New tank, ammo lock, suddenly no ammonia nitrite or nitrate

FishySailorJoe

Good evening! I'm very new to the hobby and have always admired aquatic life. Glad to finally start getting into it. Please bear with me as this will be long winded.

My situation is, I bought a 10g tank a week ago that came with a 40gph filter and 50w heater, bought declorinator and quick start (also added substrate from the pet store tank) and the API master test kit, live bacteria balls, along with ammo lock and prime more recently, as I've been learning as i go. I assumed it was put water in a tank and let em go, but I sadly lost a betta in 4 hours and quickly tried to educate myself.

I currently have 1 betta Crownfish (male) and recently put a Kuhli Loach and 5 ember tetras in the tank with a 225gph filter (all are currently happy for 24 hrs).

It's been about a week of knowledge and learning the hard way but I've been extremely cautious with testing and water conditions using test straps and drip test tube and googling what each shade means because the chart never perfectly patches the tube. I think I've tested tank water 6 times per day in the past 4 days, and my tap separately as well (untreated and treated tap for variables prior to dechlorinator and after).

My current betta went through a 2 day rough patch where he was laying at the bottom of the tank for about 2 days but wasn't inflamed in his gills. He was eating still, just lazy and it looked like ammonia poisoning (later testing showed 1-2ppm ammonia). It looked like my 1st betta so I was worried.

In my panic I researched my ammo lock dosage and found that up to 10x doses didn't degenerate (or harm?)fish cells in a 4ppm ammonia tank test . So I decided to 4x does the ammo lock (I really didn't want to explain to my kids that daddy killed another family member). I added 2 more bacteria balls as well(I think they were api but I can't remember I know I'm terrible).

Now comes what everyone's gonna ask, tank parameters!

Prior to bacteria and (a lot of)ammo lock (prior to my solo struggling betta alone in tank and same water as the betta who died in 4 hours):
Ph- 7.4-6
Ammonia-1-2ppm
Nitrite-0ppm
Nitrate-0ppm

2 hours After adding 4x ammo lock doses and 2 more bacteria balls (4 balls in 30 hours:
Ph-7.4-6
Ammonia-0ppm
Nitrite-0ppm
Nitrate-0ppm

Now, I may have missed the forum but I searched for a couple days and couldn't find an instance where after adding ammo lock ammonia dropped to zero while nitrite and nitrate were also zero. I haven't done a water change, the betta is happy again, I added the other fish and they've been active and happy for 12 hours (I've sat in front of the tank for most of that lol) and I've done 4 water tests since this morning with the same results....

I'm stumped. What could cause ammonia, nitrite and nitrite to be zero in an uncycled tank thats stocked more than it should? (I'm upgrading this week, please don't yell at me).

Does it take time for nitrites to appear after bacteria eats ammonia? I couldn't find a thing and I hope I'm not too dumb to be missing a simple step. I now know 4-6 weeks fishless is best but I'm in too deep. I also know from research that ammo lock and Prime can skew tests but not in this direction. Ammonium and ammonia should all count in the test so zero ammonia is stumping me, especially since there's no nitrites or nitrates.

First forum post and hopefully my last, hope yall can help thanks!!

-Joe
I'll be sitting in front of Skinny Fin (betta), LL Kuhl J(kuhli Loach) and stripes(tetras) watching baseball if anyone has advice. (Kids named em).

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AggressiveAquatics

I would stop using ammo-lock and switch to seachem prime. Prime detoxifys ammonia but let’s beneficial bacteria eat it while ammo-lock locks up ammonia and it cannot be processed
 
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FishySailorJoe

I would stop using ammo-lock and switch to seachem prime. Prime detoxifys ammonia but let’s beneficial bacteria eat it while ammo-lock locks up ammonia and it cannot be processed
Thank you for the reply.

So ammo lock is messing with my tanks biom? I have Prime now and i know it offers more so I'm not against it. just curious as to why ammo lock would negate ammonia tests in both drip tubes and test strips. Thanks again!
 
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pagoda

Great photo of your fish...but something about them looks weird.

