New fishtank problem - Molly

Discussion in 'Molly' started by meinhardte, Jul 30, 2015.

  1. meinhardteNew MemberMember

    Hi! I have just started up with my first and new fish tank. After years of wanting a fishtank, I treated myself with a 20 gal. Marineland Aquraium. I set it up with (i think) proper decorations, I installed a water heather, air pump and led lighting.

    I applied Marineland aquaraium bacteria and conditioner in proper doses and left it cycling a weekend.

    Then I bought a Pleco, 5 neon tetras. A couple of days after, I bought 5 neon tetras. All of them died within a week. :(

    I performed a partial water change (about 30%), added Marineland EasyCare in proper dose and bought a couple of silver mollies.

    One of them was pregnant!!! and give birth to 5 fry (that I could find). I ran over the petsmart I bought a breeding box so the fry would be safe. 2 next day, first Molly died, next day the other. I'd only got the fry.

    After a couple days more, they started to die, now I have only one left (a fighter) that seems to be struggling deeply to keep alive.

    I don't know what to do, I've never expected to take care of fry before since I hoped to gain lot of experience before even trying to breed fishes.

    Since yesterday it seems to be getting worse. I can even see its tiny fins a little broken, I don't know. I'll post a picture I took for you to take a look. You can even watch a short video I took form it at:  

    Any help will be really appreciated!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Anders247

    Anders247Fishlore LegendMember

    Welcome to fishlore!
    Do you know the nitrogen cycle? It sounds to me like your tank isn't cycled.
    Sorry for the losses of the neons. They are a sensitive fish and will not do well in high temps or in new, uncycled tanks like yours. What type of pleco?
     
  3. OP
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    meinhardteNew MemberMember

    Thank you Anders for your quick answer.

    It was a rubber mouth pleco. The temp of the tank keeps between 79-81 degrees. It has been running for almost a month already, actually it has started to appear algae on the walls.

    Do you have any comment about the little fry? What should I do?
     




  4. Anders247

    Anders247Fishlore LegendMember

    So it's dying and is the only one left? What are your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings? And what is the pH?
     
  5. OP
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    meinhardteNew MemberMember

    Yes, is the only one left. Nitrate is below 10ppm, Nitrite is below 0.2ppm, PH is around 7.5, alkalinity is around 180ppm, chlorine is 0 and hardness is around 180ppm.
     




  6. Anders247

    Anders247Fishlore LegendMember

  7. OP
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    meinhardteNew MemberMember

    Yes, I'm using test strips. Ammonia level is below 0.02ppm.

    Here I post an image of my fish tank, and a picture that I took to both the dead pleco and the last molly. I wonder if that green stuff in the Molly's fin is normal.

     

     
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 23, 2018
  8. BornThisWayBettas

    BornThisWayBettasFishlore VIPMember

    Welcome to Fish Lore!!!! Good to have you here! :D

    Sorry about the loss of your neons. :'( I agree with Anders, they are very sensitive fish. I lost all of mine soon after getting them. And I'm sorry about the molly and fry, too. :console:

    The test strips are very inaccurate, I'm afraid. You'll be much better off with a liquid test kit, the most frequently recommended one on here is the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. Not only is it more accurate, but it'll also save you money in the long run.

    Also, if you haven't already, reading up on the nitrogen cycle would be a good idea.
     
  9. OP
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    meinhardteNew MemberMember

    Thank you, nice advise! I'll get the API master kit.

    Any advise other than that to keep the fry alive?
     
  10. BornThisWayBettas

    BornThisWayBettasFishlore VIPMember

    Sorry, I don't know much about keeping fry alive. :)
     
  11. Matt68046

    Matt68046Valued MemberMember

    Did they become clamped or "pin tail" before they died?
    You have to provide some symptoms for me here....
    I can help, but i need exact and all symptoms.....
    My guess thus far is tail rot, brought on by poor water quality and stress from ammonia/nitrite. Your probably better off just dropping the fry in some ice water and starting again, no need for it to suffer.
     
  12. OP
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    meinhardteNew MemberMember

    Thank you for answering Matt,

    Last fry have just died :shock: I really had my hopes on it! :(

    I'm not a fish expert, so I don't feel capable of identifying wrong behaviors or symptoms, but I recorded a small video of the last fry:  

    Here is a picture of the last dead molly. You can see a green shade in its lateral fin, is that normal?


