New beginner with a lot of questions! Any advice would be appreciated! :)

AIvinn
  • #1
Hello. If you're reading this, thank you so much. However, I have a lot to say and if you don't have the patience to read it, you might as well do yourself a favor and leave. <3

Okay so anyways a little background about my tank and myself -

I'm a new fishkeeper as of 4/9/21. I've always loved fish and aquariums. I love the way the move, act, swim and everything. My sister says I was a fish in my past life but who cares. If you wanted to define the lowest of the lowest of fishkeeping as far as experience, that's me! So yeah. I have a lot of questions, so please keep reading!

Basic Information -
Gallon Size - 10 gal.
Heater - Yes, 50W.
# of Fish - 2
Species - 1 Platy (FEMALE) 1 Molly (MALE)
Substrate - White gravel about 2 inches as far as level.
Filter - Of course. I'm not as dumb as I used to be.
Aerator - New installment as of yesterday. (I'll get to that later.)
Plants - 2 and artificial (plastic.)
Decorations - One FAT log with holes large enough for fish to hide in. (Also artificial and plastic.) & A tiny cute blue cave that I'm using to hold my air stone down.
Cycled - I'll get to that later.

Alright, SO! My aunt helped me set up my new aquarium. She has had fish since 2019. A Platy actually that she has managed to keep alive and healthy since 2019. Furthermore, she also has a 20 gallon decently kept tank. Like I was saying, she helped me set up my tank with all of the necessary fixings. We used my tap water to fill up my 10 gal. and we added stress coat once full. She told me to let the tank sit for 48 hours before we get the fish and I did. (Keep in mind that the things she told me to do are the same things she did with her fish. However it took her 3 days for her 20 gal. water samples to be good for her to get fish.) Furthermore, she came back to my house on 4/11/21 (2 days later.) So her and I ran to pet smart with my topfin water sample and it was tested good for fish. Keep in mind that I literally got a nod and smile when we asked the worker if my water was good. So like any fishkeeper I was super excited and I picked my fish. I ended up getting 1 Molly, 2 Platies, and 1 Guppie. I got home and let the fish acclimate in the water bag for 15 mins. After that I scooped them into my tank and watched my new fish. Over the course of the next 6 hours, I noticed that my fish would hide behind my plant A LOT. I researched and believed that it was normal. In addition, my Guppie was spending A LOT of time around the surface; gulping air. Long story short, I went to bed and by the next day, My 1 Guppie and 1 Platy had died. Literally. I was shocked and scooped them out immediately. My Molly and other orange platy were still acting normal. About 3 hours later, I noticed that my Platy and Molly would constantly swim up to the surface and gulp air. They would then sink like they had no control of their bodies. As a result BOTH of them ended up dying 1 hour later. After all of that I researched like crazy for the entire day and learnt quite a lot that I would have never known without that experience. The next day, I took a water sample and brought it back to my fish store. I told her my story and she said that it was a problem with oxygen and convinced my mother and I to purchase an air stone. I thought it was swim bladder but hey, what do I know? So my mom and I got 1 Platy and 1 Black Molly plus an airstone. I went home and installed the air stone while the fish were acclimating. So I ended up adding them and they've been fine since 4/12/21. I also fed them dried bloodworms(pinch) on 4/13/21 and they BOTH ate.

QUESTIONS & CONCERNS

#1 - Ever since I fed my Platy, she would go under the log and shimmer. Like she's nodding "no." Her fins would also be clamped as well. Keep in mind that my Platy would also swim around the tank with NORMAL swimming patterns. However, she went to different layers of the tank and would also do the shimmering. Is this normal? If yes, why. If not, what can I do and what is wrong? Also the temperature for my tank for these last days has been 74-78 degrees F.
#2 - Now, this morning, I woke up and both of my fish were in the comfy log so I assumed that they were sleeping and did not want to be disturbed. So I left them alone for about 4 hours before taking action. (Keep in mind that I woke up THIS MORNING.) Furthermore, I started to get worried and lifted up the log with clean hands. (no soap.) The Molly immediately swam out. (My Platy was already out.) However 10 mins later, she swims right back into the abyss of the log.
#3 So I leave her alone. My Molly is female; same with the platy. While my Molly was hiding my Platy was mostly normal and would swim around and shimmer. Swim around and shimmer. The temp was 74 degrees last time I checked which is normal for tropical fish. Now, is this normal? I also noticed that my Platy would go into the log and shimmer as well. Keep in mind that I did NOT feed them today.

Lastly before you say disease, I checked the appearance of the fish 24/7 ever since I got them. I haven't noticed any sign of Ich, Velvet, parasites, or any disease. Their behavior is mostly normal and they are NOT gulping for air. However, my Platy & Molly would RARELY. Key word = RARELY go to the surface and gulp 1 bubble before normally coming down.

