Need An Awkward Stand

Sheldon13
  • #1
Got a used 60 gallon corner tank. I don’t trust the stand it came with as it has obviously been wet in the past. I wanted to make a stand from cinder blocks but I can’t seem to configure it to support the tank on all edges because of the weird shape. Help! I want to get this set up ASAP so I can get my figure 8s!
 
kallililly1973
  • #2
Can you set up 4x4x4 cinderblocks in a triangle shape then cut a piece of plywood to rest on it and support the corners while the entire tank rests on the plywood. I'd recommend at least 3/4" plywood for your stand
 
abbytherookiehuman
  • #3
Can you post a photo of the tank along with dimensions
 
Sheldon13
  • Thread Starter
  • #4
Yes definitely. At work now but this evening I’ll take measurements and get back to you.
 
Truckjohn
  • #5
A 60 gallon tank will be 600lbs full up with substrate, decorations, filter, and associated stuff. That's a lot of weight.

I would build 3/4" plywood and 2x6 "Deck" with maybe 8" joist spacing - then lay that on top of the blocks. I would do the blocks around the outside as well as at least 1 column in the middle.
 
Sheldon13
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
See the problem is, I’m no carpenter. I don’t know the lingo, I barely know how to use a power drill, I know nothing of the physics.

Here are some pictures. The measurements are:
23x23 at the right angle
22.5 front panel
8 side panels
22 deep
27 tall


64ce1fa7af2091f81d58d3b9899f6fd2.jpg
c9f85f04806ac3e50b7029cdd368daba.jpg

cf20bb9cf69a0407d9f66b9b8c97894f.jpg

Also, pardon my mess. I’ve never redone silicone before and it ain’t going so well.
 
qquake2k
  • #7
I would keep the stand. It looks fine to me, unless there's some serious hidden water damage and/or wood rot. If you're concerned about it, strengthen it on the inside. Do you know anyone who is handy that would help you?

I've never siliconed a tank, so I can't help you there.
 
Sheldon13
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
I would keep the stand. It looks fine to me, unless there's some serious hidden water damage and/or wood rot. If you're concerned about it, strengthen it on the inside. Do you know anyone who is handy that would help you?

I've never siliconed a tank, so I can't help you there.

Well, not only is it warped in places but on one side it’s leaning about 10 degrees.
 
zby67
  • #9
Well, not only is it warped in places but on one side it’s leaning about 10 degrees.

mine is on an uneven floor.... but I get what your saying. you can try and build one yourself or try and find one or something that would work on facebook or something.
 
qquake2k
  • #10
Well, not only is it warped in places but on one side it’s leaning about 10 degrees.

That does sound dodgy. It could probably be rebuilt, but would require a modicum of woodworking skill.
 
jpm995
  • #11
Maybe some 2x2's on the inside to shore up the stand. Unless the wood is badly damaged it usually works ok. Are you sure it the stand not the floor that's unlevel?
 
Sheldon13
  • Thread Starter
  • #12

410cd1998cc20236fa16bae50845dd11.jpg
ba139bf10a6a858ff9da558496b5ab9f.jpg
0585479a5cab9709dd0e1cafcd7220f5.jpg
Don’t know if you can tell in the last picture but it sits lower on the right. It also wobbles quite easily.
 
abbytherookiehuman
  • #13
I'm guessing you're talking inches. You could probably find a vanity stand online or at Myer or something
You could also consider placing it somewhere like in a corner in your living room or kitchen bench. If you've got a string table or a marble bench or something like that it should hold and would look quite nice
 
jpm995
  • #14
Is the stand on wheels? I'd remove them and put a throw rug or rubber mat under stand. Glue and screw weak joints if wood is solid, reinforce with 2x2" if needed. Floor looks more cosmetic damage than structural. Could sand down floor to make it useable. Edit to say if their feet not wheels remove them, should make stand sit rock solid on floor.
 
JayH
  • #15
If you want to go the cinder block route, I'd do three columns -- one along each wall in the corner and one aligned with the front of the tank. Space them so they're centered along each of those edges of the tank. Get a piece of 3/4" plywood cut to the base dimensions of the tank. Might want to cheat 1/2" or so in each dimension to be sure nothing will hang over. Put the plywood on top of the cinder blocks and the tank on top of the plywood. The plywood supports the tank all around and the weight is transferred to the cinder blocks. You're going to want to be sure the top of the plywood is level before putting on the tank. You can use wood shims (ask at the hardware store) to raise any low spots. I'd put something heavy in the center of the plywood while adjusting just to be sure it's not riding high on one of the block columns.

If you want to try the existing stand, I agree that you should remove the wheels. That's a LOT of weight being transferred to the floor in what amounts to about four square inches. At the very least you're going to end up with flat spots on the wheels, which may be why it's rocking now. Without the wheels the weight is distributed over a much greater area and it should be pretty solid. You'd still want to be sure it's level before filling the tank with water.

Other than being a bit "weathered", the stand appears to be fairly well designed. The dado joint used to support what I take is the top shows that whoever built this knew what they were doing. That's a strong joint that transfers the weight directly to the vertical board. They also used decent plywood rather than some kind of pressed board material where it's half glue. I'd try to salvage it. Maybe put a new back on it using 1/2" plywood securely screwed in place, That would stiffen everything up nicely.

To get straight lines with the new silicone, put painters tape on the inside glass aligned to where you want the edge of the silicone. Half an inch from the corner would be good. You could maybe go closer if you want a very minimalist look. Peel the tape off right after you apply and smooth the silicone. You'll get a very neat line exactly where you had the tape. You can draw lines on the outside glass to help with alignment and get a straight line with the tape.
 
qquake2k
  • #16
I didn't even notice the wheels. I would definitely remove them so the stand is flat on the floor.
 
Skavatar
  • #17
I'm not an architect or engineer, so this is my best drawing. 4 columns of the 8x8x8 concrete blocks. Angelus Block 8 in. x 8 in. x 8 in. Gray Concrete Block-088B0050100100 - The Home Depot


full.jpg

here's a better drawing

full.jpg
 
Sheldon13
  • Thread Starter
  • #18
Wow thanks so much for the ideas everyone! I didn’t even think about using tape for the silicone.

I think I’m going to remove the wheels and try to salvage. If it’s uneven still I will use the concrete blocks.
 
JayH
  • #19
I didn’t even think about using tape for the silicone.
It makes for a much neater line. Feather the silicone so it's pretty thin next to the tape. And be sure to pull the tape while the silicone is still wet. Otherwise you'll leave tape on the glass or be pulling up chunks of cured silicone. It's not like you have to pull it instantly, but don't leave it more than half an hour.
 
Sheldon13
  • Thread Starter
  • #20
Ok so room the wheels off, there was more water damage than anticipated. It was a salt water previously so that didn’t help. Will be going the cinder block route.
 

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