Need Help With Cherry Red Shrimp/fire Red Parameters

mattgirl ph of tap this morning after about 13-15 hours 8.2ph . It got a shade lighter to about 8.2
Ammonia of tank this morning

 

It looks like the ammonia is down a bit. We'll have to see what your tap water does in a few more hours.

 

Since I've never had shrimp I don't know their needs. Do they have to have a low PH to thrive? If not it is possible that you will have to slowly acclimate them to the PH of your tap water.

If your PH doesn't drop any more at the 24 hour mark you may just have to acclimate the shrimp to the PH of your water. To do that just do small water changes to gradually raise the PH of your tank. 10% water changes daily until it gets up to the level of your tap water should do it slow enough for them to get used to the higher PH and after that you could do bigger water changes.

 

most of the neocaridina are 7 to 8 caridina like crystal red & black bee 6.5 but I can tell you cherry reds will live and breed in 6.5 as i'm doing it. just make sure there's no trace of ammonia as that will kill them

 

most of the neocaridina are 7 to 8 caridina like crystal red & black bee 6.5 but I can tell you cherry reds will live and breed in 6.5 as i'm doing it. just make sure there's no trace of ammonia as that will kill them

I have cherry reds which is why I wanted to try and keep ph around 7.I believe some members keep them in higher ph but I’m not sure if their breeding

Since I've never had shrimp I don't know their needs. Do they have to have a low PH to thrive? If not it is possible that you will have to slowly acclimate them to the PH of your tap water.

If your PH doesn't drop any more at the 24 hour mark you may just have to acclimate the shrimp to the PH of your water. To do that just do small water changes to gradually raise the PH of your tank. 10% water changes daily until it gets up to the level of your tap water should do it slow enough for them to get used to the higher PH and after that you could do bigger water changes.

I’m pretty sure they will survive at the ph of my tap but will they breed is what I’m kind of worried about . My guppies should be fine around 8.2 8.4ph ? I’m super worried because their black Moscow’s.
And yeah if I have to I was just going to remove 10% water and just drip acclimate over night the 10% that’s removed
If someone can tell me if my pets will be fine around 8.2-8.4 I don’t mind leaving the way it is with my tap
SerbaI Cory x2
Black Moscow x2
Chery red shrimp
Tons of java moss
I think the other plant is called round pellia?

Won’t be home until way past 24 hours so praying tap water goes down

It looks like the ammonia is down a bit. We'll have to see what your tap water does in a few more hours.

Yes seems to be lower I can’t tell anymore my gf said it’s jot dark enough for 1 but not light enough for .5 lol

 

fluffysfishes they will breed into high 7 and as low as 6.5 but at 6.5 they seem to be a little slower and I don't have a answer as to why that is

 

fluffysfishes they will breed into high 7 and as low as 6.5 but at 6.5 they seem to be a little slower and I don't have a answer as to why that is

If I understand what I am reading then it seems the higher PH is actually better for breeding?

 

richie.p so I’m kinda screwed if my tap doesn’t get lower by tonight . I’m already lucky just checked San Francisco tap water report the range is 8.6-9.8 out of my tap is 8.4

 

mattgirl I think there's a very broad range for cherry to breed anywhere between 7&8 will give good results

 

My cherry shrimp are breeding fine in my tap water. Coming out of the tap it's 8.4. I do keep a bit of driftwood and an indian almond leaf in my shrimp tanks, mostly for the biofilm, etc. they provide the shrimp, not because of any pH concerns. Sometimes, the first generation in any tank can have some ... struggles .. but usually their babies and the future generations will thrive as long as the parameters stay consistent.

 

I am really glad some folks that know about shrimp have stopped by. It sounds to me like your high PH isn't going to be a problem for your shrimp. Now it sounds like it is just a matter of slowly raising the PH of your tank to match the PH of you tap with small water changes.

It is possible the lower PH in the tank is caused by the cycling process. Quite often cycling does lower it. That is one more thing I don't totally understand the science behind. I just know that it happens.

 

My fear is that the RCS fry will never survive the guppies. You will not have a sustainable population of RCS, if your ok with buying new RCS every 9-16 months and they are living ok. The leave it along.
I just don’t believe that shrimp and fish should be kept in the same tank. Fish eat shrimp.
understand that this is my opinion only I am aware of other reporting no issues it’s just not what I would do.