You mentioned Ember Tetras......those do not look like Embers to me. They look more like Black Neons who will probably need an aquarium double the 10g that you have since they are marathon swimmers. Perhaps others here can confirm my suspicions on the Tetra type.

Black Neon's are OK to be with the male Crowntail Betta, but as with all Betta males you might want to keep an eye on him as they can turn on their tankmates without warning, even after being together for several months. If you can get a 20g at a later date, if they are indeed Black Neons, and put lots of sight line blocks (well positioned plants/ornaments etc) then you should have a reasonably peaceful aquarium to enjoy.

Things to watch for with the Crowntail would be excessive food guarding, snappy behaviour, excessive chasing and the other fish becoming less active or timid especially at feeding time.
 
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FishySailorJoe

Great photo of your fish...but something about them looks weird.

You mentioned Ember Tetras......those do not look like Embers to me. They look more like Black Neons who will probably need an aquarium double the 10g that you have since they are marathon swimmers. Perhaps others here can confirm my suspicions on the Tetra type.

Black Neon's are OK to be with the male Crowntail Betta, but as with all Betta males you might want to keep an eye on him as they can turn on their tankmates without warning, even after being together for several months. If you can get a 20g at a later date, if they are indeed Black Neons, and put lots of sight line blocks (well positioned plants/ornaments etc) then you should have a reasonably peaceful aquarium to enjoy.

Things to watch for with the Crowntail would be excessive food guarding, snappy behaviour, excessive chasing and the other fish becoming less active or timid especially at feeding time.
Hmm, that worries me a bit as I thought petsmart seemed knowledgeable when selling me the fish...

On your other suggestion, they're having a sale on tanks and tomorrow I'm buying a 20g (double) tank for the pets.

Your other notes are great and luckily my fish so far have been great, the betta has been chased mostly so far. I plan on keeping him in a solo tank and expanding the community with more inviting stock after a good cycle.
 
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pagoda

Hmm, that worries me a bit as I thought petsmart seemed knowledgeable when selling me the fish...

On your other suggestion, they're having a sale on tanks and tomorrow I'm buying a 20g (double) tank for the pets.

Your other notes are great and luckily my fish so far have been great, the betta has been chased mostly so far. I plan on keeping him in a solo tank and expanding the community with more inviting stock after a good cycle.

If you get a 20g for the Tetras, add a few more Kuhli as they are better with company than on their own. The 10g can be a superb solo aquarium for the Crowntail to enjoy and thrive in.
 
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FishySailorJoe

If you get a 20g for the Tetras, add a few more Kuhli as they are better with company than on their own. The 10g can be a superb solo aquarium for the Crowntail to enjoy and thrive in.
Thanks! That's the plan...

Any idea about my original issue of no ammonia, nitrite or nitrate by chance?
 
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isabeldiwata

I agree with the suggestion to use Prime instead of Ammo Lock. I had a similar experience where my readings were kinda mind boggling to me and I hope these changes help.

I’m still learning too, but once you upgrade, I’d recommend swapping out the decor for some live plants so they can help take up more of the ammonia. I’ve also used Fritz bottled bacteria when starting my tanks - Fritz Zyme 7 and turbo start. I’ve never used those bacteria balls so I’m not really sure how helpful they are, I just know they need to be replaced every so often. Also, make sure your filter has biological media in it. I always add ceramic bio rings to my tanks in a media bag. The huge positive of this is being able to move seeded rings to my new tanks to help avoid some of the cycling issues you’re dealin with.

And those are definitely black neons. Also agree with adding more Kuhli loaches to the 20gal. At least 6 if you have the space and especially if you’re getting a 20gal long
 
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pagoda

Thanks! That's the plan...

Any idea about my original issue of no ammonia, nitrite or nitrate by chance?

Unfortunately, as is often the case, you were given poor information and advice by Petsmart.

To do an average fishless cycle it takes at least 4 weeks.....even with using seeded filter media or substrate. Fish in cycle which you are now doing you can add a few weeks to that. No two aquariums cycle the same, no two aquariums take the same amount of time to cycle. Its a wait, wait and be patient.

