Need Help With Filter

Hello everyone, I am few weeks old in this domain. I have a three feet wide tank which holds 45gallon/120litres. And I have around 50 tetra neons and four german red guppies. The filter I am using says 650l/hour...guess this is what it does in an hour..is this filter optimum? I never see the tank water crystal clear though..would a Powerful filter do the job? Or an external flter is better? Please suggest

 

Hello everyone, I am few weeks old in this domain. I have a three feet wide tank which holds 45gallon/120litres. And I have around 50 tetra neons and four german red guppies. The filter I am using says 650l/hour...guess this is what it does in an hour..is this filter optimum? I never see the tank water crystal clear though..would a Powerful filter do the job? Or an external flter is better? Please suggest

Here is a useful old thread: Aquarium Filter Gallons Per Hour Filtration

That does sound like a packed aquarium. Is there a particular reason why you have those guppies in there with the tetras? They have very different water needs. As far as the water clarity, could you first let us know how long the tank has been running, the water parameters, is it planted, and what the lighting is like? Also a photo would help a lot.

 

Here is a useful old thread: Aquarium Filter Gallons Per Hour Filtration

That does sound like a packed aquarium. Is there a particular reason why you have those guppies in there with the tetras? They have very different water needs. As far as the water clarity, could you first let us know how long the tank has been running, the water parameters, is it planted, and what the lighting is like? Also a photo would help a lot.

Three week old tank..I ve had my bad experiences with cycling it..lost few fish as well. I like both tetras and guppies, and as they r compatible I have them together. It is a planted aquarium.

 

Yes, more details please, it could just be a bacteria or algae bloom, but more info is needed to make good recommendations.

 

It is interesting the way you have the plants in pots. I have not seen that before. I would think the plants would do better in an actual substrate bed. More area to draw nutrients. Your tank is very young at three weeks. Are you testing water parameters?

 

It is interesting the way you have the plants in pots. I have not seen that before. I would think the plants would do better in an actual substrate bed. More area to draw nutrients. Your tank is very young at three weeks. Are you testing water parameters?

Yes, I bought the ammonia test kit..currently the ammonia level is below 0.25. I use hardwater..treated with prime and dechlorinator

 

So you are not quite cycled yet. Ammonia in a cycled tank should be zero. Be patient. Stay on top of water changes. I would get a full API freshwater test kit.

 

You are cycling with 50 neon tetras and 4 guppies? That's utterly insane, but I am seriously wowed that so many fish are still alive. Neon tetras and guppies can live together peacefully, but a major issue is that the tetras need soft, acidic water, and the guppies need hard, alkaline water. They can survive together in something in the middle, but it's not optimal. Also, the neons like their water warmer than the guppies do.

How are you doing on water changes and reading your parameters?

Go ahead and look up the needs of each of your different plants and provide for them accordingly. Rather than jars of gravel, some of them would do better in jars of dirt with a layer of gravel at the top. Others will do better without a pot and just lightly anchored to the bottom. I have some bare bottom tanks--they have their uses, but I wouldn't recommend doing that with neons. They do better with heavily planted tanks, and a nice layer of organic potting soil on the bottom capped with sand or pebbles works well. But you'd have to be prepared to do a quick change with appropriate buckets, and I wouldn't risk that until after your beneficial bacteria is established as that will seriously stress out the neons.

 

So, all that to say that I don;t think your filter is undergunned.

 

You are cycling with 50 neon tetras and 4 guppies? That's utterly insane, but I am seriously wowed that so many fish are still alive. Neon tetras and guppies can live together peacefully, but a major issue is that the tetras need soft, acidic water, and the guppies need hard, alkaline water. They can survive together in something in the middle, but it's not optimal. Also, the neons like their water warmer than the guppies do.

How are you doing on water changes and reading your parameters?

Go ahead and look up the needs of each of your different plants and provide for them accordingly. Rather than jars of gravel, some of them would do better in jars of dirt with a layer of gravel at the top. Others will do better without a pot and just lightly anchored to the bottom. I have some bare bottom tanks--they have their uses, but I wouldn't recommend doing that with neons. They do better with heavily planted tanks, and a nice layer of organic potting soil on the bottom capped with sand or pebbles works well. But you'd have to be prepared to do a quick change with appropriate buckets, and I wouldn't risk that until after your beneficial bacteria is established as that will seriously stress out the neons.

