Mystery Snail Care/sickness Guide

Pringlethesnail

Member
Mystery snail care/sickness guide
Because very little information is known about mystery snails I want to make a full guide of everything I have learned in my years of keeping and breeding mystery snails. I will be posting this on several sites and I mean no harm to any existing care sheets. Please comment questions or suggestions.

Mystery snails are golf ball sized freshwater aquarium snails with the scientific name Pomacea diffusa. They are often called Inca snails or Apple snails. Often also referred to as Apple snails are the much larger (apple sized) Pomacea canaliculata and Pomacea maculata. This is where the confusion comes from; Pomacea means apple snail. Therefor all three of these snails are different types of apple snails (The same as house cats, pumas, and lions are all cats). To avoid confusion their common names are as follows: Pomacea diffusa= Mystery snail, Pomacea calaliculata= Cana snail, and Pomacea maculata= Maca snail. This care sheet applies to Mystery snails only.

Feeding- These snails need their own diet. They cannot live off of algae or left over fish food. They are OMNIVOROUS so they need to be eating sinking pellets containing some sort of meat. They digest small sinking wafers the best. Ingredients to look for in a good pellet/wafer (in no specific order) are: krill, fish, silkworm pupae, seaweed, spirulina, shrimp, crab, etc. They should be fed a sinking pellet containing some of these things at least every-other day. 1-2x a week you can feed them algae wafers or blanched vegetables if you want, but they have no dietary need for them.

Heating- Tank should always be between 75-80 with 78F being optimal temperature.

Ph- 7-8, but it is more important to be consistent. It is okay to use natural methods to slightly alter the ph such as crushed coral or limestone to raise ph and driftwood or peat moss to lower it. Chemicals should never be used to alter ph. The fluctuation of ph when using chemicals is more dangerous than having it be steady a little below or above these numbers.

Water parameters- anything above zero ammonia or nitrites is toxic to these snails. They are especially sensitive to nitrites. Higher nitrates (around 40) doesn't effect them so don't worry if your water comes out from your tap with higher nitrates. The water should be about three inches from the top to leave room for breathing.

Stocking- numbers are a maximum based on an average cycled, filtered, heated tank.
3 gallons- Minimum size for 1 snail with no tank mates except smaller low bio-load snails (nerites, trumpets).
5 gallons-1 non-aggressive Betta* (preferably female)+ 1 snail ,OR three snails.
7 gallons- 1 non-aggressive Betta* + 3 snails, OR up to 5 snails
10 gallon filtered, cycled tank- up to 8 mystery snails with no tank mates, OR up to 5 and a Betta*.
Unless you are running an established (finished cycling over 5 months ago) 10+ gallon tank AND are running double the tank size in filter capacity you should not break from these maximums.

Tank mates- any peaceful fish that will not nip at their antennas, other snails, shrimp.
*****Bettas (especially males) are aggressive and territorial. Mystery snails have long antennas that they wave around that look VERY much like a tasty worm to even the most passive Betta. Before buying a mystery snail for your Betta tank, you need to have an alternate 3+ gallon tank heated and ready for the snail if it cannot live with the Betta. Signs that your snail is being bullied or injured by your fish is if its antennas are short, it walks around with its antennas curled up by its eyes, or if it closes up all the way or flinches hard when your fish comes near it (more than a small surprised flinch).

Basic Anatomy



Snorkel/siphon - used for breathing air from the surface. These snails have gills and a lung, but they need to supplement the oxygen obtained from the gills with air from the surface. Snails do this regularly and it is not a cause for concern or an indication that your water is not aerated enough.

Operculum - oval piece of shell that covers the opening of the shell when the snail retracts.

Mouth- small downward facing mouth, has teeth but they are not strong enough to scrape algae off decorations or glass.

Osphradium- what they use to smell for food, it's on their left side just inside their shell, NOT a sex organ.

Antennas- They use these to feel their way around and judge if they can reach something with their foot because their eyesight is poor.

Sexing- extremely difficult, you have to see far up under the shell unless they have it out during or after intercourse.