No idea why AmmoLock was suggested for a brand new set up but as has already been said...put that in the back of the cupboard and forget about it.

This thread will help you get your aquarium set up perfectly.... mattgirl will be able to assist you further on the pitfalls etc...

Fish In Nitrogen Cycle Simplified | Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Forum | 414083
 
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isabeldiwata

Thanks! That's the plan...

Any idea about my original issue of no ammonia, nitrite or nitrate by chance?

And I’m guessing this is a weird ammo lock issue? Maybe revisit with your readings when you switch to prime?
 
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FishySailorJoe

I agree with the suggestion to use Prime instead of Ammo Lock. I had a similar experience where my readings were kinda mind boggling to me and I hope these changes help.

I’m still learning too, but once you upgrade, I’d recommend swapping out the decor for some live plants so they can help take up more of the ammonia. I’ve also used Fritz bottled bacteria when starting my tanks - Fritz Zyme 7 and turbo start. I’ve never used those bacteria balls so I’m not really sure how helpful they are, I just know they need to be replaced every so often. Also, make sure your filter has biological media in it. I always add ceramic bio rings to my tanks in a media bag. The huge positive of this is being able to move seeded rings to my new tanks to help avoid some of the cycling issues you’re dealin with.

And those are definitely black neons. Also agree with adding more Kuhli loaches to the 20gal. At least 6 if you have the space and especially if you’re getting a 20gal long
Thanks for the tips, I did want more loaches he seemed lonely ( wife said he name is LL Kuhli J now btw)

I'm excited for the upgrade and even more upset with the misguided info I got from the store regarding the fish, I hope they can coexist
 
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pagoda

I totally understand that you are unhappy with the information that you were given in the store...you are not the first and certainly will not be the last on that score.

Once mattgirl gets online later today, she will be able to explain the right way to get things done and advise on the 20g set up too so you'll be in very good hands with her.

Try not to worry, you have come to the right place for good advice and everything will get better....it will take time and patience on your part but you will succeed :)
 
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FishySailorJoe

Unfortunately, as is often the case, you were given poor information and advice by Petsmart.

To do an average fishless cycle it takes at least 4 weeks.....even with using seeded filter media or substrate. Fish in cycle which you are now doing you can add a few weeks to that. No two aquariums cycle the same, no two aquariums take the same amount of time to cycle. Its a wait, wait and be patient.

No idea why AmmoLock was suggested for a brand new set up but as has already been said...put that in the back of the cupboard and forget about it.

This thread will help you get your aquarium set up perfectly.... mattgirl will be able to assist you further on the pitfalls etc...

Fish In Nitrogen Cycle Simplified | Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Forum | 414083
Thanks... I spent a bunch of money in a short time on a betta, as I'm sure many have. I just feel bad the other guy died due to my ignorance and I'm happy to have the critical feedback from the group. I've literally never had a forum post in my life if thats any indication of how serious I am of doing this right. Thanks again!
 
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pagoda

Thanks... I spent a bunch of money in a short time on a betta, as I'm sure many have. I just feel bad the other guy died due to my ignorance and I'm happy to have the critical feedback from the group. I've literally never had a forum post in my life if thats any indication of how serious I am of doing this right. Thanks again!

When you had the other Betta...was he bought at the same time as the Crowntail and share his aquarium or was he on his own before he passed away?

Reason I ask is that you must never place two male Betta in the same aquarium, they fight to the death, hence their other name...Siamese Fighting Fish. It is a sport in Asia to fight these fish, don't ever place two males together.
 
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FishySailorJoe

I totally understand that you are unhappy with the information that you were given in the store...you are not the first and certainly will not be the last on that score.

Once mattgirl gets online later today, she will be able to explain the right way to get things done and advise on the 20g set up too so you'll be in very good hands with her.

Try not to worry, you have come to the right place for good advice and everything will get better....it will take time and patience on your part but you will succeed :)
Thats amazing and I'm happy this forum is the first I've joined for anythbig in my life!

Should I transfer the fish to the 20gal once it's water parameters are good or wait for a fishless cycle? Guess it's another thread topic? All my fish are happy and active in the 10g now I just worry now that I know more that they might be crowded.