#4 How do I know if my tank is cycled? I mean I tested this water twice and got a "good" result at the fish store. I don't trust it but I also don't have a kit which I plan on getting soon. IN addition, I also noticed my water to kind of misty/milky at the top. Is that a good sign? I heard that it was bacteria.

#5 Are my fish lonely? Do I need to add 1 more female molly and 1 more female platy?
#6 ALSO, do I need to feed my fish a variety of foods? My aunt only feeds them bloodworms and her fish have been very healthy. Can I do the same?

Thanks and any advice would be MUCHHH appreciated!
 
GuppyGal7
  • #41
Bettas are very good beginner fish! I have one in my 10 and he's absolutely amazing. So much personality and easy care!

There actually isn't a whole lot you can do as a beginner with a 10g. It can vary depending on you sources and availability but it's typically tricky.
I second this. I love bettas. But you shouldn't keep them with guppies, and I say this as someone who successfully keeps a Betta with fancy guppies, I wouldn't recommend it for beginners or a 10 gallon. A Betta with a few mystery snails would be great in a 10 gallon. If not, 5 or so male guppies would also be fine. Cherry shrimp are also great.
One betta would probably be best. You can do a lot more with a 10 gallon than you would think, but most fish that could live comfortably in a 10g in groups tend to be small, delicate, or on the expensive side. I will tell you that aquarium keeping is a learning experience, things WILL go awry from time to time, and it stings a lot less losing one $10 fish than a shoal of critters that cost $50.

And, for all the problems I have with bettas, they DO have the most personality out of most common beginner fish. Guppies are pretty but man, they are kinda braindead.
My male guppy acts more like a Betta than my Betta. He's always flaunting himself at everything. Guppies do have great personality, but nothing can compare to bettas.
 
AggressiveAquatics
  • #42
My mistake with ammo lock. I was thinking of stuff you put in water when mailing fish. From what I've heard, bloodworms are mostly fat though. Are you sure you're not thinking of blackworms? Bloodworms are meant as a treat, aren't they? I've heard it's recommended to just feed them once a week? Could be wrong, but they certainly should not be the main thing you feed your fish.
Yeah they are a treat and shouldn’t be fed that often but I’m sure it’s bloodworms not blackworms
My frozen bloodworms nutrition facts are 0.3% fat and 9% protein
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #43
Also some of you were saying that I shouldn't believe what the pet store employees say, but THEY are the ones who told me that my Molly and Platy could coexist in 1 10 gallon tank. This really puts me in a crappy situation and can discourage oneself because how do I know what and what not to believe? I'm a beginner and it's very frustrating because people can give me stone and say it's food and take the fish for themselves. (that's a metaphorical statement. I know stone is not food lol.)
 
JLAquatics
  • #44
Also some of you were saying that I shouldn't believe what the pet store employees say, but THEY are the ones who told me that my Molly and Platy could coexist in 1 10 gallon tank. This really puts me in a crappy situation and can discourage oneself because how do I know what and what not to believe? I'm a beginner and it's very frustrating because people can give me stone and say it's food and take the fish for themselves. (that's a metaphorical statement. I know stone is not food lol.)
I agree with you, it is very frustrating for all us fish keepers. Even the veterans here have likely been misguided in the beginning when they first started keeping fish. However, there are many different options for great setups in a 10 gallon that work. I agree with what was said above. Most big chain stores mainly exist to make money and money alone, not to worry about adopting each individual fish to good homes (imagine how much money that would cost their store). Have you ever looked around at your local chain pet store and seen those small bowls or tanks without a filter and heater? If so, do you think any fish would be able to live gracefully in such an environment? Obviously not, but they are often marketed this way, having little Bettas or even worse, Goldfish, on the front of the box. This just proves that these chain stores and companies care about the money, not a fish's wellbeing. I personally feel your pain, as I have had a very similar situation when I first started out a few years back. I would suggest you do your own research here on Fishlore or other great sources on the web on any future fish you plan on keeping in your 10 gallon and beyond, they will be much more accurate from real life hobbyists with years of knowledge under their belts.
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #45
So, after being told the brutal truth about my tank, I took a lot into consideration after researching for like 4 hours yesterday, and now I have a game plan. However, I still need a lot of advice from the rest of you all so thank you in advance.

Plan

If you didn't know, I have a 10 gal. at the moment with 1 female Black Molly and 1 female Platy who I've both fed once (freeze-dried bloodworms - I was told these have a lot of protein) ; as of 4/12/21. I also explained that my tank was very milky/whiteish at the top and I did some research and it looks like I have a bacterial bloom with heterotrophic bacteria which isn't good. I was advised to return the fish but I can't really do that at the moment due to the other events in my life. (Keep in mind that I really love my fish.) So instead, I intend on purchasing the following products; carbon media, API master test kit, and Ammo lock that I will dose everyday until my Nitrite and Ammonia readings drop to 0 ppm. So that's what I intend on doing, so am I on the right path? I plan on feeding my fish every other day as well.

