New 36gal bow front build

LadyS
  • #1
New to the forum, and thought I’d keep track of my new build here, to make future questions easier to ask in regards to set-up, and equipment!

Nothing particularly special. It’s aTF 36g bow front that was half price for Labor Day weekend. Filtered by a Fluval 207 canister. There’s an eheim 200/300w heater (I’m not 100% sure which, and don’t have the box handy) to maintain temp, currently set at 81 degrees. There is the stock LED lighting in the canopy, as well as a Fluval AquaSky 18w LED strip. Not sure what I was expecting for $100 really, but not impressed by the AquaSky, and will be strapping another, 15w unit towards the front. Substrate is your everyday seachem fluorite, with copious root tabs smushed throughout.

I had initially thought a pair of discus and a school of cardinal fish would be the route I was taking, but upon arrival of the wood for my aquarium, there isn’t sufficient swimming room for me to feel comfortable even with just 2 discus, so for now, my only plan are cardinals.

Currently, it’s home to 4 asst. amazon swords, a bunch of bronze crypts, dwarf lily, cabomba, and a spindly plant I don’t recall the name of. Eventually, there will be lots of anubias on the upright wood sections, once they’re in the tank.

Anyway, thanks for checking it out!
 

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AcornTheBetta
  • #2
New to the forum, and thought I’d keep track of my new build here, to make future questions easier to ask in regards to set-up, and equipment!

Nothing particularly special. It’s aTF 36g bow front that was half price for Labor Day weekend. Filtered by a Fluval 207 canister. There’s an eheim 200/300w heater (I’m not 100% sure which, and don’t have the box handy) to maintain temp, currently set at 81 degrees. There is the stock LED lighting in the canopy, as well as a Fluval AquaSky 18w LED strip. Not sure what I was expecting for $100 really, but not impressed by the AquaSky, and will be strapping another, 15w unit towards the front. Substrate is your everyday seachem fluorite, with copious root tabs smushed throughout.

I had initially thought a pair of discus and a school of cardinal fish would be the route I was taking, but upon arrival of the wood for my aquarium, there isn’t sufficient swimming room for me to feel comfortable even with just 2 discus, so for now, my only plan are cardinals.

Currently, it’s home to 4 asst. amazon swords, a bunch of bronze crypts, dwarf lily, cabomba, and a spindly plant I don’t recall the name of. Eventually, there will be lots of anubias on the upright wood sections, once they’re in the tank.

Anyway, thanks for checking it out!
Welcome to the forum! Good choice with skipping the discus! I think that wood looks super good and could make for a great scape with cardinal tetra!
 

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LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
Thanks, AcornThe Betta! There just isn’t going to be any room for *any* large fish to move about. So it’s cardinals, and something oddball. I spent way too much time trimming, and shaping that wood for it to *not* go in. I’m committed to it now.

As it stands, the only upcoming change is equipment related. The power head is likely temporary. I just have several of them lying about for mixing water, and dropped it in this weekend to help clear out cloudiness from the gravel. Additionally, I can’t stand seeing the surface gunk, and will have to fabricate a surface skimmer that I can put the Fluval intake into. I saw they have a specially designed surface skimmer, *but* the video I watched on it explained that micro-bubbles were an issue. I do not do micro-bubbles, so the Fluval surface skimmer is a no-go.
 
AcornTheBetta
  • #4
Thanks, AcornThe Betta! There just isn’t going to be any room for *any* large fish to move about. So it’s cardinals, and something oddball. I spent way too much time trimming, and shaping that wood for it to *not* go in. I’m committed to it now.

As it stands, the only upcoming change is equipment related. The power head is likely temporary. I just have several of them lying about for mixing water, and dropped it in this weekend to help clear out cloudiness from the gravel. Additionally, I can’t stand seeing the surface gunk, and will have to fabricate a surface skimmer that I can put the Fluval intake into. I saw they have a specially designed surface skimmer, *but* the video I watched on it explained that micro-bubbles were an issue. I do not do micro-bubbles, so the Fluval surface skimmer is a no-go.
I think that Threestripe corys could work well with cardinal tetras.
 
AcornTheBetta
  • #5
Bronze corys will also work.
EDIT: Electric blue neon dwarf goby will be a good odd ball. You could get a group.
 
LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
Those gobies look stunning!

I thought about some funky cory cats, but the large, rough substrate would be hard on their barbells, no? I’ve seen cories with no barbells in tanks using larger substrate, and it wasn’t a cute look.
 

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AcornTheBetta
  • #7
Those gobies look stunning!