I also don't want to do too much as I've learned the smallest changes can devastate our tiny friends.
 
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isabeldiwata

I’m sure mattgirl will have the answers for you, but if it were me, I’d go for a fishless cycle in the 20. It’s always good to avoid the risk in my opinion.

wishing you luck and echoing everything pagoda said - you got this!
 
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pagoda

Thats amazing and I'm happy this forum is the first I've joined for anythbig in my life!

Should I transfer the fish to the 20gal once it's water parameters are good or wait for a fishless cycle? Guess it's another thread topic? All my fish are happy and active in the 10g now I just worry now that I know more that they might be crowded.

I also don't want to do too much as I've learned the smallest changes can devastate our tiny friends.

Set the 20g up but don't add fish until it is fully cycled....if you do it without seeding, you'll be waiting for around 6 to 8 weeks. The 10g is now going to be a fish-in cycle and will probably take a bit longer than that, thanks mainly to the bad advice given at the store with the AmmoLock killing all the good bacteria that had come with the store's substrate.

mattgirl will be online in a few hours time, she is US based, she will walk you right through the process, so try not to get too wound up or confused by it all, OK. This will take a fair amount of time and patience to set up both aquariums.
 
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FishySailorJoe

When you had the other Betta...was he bought at the same time as the Crowntail and share his aquarium or was he on his own before he passed away?
I bought the first fish with the tank setup. He died in 4 hours and I was shocked. Did a but ton of research and bought the second. I put him in later the same day before I did enough research to realize ammonia was a thing, and it's blossomed from there. I've been on leave and have basically neglected my family with how dedicated I've grown to ensuring a basic aquatic setup. Kinda sad, but my kids really love the fish and I hate not understanding the needs of my new pets fully, hence the forum which is foreign to me.
 
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isabeldiwata

To add one more thing, starting a tank is sloooow work and a real test of patience. More often than not, you’ll need to wait awhile after any change to your tank to see parameters change significantly.
 
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pagoda

I bought the first fish with the tank setup. He died in 4 hours and I was shocked. Did a but ton of research and bought the second. I put him in later the same day before I did enough research to realize ammonia was a thing, and it's blossomed from there. I've been on leave and have basically neglected my family with how dedicated I've grown to ensuring a basic aquatic setup. Kinda sad, but my kids really love the fish and I hate not understanding the needs of my new pets fully, hence the forum which is foreign to me.

OK so am I right in thinking that the Crowntail is a store replacement for the one that was lost.

I can tell that you are really upset and angry over what has happened and no doubt the kids are upset by it all too. You have come to the right place and you can get this sorted out with help from people here. Don't beat yourself up, you were not to know and the store have not been helpful but this is not insurmountable. We have caught things early enough to turn it around which is the main thing, OK.

You'll get there, stay positive :)
 
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FishySailorJoe

Set the 20g up but don't add fish until it is fully cycled....if you do it without seeding, you'll be waiting for around 6 to 8 weeks. The 10g is now going to be a fish-in cycle and will probably take a bit longer than that, thanks mainly to the bad advice given at the store with the AmmoLock killing all the good bacteria that had come with the store's substrate.

mattgirl will be online in a few hours time, she is US based, she will walk you right through the process, so try not to get too wound up or confused by it all, OK. This will take a fair amount of time and patience to set up both aquariums.
Ok I have prepared my mentality for that possibily since yesterday and I'm totally alright with it. Seems fishless cycle is easy and I'd rather not over stress my current friends by changing their world again in a tank not ready for them.

I'll be up in a few hours and will check the forum again for mattgirl advice. I. The mean time I honestly appreciate everyone's feedback thus far!

To recap, should 0 ammonia nitrite and nitrate in an overstocked uncycled tank worry me?? Ammolock killed ammonia is what I feel the general concensus is.
OK so am I right in thinking that the Crowntail is a store replacement for the one that was lost.