Other Questions -

#1 - I want to clarify if I'm cycling the correct way with fish. So basically I add ammo lock everyday and let it sit while also testing the water every day. After a test day (based on the results), I should do a 25%-50% water change for my fish, and I continue the process?

#2 - I have a HOB (Hang on Back) filter for my 10 gal. and when I told the employee at my local pet store about my previous 4 dead fish, she said that it was a problem with my filter and that it wasn't big enough nor was it filtering the water fast enough which is why my fish died. However, my mom went to a different pet store and told another guy what the previous employee had said and the guy responded explaining that it was a problem with the water. Who is correct? I'm not very sure, but I'm leaning towards the guy saying it was a problem with my water.

#3 - I have an aunt who owns a 20 gal. and has 7 fish in there. Mainly platies, guppies and some mollies. She has an underwater filter that is sponge with carbon media inside. Do you think I should borrow some of her own or purchase my own media??

#4 - Her tank also seems to be cycled due to how her fish are always acting very normal. In that case, should I borrow some of her gravel to speed up my process or no?

#5 - When I'm feeding my fish, if they are hiding, should they be immediately alerted and come out to eat? OR is it normal for them to hide then eat like bottom-feeders when I'm gone? Like I wanted to feed my fish at a particular time but I noticed that they weren't out so I didn't want to risk having excess food in the tank as that can be very dangerous.

*Also if you want to answer my questions, please please respond in the #1, #2, #3, #4 format because it will be easier for me to read and process, thank you very much.
ANY advice would be appreciated. (Please be very honest.)

Photos of my tank:

#1 The front view of my 10 gal.
#2 The view of my HOB filter.
#3 The interior of my filter
#4 The cartridge view.
 

Attachments

  • 10 gal. Tank front view.jpg
    10 gal. Tank front view.jpg
    127.3 KB · Views: 26
  • Filter Front View.jpg
    Filter Front View.jpg
    88.9 KB · Views: 25
  • Filter Interior View.jpg
    Filter Interior View.jpg
    98.6 KB · Views: 23
  • Better Cartiridge View.jpg
    Better Cartiridge View.jpg
    93.4 KB · Views: 22
86 ssinit
  • #46
Ok all your questions revolve around an uncycled 10g tank with fish in it . So what your doing is a fish in cycle. Get the fresh water master kit some tetra safe start and prime water conditioner 16oz change 4-5g of water daily. The safe start jump starts your bacteria. Test daily for ammonia nitrite and nitrate. Change 50% water when ammonia or nitrite get above .25. Ammo lock will always show ammonia when testing and isn’t needed. Next test your tap water for all of the above and ph. Let a gallon of tap water sit for 24hrs a test it again. This information will tell you about your water. Come back here and tell us .
With only 2 fish your hob should be fine. What type is it? It is your water as of now. Since you started how many times have you changed the water? Instead of gravel if you could get some of the media out of her filter that would jump start your tank. That’s full of beneficial bacteria.
 
AggressiveAquatics
  • #47
the only question you have left is about the food. They need better food than bloodworms. Although they are rich in protein they are a treat because they do lack some essential vitamins. Pellets or flake food are going to be something you need to get.
 
Mhamilton0911
  • #48
1: yes you're doing a fish in cycle, and I wouldn't bother with the ammo lock product. Keeping a close eye on your api test results, changing water when ammonia/nitrite combined reach 1ppm. I would buy Seachem Prime though, it's a water conditioner first, but detoxes ammonia/nitrite for 24hrs, and can remove heavy metals. It's super concentrated too, lasts a while!

2: I would say the first associate was wrong, the second is on the right track. Your filter is probably strong enough, but with no beneficial bacteria, you're just pushing water. The issue with the water is its building levels of toxic ammonia and soon nitrites. So aim to keep those under a combined 1ppm.

3: yes, using established media from your aunt's tank will speed up the process! You might even miss a nitrites spike. Just stuff some used sponge in the filter for a while and keep testing.

4: no gravel, just media should work.

5: fish might just not be comfortable enough to venture out. Make sure you have plenty of plants (live or plastic ) for cover and hiding. Once they feel secure, they will be more adventurous.
 
darkcat
  • #49
For me, I only experienced fish in cycle, which I think you're doing. What I did was add prime daily 1 mL to 2 mL to detoxify ammonia. I also tested the water EVERYDAY and keep track of it. (wrote it in my notebook) I think your aunt has an sponge filter (I'm not sure.) I've never had sponge filter so I don't know but maybe if you borrow her sponge and put it on the hob filter's input, I think it can cycle the process more faster. Also, I do water changes when ammonia and nitrites add up to 1 like, 0.25 ammonia and 0.75 nitrites.

