Neon Tetra Breeding

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Jacques

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HI all. So just saw one of my tetras with huge tummy. Can she be moved to the fry tank alone or does the male still need to fertilize the eggs once laid. Any idea how long before she will lay the eggs?

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Protim Sarkar

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You have to move both of them as males fertilizes the eggs.
Jacques said:
HI all. So just saw one of my tetras with huge tummy. Can she be moved to the fry tank alone or does the male still need to fertilize the eggs once laid. Any idea how long before she will lay the eggs?
Not sure.
 

chromedome52

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I've seen that guide before; I'd say the person who wrote it never actually bred Neon Tetras, as the instructions will inevitably lead to failure. For starters, the breeding temperature for Neons is 73-74, not 77. Second, the drawings are not even both Neon Tetras,the "female" is a Cardinal and the "male" drawing looks like a female Neon. Third, one must darken the spawning tank, as the eggs themselves are light sensitive. Fourth - do I really need to go further? The s are either drawings or photoshopped. If they had actually spawned the fish, one would think they would have actual males and females to photograph.

Now as to how to breed Neons: keep a group of breeders at about 76F and feed meaty foods such as Artemia naupliI (a.k.a. baby brine shrimp). Decapsulated brine shrimp eggs will also work, as will microworms and Cyclopeeze, if you can get it. While conditioning the fish, set up the breeding tank with rain water or R/O mix to bring the GH below 4, or about 70ppm. I use prefiltered water soaked in peat to bring the pH down below 6.0. The temperature should be 73-74F. To set up a single pair, a 2.5 gallon tank will work. No substrate, no filters, but you do want an airstone. Put black paper or other light blocking material around three sides of the tank. The front should have the top half covered, with a flap to cover the bottom half. The top should be about half covered, with no direct overhead lights.

When the females are fat, and the males are bright, select the most active male and the largest female and place in the breeding tank in the evening with sterilized breeding mops to receive the eggs. They should spawn the next morning, but if they don't, do not feed the breeders! Leave them in the breeding tank. I will give them three mornings, if I see no eggs at that point, I will remove and try another pair. A small water change, vacuuming the bottom, won't hurt.

If they do spawn, you will likely see some eggs on the bottom. They are not voracious egg eaters like some fish, though they may get a few. The eggs are tiny and clear, but can be seen if you shine a flashlight across the bottom at a low angle. This brief exposure to light won't hurt them. They may also be visible on the fibers of the spawning mops. Make sure the pair is done spawning (if the male is pursuing the female into the mops, they are probably still going) then move them back to the group. This is the time to drop the front flap and cover the tank completely. The eggs should hatch in 24-36 hours, and the tiny slivers will be as hard to see as the eggs were. At this point, try to resist checking on them too often!

It should take another 2-3 days for the larval fry to start swimming. Now comes the difficult part: feeding them. Infusoria, vinegar worms, or liquefied fry food, and it should be fed sparingly. If you can, feed every 4-6 hours. Change water an hour after feeding. One advantage of a small tank is that you can use less food and still have it concentrated where the fry can find it. Within a week they should take bbs, microworms, and powdered fry foods, at which point they are as good as raised. I would move at two weeks, preparing a tank of appropriate size for the spawn, which could number as high as 80, though half that is more likely. My first move would be to a 10, using all the water from the spawning tank and gently adding a gallon of softened water at a time over the next couple of days.

Of course, there are other ways to do it, but they are not going to be as productive, though they could be much less work.
 
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Jacques

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Thanks Protim. I saw that link but I don't trust wikI so didn't take much of it as fact.

Thanks for all the info Chromedome. Great advice. I'll see if I can get it done.
 

Redshark1

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I have brought up hundreds of Zebra Danio fry. Would bringing up Neon Tetra fry be similar?
 

chromedome52

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Redshark1 said:
I have brought up hundreds of Zebra Danio fry. Would bringing up Neon Tetra fry be similar?
yes and no. Yes, in that providing small foods for the fry is pretty much the same, though Zebra Danio fry are bigger and can actually start on microworms and bbs. No, in that the Neon fry require specific water conditions and relatively dark conditions, where Zebra Danios prefer well lit conditions, and even as fry they need more space than the Neons due to their extra active lifestyle.
 

Redshark1

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Thanks chromedome52 that is helpful.

I had great success with Zebra Danio fry by feeding them Paramecium and other natural fauna encouraged with the addition of Liquifry fry food to the water.

They proved too small to take the BBS at first, though I suspect this could have been due to the type of eggs I was using as I expect they vary in size.

Bowl45 and Danio fry Steve Joul 20.04.08 - Copy.jpg
 
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Jacques

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Thanks all for the suggestions. I'll see how she progresses and if it happens I'll share some pics
 
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