I do a 20-30% water change every few days

 

I'm curious where your neons were bred and where you're located as it's amazing that they're able to survive this stress. Around here, we mostly get very tired neons from Thailand that mostly go belly up, and they're difficult to medicate as they're raised with a lot of antibiotics. I've had to keep them in 50% reverse osmosis water as out hard, alkaline water is very hard on them.

Are you not testing for nitrite and nitrate? You will need to get a positive nitrate reading to show that you have beneficial bacteria.

 

I'm curious where your neons were bred and where you're located as it's amazing that they're able to survive this stress. Around here, we mostly get very tired neons from Thailand that mostly go belly up, and they're difficult to medicate as they're raised with a lot of antibiotics. I've had to keep them in 50% reverse osmosis water as out hard, alkaline water is very hard on them.

Are you not testing for nitrite and nitrate? You will need to get a positive nitrate reading to show that you have beneficial bacteria.

I'm located in India...and here..usual practice is to stuff the tanks with many fish. A 12 inch small tank can have 15 tetras...these are bred in India..and I experienced that tetras are far more better quality than guppies here...they last longer

 

I'm curious where your neons were bred and where you're located as it's amazing that they're able to survive this stress. Around here, we mostly get very tired neons from Thailand that mostly go belly up, and they're difficult to medicate as they're raised with a lot of antibiotics. I've had to keep them in 50% reverse osmosis water as out hard, alkaline water is very hard on them.

Are you not testing for nitrite and nitrate? You will need to get a positive nitrate reading to show that you have beneficial bacteria.

I see you are an endler expert..would like to see some pics..very few love endlers

 

Oh, you're in India--that explains so much If your water is soft and acidic (which it likely is since neons do well in your neck of the woods), you should try keeping the guppies separately in a 10 gallon tank and adding some dissolved aquarium salt. Crushed clean egg shells in a nylon bag in the filter can also help. They really can't do well in water that tetras like.

Overstuffing a tank only works if you're able to stay on top of water changes to maintain very good parameters, and if the fish are a type that won't shred each other when stressed out. Endlers handle overstuffing very well if there is no mycobacteria in the tank. My maximum was 60 adults (mixed males and females) in a 10 gallon. The only drawback was that absolutely no fry were surviving. I've since put that particular group in a 29, where they're reproducing quite well.

I wouldn't call myself an Endler expert so much as a very dedicated amateur. Emeraldking has the best photos as he's a serious biologist with a huge personal collection of livebearers, both pure and hybrids. Be sure to check out his photos

 

Oh, you're in India--that explains so much If your water is soft and acidic (which it likely is since neons do well in your neck of the woods), you should try keeping the guppies separately in a 10 gallon tank and adding some dissolved aquarium salt. Crushed clean egg shells in a nylon bag in the filter can also help. They really can't do well in water that tetras like.

Overstuffing a tank only works if you're able to stay on top of water changes to maintain very good parameters, and if the fish are a type that won't shred each other when stressed out. Endlers handle overstuffing very well if there is no mycobacteria in the tank. My maximum was 60 adults (mixed males and females) in a 10 gallon. The only drawback was that absolutely no fry were surviving. I've since put that particular group in a 29, where they're reproducing quite well.

I wouldn't call myself an Endler expert so much as a very dedicated amateur. Emeraldking has the best photos as he's a serious biologist with a huge personal collection of livebearers, both pure and hybrids. Be sure to check out his photos

Thanks for your reply

 

Hey everyone,

I need filter help. For several years I had the Tetra whisper HOB filters, usually the 45-70 gal ones. I hated them so much because they would after a week or so have weak flow out of the filter where they should have flow, and instead overflow out the area where the intake was and not actually filter the water.

Recently, I switched to the marineland penguin bio wheel filter. I heard it was really good, and people didn’t seem to have problems. YET, literally a WEEK later, the thing is doing what the tetra ones did, it has weak flow coming out where it should and is **** water out the intake area! The flow is so weak that the bio wheel can’t spin. Why is this happening??? It’s only been a week and the water is PRISTINE so I doubt it’s clogged up already.

Help! Signed, a frustrated fish mama.

 

I hate Marineland filters, I wish I could’ve told you not to. They’re cheap. Aquaclear is the best. It sounds like maybe you’re putting too much media in or your tank is really dirty. Have you ever tried a prefilter sponge?