 

Wow 9.8 never come across that, you can only do your best at this point mattgirl & ETNsilverstar have been brilliant, all you can do is drip them slowly they are hardy and may well adapt you can't be the only one with shrimp in water like that in your city, it may be the best route if your constantly loosing fish and shrimp is RO water, but don't give up just yet play this through first

 

My cherry shrimp are breeding fine in my tap water. Coming out of the tap it's 8.4. I do keep a bit of driftwood and an indian almond leaf in my shrimp tanks, mostly for the biofilm, etc. they provide the shrimp, not because of any pH concerns. Sometimes, the first generation in any tank can have some ... struggles .. but usually their babies and the future generations will thrive as long as the parameters stay consistent.

This is a great news . The sides of my aquarium are where the babies cherry spend a lot of time their eating this white film thing which I assume is biofilm ? The ones that were newborn which have nearly no color are just grazing on my plants .

I am really glad some folks that know about shrimp have stopped by. It sounds to me like your high PH isn't going to be a problem for your shrimp. Now it sounds like it is just a matter of slowly raising the PH of your tank to match the PH of you tap with small water changes.

It is possible the lower PH in the tank is caused by the cycling process. Quite often cycling does lower it. That is one more thing I don't totally understand the science behind. I just know that it happens.

My tank is around 7 because I used the ph regulator that the lfs suggested me to use ?

By 9pm tonight if water doesn’t go down I will prime and drip it overnight into the tank

My guppies will be fine around 8.2/8.4?

My fear is that the RCS fry will never survive the guppies. You will not have a sustainable population of RCS, if your ok with buying new RCS every 9-16 months and they are living ok. The leave it along.
I just don’t believe that shrimp and fish should be kept in the same tank. Fish eat shrimp.
understand that this is my opinion only I am aware of other reporting no issues it’s just not what I would do.

I totally understand what your saying and don’t disagree with you . But at this moment I have at least 8-10. Cherry fry in the tank . I still see them and haven’t seen my guppies go at a shrimp yet ? Maybe it’s because my guppies are babies ?

 

Sorry didn't know you had babies there that put a new completion on things those babies would be acclamatised that's your future colony even if the new ones die but I hope not

 

Wow 9.8 never come across that, you can only do your best at this point mattgirl & ETNsilverstar have been brilliant, all you can do is drip them slowly they are hardy and may well adapt you can't be the only one with shrimp in water like that in your city, it may be the best route if your constantly loosing fish and shrimp is RO water, but don't give up just yet play this through first

Yeah . 9.8 in some parts of the city . So luckily mines is 8.4 . There are local people I see in San Francisco selling shrimp tried to ask them for help but no response . I haven’t lost any fish or shrimp yet . I did see some shrimp molts yesterday

Sorry didn't know you had babies there that put a new completion on things those babies would be acclamatised that's your future colony even if the new ones die but I hope not

Yes about a week when I got them one of the cherries gave birth actually watched it happen counted like 3-4 then she moved so probably had more

 

This is a great news . The sides of my aquarium are where the babies cherry spend a lot of time their eating this white film thing which I assume is biofilm ? The ones that were newborn which have nearly no color are just grazing on my plants .



My tank is around 7 because I used the ph regulator that the lfs suggested me to use ?

By 9pm tonight if water doesn’t go down I will prime and drip it overnight into the tank

My guppies will be fine around 8.2/8.4?

oops, I forgot about the regulator you added

I think your guppies will be fine in the higher PH too. Stable is much more important than a specific number. Once you get it up to the level of your tap water it should stay stable and all water pets should thrive.

 

It is possible the lower PH in the tank is caused by the cycling process. Quite often cycling does lower it. That is one more thing I don't totally understand the science behind. I just know that it happens.

It's been a while since I've been in a chem class, but let's see what I remember...

When nitrite is produced, it is most likely in the form of nitrous acid. The nitrite forms weak bonds with the hydrogen from the water. Since it only needs one hydrogen atom (and water is always one hydrogen, and one hydrogen/oxygen), you can get quite a bit of nitrous acid, and it will lower your pH. When nitrite becomes nitrate, the pH goes back up because nitrate needs two hydrogen atoms to form nitric acid. So by just going from one to the other, you halve the amount of acid that is in the water, so the pH goes back up.

