10 Gallon Tank New betta, clamped fins and resting and hiding

Hi guys,

I had a sick betta I rescued last month which lead me to join the forum and you wonderful people were very helpful. He eventually passed as he was already very sick when I got him but I learned a lot in the process.

I've now purchased a young 3-4 month male koi betta. He arrived with his fins clamped. I transferred him into his acclimation bowl and I drip acclimated him. He also immediately ate some fish flakes in that bowl while acclimating. His home is a fully cycled 10g planted tank. There are a few tetras and a couple of adult and baby cherry shrimp.

Water parameters:
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 5ppm
Temp: 81

I put him in the tank last night and since then I've made note of the following:
- fins seems clamped
- his body seems to tilt vertically slightly when he stops swimming
- he's eating well and exploring. I've seen him now eat flakes, blood worms and even betta pellets.
- he seems to glass surf
- he seems to occasionally flash and run against driftwood and plants
- he rests a lot. Whenever I go to check up on him, he's either laying on his leaf bed that he seems to like (picture attached) or at the bottom of the tank under some almond leaves

Does he just need time to adjust to a new environment? Or does this require treatment? I have a small hospital tank and have stress guard on hand. Any and all advice is appreciated!

 

The glass surfing is pretty normal in a new tank. A lot of the rest could be part of adjusting. New tank, tankmates, etc...and if he was shipped, thats a lot of stressful things in a short time for a fish.

 

I would say there's a parasitic issue if hes flashing constantly (as in after he's already been with you for a few days). My betta did the same thing when I first got him, he shipped from Texas to Pennsylvania. I couldn't figure out why he was flashing. I used paraguard and prazipro and he still was flashing and eventually clamped his dorsal fin. Two days later he came down with dropsy and during his dropsy treatment I realized he had hole in head which explained the scratching and also why paraguard and prazi didn't help (needed general cure). I would just keep an eye on him for a few days, he definitely needs time to settle in and get more accustomed to your water. If you still observe flashing I would start by trying paraguard as it is extremely gentle and can be used proactively when introducing new fish. If that doesn't help I would move on to prazi which is also gentle. Keep an eye on his fins for issues, try a flashlight to check for velvet, and look for pinholes on his head. I wish I would have been more thorough with looking mine over after I acclimated him but hole in head is easy to miss.

 

I honestly would give him a few days to adjust to his new environment, it sounds like you may have got him by mail, which could definitely have stressed him out. That being said if he is eating, then I'm sure he's well on his way to enjoying his new home (which sounds like a sweet setup by the way!)

 

I would say there's a parasitic issue if hes flashing constantly (as in after he's already been with you for a few days). My betta did the same thing when I first got him, he shipped from Texas to Pennsylvania. I couldn't figure out why he was flashing. I used paraguard and prazipro and he still was flashing and eventually clamped his dorsal fin. Two days later he came down with dropsy and during his dropsy treatment I realized he had hole in head which explained the scratching and also why paraguard and prazi didn't help (needed general cure). I would just keep an eye on him for a few days, he definitely needs time to settle in and get more accustomed to your water. If you still observe flashing I would start by trying paraguard as it is extremely gentle and can be used proactively when introducing new fish. If that doesn't help I would move on to prazi which is also gentle. Keep an eye on his fins for issues, try a flashlight to check for velvet, and look for pinholes on his head. I wish I would have been more thorough with looking mine over after I acclimated him but hole in head is easy to miss.

Today is day 4. He's still occasionally rubbing against heater and plants still. He also glass surfs a lot. He seems very interested in food and eats whatever he finds or when I see him come up I'll give him a few pellets. I've seen him exploring the tank and going in and out of plants. I don't know if I should maybe quarantine him and medicate as he's still clamped, glass surfing, and rubbing objects.

I honestly would give him a few days to adjust to his new environment, it sounds like you may have got him by mail, which could definitely have stressed him out. That being said if he is eating, then I'm sure he's well on his way to enjoying his new home (which sounds like a sweet setup by the way!)

