New 10 Gallon Tank Cycling Questions

Anna G
  • #1
I plan on cycling my 10 gallon tank. I read you add all decorations. However, I plan on adding a 9 inch "millennium falcon" to the center of my tank. I'm afraid if I add the ship before cycling, the good bacteria will not be able to reach a large portion of the gravel. Is this true? Should I wait to add the ship when cycling is complete then run the ship under cycled water? Or do I add the ship first?
-Thanks!
 
BottomDweller
  • #2
Welcome to fishlore!

Add the ship whenever you like. Bacteria does grow in the gravel, it grows on every surface in the tank, but not enough to affect your cycle. The vast majority of the beneficial bacteria is in the filter. Don't worry about the gravel, many people (including myself) have bare bottom tanks that are cycled fine. Some bacteria will grow on the ship but not enough to really do anything.
 
Fashooga
  • #3
The substrates only holds a small % of the bacteria. It's all in the filter.

Is the Millenium Falcon ok to put in the water?
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #4
Thank you!

The substrates only holds a small % of the bacteria. It's all in the filter.

Is the Millenium Falcon ok to put in the water?
I believe so as it is a toy.
 
penguin02
  • #5
I believe so as it is a toy.

That doesn't necessarily mean its aquarium safe. It might leak harmful chemicals into the tank.
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
I'm confused. According to this calculator: Fishless Cycle Ammonia Calculator

My tank needs about 47 drops of ammonia to reach 5ppm.
My question is do I do that all at once or over time?
What is the proper way I should I go about doing it?

Is there a way I can make it safe for the fish?
 
Fashooga
  • #7
Toys can be placed under water, what you need to make sure is that there are no chemicals in the toy or it's materials that can leech into the tank.
 
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BottomDweller
  • #8
You could coat it with some kind of clear, fish safe sealant. That would stop anything leaching out. I'd do a couple of coats to be safe.
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
Ok thank you great!
 
jacob thompson
  • #10
Get some pure ammonia without scents or artificial coloring, it should be straight liquid ammonia. Get an eye dropper and add it all at once.
 
BottomDweller
  • #11
5ppm ammonia is too much to be cycling a tank with. That amount could actually hinder bacteria. I would dose 2ppm of ammonia. Do it all at once.
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
Get some pure ammonia without scents or artificial coloring, it should be straight liquid ammonia. Get an eye dropper and add it all at once.
Cool . I heard Ace hardware 10% was good.

5ppm ammonia is too much to be cycling a tank with. That amount could actually hinder bacteria. I would dose 2ppm of ammonia. Do it all at once.
Ok. So I add 2ppm all at once and then start measuring for nitrites 24 hours later or..?
 
BottomDweller
  • #13
24 hours later test the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. Test these each day. Unless you are using cycled media to jump start your cycle or something you probably won't be seeing any nitrites on the second day. It takes a while.
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #14
Ok cool. I'm glad you said something about the 5ppm most of the articles on the web say 4 or 5ppm
 
jdhef
  • #15
I always recommend dosing ammonia to 4ppm initially. Test daily. Once nitrites appear only dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then if nitrites get above 5ppm, do a water change to bring them down, since many people claim that nitrite levels over 5ppm can stall the cycle.

Once you have 0ppm nitrites, more nitrates than whatever your tap water may have in it, and are processing all 2ppm of ammonia within 24 hours, you are cycled.
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #16
I always recommend dosing ammonia to 4ppm initially. Test daily. Once nitrites appear only dose ammonia to 2ppm. Then if nitrites get above 5ppm, do a water change to bring them down, since many people claim that nitrite levels over 5ppm can stall the cycle.

Once you have 0ppm nitrites, more nitrates than whatever your tap water may have in it, and are processing all 2ppm of ammonia within 24 hours, you are cycled.

Just what I needed thanks.


Am I dosing ammonia everyday as well?
 
RiffRanger
  • #17
Dose when your ammonia drops to near 0ppm. Eventually that will be happening daily, but initially, it will be slower. It can take up to a week or so for your initial dose to drop to under .5ppm. That’s why you test every day. You need to see how quickly the ammonia is being processed. Your tank is fully cycled once you can add ammonia and then have both ammonia and nitrites be 0ppm with detectable nitrates within 12 hours.

I recommend Dr. Tim’s for dosing. It’s much more reliable than any ammonia meant for cleaning and comes in a dropper bottle.
 
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Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #18
Dose when your ammonia drops to near 0ppm. Eventually that will be happening daily, but initially, it will be slower. That’s why you test every day. You need to see how quickly the ammonia is being processed. Your tank is fully cycled once you can add ammonia and then have both ammonia and nitrites be 0ppm with detectable nitrates within 12 hours.

I recommend Dr. Tim’s for dosing. It’s much more reliable than any ammonia meant for cleaning and comes in a dropper bottle.
Thank you.
 
PonzLL
  • #19
If you know any diabetics, ask them for a leftover syringe. They'll have hundreds lol

I use my son's syringes from changing his pump to measure out my ammonia for my tanks, so 61 drops I need for my 40 gallon tank is 3ml or 300 units on the syringe. Makes things real easy lol
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #20
If you know any diabetics, ask them for a leftover syringe. They'll have hundreds lol

I use my son's syringes from changing his pump to measure out my ammonia for my tanks, so 61 drops I need for my 40 gallon tank is 3ml or 300 units on the syringe. Makes things real easy lol
Haha ok thanks. The calculator I posted the link to tells you exactly how many drops you need. I will use a medicine dropper haha.
 