#1. I added prime, it's kinda like ammo lock daily. Test water every day and keep track of it. Write it in your notebook. Do water changes when ammonia and nitrites add up to one. (0.25 ammonia and 0.75 nitrites)

#2. I'm not sure about this. If you're using the right filter for the 10 gallon, then I think the water is the problem. What was your parameters? High nitrites and ammonia can lead to death. So keep it under 0.5 or 0.25.

#3. I think your aunt is using the sponge filter. In that case, and if she has several, borrow one of her sponge and put it in the input of the hob filter. I never used sponge filter, but this can do? Because the bacteria is on the surface and on the filter sponge.

#4. Your choice. You should add the gravel if your aunt allows. It can fasten the cycle. I did it that way.

#5. Since you recently bought them, I think they're afraid. Just be close to them like, read books, research, play video games, and etc. They can get more confident. Also, add Hiding place, plants and others.
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #50
Ok all your questions revolve around an uncycled 10g tank with fish in it . So what your doing is a fish in cycle. Get the fresh water master kit some tetra safe start and prime water conditioner 16oz change 4-5g of water daily. The safe start jump starts your bacteria. Test daily for ammonia nitrite and nitrate. Change 50% water when ammonia or nitrite get above .25. Ammo lock will always show ammonia when testing and isn’t needed. Next test your tap water for all of the above and ph. Let a gallon of tap water sit for 24hrs a test it again. This information will tell you about your water. Come back here and tell us .
With only 2 fish your hob should be fine. What type is it? It is your water as of now. Since you started how many times have you changed the water? Instead of gravel if you could get some of the media out of her filter that would jump start your tank. That’s full of beneficial bacteria.
Okay so, I haven't changed the water at all nor do I have the necessary supplies at the moment but I will try to get them asap. Also I have 1 platy (f) and 1 molly (f).
1: yes you're doing a fish in cycle, and I wouldn't bother with the ammo lock product. Keeping a close eye on your api test results, changing water when ammonia/nitrite combined reach 1ppm. I would buy Seachem Prime though, it's a water conditioner first, but detoxes ammonia/nitrite for 24hrs, and can remove heavy metals. It's super concentrated too, lasts a while!

2: I would say the first associate was wrong, the second is on the right track. Your filter is probably strong enough, but with no beneficial bacteria, you're just pushing water. The issue with the water is its building levels of toxic ammonia and soon nitrites. So aim to keep those under a combined 1ppm.

3: yes, using established media from your aunt's tank will speed up the process! You might even miss a nitrites spike. Just stuff some used sponge in the filter for a while and keep testing.

4: no gravel, just media should work.

5: fish might just not be comfortable enough to venture out. Make sure you have plenty of plants (live or plastic ) for cover and hiding. Once they feel secure, they will be more adventurous.
In stead of Prime, does API Stress Coat work? It does the same thing if I'm not mistaken..
 
veggieshark
  • #51
#5 - In addition to above, they are spooked because they are the only one of their kind in the tank. When the dust settles, add two more of each. Not now though, you need to establish your tank first.
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #52
Ok all your questions revolve around an uncycled 10g tank with fish in it . So what your doing is a fish in cycle. Get the fresh water master kit some tetra safe start and prime water conditioner 16oz change 4-5g of water daily. The safe start jump starts your bacteria. Test daily for ammonia nitrite and nitrate. Change 50% water when ammonia or nitrite get above .25. Ammo lock will always show ammonia when testing and isn’t needed. Next test your tap water for all of the above and ph. Let a gallon of tap water sit for 24hrs a test it again. This information will tell you about your water. Come back here and tell us .
With only 2 fish your hob should be fine. What type is it? It is your water as of now. Since you started how many times have you changed the water? Instead of gravel if you could get some of the media out of her filter that would jump start your tank. That’s full of beneficial bacteria.
Also, I definitely will get some of her media and some prime as well. Just be sure, I test daily and change 25-50% of the water when the nitrites get above .25 right?
#5 - In addition to above, they are spooked because they are the only one of their kind in the tank. When the dust settles, add two more of each. Not now though, you need to establish your tank first.
I will.
Ok all your questions revolve around an uncycled 10g tank with fish in it . So what your doing is a fish in cycle. Get the fresh water master kit some tetra safe start and prime water conditioner 16oz change 4-5g of water daily. The safe start jump starts your bacteria. Test daily for ammonia nitrite and nitrate. Change 50% water when ammonia or nitrite get above .25. Ammo lock will always show ammonia when testing and isn’t needed. Next test your tap water for all of the above and ph. Let a gallon of tap water sit for 24hrs a test it again. This information will tell you about your water. Come back here and tell us .
With only 2 fish your hob should be fine. What type is it? It is your water as of now. Since you started how many times have you changed the water? Instead of gravel if you could get some of the media out of her filter that would jump start your tank. That’s full of beneficial bacteria.
Lastly, I have a TOPFIN Silentstream PF10 Power Filter. Me and my clueless self didn't know that it already had carbon inside of it. It also says that it's for 5-10 gallon aquariums.
 