Illness/injury

Swollen, wavy, discharging foot- causes: poor water quality, reaction to a chemical recently added, and rarely old age. Test water, do immediate large water changes especially if more than one snail has these symptoms. This is easily fixable and indicates irritation and bad water rather than sickness. If not taken care of the snail can become sick. Most often caused by chemicals such as "invert safe" plant fertilizer or anything with copper in it. If their foot is very swollen and they're having trouble getting around they "tiptoe" this is more common in very old snails that are near death.


Receding operculum- best indicator of sickness in mystery snails. Small circle of receding means they're sick. Test the water and monitor the snail and changes in operculum. Bigger circle of receding means the snail is very ill, and dying. This is most often caused by sickness or old age. When sick, Mystery snails are more sensitive to water quality, but also large water changes. If this happens do multiple smaller water changes such as 25% a day for 4 days. Remember when testing the water that even the slighest bit of ammonia or nitrite can prevent an already sick snail from healing. If you have had the snail more than 6 months, it is likely to be old age.


Mantle collapse- can happen partially or fully and for a variety of reasons. This is lethal. Make the snail as comfortable as possible by putting them in a cup or container of tank water deep enough to cover them and float the container in the tank for warmth. Consider "putting them down" (crushing them quickly in some way) if you feel comfortable.


Floating- Mystery snails do this on PURPOSE!!!! When they are not feeling well they funnel air into their shell so they can float. This is because they are too weak to keep climbing up the side of the tank for air. These snails can push air in and out of their shells to float or sink. Females often float after they lay eggs because they got air in their shell while laying eggs, BUT don't want to push it out yet, they want to float and relax. Floating might mean a snail is weak, but it doesn't mean they're sick unless they also have some of the symptoms above. You should leave them alone when they're floating except to move them away from the filter or make sure they're alive.

Shell health- Cuttlebone is widely recommended on this site for some reason, HOWEVER it is not effective in a tank bigger than 5 gallons. I recommend to everyone to purchase calcium powder from the reptile section. Make sure the only ingredients are calcium and maybe vitamin D3. During your weekly water change add a tablespoon for every 20 gallons in the tank. You can do up to two tablespoons the first time or any time you feel you need a boost. This will take around 1-3 to completely dissolve into the water so it will be cloudy initially. If any calcium settles you can stir the water to finish dissolving. You can buy this on Amazon by searching "calcium powder for reptiles" or at almost any store that sells reptiles. This will not harm fish, shrimp, or other snail species.


Common questions/concerns

Should I get a mystery snail to clean my algae?
-No. As states above they need to eat almost every day with an omnivorous diet, also they have a high bio-load, and their teeth are not strong enough to scrape algae off. They may snack on the top layer or some loose pieces, but will not clean it.

Why hasn't my new mystery snail "come out" yet?/ Why has my mystery closed up for a few days?
-If you smelled it and pushed gently on the operculum to make sure it was alive. Try floating it in a container with only enough water to barely cover it. Float this container inside the tank to keep it warm. This will usually work.

What is the black line on the side of my snail's shell?
-On the same side as the whorl you can often see a snail's digestive tract through its shell. I shows especially well on light colored snails.

i'll add more as I think of them and they get asked.

For snail emergencies you can contact my snail email.
Happy snailing






 

BBnL

Member
In your water parameters paragraph you say "sensitive to nitrates" when I think you mean NITRITES for you then say nitrates ok to 40.

Thank you for info and photos!!

Just started reading labels. All hikarI pellets I have, algae, crab food , etc have copper sulfate.
Aqueon floating flakes...copper sulfate. Shrimp pellets, aqueon, copper sulfate.
All one of last listed, but still there. My snails exposed to all, seem ok, but will they be harmed over time?
How much is needed vs harmful?
 
  • Thread Starter

Pringlethesnail

Member
Great question! Copper sulfate is used to prevent fungus growth on the food. It is used on human food as well. In larger doses it’s lethal to aquatic life. Snails are especially sensitive to this, but it is used in almost all fish food. As long as it’s at the very end of the ingredient list it is fine. This is another reason why it is important that the food doesn’t sit in the tank more than 2 hours. I’ve noticed that when these foods sit too long and “dirty” the water. The snails foot becomes more irritated than it should from food waste. This can be solved by several large water changes. So it’s fine, as long as it’s not dirtying the water
 

Bithimala

Member
Pringlethesnail can I go through and combine your info with the care sheet that we have stickied in the snail forms so that it's all in one place and easy for people to find?
 