I thought about some funky cory cats, but the large, rough substrate would be hard on their barbells, no? I’ve seen cories with no barbells in tanks using larger substrate, and it wasn’t a cute look.
Yes, the large substrate would hurt. For corys sand is best.
 
LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
I may, eventually, put down sand. For now, I’m going to enjoy the brown color of this stuff.

Also: $12-a-pop for those gobies?! Here’s hoping they’re also hardy little nuggets!
 
AcornTheBetta
  • #9
I may, eventually, put down sand. For now, I’m going to enjoy the brown color of this stuff.

Also: $12-a-pop for those gobies?! Here’s hoping they’re also hardy little nuggets!
If the tank is properly cycled then they are.
 
LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
Well, I think I’ve got plenty of time.

I set a “alert me when back in stock” on the site I found them listed, but their site indicated they don’t get them often, so it might be awhile. And being that they’re wild caught, will need a proper, full quarantine.

thanks for the suggestion!
 

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AcornTheBetta
  • #11
r
Well, I think I’ve got plenty of time.

I set a “alert me when back in stock” on the site I found them listed, but their site indicated they don’t get them often, so it might be awhile. And being that they’re wild caught, will need a proper, full quarantine.

thanks for the suggestion!
Your welcome!
 
LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #12

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LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #13
Have started to notice some green Cyanobacteria staining the sand.

Something I’m used to in reef keeping, so dosed the tank with some chemiclean.

I guess today’s the day I find out if it’s also freshwater plant safe! Some befores. Will update Friday once it’s had a chance to do it’s thing.

please ignore all the grainy looking photos. I’ve started running a venturi tip on a powerhead to satisfy the requirement of extra o2 during chemiclean use.
 

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LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #14
12 days later, things are slowly growing, and filling in.

Still no co2, but hopefully soon!

Added a school of cardinals, along with 6 Otos (lost 1), and a school of cory cats, which all died over the course of a day.
 

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LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #15
This aquarium has singlehandedly almost destroyed my fish keeping confidence.

Ich did a quick job at killing off the original inhabitants, even with quick intervention with treatment starting when I saw a single spot on a single fish.

Since then, a brown hair-like type of algae has been over growing everything. I syphon it out, its back in a day. I’ve tried blackouts of several days, with almost no ill effects.

I’m about to just bleach it all, and back it up.
 
LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #16
No real changes. Did a 2 day blackout, followed up by some aggressive siphoning of algae.

For about a week now, I’ve had the photo period reduced down to 6 hours, with the intensity dialed all the way back to 25%, and running zero red/green. Not sure how long the plants will survive in less-than-optimal light spectrum, but this algae must die.
 
Hugooo
  • #17
No real changes. Did a 2 day blackout, followed up by some aggressive siphoning of algae.

For about a week now, I’ve had the photo period reduced down to 6 hours, with the intensity dialed all the way back to 25%, and running zero red/green. Not sure how long the plants will survive in less-than-optimal light spectrum, but this algae must die.
Chanyi , maybe you can give some pointers to help LadyS out?
 
Chanyi
  • #18
5 hours of light per day max (until algae is gone, then over a few weeks / months, slowly increase the amount of time the lights are on by 1/2 hour every other week).
Reduce light intensity.
Increase the frequency of water changes and the amount of water changed.
Dose Seachem Excel (or the Met14 equivalent) at the "after water change" rate 1 x per day.
Consider spot treating badly infected areas with H2O2 1 x per day.
Manually remove as much algae as possible.
Manually remove as much decaying organic matter as possible.
Manually remove badly infected plant tissue.
Manually clean the filter out with each eater change in old tank water.
Limit the amount of ambient light reaching the tank.
Ensure plants are being properly fertilized (unhealthy plants promote algae).
Feed less.
Consider grabbing some amano shrimp / oto cats / snails.
Increase the amount of plant density (as much as your wallet allows).
Consider using some decorative floating plants while you tackle the algae.
 

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LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #19
5 hours of light per day max (until algae is gone, then over a few weeks / months, slowly increase the amount of time the lights are on by 1/2 hour every other week).
Reduce light intensity.
Increase the frequency of water changes and the amount of water changed.
Dose Seachem Excel (or the Met14 equivalent) at the "after water change" rate 1 x per day.
Consider spot treating badly infected areas with H2O2 1 x per day.
Manually remove as much algae as possible.
Manually remove as much decaying organic matter as possible.
Manually remove badly infected plant tissue.
Manually clean the filter out with each eater change in old tank water.
Limit the amount of ambient light reaching the tank.
Ensure plants are being properly fertilized (unhealthy plants promote algae).
Feed less.
Consider grabbing some amano shrimp / oto cats / snails.
Increase the amount of plant density (as much as your wallet allows).
Consider using some decorative floating plants while you tackle the algae.