Cinabar
  • #53
You should do a bit of research on carbon media. I assume you’re talking about activated carbon? Please correct me if I’m wrong. Keep in mind that activated carbon is not the same as biological media, which is what you need for the bacteria to grow on. Carbon is used to remove toxins from the water (like ammonia and nitrates) so this would mess with your test readings. Carbon also lasts like a month before you have to replace it anyway.

1. Your plan sounds good. Seachem prime over ammo lock any day because you get more bang for your buck lol

2. Your filter is plenty big enough for that size tank. Definitely more of a water quality issue.

4. Anything from an established tank will help speed up the process. Gravel, filter media, some decorations.

5. Dont worry, your fish are just shy. They’ll come out more when they get used to you and their new environment. Eventually they’ll swim up and beg for food every time you walk past
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #54
You should do a bit of research on carbon media. I assume you’re talking about activated carbon? Please correct me if I’m wrong. Keep in mind that activated carbon is not the same as biological media, which is what you need for the bacteria to grow on. Carbon is used to remove toxins from the water (like ammonia and nitrates) so this would mess with your test readings. Carbon also lasts like a month before you have to replace it anyway.

1. Your plan sounds good. Seachem prime over ammo lock any day because you get more bang for your buck lol

2. Your filter is plenty big enough for that size tank. Definitely more of a water quality issue.

4. Anything from an established tank will help speed up the process. Gravel, filter media, some decorations.

5. Dont worry, your fish are just shy. They’ll come out more when they get used to you and their new environment. Eventually they’ll swim up and beg for food every time you walk past
Thank you so much for the advice and I did mean activated carbon. My apologies. My filter cartridge already has activated carbon as it says on its pack.
 
86 ssinit
  • #55
Yes change water at .25. When you change 50% you reduce to .12.5 so you remove half of the ammonia/nitrite. That’s why I say 50%.
Yes your filter is small for the tank. Your looking for something that will filter 100gallons per hour (gph).
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #56
Yes change water at .25. When you change 50% you reduce to .12.5 so you remove half of the ammonia/nitrite. That’s why I say 50%.
Yes your filter is small for the tank. Your looking for something that will filter 100gallons per hour (gph).
Yes change water at .25. When you change 50% you reduce to .12.5 so you remove half of the ammonia/nitrite. That’s why I say 50%.
Yes your filter is small for the tank. Your looking for something that will filter 100gallons per hour (gph).
It says 90 GPH on the pack..
 
86 ssinit
  • #57
Ok than it’s good. When you said 5-10gal tank that sounded undersized.
 
SavTheArtist
  • #58
You could do fancy guppies they are extremely colorful and come in a wide variety! IMO they need to be kept with only fancy guppies though as they are really fragile. You could also do neon tetras, platys, or possibly dwarf Gourami.
Woah there friend, we might need to take a step back here. I wouldn't recommend neon tetras for a 10g as they need a sizable school, and a 10g doesn't provide enough space for typical schooling behavior. Platies are iffy, as we mentioned above.

And DGs... It's a risky situation. With a dwarf gourami; they're aggressive and territorial, and need a good amount of space. I would say... If you were to get a DG, that would be the only fish in a 10g. However, I would recommend a 15g or bigger for DGs, personally. Most sources say a dwarf gourami needs a 20g or bigger. I speak from experience here.
 
Batmantheanglefish
  • #59
oops sorry I had looked up what to put in a 10 gallon tank and these came up. I guess they aren’t the best suggestions then. I only keep mostly larger tanks so I didn’t know. I keep fancy Guppies in a 15 gallon tank so that’s why I thought those would be ok in a smaller number.
 
SavTheArtist
  • #60
oops sorry I had looked up what to put in a 10 gallon tank and these came up. I guess they aren’t the best suggestions then. I only keep mostly larger tanks so I didn’t know. I keep fancy Guppies in a 15 gallon tank so that’s why I thought those would be ok in a smaller number.
No worries! Google isn't very correct when it comes to stocking, IME. Majority of the things that come up in a search like that arent suitable for 10gs.
 
Batmantheanglefish
  • #61
Now that I looked up how big dwarf Gourami are I 100% agree with you a fish that size wouldn’t be happy in a 10 gallon.
 