Thanks! He was indeed shipped by mail but it was a local shop in my city so transit was just one day. Even that one day in sure added a lot of stress. Maybe that plus the community tank.. As my message above, I just don't know if I should isolate him and treat as he's still clamped and rubbing objects.

Added updated pics. Any and all advice is appreciated!

 

What kind of tank is this? (Looks like a Fluval edge or something like it.) It looks like he tries to come up for air, but can't. I would lower the water level a tad bit. Bettas still need to be able to come up for air. That might also be the reason for glass surfing.

I would do frequent water changes and monitor if he keeps flashing. Unless you know what you are treating for, I wouldn't start meds, yet.

 

Today is day 4. He's still occasionally rubbing against heater and plants still. He also glass surfs a lot. He seems very interested in food and eats whatever he finds or when I see him come up I'll give him a few pellets. I've seen him exploring the tank and going in and out of plants. I don't know if I should maybe quarantine him and medicate as he's still clamped, glass surfing, and rubbing objects.



Thanks! He was indeed shipped by mail but it was a local shop in my city so transit was just one day. Even that one day in sure added a lot of stress. Maybe that plus the community tank.. As my message above, I just don't know if I should isolate him and treat as he's still clamped and rubbing objects.

Added updated pics. Any and all advice is appreciated! View attachment 770687View attachment 770688

I second the other member lowering the water level for sure. He needs adequate room between the lid and water surface to gulp air. Typically I don't like using flush mount lids with bettas because a lot of condensation builds up making the air they gulp suuuuper humid. Those fins are really really clamped. I would honestly try prazipro to see if it's flukes. Usually when my fish clamp that hard and also have flashing episodes it was always skin flukes. Prazi is a gentle treatment that is okay with plants and doesn't adversely affect your filter bed, and IMO poses no harm by treating even if you aren't 100% sure. Without a microscope and scale scrape/biopsy we as fish keepers can never be 100% on what we are trying to treat.

 

What kind of tank is this? (Looks like a Fluval edge or something like it.) It looks like he tries to come up for air, but can't. I would lower the water level a tad bit. Bettas still need to be able to come up for air. That might also be the reason for glass surfing.

I would do frequent water changes and monitor if he keeps flashing. Unless you know what you are treating for, I wouldn't start meds, yet.

It is indeed a fluval edge. I also wondered this but I watched him for a while and he seemed to figure out where the opening was and would go there to get air. After your recommendation, I just lowered the water level and left a few cm of air between the top glass. He's also mainly surfing the glass on the sides of the tank.

I did a 20-30% water change today and the only difference I'm noticing in him since then (which is a few hours) is that he's chilling and hanging out at the surface of water, instead of hanging out in his anubias or in almond leaves.

I second the other member lowering the water level for sure. He needs adequate room between the lid and water surface to gulp air. Typically I don't like using flush mount lids with bettas because a lot of condensation builds up making the air they gulp suuuuper humid. Those fins are really really clamped. I would honestly try prazipro to see if it's flukes. Usually when my fish clamp that hard and also have flashing episodes it was always skin flukes. Prazi is a gentle treatment that is okay with plants and doesn't adversely affect your filter bed, and IMO poses no harm by treating even if you aren't 100% sure. Without a microscope and scale scrape/biopsy we as fish keepers can never be 100% on what we are trying to treat.

Unfortunately prazipro or praziquantel aren't available over the counter in Canada.. They require a vet prescription. I do have seachem stress guard and hikari betta revive, which includes:

Ingredients
Water, neomycin sulfate (<10%), methylene blue (<0.5%), proprietary polymer mixture, buffers, EDTA, malachite green chloride (<0.01%), cyanocobalamin and electrolytes.

Should I start him in a course of this? Label says it's treats bacterial, fungal and protozoan diseases.

 

It is indeed a fluval edge. I also wondered this but I watched him for a while and he seemed to figure out where the opening was and would go there to get air. After your recommendation, I just lowered the water level and left a few cm of air between the top glass. He's also mainly surfing the glass on the sides of the tank.