     

    Now that I have no fish, should I perform a full water change?, what do you recommend?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 23, 2018
  13. Matt68046

    Matt68046Valued MemberMember

    oh wow he was riddled with ick.
    I reccomend turning up the heat a massive PWC and vacuming and going to walmart to get some "ick Cure" its like 3 dollars.
     
  14. OP
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    meinhardteNew MemberMember

    Oh wow! seriously?!? but ick doesn't show white spots?

    Should I turn on the heat to what temp?

    When you say a massive PWC how much do you recommend?

    Thank you!
     
  15. Matt68046

    Matt68046Valued MemberMember

    like take the tank down to a few inches of water, whilest vacuming. Raise the heater to like 90 and dose with some ick cure. Healthy doses of AQ salt should help too.
    Im not sure your question? Yes, ick presents as white spots, that video showed tons of white spots on your molly.
    As always, remember to unplug your heater when doing big water changes or taking the tank down. They will burn and shatter. Just thought id tell you coz your new to the hobby and this is a frequnt dangerous beginner mistake.
     
  16. Jsigmo

    JsigmoWell Known MemberMember

    I'm not seeing the ICH in the photos or the video, but maybe I'm missing something. I can't view the first video. It either won't load or it says the file is corrupt. I'm also unfamiliar with the website and can't help being worried that it could be an attack site. Can you post to youtube?

    What I do see (once I figured out that the video was shot sideways) was tons of crud floating on the water surface. Is that food?

    I also see scum on the surface that indicates that the water surface is not being disrupted. With the surface undisturbed and stagnant with a coating of scum, oils, or protein - no oxygen transfer can take place. The fish need oxygen, and so do the beneficial bacteria that you need in a healthy aquarium system - mainly in your filter(s).

    And that brings up the question of if your aquarium has any filter. None was mentioned in any of the posts. A filter (or several filters) is essential.

    Since there are no fish, it can't hurt to tear the tank down completely and start over after disinfecting everything thoroughly with bleach. Disinfection is easy when you are not trying to keep fish in the aquarium at the same time.

    But you must be sure to remove all traces of the bleach before trying to start again.

    And you can just discard the substrate or other difficult to clean and disinfect items.

    And that brings up the question of how you are treating the tap water before adding it to the aquarium. If the tap water has chlorine or chloramine in it, you must treat that when adding it to the aquarium. You mentioned a couple of marineland products, so you may have that covered, it's just that I am not familiar with them.

    Everyone here can help you get started right this time.

    Once you get everything disinfected or replaced, you will want to make sure you have the essential items.

    A liquid test kit will be good to get.

    And a good filter or two (so you have a backup in case of a failure of one) will be required.

    Welcome to Fishlore. I'm sure everyone will help you to get started right.

    Meanwhile, do read the articles about the nitrogen cycle on here.

    Sorry things didn't go well at first. Most people have problems starting out. I'm glad you found this forum.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2015
  17. Matt68046

    Matt68046Valued MemberMember

    Jsigmo, you mean to tell me you cant see the ick on this poor molly fry?  
     
  18. OP
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    meinhardteNew MemberMember

    Hi! thank you for your answer.

    You can see the video of the fry here:  

    Ok, I went to the petstore I bought the API Freshwater Master Kit; the measures shown:

    PH = 8.1ppm
    Ammonia = 0ppm
    Nitrite = 0ppm
    Nitrate = 5.0ppm
    Chlorine = 0ppm

    As instructed, I turned on the heat and now the water temp is 90 degrees.

    Water is totally clear and clean.

    I bought new filter cartridges, aquarium salt and a all-in-one remedy that attack a broad range of fish diseases, including ick.

    I'm gonna add the salt and the remedy, and perform a PWC of about 10%. Thew remedy dose last for 5 days, so if anyone have any other recommendation, I will try to get a couple new fishes after this period hoping this works.
     
  19. BornThisWayBettas

    BornThisWayBettasFishlore VIPMember

    Just jumping in to say that unlike the manufacturers will tell you, you don't actually need to replace your filter media every month. A quick swishing around in a bucket of old tank water will do whenever it gets really dirty. When you throw away your filter media you throw out your cycle, because you're throwing away all the beneficial bacteria. :)
     
  20. OP
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    meinhardteNew MemberMember

    Thank you!

    Actually the filter that I use is a Marineland Penguin 150, which has a biofilter apart from the carbon activated filter. The manufacturer recommends changing the carbon filter once every 2 weeks to a month, but the biofilter never has to be change (under normal use circumstances).
     




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