BlackOsprey
  • #62
Also some of you were saying that I shouldn't believe what the pet store employees say, but THEY are the ones who told me that my Molly and Platy could coexist in 1 10 gallon tank. This really puts me in a crappy situation and can discourage oneself because how do I know what and what not to believe? I'm a beginner and it's very frustrating because people can give me stone and say it's food and take the fish for themselves. (that's a metaphorical statement. I know stone is not food lol.)
Take this to heart: always do your own research.

Pet store employees' primary job is always to sell products, and especially at large stores like petco and petsmart, the employees may not be very knowledgeable about fishkeeping themselves. Whether due to ignorance or out of pushing a sale, there's a good chance you won't get an accurate answer from them.

Fortunately, there is a wealth of information online about proper fish care. Every critter you can buy has at least half a dozen care sheets that list their ideal tank size and water quality needs, as well as their temperament and possible need for tank mates. Read up on a species, get an understanding of their behavior and needs, and make your decisions based on that. Care sheets and species profiles do not have motive to push misinformation, nor do they tend to be quite as fallible as some random internet person's opinion.
 
mattgirl
  • #63
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #64
Question

I was told that my tank isn't cycled and that my fish might suffer from ammonia poisonings but I'm still in the process of getting my testing kits and stuff, but I have some questions about the behavior of my 1 female molly and 1 female platy in the 10 gal. tank. Also, I've never done a PWC ever since I've gotten this tank and I don't want to do anything without knowing my exact water parameters.

#1 - My platy will swim and swim with clamped fins and she would go to different areas of the tank and shimmy. (No particular area.) Her fins would sometimes be clamped when she swims as well. I've only seen her without clamped fins a few times in the last 2 days. If you were wondering, I fed her today because I feed my fish every other day and she ate 1 bloodworm according to what I saw. She also hasn't shown any signs of lethargic behavior ALTHOUGH she would go hide in the log for long periods of time and shimmy/sleep then come out. What does this mean?

#2 - My Molly seems to be very lethargic. She too would also go in the log for VERY log periods of time. Like yesterday, she stayed in the log all-night and all-day till around evening. She would also go behind this large plastic plant I have in my tank and stay there for some time. In addition, she seems to swim more around the bottom. (Unlike my Platy who is WAY more active than her.) Also during the feeding today, I didn't see her eat. What's wrong with her?

Lastly, I really haven't seen any of them swimming to the surface to gulp air except once or twice to gulp 1 bubble then come down. So I'm really just worried about my Molly showing signs of being lethargic and my Platies' clamped fins that opens and closes at times.
 
Fisch
  • #65
My first step would be to relieve the fish by improving the water condition as it reads like your fish are suffering right now. Could you please reason why you won't want to do a WC now?
My recommendation would be to do two 20% WC with Prime treated water a couple of hours apart, then a 50% WC daily until until the stressed behaviour subsides. Addition of stress guard will help your fish. I you are waiting for a test kit, it may be too late for the little guys to recover.
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #66
My first step would be to relieve the fish by improving the water condition as it reads like your fish are suffering right now. Could you please reason why you won't want to do a WC now?
My recommendation would be to do two 20% WC with Prime treated water a couple of hours apart, then a 50% WC daily until until the stressed behaviour subsides. Addition of stress guard will help your fish. I you are waiting for a test kit, it may be too late for the little guys to recover.
I'll do this and see the results.
 
Sofiafish17
  • #67
I will suggest a water condition called Seachem prime. You can get it basically everywhere fish care stuff is sold. This gets rid of chlorine and chloramines in your water. Your tap water has tiny amounts of these things as well as other nasty stuff that we don’t notice but can really hurt your fish. Mixing this in 2 drops per every gallon will make it so that the chlorine and chloramine can’t hurt your fish. This product also detoxifies ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for about a day after you put it in. It doesn’t remove them but it detoxifies them making them not harmful. As a result, when you get your test kit ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate may still show up on your test but it has been made not dangerous for a little while. Though I agree that Petsmart and Petco won’t really help you and I don’t buy from them, I know for a fact that Petsmart carries this so you can try to get it there. I would say to dose it for all the gallons of your tank at first, and then for half of your gallons each day after. Also as well as for the amount you are replacing for a water change. It is best if you have a bucket or something that you bring the water in and you can mix the Seachem Prime into BEFORE adding it into the tank, this very important. I will link the Petsmart page for it below, but if it is at all possible, please don’t order this for delivery, go pick it up right away. It won’t make noticeable changes to you but after a little while, maybe as long as a few days though, you will probably, hopefully see a change in the behavior of your fish. The clamped fins are a typical sign of ammonia poisoning

