.
Okay thanks! I’ll go to my local pet fish shop today to see if they have anything!
 

NewFishHelp

no specific brand. crushed coral is crushed coral no matter who is selling it. Most folks end up buying aragonite. It is finely crushed coral. Unfortunately it is next to impossible to buy just a small amount of it. I actually bought mine from an ebay seller.and was able to get a small amount of coral chunks. You may want to get some from a seller there. amazon may have some at a decent price. The best option would be if you could get it from your local fish store.

I just did a quick Ebay search and it looks like several sellers are offering small amounts for reasonable prices although once shipping charges are added the price goes up. I prefer using the chunks. Since it looks like there isn't much room in that filter just hang the bag under the output of the filter. We want water running over and through the crushed coral.
I finally got a hint of Nitrite 0.25 ppm but my ammonia seems to still be at 2ppm no signs of getting lighter. Should I do a water change at this point to get it down?
 

mattgirl

I finally got a hint of Nitrite 0.25 ppm but my ammonia seems to still be at 2ppm no signs of getting lighter. Should I do a water change at this point to get it down?
If I am remembering correctly there are no fish in this tank so no, you don't need to do another water change. You are still early in the cycle so give it time. Seeing a hint of nitrites is a good sign. It is telling us you have some ammonia eating bacteria growing in the tank. Eventually there will be enough to process all the ammonia.
 

angsess78

NewFishHelp I am going through this right now. I am about 5 weeks in and almost there so I wanted to give you some encouragement to stick with it. You will get there. The people here are kind and have great advice!
 

NewFishHelp

NewFishHelp I am going through this right now. I am about 5 weeks in and almost there so I wanted to give you some encouragement to stick with it. You will get there. The people here are kind and have great advice!
Thanks, glad to know there are others at the same stage as me haha
If I am remembering correctly there are no fish in this tank so no, you don't need to do another water change. You are still early in the cycle so give it time. Seeing a hint of nitrites is a good sign. It is telling us you have some ammonia eating bacteria growing in the tank. Eventually there will be enough to process all the ammonia.
I think I am seeing signs of nitrites now for 2-3 days already but no signs of increase or decrease for ammonia it seems, is my ammonia too high? Test is from today-
 

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mattgirl

Did you get some crushed coral? Counting up the days it seems you started this cycle about 24 days ago. We really can't count the first 2 or 3 days because we are using fish food as our ammonia source. It takes a few days to start seeing ammonia so that gets us right at 3 weeks.

The process slowed down some during the time your pH was so low. Hopefully you added the crushed coral and yours is holding up to no less then 7.

Since you are seeing some nitrites we know some of the ammonia is being processed meaning you have some ammonia eating bacteria. You just don't have enough yet to process all the ammonia.

How much fish food are you putting in there? How often are you adding more? If it is any more than a tiny pinch and any more often than every 3 days you are adding too much
 

NewFishHelp

Did you get some crushed coral? Counting up the days it seems you started this cycle about 24 days ago. We really can't count the first 2 or 3 days because we are using fish food as our ammonia source. It takes a few days to start seeing ammonia so that gets us right at 3 weeks.

The process slowed down some during the time your pH was so low. Hopefully you added the crushed coral and yours is holding up to no less then 7.

Since you are seeing some nitrites we know some of the ammonia is being processed meaning you have some ammonia eating bacteria. You just don't have enough yet to process all the ammonia.

How much fish food are you putting in there? How often are you adding more? If it is any more than a tiny pinch and any more often than every 3 days you are adding too much
Hi! I tested the ph of the water as well and its at a blue of 7.6 or just a bit less. Yes I took your advice with the crushed corals it boosted my ph almost right away. I havent added any types of ammonia since the first time and after I did the 50% water change. I been adding seachem stability everyday half to one capful.
 

mattgirl

Hi! I tested the ph of the water as well and its at a blue of 7.6 or just a bit less. Yes I took your advice with the crushed corals it boosted my ph almost right away. I havent added any types of ammonia since the first time and after I did the 50% water change. I been adding seachem stability everyday half to one capful.
I would hold off on adding any more Stability for now. Let's give the bacteria you have grown a chance to grow. Is there still some fish food decomposing in there? If you've not been adding any I have to wonder why the ammonia isn't going down at all. At 3 weeks it really should be.
 