I can tell that you are really upset and angry over what has happened and no doubt the kids are upset by it all too. You have come to the right place and you can get this sorted out with help from people here. Don't beat yourself up, you were not to know and the store have not been helpful but this is not insurmountable. We have caught things early enough to turn it around which is the main thing, OK.

You'll get there, stay positive :)
Thanks I'm glad I signed up for the forum...

I'm just glad the current fish seem to be thriving even tho water tests confuse me. Thanks again...
 
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isabeldiwata

To recap, should 0 ammonia nitrite and nitrate in an overstocked uncycled tank worry me?? Ammolock killed ammonia is what I feel the general concensus is.
With AmmoLock still in the tank, I don’t think your fish are at immediate risk. Transitioning off of it might be the challenge though and you’ll have expert help in doing that!
Hold tight for now :)
 
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pagoda

Ok I have prepared my mentality for that possibily since yesterday and I'm totally alright with it. Seems fishless cycle is easy and I'd rather not over stress my current friends by changing their world again in a tank not ready for them.

I'll be up in a few hours and will check the forum again for mattgirl advice. I. The mean time I honestly appreciate everyone's feedback thus far!

To recap, should 0 ammonia nitrite and nitrate in an overstocked uncycled tank worry me?? Ammolock killed ammonia is what I feel the general concensus is.

Thanks I'm glad I signed up for the forum...

I'm just glad the current fish seem to be thriving even tho water tests confuse me. Thanks again...

For the time being, at least til mattgirl is online and can advise you further, things should be alright for the few hours til she is back online. If you have Prime you could do a 50% water change following the instructions on the bottle BUT if you don't have Prime yet, I would leave things as they are til you are back onsite and when Mattgirl is able to assist you fully.
 
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GlennO

I think ammo lock lasts for about 2 days. After that you should start getting some ammonia readings again and your cycle can restart. You could do a partial water change if you’re impatient, it might help get it going quicker. They are definitely black neons.
 
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FishySailorJoe

With AmmoLock still in the tank, I don’t think your fish are at immediate risk. Transitioning off of it might be the challenge though and you’ll have expert help in doing that!
Hold tight for now :)
Thats the flip side I was worried about. 48 hour lifespan of ammo lock according to the bottle.
For the time being, at least til mattgirl is online and can advise you further, things should be alright for the few hours til she is back online. If you have Prime you could do a 50% water change following the instructions on the bottle BUT if you don't have Prime yet, I would leave things as they are til you are back onsite and when Mattgirl is able to assist you fully.
I'll try that in the morning, just checked the little swimmers and they seem fine. Ammo lock bottle says 2 days. After that I'm afraid ammonia will spike. I have Prime and will use it (does 3 things other stuff I got does plus nitrites) instead of ammo lock if ammonia spikes tomorrow.

I'm lucky to be home until the 28th for these guys. Also lucky for the quick replies, thought I'd get lost in the shuffle.
 
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GlennO

Thats the flip side I was worried about. 48 hour lifespan of ammo lock according to the bottle.

Nothing to be worried about. But it is a fish-in cycle. Be prepared for lots of water testing and water changes. For about 6 to 8 weeks. :)
 
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pagoda

It'll be OK, try not to worry. We'll get you and the fish through this mess.....might not be pretty and I can't guarantee all fish will come through it but tween everyone here we will help you every step of the way.
 
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mattgirl

First, Welcome to Fishlore and Thank you for your service. :)

If you have read the thread pagoda linked you to you now have a better idea as to what needs to be done to do a fish in cycle. Cycling a tank is a simple process once it is understood. I know right now it feels pretty overwhelming but we can help you get there. It is good that you already have Prime. Are you using the API master test kit? or something else?

You have already been advised to stop adding ammo-lock so I won't go into that. Just follow that great advice.

I am not sure where the ammonia you were seeing went. If it was there you should still see it even after adding ammo-lock or Prime. One thing I will advise. Just run the tests once a day. You will drive yourself crazy testing multiple times a day.

You are not the first nor will you be the last to have gotten bad advice from a pet/fish store. Here we have nothing to gain other than the satisfaction of helping someone provide a safe home for their water pets.