PonzLL
  • #21
lol I think I'd lose count around 40 or so
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #22
lol I think I'd lose count around 40 or so
Lol yeah I have a 10 gallon tank so they said about 38 drops .
 
Pescado_Verde
  • #23
That should get you in the ballpark but be aware that all droppers are not created equal. It could put you a little under or a little over your target. Drop in what you think you should and then check the ammonia within an hour or so to see where it got you to. Then you'll have some idea exactly what effect the # of drops you're using is having on the tank.
Hope that doesn't confuse.
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #24
lol I think I'd lose count around 40 or so
Oh yeah so how often do
That should get you in the ballpark but be aware that all droppers are not created equal. It could put you a little under or a little over your target. Drop in what you think you should and then check the ammonia within an hour or so to see where it got you to. Then you'll have some idea exactly what effect the # of drops you're using is having on the tank.
Hope that doesn't confuse.
Great!
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #25
I thought you're supposed to keep it in there; as it holds beneficial bacteria.
-Thanks
 
Aqua 59
  • #26
It depends on what filter you are using. What filter do you have and what media does it take?
 
ValerieAdams
  • #27
You are. You can rinse it in old tank water during a water change, you don't want to change it until it's falling apart. When that happens, you put a new one in with the old so the bacteria transfers over
 
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Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #28
At first I wanted to use API's conditioner. Then noticed a lot of of people using Prime. I would also like to know how often; as I read not to do a water change until the very end of the cycle to remove nitrates.
 
Aqua 59
  • #29
Prime, or Tetra safe-start are good.
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #30
It depends on what filter you are using. What filter do you have and what media does it take?
I am using top fins underwater worlds silent Stream 5 to 10 gallon power filter. It uses a bio cartridge, and a small filter cartridge.

You are. You can rinse it in old tank water during a water change, you don't want to change it until it's falling apart. When that happens, you put a new one in with the old so the bacteria transfers over
So it looks like my filter holds a space for two cartridges. Are you saying to replace one of them when it's falling apart, keep one of the old ones and replace one of them with a new one?
 
PonzLL
  • #31
Prime, or Tetra safe-start are good.

Prime and Tetra Safe Start are two completely different things. Prime detoxifies nitrite and ammonia, and safe start adds helpful bacteria to give you a start with cycling your tank.

Prime is used initially, then whenever you do a water change, you typically dose enough to cover the entire tank volume even if you only change half the water.
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #32
Prime, or Tetra safe-start are good.
Thanks much.

Prime and Tetra Safe Start are two completely different things. Prime detoxifies nitrite and ammonia, and safe start adds helpful bacteria to give you a start with cycling your tank.

Prime is used initially, then whenever you do a water change, you typically dose enough to cover the entire tank volume even if you only change half the water.
So must I use Prime or is ApI ok to use at the end?
 
PonzLL
  • #33
Prime and API water conditioner are the same from what I've read, however I believe most people use Prime. That may just be because that's the one everyone recommends so the cycle continues. You should be ok to use one or the other, but you need to use one of them.
 
mattgirl
  • #34
At first I wanted to use API's conditioner. Then noticed a lot of opeopl using Prime. I would also like to know how often; as I read not to do a water change until the very end if the cycle to remove nitrates.
It depends on whether you are doing a fish in or a fishless cycle. If doing fishless your API will be fine. The only time you need to use it is when you first set the tank up and then add some to the water you are replacing if needed due to evaporation.

If you are doing a fish in cycle I recommend using Prime because it also binds low amounts of ammonia that would otherwise be harmful to the fish. How often and how much needs to be added depends on your water change schedule and how much ammonia needs to be bound up.
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #35
And I only use it at the very end of the cycle right? And after it's cycled every time I do a water change? Also I was told at the end of the cycle to do a 70% water change to get rid of nitrates. Is this true?

It depends on whether you are doing a fish in or a fishless cycle. If doing fishless your API will be fine. The only time you need to use it is when you first set the tank up and then add some to the water you are replacing if needed due to evaporation.

If you are doing a fish in cycle I recommend using Prime because it also binds low amounts of ammonia that would otherwise be harmful to the fish. How often and how much needs to be added depends on your water change schedule and how much ammonia needs to be bound up.
Thanks! I will be doing fishless cycling.
 
mattgirl
  • #36
And I only use it at the very end of the cycle right? And after it's cycled every time I do a water change? Also I was told at the end of the cycle to do a 70% water change to get rid of nitrates. Is this true?
I believe my post above this one answers this question

oops we were typing at the same time
 
PonzLL
  • #37
I didn't realize API didn't also bind to ammonia. Good to know
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #38
I believe my post above this one answers this question

oops we were typing at the same time
Cool. So how much water needs to leave at the end of the cycle?
 
mattgirl
  • #39
Cool. So how much water needs to leave at the end of the cycle?
It actually depends on high the nitrates are. It may take more than one water change to get them down to at least 20. Let your tests be your guide.
 
Anna G
  • Thread Starter
  • #40
It actually depends on high the nitrates are. It may take more than one water change to get them down to at least 20. Let your tests be your guide.
Awesome thank you.
 

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