There's a bit more to it with the strength of bonds between atoms and which has a stronger bond, how much energy is required to break the bonds, what else is in the water to bond to, etc., but I hope my description makes some sense.

I totally understand what your saying and don’t disagree with you . But at this moment I have at least 8-10. Cherry fry in the tank . I still see them and haven’t seen my guppies go at a shrimp yet ? Maybe it’s because my guppies are babies ?

As long as you have plenty of hiding spaces, the majority of your shrimp will survive. Sure, some will inevitably be eaten, but it will be far from needing to go buy more all the time because of it. Since your shrimp are already breeding, I doubt you'll find that they get eaten faster than they breed.

Also, all your fish will be fine in your tap pH. They have a preferred range, but the majority of hobby fish can adjust to what you have.

 

mattgirl ETNsilverstar when should I test for gh/kh in my tank and tap ? kh plays a roll in how well ph stays the same? the last time I checked my tap gh was 3 kh was 4 or it could of been the other way around.

 

mattgirl ETNsilverstar when should I test for gh/kh in my tank and tap ? kh plays a roll in how well ph stays the same?

I will be perfectly honest. I bought the kit for testing gh/kh. I used it exactly one time. I occasionally run the PH test but ran it a lot more often when I first set my tank back up 3 years ago to get a base line as to what my water perimeters were/are. I found that I had to add crushed coral because my water is very soft. Occasionally I add a few more pieces of crushed coral because I know it dissolves very slowly. I also keep seashells in my tanks for the same purpose. I don't run the test because the PH has not changed over the years.

I know keeping those numbers at a specific level is important when breeding fish that have to have perfect numbers but I'm not sure it is something to worry about under normal every day fish keeping. Again, in my humble opinion, stable is much more important than specific numbers.

After a while you will get a feel for what is going on and occasionally checking the PH will let you know if anything has changed. If your PH is stable I have to think the kh/gh will be too.

In your case it might be a good idea to run the PH test before each water change just in case something should happen and the PH in your water shoots up to the level some of your neighbors are dealing with.

You may find that you will always have to do small water changes but will have to do them more often than the normal once weekly. Testing it before each water change will determine how much you can safely change each time. If tank water and tap water is the same large water changes shouldn't be a problem. I actually recommend larger than normal water change at least once a month to reset the perimeters.

After topping off evaporated water a few times it will allow the minerals present in our water to build up in our tanks because the minerals don't evaporate. Adding water without removing any just keeps adding minerals. A bigger than normal water change helps keep them down.

 

I will be perfectly honest. I bought the kit for testing gh/kh. I used it exactly one time. I occasionally run the PH test but ran it a lot more often when I first set my tank back up 3 years ago to get a base line as to what my water perimeters were/are. I found that I had to add crushed coral because my water is very soft. Occasionally I add a few more pieces of crushed coral because I know it dissolves very slowly. I also keep seashells in my tanks for the same purpose. I don't run the test because the PH has not changed over the years.

I know keeping those numbers at a specific level is important when breeding fish that have to have perfect numbers but I'm not sure it is something to worry about under normal every day fish keeping. Again, in my humble opinion, stable is much more important than specific numbers.

After a while you will get a feel for what is going on and occasionally checking the PH will let you know if anything has changed. If your PH is stable I have to think the kh/gh will be too.

In your case it might be a good idea to run the PH test before each water change just in case something should happen and the PH in your water shoots up to the level some of your neighbors are dealing with.

You may find that you will always have to do small water changes but will have to do them more often than the normal once weekly. Testing it before each water change will determine how much you can safely change each time. If tank water and tap water is the same large water changes shouldn't be a problem. I actually recommend larger than normal water change at least once a month to reset the perimeters.

After topping off evaporated water a few times it will allow the minerals present in our water to build up in our tanks because the minerals don't evaporate. Adding water without removing any just keeps adding minerals. A bigger than normal water change helps keep them down.

so what your saying is. once I get my tank acclimated to my tap . it shouldnt matter as much what my gh/kh is ? because my new water from changes will be roughly the same as the tank and there wouldnt be any dramatic changes unless my tap goes up or down.