BBnL

Member


What am I seeing?
 

Bithimala

Member
Pringlethesnail said:
Is there any way to pin this one?
Would have to get the mods to approve and pin it, which could be done. I would just be concerned it might cause confusion having the two pinned, which is why I was thinking I could just edit the one I put togther a few years ago. You've got a lot of great info in here, but don't want to take your stuff and add it without your ok.
 
  • Thread Starter

Pringlethesnail

Member
BBnL said:
Poor little guy! Very very swollen. This could be really bad water quality, a chemical in the water the snail is reacting to, or trauma like falling out of the tank or having a rock fall on him. Change the water if it is a water problem, either way you should put him in a container floating in the tank with only enough water to cover him. Lay him in his side, spiral side down so that the breathing tube is right below the surface.
 

Siphon

Member
What do you think of this?

jesus murphy! Iam almost worried its going to smother Phillip J Fry and his 7 brothers Fryday, The frying dutchman, French Fry, Deep Fry, FryMason, and Carl
 
  • Thread Starter

Pringlethesnail

Member
HAHA I JUST LAUGHED SO HARD AT THAT. Yes that powder is perfect and it should be cleared up by now! Omg I actually can’t stop laughing! You broke me. It concerned my fish the first few weeks I did it but now they don’t care. That’s about what mine looks like for an hour or two. I’m seriously dying. I’m sick so I keep laughing and coughing and laughing again!
 

Siphon

Member
Hahaha awesome. All I can say is half a table spoon might be much for the 5 gallon, everythings white in it now
 

Skye_marilyn

Member
Pringlethesnail said:
Mystery snail care/sickness guide
Wow! Thanks for all the info! I am going to start making some calcium, krill, veggie snail gel soon as well as adding calcium powder. My snailies are so cute and luckily haven’t exhibited signs like these since I had to rescue them from a dirty store with about 20-50 mystery snails (some bigger than an apricot) as well as a ton of nerites (about the size of a jawbreaker) in a 5 gallon tank. They are happy campers now but boy do they poop. I put some krill pellets in there to get their attention, it’s so cute how they crawl towards the pellets and slurp them up their little “trunk”.
 

DaleM

Member
Pringlethesnail said:
HAHA I JUST LAUGHED SO HARD AT THAT. Yes that powder is perfect and it should be cleared up by now! Omg I actually can’t stop laughing! You broke me. It concerned my fish the first few weeks I did it but now they don’t care. That’s about what mine looks like for an hour or two. I’m seriously dying. I’m sick so I keep laughing and coughing and laughing again!
Great write up! (Not this, the original post, haha!)

Quick question, is the liquid calcium used in marine tanks for coral and invertebrate health suitable? Or some calcium tablets from the pharmacy crushed up? Finding it difficult to find calcium powder at any of my LFS, even though they sell reptile stuff
 
  • Thread Starter

Pringlethesnail

Member
Skye_marilyn They’re so stinking adorable! They actually look really good so wherever the store got them from must have been a good home. I always go and check out the store before I sell them mystery snails to make sure they’re taken care of. One store had them in a 3.5 gallon with the water directly up to lid (literally zero air) and just a bubbler, no heater. These poor babies were shoving their snorkels on the lid trying to find air. I told the manager they couldn’t breathe and he was like okay whatever. So I told the assistant manager and he took a cup of water out for them to have space and the manager got mad at him. They had an amazing store and their fish were so well taken care of but I never went back there and I definitely didn’t give them any of my snail children. Anyway, a lot of pooping is good it means they’re well fed!

DaleM
I’ve never personally decided it was worth it to risk it. One thing is that liquid calcium is around 4% calcium and the powder is around 40%. So I think you’d need to add a lot of the liquid. The liquid is 96% water already. At some point I want to get a calcium test kit and try it in a empty tank to figure out dosage and if the cost is worth it, but I don’t have the time and money right now. I would just stick with what you know works for now. Also, calcium tablets for people are a no go because they have a ton of other ingredients in them. I’m not sure what area you’re in but they have powder at petco and petsmart and you can order it on amazon.
 