 

Agreed. They’re probably the worst filter. I have a bunch sitting around that came with a tank.

I threw away the wheel on the only one I use, you can run it without the wheel.

 

Hi. I have been using the Marineland Penguin 350 filter's for year's and NEVER had a problem with them. What filter media are you using in your's?

 

What size tank do you have & how is it stocked?

 

I hate Marineland filters, I wish I could’ve told you not to. They’re cheap. Aquaclear is the best. It sounds like maybe you’re putting too much media in or your tank is really dirty. Have you ever tried a prefilter sponge?

Oh no. Everyone I spoke to who owned fish said they were awesome. Guess I **** up...

I heard the aquaclear is good but I also heard it’s a pain in the to clean? Like you have to take the motor apart and everything? Idk. Please clarify for me. And like I stated earlier, it’s not the water quality, I just did a huge water change and the water is crystal clear. I don’t believe I’m putting too much media in, it’s just the one cartridge that marineland says to put in the filter, and that’s it. No, I have not tried a prefilter sponge. What is that? I need guidance.

 

Hi. I have been using the Marineland Penguin 350 filter's for year's and NEVER had a problem with them. What filter media are you using in your's?

Just the filter media that came with the tank.

 

What size tank do you have & how is it stocked?

It’s a 40 gallon tank and I have two fancy goldfish in it. Not overstocked. I know what I’m doing there, at least. Just don’t understand why all these filters seem to be .

 

If your ammonia and nitrites are zero and nitrates are managed with water changes, then the filter is working.

I have never owned a Penguin BioWheel filter, but I know some users omit the cartridge and insert foam sponge blocks in their place. They will catch a lot of muck, clog slower and are reusable.

Aquaclear sells 3-packs of replacement sponges for $3-$5, depending if they are for the AC50 or AC70 models.

Here is a pic of a 3-pack of AC50 replacement sponges.

Aquaclear 50 Sponges

• Islandvic
• Dec 24, 2018

Aquaclear/Fluval sponge replacements are available in 3-packs for $3-$5. Perfect for DIY media!

Your filters may be having restricted flow from the bio-load of the gold fish, and the cartridges are being overwhelmed.

AquaticJ mentioned a sponge prefilter and you asked about what they were.

Usually it is a foam sponge that is slipped over the end of an intake tube.

As water is drawn in, it catches all the large muck before it enters the filter. It keeps the main media cleaner for a bit longer, and it can be removed, cleaned and put back with needing to be replaced. Its also an additional place for beneficial bacteria to colonize.

Here is an example...

Top Fin Silenstream Intake Assembly w/ Top Fin Sponge Filter

• Islandvic
• Dec 24, 2018

Top Fin Silenstream Intake Assembly, Top Fin Sponge Filter and zip tie (impeller is upside in...

Top Fin Silenstream w/ Sponge Pre-Filter

• Islandvic
• Dec 24, 2018

You mentioned Aquaclear filters. I own 4. The Aquaclear models of filters are probably easier to clean than most filters.

Their media baskets lift out, and if you remove them from the tank, the motor assembly unlocks by twisting it off. It has a thick o-ring and threaded type collar that twists back into the filter and locks into place. Mine have never leaked. It makes it easy to clean the impeller and shaft.

I have been using them for almost a year and have liked them very much so far.

Here are 2 pics of the media basket of one of my AC30 filters.....

AC30 media basket 1

• Islandvic
• Nov 18, 2018

AC30 media basket 2

• Islandvic
• Nov 18, 2018

Here are pics of the media basket of my AC110 and a video of it running (it's actually quieter in person, the hum in the video is from 3 filters running and an air pump)

AC110 media

• Islandvic
• Nov 15, 2018

AC110 sponge, polyfil, 100 micron pad, poly media pad cut from bulk roll, 1 liter of assorted...

AC110 back view of reservoir stuffed with media

• Islandvic
• Nov 15, 2018

View media item 245549
If you are wanting to increase your mechanical filtration in the tank, so your HOB doesn't clog up so fast, one possibility is to us a sponge filter driven off an air line or a powerhead.

I would recommend an ATI Hydro Sponge Pro IV or V.

Here is a

to a review on them from Palmer Fish.

I use ATI's air driven sponge filters and their pre-filters.

 

If your ammonia and nitrites are zero and nitrates are managed with water changes, then the filter is working.