 

so what your saying is. once I get my tank acclimated to my tap . it shouldnt matter as much what my gh/kh is ? because my new water from changes will be roughly the same as the tank and there wouldnt be any dramatic changes unless my tap goes up or down.

that about sums it up

 

My water has high ph, but very low (zero) gh and high kh. My ph stays very stable because of the kh, but I have to add a gh booster to my water when I do water changes because low gh isn't good for neocaridinas.

 

My water has high ph, but very low (zero) gh and high kh. My ph stays very stable because of the kh, but I have to add a gh booster to my water when I do water changes because low gh isn't good for neocaridinas.

okay. let me get home later to see my waters ph after 24 hours and will test the kh/gh before I put it in . I'm pretty sure both mines were low unless I'm testing it wrong. if my first drop turned faint yellow for kh that is 1 right ?

 

You don't want anything below gh5 for Neocaradina

 

Your shrimp will need specific gH & kH, so I think it's something good to know just for them. As far as the water itself, if your pH doesn't change, it means your kH is good enough for pH stability. If your numbers are really 3 and 4, I'd recommend getting something to raise them a little. Without special additives, crushed coral will raise kH but I'm not sure what would raise gH.

 

You don't want anything below gh5 for Neocaradina

Your shrimp will need specific gH & kH, so I think it's something good to know just for them. As far as the water itself, if your pH doesn't change, it means your kH is good enough for pH stability. If your numbers are really 3 and 4, I'd recommend getting something to raise them a little. Without special additives, crushed coral will raise kH but I'm not sure what would raise gH.

Ok . Not exactly sure if I’m doing it correctly I’ll record myself dropping tonight and let you guys tell me

Your shrimp will need specific gH & kH, so I think it's something good to know just for them. As far as the water itself, if your pH doesn't change, it means your kH is good enough for pH stability. If your numbers are really 3 and 4, I'd recommend getting something to raise them a little. Without special additives, crushed coral will raise kH but I'm not sure what would raise gH.

I’ve read a little about salty shrimp gh+?

 

Salty shrimp makes one that raises just gh and one that raises both gh and kh I believe.

 

mattgirl ETNsilverstar helpppppp . Something is wrong . My ammonia went down but my ph is 6 now In the tank .

Tap is still around 8.2-8.0 so dosed prime and dripping in now

My tap is gh 3 kh 5 btw including first drops

 

If I were you I would start gradually doing water changes to slowly start bringing the PH up. I supposed it is possible that the PH regulator is still affecting the PH level. Just don't panic and start moving too fast or adding things to fix it. The low PH might slow down your cycle but that is all it should do.

I would just remove 10% of the water and add it back very very slowly. I would do it daily until the PH stabilizes to the same as your tap water.

 

If I were you I would start gradually doing water changes to slowly start bringing the PH up. I supposed it is possible that the PH regulator is still affecting the PH level. Just don't panic and start moving too fast or adding things to fix it. The low PH might slow down your cycle but that is all it should do.

I would just remove 10% of the water and add it back very very slowly. I would do it daily until the PH stabilizes to the same as your tap water.

Okay I am doing it now removed about 10% of the water and dripping it in about 2 drops a second . What’s makes no sense
is no one is phased by it ? My guppies are eating and shrimp are going nuts once I dropped in a piece of algae wafer

 

Okay I am doing it now removed about 10% of the water and dripping it in about 2 drops a second . What’s makes no sense View attachment 528987 is no one is phased by it ? My guppies are eating and shrimp are going nuts once I dropped in a piece of algae wafer

I wouldn't expect the gradual drop in PH or the low PH to cause them any stress. I am happy to see that it isn't. Getting it up to your tap water level very gradually shouldn't either.

The main reason for getting it up now is to make doing water changes easier on you and to prevent shock to them. Now that you are no longer adding the PH regulator the slow water changes should gradually get it up where it needs to be so you can do water changes as needed without worrying about the difference between tank and tap water.

 

I wouldn't expect the gradual drop in PH or the low PH to cause them any stress. I am happy to see that it isn't. Getting it up to your tap water level very gradually shouldn't either.