I will be away from the computer for a few hours today. Time for my yearly checkup but I will be back this afternoon. Hopefully both you and I will be here at the same time so we can "talk" this through. In the meantime read and try to understand what it takes to do a fish in cycle. They are frowned on by some but are totally doable with no harm coming to the fish but water changes and lots of them must be done :)

Fish In Nitrogen Cycle Simplified | Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Forum | 414083
 
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FishySailorJoe

First, Welcome to Fishlore and Thank you for your service. :)

If you have read the thread pagoda linked you to you now have a better idea as to what needs to be done to do a fish in cycle. Cycling a tank is a simple process once it is understood. I know right now it feels pretty overwhelming but we can help you get there. It is good that you already have Prime. Are you using the API master test kit? or something else?

You have already been advised to stop adding ammo-lock so I won't go into that. Just follow that great advice.

I am not sure where the ammonia you were seeing went. If it was there you should still see it even after adding ammo-lock or Prime. One thing I will advise. Just run the tests once a day. You will drive yourself crazy testing multiple times a day.

You are not the first nor will you be the last to have gotten bad advice from a pet/fish store. Here we have nothing to gain other than the satisfaction of helping someone provide a safe home for their water pets.

I will be away from the computer for a few hours today. Time for my yearly checkup but I will be back this afternoon. Hopefully both you and I will be here at the same time so we can "talk" this through. In the meantime read and try to understand what it takes to do a fish in cycle. They are frowned on by some but are totally doable with no harm coming to the fish but water changes and lots of them must be done :)

Fish In Nitrogen Cycle Simplified | Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Forum | 414083
Good morning and thanks!

I pulled up the link, going to go through that now. It is a bit overwhelming but I dont think it'll be terrible with water changes and once a day testing to control water parameters... I'll slow that testing down lol.

Also, I'm using the API master test kit test tubes. I also have the test strips but i dont use them much since i have the other one.

Thank you!!
 
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mattgirl

Good morning and thanks!

I pulled up the link, going to go through that now. It is a bit overwhelming but I dont think it'll be terrible with water changes and once a day testing to control water parameters... I'll slow that testing down lol.

Also, I'm using the API master test kit test tubes. I also have the test strips but i dont use them much since i have the other one.

Thank you!!
Right now the most important thing you need to be doing is keeping the ammonia as low as possible with water changes. Once all the ammo-lock is out of there it should be fairly easy to do. Be sure you temp match and add Prime to all fresh water going in this tank if you have chlorine/chloramines in your tap water. While the tank is cycling and you are seeing ammonia add enough Prime to treat the full tank each time. Once the cycle is complete and you are no longer seeing ammonia you just have to add it to the water you are replacing.

Once you start seeing nitrites you want to keep nitrites plus ammonia down below one. If you have .25 ammonia and .75 nitrites you are at one and need to do a 50% water change to get them back down to safer levels. Prime is going to detox the amount left after the water change. Both are still going to show up in the test tube but they will be in a safer form.

Over time you will start seeing 0 ammonia but will still see nitrites. This tells you that you have enough ammonia eating bacteria to process all the ammonia the fish are producing through to nitrites. About this time you can start testing for nitrates or you can wait until the nitrites start going down. If you have no nitrates in your tap water you aren't going to see any until the nitrites rise and then start going down.

Testing for nitrates really isn't that important since the water changes are going to keep them low but it will be nice to start seeing them. Keep an eye on the pH level throughout the cycling process. It has been known to lower the pH level. Again, the water changes should keep them up close to your tap water reading. We want to see it 7 or above.
 
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FishySailorJoe

ok it seems simple for the most part the way you explain it here and in your other linked post (which was great btw). continue to check ammonia levels, do frequent water changes (treating with Prime), and wait for the nitrites to show up eventually.

My tap comes out about 7.4-7.6ph and shows roughly .25ppm ammonia. I assume this is from chloramine in the water i'm not sure, but it means i'll never be able to dilute the water enough to get lower than .25ppm ammonia in the cycle process right? as long as Prime is added it should be ok regardless is my take.