I also wanted to say I totally know how you feel. I ended up in a similar situation almost 2 years ago when I started out. I put a betta, 5 brass tetras, and 1 Otto cat which is a schooling fish that needs super good water in a uncycled tank. Thinking back I have no idea how those fish survived, but they did and now I am looking around thinking about things like lighting for certain types of plants. I would say the vast majority of us stared in a similar situation. The owner of my LFS (local fish store, they are usually more reliable) actually has shared that decades ago he started with a fair goldfish in a bowl his sister got, and now today I walk in and see the AMAZING saltwater reef tanks that the same person has created and takes care of. We may be better fish keepers than you now, and that’s okay because we all started somewhere. Now I have a 10 gallon tank with a betta, 6 small tetras, and 3 Otto cats (the original one included. See? We can fix our mistakes). I actually now think the bio load or amount of waste produced by the fish is too high and I should have less fish in there. I’m in a tough unique situation and I’m trying to get them in a bigger tank. I don’t know how comfortable you are with sharing you information, but even if you could give us an approximate location and start a new thread asking, someone on here might be able to suggest a good, responsible, reputable fish store and resource near you. I highly recommend finding a local fish store, that is the step I took and started to improve my fish’s lives. When I started going to my LFS is when things started to look up for my little guys. If you are not comfortable with giving out your approximate location, I think there is a thread on here of good places, and you could also search your area and fish stores on Fishlore and maybe find a good place on here. I will look for the thread and link it if I find it. Next time you buy fish, please don’t buy them from Petsmart or Petco. Their practices and business should not be supported. I really wish you luck and please please please, KEEP ASKING QUESTIONS. That’s how we all got where we are, and you are not bothering. The people’s here are so so friendly and we all would love to keep helping you out.

Seachem® Prime® Aquarium Water Conditioner | fish Water Care & Conditioning | PetSmart

The 1.7 ounce is really all you need, it goes farther than you would think.
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #68
I will suggest a water condition called Seachem prime. You can get it basically everywhere fish care stuff is sold. This gets rid of chlorine and chloramines in your water. Your tap water has tiny amounts of these things as well as other nasty stuff that we don’t notice but can really hurt your fish. Mixing this in 2 drops per every gallon will make it so that the chlorine and chloramine can’t hurt your fish. This product also detoxifies ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for about a day after you put it in. It doesn’t remove them but it detoxifies them making them not harmful. As a result, when you get your test kit ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate may still show up on your test but it has been made not dangerous for a little while. Though I agree that Petsmart and Petco won’t really help you and I don’t buy from them, I know for a fact that Petsmart carries this so you can try to get it there. I would say to dose it for all the gallons of your tank at first, and then for half of your gallons each day after. Also as well as for the amount you are replacing for a water change. It is best if you have a bucket or something that you bring the water in and you can mix the Seachem Prime into BEFORE adding it into the tank, this very important. I will link the Petsmart page for it below, but if it is at all possible, please don’t order this for delivery, go pick it up right away. It won’t make noticeable changes to you but after a little while, maybe as long as a few days though, you will probably, hopefully see a change in the behavior of your fish. The clamped fins are a typical sign of ammonia poisoning

I also wanted to say I totally know how you feel. I ended up in a similar situation almost 2 years ago when I started out. I put a betta, 5 brass tetras, and 1 Otto cat which is a schooling fish that needs super good water in a uncycled tank. Thinking back I have no idea how those fish survived, but they did and now I am looking around thinking about things like lighting for certain types of plants. I would say the vast majority of us stared in a similar situation. The owner of my LFS (local fish store, they are usually more reliable) actually has shared that decades ago he started with a fair goldfish in a bowl his sister got, and now today I walk in and see the AMAZING saltwater reef tanks that the same person has created and takes care of. We may be better fish keepers than you now, and that’s okay because we all started somewhere. Now I have a 10 gallon tank with a betta, 6 small tetras, and 3 Otto cats (the original one included. See? We can fix our mistakes). I actually now think the bio load or amount of waste produced by the fish is too high and I should have less fish in there. I’m in a tough unique situation and I’m trying to get them in a bigger tank. I don’t know how comfortable you are with sharing you information, but even if you could give us an approximate location and start a new thread asking, someone on here might be able to suggest a good, responsible, reputable fish store and resource near you. I highly recommend finding a local fish store, that is the step I took and started to improve my fish’s lives. When I started going to my LFS is when things started to look up for my little guys. If you are not comfortable with giving out your approximate location, I think there is a thread on here of good places, and you could also search your area and fish stores on Fishlore and maybe find a good place on here. I will look for the thread and link it if I find it. Next time you buy fish, please don’t buy them from Petsmart or Petco. Their practices and business should not be supported. I really wish you luck and please please please, KEEP ASKING QUESTIONS. That’s how we all got where we are, and you are not bothering. The people’s here are so so friendly and we all would love to keep helping you out.

