New 75 gallon build

COHiker

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Hi,

I've figured out I finally have room in my office for a 75 gallon tank. I have years of experience with 20s and 30 gallon tanks however this will be my first "big" tank by a long shot. And I'm somewhat intimidated now and doubting everything I know. Questions.

My supplier can get me a 75 gallon rimless or 75 rimmed from Ocean view. Both look good but now I'm doubting which look will look better.

Filter- the Aqua clear 110 is undeniably so much cheaper than a cannister. On my 30 gallon the aquaclear has keep all of my waste readings at a bullet proof 0 for 2 years now. I do however have deadspots full of detritus that I have to vacuum out constantly. (aided by the fact that my plants utterly hate the Fluval Aquasky). I hear people say the cannisters work better, but their flow rate appears slower. If I went with the rimless I'd go with the glass lilly pipes and an inline heater (or the in filter heater from OASE). I'm really on the fence here though because OASE 350 vs 600 seem to have almost no distringuishable difference. And I can't figure out the difference with the fluval "07" series vs the "FX" series. Furthermore literally every single fish website says a different GPH rate for fish. I will say, on our nano tank the beta would constantly get stuck to the the filter, and in the 30 the fish seem to like the opposite side of the tank from the AC.

Lighting. My plants seem to utterly hate the Fluval aquasky. I can't seem anything alive besides anubias, javafern, and tons of algae. I might try the fluval planted 3.0 instead. My dealer is also offering to sell hanging pendant lights from fancier reef companies that will cost me 4x more. I could afford that but not if it's stupid.

Inline UV sterilization? If I went with a cannister filter I wouldn't hate throwing one of these on. Has anyone had any positive results with these? I"d mostly be using it to reduce algae.

Edit: More background. For stocking ideas, I was going for schools of small docil fish. Tetras, Angels, zebra loaches. Aside from the angels, pretty much no fish over 2 inches. In case that helps comments calibrate filtration needs.
 
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Chanyi

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I would go with a rimless.
I would go with 2 canisters with a manufacturer claimed 5x per hour tank turnover rate each.
I would not buy a UV sterilizer, they will not control algae.

Algae is controlled by optimizing your lighting schedule to your plant's needs, maintaining healthy plants and keeping your tank + filters as clean as possible.

Fluval 3.0 is good, but on any tank with front-back larger than 12" you'll need more lights (front - back spread isn't very good).
 

RiverFisher87

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Personally I never owned a rimless tank but they do look really nice so I suggest that! For your filter I would probably go with a canister. On my 60 gallon I kept a single fluval 306 or something around that number, and it works great! Fun tank also has no plants as well and 0 algae. I also run a power head in my tank, but depending on what fish your getting you might be able to put one in. I think the reason my tanks so clear and algae free is because I run a air hose into the power head to it pumps air in my tank like crazy and along with the filter output my waters circulation is crazy, but my fish seem to love the current.
 
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COHiker

COHiker

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Re: powerhead

I almost put a powerhead in my 30 to try and help my deadspot. I see conflicting things though on whether plants will hate it. I would consider it as well for the 75. Does anyone have any feedback as to how plants would hate or like the increased water ciruclation?

Re: two cannisters:
Which two fluval or Oase cannisters would you throw on a standard 75g?

Aesthetics? If I went rimless, how dumb would it be to still paint the back of the tank black? or Siliconing a 3d background to it. Since it would be in a room corner I like the idea of being able to hide the wall/pipes. Nervous about devaluing a beautiful tank. I tend to find the paper backgrounds look dumb when airbubbles emerge or splashed water affects them.

Chanyi said:
Fluval 3.0 is good, but on any tank with front-back larger than 12" you'll need more lights (front - back spread isn't very good).
So would you go 2 Fluval 3.0s spaced front and back or would you switch to two pendants like a Kessel 160? Not sure if a kessel is just stupid on freshwater, I thought I saw an FW pro aquascaper on youtube using them a while back though(?)
 

Chanyi

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COHiker said:
So would you go 2 Fluval 3.0s spaced front and back or would you switch to two pendants like a Kessel 160? Not sure if a kessel is just stupid on freshwater, I thought I saw an FW pro aquascaper on youtube using them a while back though(?)
2 3.0's would be nice...

Are you planing on CO2? That will allow for better lighting options...
 
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COHiker

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RE: airhose

I had a learning experience on my rimless desk nano. I tried an airhose sponge filter for my shrimpies and it was aweful. Without a lid the bubbles pop and constantly splash "mist" out of the tank. I switched it to a small HOB. The mini HOB are hilariously bad at flow thru design. I think most of the water only touches 10% of my matrix media, but luckily the shrimpies don't pollute much.

I haven't decided if I"m going to run CO2 or not on the 75g. I was reading if I do run CO2, I'll be using a "Violet" lilly return to disturb the surface as little as possible and retain CO2.

Interestingly some of the aquascapers use a "spinner" Lilly return to reduce the return flow as much as possible to give the tank a serene look. In those cases though I think the aquascapers are limiting themselves to just 2-3 small fish so their filtration needs on that size tank are probably stupid low.
 

Chanyi

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With CO2 you actually want moderate to moderately high surface agitation. A strong ripple affect across the entirety of the water surface is a good thing when running CO2. You want good gas exchange so as to allow the max amount of O2 in the water. You can have both high O2 and high CO2 in the water at once.

If you end up off-gassing too much CO2, just add more.
 

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