Also, how much ppm does Prime actually detox before it's not effective? I understand to keep it under a combined 1ppm between ammonia and nitrites i'm just curious is all.

and once again thank you for simplifying this process!!
Right now the most important thing you need to be doing is keeping the ammonia as low as possible with water changes. Once all the ammo-lock is out of there it should be fairly easy to do. Be sure you temp match and add Prime to all fresh water going in this tank if you have chlorine/chloramines in your tap water. While the tank is cycling and you are seeing ammonia add enough Prime to treat the full tank each time. Once the cycle is complete and you are no longer seeing ammonia you just have to add it to the water you are replacing.

Once you start seeing nitrites you want to keep nitrites plus ammonia down below one. If you have .25 ammonia and .75 nitrites you are at one and need to do a 50% water change to get them back down to safer levels. Prime is going to detox the amount left after the water change. Both are still going to show up in the test tube but they will be in a safer form.

Over time you will start seeing 0 ammonia but will still see nitrites. This tells you that you have enough ammonia eating bacteria to process all the ammonia the fish are producing through to nitrites. About this time you can start testing for nitrates or you can wait until the nitrites start going down. If you have no nitrates in your tap water you aren't going to see any until the nitrites rise and then start going down.

Testing for nitrates really isn't that important since the water changes are going to keep them low but it will be nice to start seeing them. Keep an eye on the pH level throughout the cycling process. It has been known to lower the pH level. Again, the water changes should keep them up close to your tap water reading. We want to see it 7 or above.
oh also once more question!

When water changing during the cycle, do i treat the water before introducing it to the tank, or treat the tank then add the water? I don't want to kill off the bacteria...
 
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mattgirl

ok it seems simple for the most part the way you explain it here and in your other linked post (which was great btw). continue to check ammonia levels, do frequent water changes (treating with Prime), and wait for the nitrites to show up eventually.

My tap comes out about 7.4-7.6ph and shows roughly .25ppm ammonia. I assume this is from chloramine in the water i'm not sure, but it means i'll never be able to dilute the water enough to get lower than .25ppm ammonia in the cycle process right? as long as Prime is added it should be ok regardless is my take.
pH is good. The low amount of ammonia in your water shouldn't be a problem. Once the cycle is done the bacteria will clear it out quickly after a water change. Prime is going to help both now and once the cycle is done.
Also, how much ppm does Prime actually detox before it's not effective? I understand to keep it under a combined 1ppm between ammonia and nitrites i'm just curious is all.
I have to admit, I really don't know. Hopefully we won't let it get high enough to have to find out. :)

and once again thank you for simplifying this process!!
You are so very welcome. I am happy to help.

oh also once more question!

When water changing during the cycle, do i treat the water before introducing it to the tank, or treat the tank then add the water? I don't want to kill off the bacteria...
Add the prime to the water before pouring it in the tank. We don't want any water going in there with chlorine or chloramines in it. It will kill off the bacteria we are trying to grow.
 
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FishySailorJoe

pH is good. The low amount of ammonia in your water shouldn't be a problem. Once the cycle is done the bacteria will clear it out quickly after a water change. Prime is going to help both now and once the cycle is done.

I have to admit, I really don't know. Hopefully we won't let it get high enough to have to find out. :)


You are so very welcome. I am happy to help.


Add the prime to the water before pouring it in the tank. We don't want any water going in there with chlorine or chloramines in it. It will kill of the bacteria we are trying to grow.
Thank you so much you're amazing! I think you've covered everything for me to get going. I'll admit, after reading some of your posts Fish-in cycling seems the better choice. Just wish i would've known better before starting. Thanks again!!
 
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mattgirl

Thank you so much you're amazing! I think you've covered everything for me to get going. I'll admit, after reading some of your posts Fish-in cycling seems the better choice. Just wish i would've known better before starting. Thanks again!!
You are so very welcome. And Thank you for the kind words. :)

Don't be a stranger. If you have questions I will try to answer them. Updates on the progress of the cycle are great. I love reading happy endings.
 
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isabeldiwata

Updates on the progress of the cycle are great. I love reading happy endings.

Same here! I would love to know what happens. Good luck :)
 
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