NewFishHelp

I would hold off on adding any more Stability for now. Let's give the bacteria you have grown a chance to grow. Is there still some fish food decomposing in there? If you've not been adding any I have to wonder why the ammonia isn't going down at all. At 3 weeks it really should be.
There are most likely still some fish food from day 1-2 but I am not sure I see some at the bottom of the tank here and there..I’ll stop adding stability then. Oh gosh I hate to reset the whole thing..
 

mattgirl

There are most likely still some fish food from day 1-2 but I am not sure I see some at the bottom of the tank here and there..I’ll stop adding stability then. Oh gosh I hate to reset the whole thing..
You are not resetting anything. I just read back through the thread and remember you are now using ammonium chloride as your ammonia source. I am assuming you have only added it the one time. Please correct me if I am wrong.

The reason i suggest you stop adding Stability is you have been adding it for about 3 weeks now. If it was going to help cycle this tank it would have done it by now. Apparently it hasn't. It may be affecting the tests.

Now that the pH is up and stable things should have moved farther forward than they have. You should be seeing a decline in ammonia. Nitrites should be more than just a hint of color at this point. I don't know why we are seeing what we are seeing or not seeing.

The only thing I can suggest at this point is give it more time. I do have to ask though. What kind of filter are you running on this tank? Is it moving the water well? We need to be moving the ammonia filled water through the filter. Can you share a photo of your tank with us. Maybe we can see something that will help us get to the bottom of this.
 

NewFishHelp

You are not resetting anything. I just read back through the thread and remember you are now using ammonium chloride as your ammonia source. I am assuming you have only added it the one time. Please correct me if I am wrong.

The reason i suggest you stop adding Stability is you have been adding it for about 3 weeks now. If it was going to help cycle this tank it would have done it by now. Apparently it hasn't. It may be affecting the tests.

Now that the pH is up and stable things should have moved farther forward than they have. You should be seeing a decline in ammonia. Nitrites should be more than just a hint of color at this point. I don't know why we are seeing what we are seeing or not seeing.

The only thing I can suggest at this point is give it more time. I do have to ask though. What kind of filter are you running on this tank? Is it moving the water well? We need to be moving the ammonia filled water through the filter. Can you share a photo of your tank with us. Maybe we can see something that will help us get to the bottom of this.
I meant like having to reset the whole tank and redoing it from the start.
I added in ammonia again after the 50% water change previously to get it back to 2ppm ish.
From what I see in the tank, the water moves a lot but I attached a picture of it below is thats what you mean by moving water. Appreciate the help!
 

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mattgirl

Thankfully you shouldn't have to start from scratch. This cycle is slow but I am sure there is some bacteria in there. Eventually enough will grow. I know it has to be very frustrating but you will get there.

Yes, that is what I meant. It looks like your filter is doing a good job of pulling the water through it. I would fill the tank up but that's just me. I don't like the water fall sound the water makes when the water line isn't up to the bottom of the filter. I keep all my tanks filled to the plastic frame around the top.

I could just read back through the thread but will just ask. How long has it been since you did the last water change? We know your taps pH is fairly low. That tells me it may be pretty low in minerals. We may need to replenish them by doing another water change. The water line in this tank looks like there is only 7 or so gallons of water in there. I would remove 2 gallons and then add enough fresh dechlorinated water to fill the tank up. I suspect it will take close to 5 gallons to fill it back up. This should replenish the minerals and could very well get this cycle moving forward.

Removing 2 gallons isn't going to lower the ammonia enough to have to add more but run the test just to make sure. As long as there is still some ammonia in there don't add anymore. We want to let the bacteria do that.
 

Harraj128

Stick with it NewFishHelp my first ever fishless cycle took ages but mattgirl got me to the cycled stage after a long time of waiting for nitrites to drop. You are in great hands, be patient.

I'd suggest the same thing, water change and top up that tank, also ensure you water isn't running through a softener or anything that may cause such low levels.
 

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