Need Help on Planning Installation of Refugium

Terrance
Member
Hello

I've been doing Freshwater for the last year. I'm ready to dive into Saltwater keeping and do a 120 gallon FOWLR with refugium. My only fish will be a porcupine puffer. I want to use the fuge for some marcoalgae and anything else the keeps my water as clean as possible.

I read everywhere that drilling a tank is highly recommended, so I'm going to follow the words of the wise. Ok so I'll take my 120 gallon to a glass shop and get them to drill it (hopefully the 4 side glass are not tempered).

Glass Hole Complete kit 1500
& Return complete kit (not sure which one)
Then buy some flex pipes to connect everything together.

Sump:
DIY 3 chamber 40 gallon breeder

Skimmer:
Unknown, I'm still looking to get one from a local reefer or buy a new octopus

Return Pump:
Unknown

Powerheads:
Two Korolia 750

Substrate:
80-90lbs of aragonite sand

Lighting:
Some T8 standard fluorescent lighting


I had to edit this post since I found a bunch of answers from reading other people's build. Any suggestions so far?
 
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Mike
Moderator
Member
I have a 120 Oceanic Tech tank () and use a 40 gallon breeder tank for my sump with 2 chambers. I have my drain line going into the left side of the sump along with the protein skimmer. The sump has 3 glass plates in the middle for a bubble trap. On the right side of the sump are the biopellet reactors, carbon reactor and eheim 1262 return pump (900 gph). I use pvc for the drain lines from the tank and flexible tubing for the return lines.

Are you going to use an internal overflow box? You could hide the drain and return holes behind the overflow.

I had chaeto on the left side of the sump for a long time but got tired of it getting into the right side of the sump and cloggin up the return pump and reactor pumps so I pulled it all out and now just use the biopellets for nitrate and phosphate reduction. I try to keep my tank very low on the nutrient side by wet skimming, ro/dI water top offs, regular partial water changes, and the biopellets.
 
  • Thread Starter
Terrance
Member
Nice, my build is similar to your build.

Mike said:
Are you going to use an internal overflow box? You could hide the drain and return holes behind the overflow.
Is the glass-hole overflow kit an "internal overflow box" that you're talking about? I don't mind if stuff is showing. Do most hobbyist paint the background black? I've never given any of my other tanks backgrounds. All of them have been clear and everyone can see the equipment.

I'll think about the biopellets. It's one more thing I need to buy in the long-term, or I could get free chaeto for the rest of my life (from other local hobbyist). If I use biopellets or chaeto, will anything else help improve my water quality (my #1 and only goal with this fuge)? Will deep sand bed help at all? Do you recommend rubble rocks inside the refuge?
 
  • Moderator
Mike
Moderator
Member
Terrance said:
Is the glass-hole overflow kit an "internal overflow box" that you're talking about? I don't mind if stuff is showing. Do most hobbyist paint the background black? I've never given any of my other tanks backgrounds. All of them have been clear and everyone can see the equipment.

I'll think about the biopellets. It's one more thing I need to buy in the long-term, or I could get free chaeto for the rest of my life (from other local hobbyist). If I use biopellets or chaeto, will anything else help improve my water quality (my #1 and only goal with this fuge)? Will deep sand bed help at all? Do you recommend rubble rocks inside the refuge?
Looking at the video on this page it looks like they are internal. I let the back wall of my reef tank get encrusted with the purple coralline algae. I kinda like it.

Try the chaeto first, it'll definitely be cheaper than investing in the biopellets and a reactor. The chaeto will work well in the refugium too. You just need to get one handful of it and it should grow for you. It's pretty hardy stuff. I think of a refugium more as a place to grow foods (pods) for the livestock in the display tank, rather than a filter though.

Deep sand beds - I haven't experimented with them myself because I've never had nitrate isses, but remote deep sand beds are helpful in removing nitrates/denitrification. ()
 

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