Seachem® Prime® Aquarium Water Conditioner | fish Water Care & Conditioning | PetSmart

The 1.7 ounce is really all you need, it goes farther than you would think.
Thank you so much for the advice and I will definitely take what you said into considieration. As of right now, I only have Stress Coat but I will try and get Seachem Prime.
Also, I live in Richmond, TX. I go to the PetSmart(s) around my area..
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #69
As of 20 minutes ago, I just did about a 20-25% water change and I added Stress Coat for my fish. However, if you read my recent post you'd know that my tank isn't cycled and I'm still working on it. I'm also a beginner...

So even though I did the 20% water change with stress coat, my Platy is still shimmying. Should I do another water change soon??
 
JustAFishServant
  • #70
What do you mean by "shimmying" exactly? It could mean a variety of issues including parasites, neurological problems, etc.
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #71
What do you mean by "shimmying" exactly? It could mean a variety of issues including parasites, neurological problems, etc.
She would go into 1 spot and clamp his fins. Then she would wiggle her body like a snake.
 
GuppyGal7
  • #72
I know you love your fish but 10 gallons is too small for mollies and platys. Ignore whatever the pet store has told you because they'll lie about appropriate tank sizes very often. Mollies need a minimum of 30 gallons and platys 20. They CAN live in 10s... the same way a betta can live in a 2.5G. Doesn't mean they'll be happy or the water quality will be good. Mollies especially are very messy. I'd recommend returning them and doing a fishless cycle. A small group of male guppies or a betta are much more appropriate for a 10 gallon.
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #73
I know you love your fish but 10 gallons is too small for mollies and platys. Ignore whatever the pet store has told you because they'll lie about appropriate tank sizes very often. Mollies need a minimum of 30 gallons and platys 20. They CAN live in 10s... the same way a betta can live in a 2.5G. Doesn't mean they'll be happy or the water quality will be good. Mollies especially are very messy. I'd recommend returning them and doing a fishless cycle. A small group of male guppies or a betta are much more appropriate for a 10 gallon.
Thank you for the info. If I would've known that Mollies and Platies could not live in a 10 gallon, I would have never bought them in the 1st place.
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #74
As of today, my fish look okay for the most part but after all the advice I've been given, I don't think it's fair for my fish to live in the conditions that they are currently living in, and it's too much of a headache to do be doing a fish-in cycle. So I am going to return them. However, what's the procedure for returning fish? I want to get them out of my 10 gal. as soon as possible THEN I will start my fishless cycle!! ----> I'm excited because I think I know how to do a Nitrogen Cycle but I will be sure to ask questions along the journey. Aaand when it's complete, I'll be getting a Betta Fish because I'm sure that he/she will be happy in a 10 gal. Also, I have bloodowroms.


Buut

How do I return them? Do I put them in a bag or..?
 
Mhamilton0911
  • #75
Do you still have the bag from the store?

I would call the store first, explain that you need to return the fish since the tank was too small. They might have specific instructions.

I have seen others bring fish in to my lfs in glass jars, even Tupperware. Or if you kept the bag, just put fish and water in the bag, about half full, twist and rubberband.
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #76
Do you still have the bag from the store?

I would call the store first, explain that you need to return the fish since the tank was too small. They might have specific instructions.

I have seen others bring fish in to my lfs in glass jars, even Tupperware. Or if you kept the bag, just put fish and water in the bag, about half full, twist and rubberband.
No bag. :/
 
ProudPapa
  • #77
I don't remember seeing your other threads, but doing a fish-in cycle isn't that big an issue, and the fish will be fine, if you're willing to put in the work.
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #78
I don't remember seeing your other threads, but doing a fish-in cycle isn't that big an issue, and the fish will be fine, if you're willing to put in the work.
Nah. My gallon size isn't even the right size for Mollies and Platies. Aaand when I thought of it, I'd prefer to hanlde 1 betta that I know will defintely do well in my 10 gal. since I'm just a starter.
 
Mhamilton0911
  • #79
If you can't find a suitable container, clean glass jar, Tupperware etc, go to the fish store and ask for a bag to return them, I'm sure they'll just hand you one, if you ask nicely of course Most will be understanding of the situation and want to help.
 
AIvinn
  • Thread Starter
  • #80
If you can't find a suitable container, clean glass jar, Tupperware etc, go to the fish store and ask for a bag to return them, I'm sure they'll just hand you one, if you ask nicely of course Most will be understanding of the situation and want to help.
Okay!
Also, can someone please explain to me what products I need for a fishless cycle, and do I need Quick Start or not?
 

Similar Aquarium Threads

Replies
9
Views
218
mattgirl
  • Question
Replies
9
Views
324
LeadLungs74
Replies
16
Views
756
jpm995
Replies
28
Views
408
Milkie789
  • Locked
Replies
5
Views
196
breadsheeran
Top Bottom