Skye_marilyn

Member
Pringlethesnail said:
Skye_marilyn They’re so stinking adorable! They actually look really good so wherever the store got them from must have been a good home. I always go and check out the store before I sell them mystery snails to make sure they’re taken care of. One store had them in a 3.5 gallon with the water directly up to lid (literally zero air) and just a bubbler, no heater. These poor babies were shoving their snorkels on the lid trying to find air. I told the manager they couldn’t breathe and he was like okay whatever. So I told the assistant manager and he took a cup of water out for them to have space and the manager got mad at him. They had an amazing store and their fish were so well taken care of but I never went back there and I definitely didn’t give them any of my snail children. Anyway, a lot of pooping is good it means they’re well fed!

DaleM
I’ve never personally decided it was worth it to risk it. One thing is that liquid calcium is around 4% calcium and the powder is around 40%. So I think you’d need to add a lot of the liquid. The liquid is 96% water already. At some point I want to get a calcium test kit and try it in a empty tank to figure out dosage and if the cost is worth it, but I don’t have the time and money right now. I would just stick with what you know works for now. Also, calcium tablets for people are a no go because they have a ton of other ingredients in them. I’m not sure what area you’re in but they have powder at petco and petsmart and you can order it on amazon.
Btw that box is not their whole tank, the tank is actually 10 gallons but the betta was being mean so they are in a breeder box. I’m just keeping them in a breeder box until I’ve got my 20 long set up. They eat like crazy, I feed them soaked pellets, repashy, zucchini, cucumber, algae from around the tank they love it. Poor things were not good at all when I bought them (all swollen, inactive, digging under the substrate, not eating) luckily now they live in clean, warm water with lots of food!
 

DaleM

Member
Pringlethesnail said:
Skye_marilyn They’re so stinking adorable! They actually look really good so wherever the store got them from must have been a good home. I always go and check out the store before I sell them mystery snails to make sure they’re taken care of. One store had them in a 3.5 gallon with the water directly up to lid (literally zero air) and just a bubbler, no heater. These poor babies were shoving their snorkels on the lid trying to find air. I told the manager they couldn’t breathe and he was like okay whatever. So I told the assistant manager and he took a cup of water out for them to have space and the manager got mad at him. They had an amazing store and their fish were so well taken care of but I never went back there and I definitely didn’t give them any of my snail children. Anyway, a lot of pooping is good it means they’re well fed!

DaleM
I’ve never personally decided it was worth it to risk it. One thing is that liquid calcium is around 4% calcium and the powder is around 40%. So I think you’d need to add a lot of the liquid. The liquid is 96% water already. At some point I want to get a calcium test kit and try it in a empty tank to figure out dosage and if the cost is worth it, but I don’t have the time and money right now. I would just stick with what you know works for now. Also, calcium tablets for people are a no go because they have a ton of other ingredients in them. I’m not sure what area you’re in but they have powder at petco and petsmart and you can order it on amazon.
I'm in Australia, very hard to get stuff over here a lot of the time!

DaleM said:
I'm in Australia, very hard to get stuff over here a lot of the time!
Found some at the LFS, has vitamin D3 in it too though. About 37% calcium. Can get pure calcium powder online so will order.
 
  • Thread Starter

Pringlethesnail

Member
That’s what I use. Mine is 38% and has vitamin D. If you get pure calcium be careful with the dosing because they can over dose. Maybe do 1/4 of what I recommended above to be safe.
 

DaleM

Member
Pringlethesnail said:
That’s what I use. Mine is 38% and has vitamin D. If you get pure calcium be careful with the dosing because they can over dose. Maybe do 1/4 of what I recommended above to be safe.
Just added 4-5 teaspoons of the calcium + vitD into my 35g, so about 1.5 tablespoons. Very cloudy of course for a few hours, but has settled down. Hopefully the tetras, corys and cherry barbs don't mind the calcium hit!
 

Goldie&Yami

Member
Skye_marilyn said:
Btw that box is not their whole tank, the tank is actually 10 gallons but the betta was being mean so they are in a breeder box. I’m just keeping them in a breeder box until I’ve got my 20 long set up. They eat like crazy, I feed them soaked pellets, repashy, zucchini, cucumber, algae from around the tank they love it. Poor things were not good at all when I bought them (all swollen, inactive, digging under the substrate, not eating) luckily now they live in clean, warm water with lots of food!
This repashy looks like a great food for them! What do you think Pringlethesnail? I'm thinking about trying it out.
 