The main reason for getting it up now is to make doing water changes easier on you and to prevent shock to them. Now that you are no longer adding the PH regulator the slow water changes should gradually get it up where it needs to be so you can do water changes as needed without worrying about the difference between tank and tap water.

Okay . This will probably take a while using 1/2 gallon plastic Togo containers to drip it in so far got about 1 gallon in . I took out approx 1.5 gallons . Is my kh 5 and gh 3 ok from tap? Kh = buffer capacity ? Don’t understand it at all . Should I get the salty shrimp gh/kh+?

 

Okay . This will probably take a while using 1/2 gallon plastic Togo containers to drip it in so far got about 1 gallon in . I took out approx 1.5 gallons . Is my kh 5 and gh 3 ok from tap? Kh = buffer capacity ? Don’t understand it at all . Should I get the salty shrimp gh/kh+?

I don't completely understand what the kh/gh needs to be and what is good or not so good. I know I have soft water with a fairly low PH from the tap (7.2). My gh is 5 and kh is 3 so pretty much just the opposite of yours.

Hopefully someone that understands it better than I do will be able to help you with what your numbers mean.

 

I don't completely understand what the kh/gh needs to be and what is good or not so good. I know I have soft water with a fairly low PH from the tap (7.2). My gh is 5 and kh is 3 so pretty much just the opposite of yours.

Hopefully someone that understands it better than I do will be able to help you with what your numbers mean.

I never fill my tank all the way up about an inch to the top and I have an inch of substrate . Should I just mix some same temp water and fill it all the way up when I’m done with the 1.5g? Or is that too much change

 

I never fill my tank all the way up about an inch to the top and I have an inch of substrate . Should I just mix some same temp water and fill it all the way up when I’m done with the 1.5g? Or is that too much change

I would run the PH test on the tank and see where you are. If it has gone up any at all I would wait until tomorrows water change to add more than I took out this time. You can gradually add a bit more than you take out with each water change until get it filled to where you want the the level to be.

 

G

I would run the PH test on the tank and see where you are. If it has gone up any at all I would wait until tomorrows water change to add more than I took out this time. You can gradually add a bit more than you take out with each water change until get it filled to where you want the the level to be.

Good news ammonia went down !! I think .25 and nitrates also to 20
Ph seems to be little darker than 6.0 maybe 6.2?

 

Salty shrimp GH/KH is normally usd in RO water where everything comes out at 0 and ph 7= neutral I've attached document for mattgirl and you to read it may give you a better understanding,

This is the defacto standard in remineralisers world wide. Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ is used to increase the mineral content soft water, RO/DI or rain water to a level suitable for shrimp. Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ increases GH AND KH (ratio 1:0.5)! Since KH has an influence on PH, this mineral is especially suited for shrimp that like higher PH and/or harder water like Cherry/Neocariddina and SulawesI Shrimp.

Shrimp Mineral GH/KH+ has been especially designed for the preparation of neutral aquarium water for keeping and breeding shrimp. It re-mineralises e.g. RO water, rainwater, fully desalinated water etc., raising total hardness (°dGH) and carbonate hardness (KH) at a ratio of °dGH/KH: 1.0/0.5. Especially shrimp from habitats with a neutral pH do very well in water prepared with this mineral salt.

Shrimp Mineral GH/KH+ contains all the important minerals and trace elements your shrimp need for their well-being, an intensive colouration, successful breeding and healthy growth. It also furthers plant growth and the microbial regeneration of biological filter substrates.

 

I don't think your kh is bad. Your gh is a little low, but if your shrimp are happy and having babies, I wouldn't mess with it.

 

View attachment 528997 G


Good news ammonia went down !! I think .25 and nitrates also to 20
Ph seems to be little darker than 6.0 maybe 6.2?

It is good that it raised your PH that little bit and even better that it is lowering the ammonia. That is the way you are wanting to do it for the health of your fish and shrimp. Rapid changes in PH isn't good. Doing it this way should protect your water pets.

If you have time to do it you could do these very small water changes every 12 hours. By using the drip method the PH is rising very slowly and preventing drastic changes. I am just hoping that whatever was causing it to get so low won't undo the work you are doing.

It is possible that it will continue doing it until you have changed out enough water to get all of the PH regulator out of there. Only time and water changes will answer that question.