I have never owned a Penguin BioWheel filter, but I know some users omit the cartridge and insert foam sponge blocks in their place. They will catch a lot of muck, clog slower and are reusable.

Aquaclear sells 3-packs of replacement sponges for $3-$5, depending if they are for the AC50 or AC70 models.

Here is a pic of a 3-pack of AC50 replacement sponges.

Aquaclear 50 Sponges

• Islandvic
• Dec 24, 2018

Aquaclear/Fluval sponge replacements are available in 3-packs for $3-$5. Perfect for DIY media!

Your filters may be having restricted flow from the bio-load of the gold fish, and the cartridges are being overwhelmed.

AquaticJ mentioned a sponge prefilter and you asked about what they were.

Usually it is a foam sponge that is slipped over the end of an intake tube.

As water is drawn in, it catches all the large muck before it enters the filter. It keeps the main media cleaner for a bit longer, and it can be removed, cleaned and put back with needing to be replaced. Its also an additional place for beneficial bacteria to colonize.

Here is an example...

Top Fin Silenstream Intake Assembly w/ Top Fin Sponge Filter

• Islandvic
• Dec 24, 2018

Top Fin Silenstream Intake Assembly, Top Fin Sponge Filter and zip tie (impeller is upside in...

Top Fin Silenstream w/ Sponge Pre-Filter

• Islandvic
• Dec 24, 2018

You mentioned Aquaclear filters. I own 4. The Aquaclear models of filters are probably easier to clean than most filters.

Their media baskets lift out, and if you remove them from the tank, the motor assembly unlocks by twisting it off. It has a thick o-ring and threaded type collar that twists back into the filter and locks into place. Mine have never leaked. It makes it easy to clean the impeller and shaft.

I have been using them for almost a year and have liked them very much so far.

Here are 2 pics of the media basket of one of my AC30 filters.....

AC30 media basket 1

• Islandvic
• Nov 18, 2018

AC30 media basket 2

• Islandvic
• Nov 18, 2018

Here are pics of the media basket of my AC110 and a video of it running (it's actually quieter in person, the hum in the video is from 3 filters running and an air pump)

AC110 media

• Islandvic
• Nov 15, 2018

AC110 sponge, polyfil, 100 micron pad, poly media pad cut from bulk roll, 1 liter of assorted...

AC110 back view of reservoir stuffed with media

• Islandvic
• Nov 15, 2018

View media item 245549
If you are wanting to increase your mechanical filtration in the tank, so your HOB doesn't clog up so fast, one possibility is to us a sponge filter driven off an air line or a powerhead.

I would recommend an ATI Hydro Sponge Pro IV or V.

Here is a

to a review on them from Palmer Fish.

I use ATI's air driven sponge filters and their pre-filters.

Thank you so much!!! This was such good information. I think I’m gonna try the filter sponge first.

 

I have 3 Marineland filters running (because that's what came with the tanks), but I have also got rid of the cartridges that came with it and am using the aqua clear sponges instead. They more than double the bio capacity. I threw some bio rings in as well just because. I also have a prefilter sponge on each intake to catch the big stuff so it doesn't get sucked into the main filter and clog it up so fast. Don't worry if those bio wheels aren't spinning...they don't do much anyway. I personally don't mind the Marineland filters, they have a ton of media space if used correctly. They prime themselves easily, and with the alternate bio media, are just as easy to clean as the Aqua clear in my opinion.

 

Are you Sure your intake tube is seated on the impeller correctly and inserted all the way in, the filter media cartridge is also seated correctly and that your filter is hung straight on the aquarium rim? I've heard of flow (and leakage) problems when one or more of those things are awry.

 

Just the filter media that came with the tank.

Hi. I don't use the cartridge's. They come with carbon and the only time you want to use carbon is when you want to take med's out of the tank. I use poret filter sponge from Swiss Tropical's and Fluval Bio Rings.

 

Hey everyone!!! Just want to update. I went to the pet store, got some of the fluval aquaclear sponge/foam blocks, a pre filter sponge, and added both of those without taking my filter media out, and THE PROBLEM IS FIXED!!! It’s just that there’s too much slime for the one filter cartridge to handle, and when you add more filter media of different types it works better and doesn’t clog as fast. The water is CRYSTAL clear now and all parameters are perfect. Thank you SOOOOOO much for all the advice everyone! Glad I didn’t have to return another stupid filter!