I did a 20-30% water change today and the only difference I'm noticing in him since then (which is a few hours) is that he's chilling and hanging out at the surface of water, instead of hanging out in his anubias or in almond leaves.



Unfortunately prazipro or praziquantel aren't available over the counter in Canada.. They require a vet prescription. I do have seachem stress guard and hikari betta revive, which includes:

Ingredients
Water, neomycin sulfate (<10%), methylene blue (<0.5%), proprietary polymer mixture, buffers, EDTA, malachite green chloride (<0.01%), cyanocobalamin and electrolytes.

Should I start him in a course of this? Label says it's treats bacterial, fungal and protozoan diseases.

Typically methylene blue doesn't have a use for flukes however it does have benefits for other parasitic protozoans so yes I would go ahead and try that. I always forget other countries the UK especially have an extremely tight lid on the antibiotic medications for aquariums my apologies! You may also want to take a flashlight to him and check for signs of velvet, which is another possibility. If it is velvet then the methylene blue in your med could knock that out.

 

I am not familiar with betta revive. If it's something other than flukes, the meds in it might help your little guy out. I hope he feels better soon.

 

Glass surfing, do you have the lights on?
If there is some reflection it may stress him? Try to have lights on in the room and leave lights out inside the tank.

 

Ok, so I decided to move him to the quarantine tank and started him on Hikari Betta Revive + Stressguard. Today is day 2 of treatment and I've noticed a mark on his head that's worrying me. It was there when I got him but I feel like it's getting bigger..is this hold in the head disease? Pics and video below

 

Being that he is a koi he has the marbling gene and may or may not change coloration as he gets older. To me it looks like he's getting a red colored patch on his head but it's hard to say from pictures. With the medication if it's a fungal or bacterial lesion chances are the medication will take care of it. Hole in head actually looks like tiny pinholes in their heads not a giant red lesion (until it gets so bad that it becomes a bacterial infection and the skin starts to rot away), the name is misleading. Keep an eye on it for any signs of fluffy fungus

 

Being that he is a koi he has the marbling gene and may or may not change coloration as he gets older. To me it looks like he's getting a red colored patch on his head but it's hard to say from pictures. With the medication if it's a fungal or bacterial lesion chances are the medication will take care of it. Hole in head actually looks like tiny pinholes in their heads not a giant red lesion (until it gets so bad that it becomes a bacterial infection and the skin starts to rot away), the name is misleading. Keep an eye on it for any signs of fluffy fungus

Ah ok, that's a bit more reassuring then. Thank you for sharing, I'll keep that in mind. I'll continue monitoring him. I try to engage him and he seems curious enough. Will come up and nip at my finger, eats food regularly. He's still a bit inactive and slightly clamped so let's hope for the best.

 

Just wanted to provide an update (and in case someone finds this thread in the future and my scenario can be of help to them).

I was able to successfully treat him! I did a week's course of Hikari Betta Revive and towards the last 3-4 days, I dosed his hospital tank with aquarium salts. I did 50% water changes daily. Here he is today:

 

Beautiful!!! So glad that he has settled in well

 

Just wanted to provide an update (and in case someone finds this thread in the future and my scenario can be of help to them).

I was able to successfully treat him! I did a week's course of Hikari Betta Revive and towards the last 3-4 days, I dosed his hospital tank with aquarium salts. I did 50% water changes daily. Here he is today:

View attachment 775055View attachment 775056View attachment 775057

Great!
That's one beautiful betta as well!

 

Just wanted to provide an update (and in case someone finds this thread in the future and my scenario can be of help to them).

I was able to successfully treat him! I did a week's course of Hikari Betta Revive and towards the last 3-4 days, I dosed his hospital tank with aquarium salts. I did 50% water changes daily. Here he is today:

View attachment 775055View attachment 775056View attachment 775057

Thats wonderful news! He’s looking great beautiful colours!
P.s I have used fluval edge tanks for almost 10 years and I always leave around 1/2 inch gap at the top!