Thank you for all of that!
I’m currently running fallow, after ich quickly wiped out the new additions, including some otos. I don’t know about FW, but in SW we have to go fallow for 72 days, and I suspect it’s probably similar.

As above, I’ve reduced the intensity down to 25%, and eliminated red/green LEDs. Should I turn the light down any farther? I can reduce the photo period from 6, down to 5 hours. I’m just concerned that I’ll crash my hair grass. My cabomba has completely stopped growing. Some of it has even started shedding leaves.

My current water change interval is 5gal/week on a 36 gallon system. How much, and how much more often should I increase the intervals to?

Fertilizer is currently osmocote tabs under the substrate, and flourish at 3ml/week. Should add anything additional? I’ll have to order some Excel.
 
LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #20
I’ve added a half dozen Amano shrimp.

I wasn’t sure how many to buy, so I simply bought all I could find. They’ll have a dozen more on Thursday, so I’ll probably go buy them out a second time.
 
DrandonC
  • #21
New to the forum, and thought I’d keep track of my new build here, to make future questions easier to ask in regards to set-up, and equipment!

Nothing particularly special. It’s aTF 36g bow front that was half price for Labor Day weekend. Filtered by a Fluval 207 canister. There’s an eheim 200/300w heater (I’m not 100% sure which, and don’t have the box handy) to maintain temp, currently set at 81 degrees. There is the stock LED lighting in the canopy, as well as a Fluval AquaSky 18w LED strip. Not sure what I was expecting for $100 really, but not impressed by the AquaSky, and will be strapping another, 15w unit towards the front. Substrate is your everyday seachem fluorite, with copious root tabs smushed throughout.

I had initially thought a pair of discus and a school of cardinal fish would be the route I was taking, but upon arrival of the wood for my aquarium, there isn’t sufficient swimming room for me to feel comfortable even with just 2 discus, so for now, my only plan are cardinals.

Currently, it’s home to 4 asst. amazon swords, a bunch of bronze crypts, dwarf lily, cabomba, and a spindly plant I don’t recall the name of. Eventually, there will be lots of anubias on the upright wood sections, once they’re in the tank.

Anyway, thanks for checking it out!
I recently purchased this same setup. For a filter I added and Marineland Penguin 350. I've been trying to do a fishless cycle for 2 weeks now. I added 2ppm ammonia along with daily applications of Seachem Stability do no avail No Nitrites or Nitrates yet. Several days ago I added two Rite size C used cartridges from my brother to help with bacteria (i have my new cartridges in front and the used one behind them). Each day I test for Nitrates, Nitrites, and Ammonia. The only positive I get is the Ammonia that stays pretty steady. Am I doing this right?
 
LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #22
I recently purchased this same setup. For a filter I added and Marineland Penguin 350. I've been trying to do a fishless cycle for 2 weeks now. I added 2ppm ammonia along with daily applications of Seachem Stability do no avail No Nitrites or Nitrates yet. Several days ago I added two Rite size C used cartridges from my brother to help with bacteria (i have my new cartridges in front and the used one behind them). Each day I test for Nitrates, Nitrites, and Ammonia. The only positive I get is the Ammonia that stays pretty steady. Am I doing this right?

I’m not super familiar with freshwater cycling, as my knowledge base is solidly in the saltwater world, but dosing your ammonia up to 2ppm, and seeding with filter material from an established tank is a tried, and true method of cycling saltwater aquariums.

Most of the bacteria-in-a-bottle products for the saltwater world take a couple of days to “settle”, and grow sufficient colonies of bacteria to break everything down. Is it possible for you to get some gravel from your brothers system? Did the cartridges you get from him stay wet when you took them to your house? Im not sure how well the bacteria would handle drying out, but I suspect it’s far from ideal.
 
DrandonC
  • #23
Thank you for your reply. Yes! I can get some gravel from my brothers system. and yes, the filters stayed wet (ziploc and he lives a few miles away). I have 25 pounds in my tank now (about 1.5 inches on top of an UGF). How much from my brother would you suggest? I just added a little more ammonia to my water and increased the temp to 85. I guess I'm just a little impatient as I can't wait to get fish lol. I've been in the hobby for some years and took a few years off when I bought my new house. Now I'm back in.
 
LadyS
  • Thread Starter
  • #24
A couple cups worth? For me, the idea would simply be to introduce bacteria, and not have an instant cycle. So 1-2 cups should seed the system.
 

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