  • Thread Starter

Pringlethesnail

Member
I don’t know what that is! I looked it up and it seemed like a brand. Which product are you using from them?
 

Skye_marilyn

Member
Pringlethesnail said:
I don’t know what that is! I looked it up and it seemed like a brand. Which product are you using from them?
I use community plus bc it has more protein than soilent green. It does have a tiny bit of copper for preservative but I’ve been feeding it since I got them, never seen an adverse effects. I would worry about it.
 
  • Thread Starter

Pringlethesnail

Member
That copper compound is called minurex or something like that. It’s new they approved it to fatten up chickens and cows but it hasn’t been tested on inverts I don’t think. Also that food has added salt which is a little concerning for snails. Other than that it looks like it’s a good food for them. I would be really careful not to overfeed though because the copper or salt could seep into the water. I say the same thing about the copper sulfate in the other foods as well
 

Skye_marilyn

Member
Pringlethesnail said:
That copper compound is called minurex or something like that. It’s new they approved it to fatten up chickens and cows but it hasn’t been tested on inverts I don’t think. Also that food has added salad which is a little concerning for snails. Other than that it looks like it’s a good food for them. I would be really careful not to overfeed though because the copper or salt could seep into the water. I say the same thing about the copper sulfate in the other foods as well
Hmm...I’m not sure that there’s a connection there but they normally gobble it within an hour or two. I plan on switching them to clay neighbor’s omnivore crumble. What do you mean by salad?
 
  • Thread Starter

Pringlethesnail

Member
Skye_marilyn said:
Hmm...I’m not sure that there’s a connection there but they normally gobble it within an hour or two. I plan on switching them to clay neighbor’s omnivore crumble. What do you mean by salad?
Oh geez I meant SALT. I was very tired. I heard they were going to do safety trials with cone snails (which these are) when I get a chance I’ll see if any data is out
 

Skye_marilyn

Member
Pringlethesnail said:
Oh geez I meant SALT. I was very tired. I heard they were going to do safety trials with come snails (which these are) when I get a chance I’ll see if any data is out
I received my clay neighbor’s herbivore/omnivore crumble and they love it!

Ingredients: whole manhaden fish meal, green pea flour, kelp, corn bran, human grade spirulina, fish oil, Astaxanthin, paprika, cayenne pepper

32.9% protein
22.7% starch
21.7% fiber
10.5% ash
5.5% fat
4.7% moisture
2% sugar

Just look at them fighting over the last pieces! No salt or copper either, 82% digestible and a long list of vitamins. I really like that it dehydrated not baked so it still has all the vitamins and it softens the moment you plop it in. Don’t put in too much, it triples in size once you drop it in and falls apart, only feed a pea sized amount at a time. I strongly recommend if you own snailies.
 

fishiiis

Member
Hi, I just joined and am relatively new at keeping a planted aquarium - 60 gallon. I decided to reinstate my old 10 gallon tank for transferring new fish. However, I developed a pond snail overpopulation which led to getting some Assassin snails, and then I was hooked. I added one gold and one black Mystery snail, and one Bristlenose Pleco, to the 10 gallon yesterday and am very pleased to find the info for their care in this forum. I am going to get the appropriate nutrients immediately.

As of today, the gold snail is still. She(?) was very active yesterday when I brought them home. I fed them flakes and an algae wafer today, which was enjoyed by the others.
Something must have happened? She may have fallen from the side of the tank because I did NOT know to leave enough room at the top? There is plenty of room now, and the other snail is fine.

I would like to make her well and comfortable and have a question about the care sheet posted by Pringlethesnail. How do you float a snail in a container in the tank? I have no idea what kind of container will work. Can someone be more descriptive? Will this help? Any tips are appreciated.

To clarify - the Assassins are in the 60 gallontank. The Mystery snails are in the 10g. There are pond snails in both.
 

Skye_marilyn

Member
fishiiis said:
Hi, I just joined and am relatively new at keeping a planted aquarium - 60 gallon. I decided to reinstate my old 10 gallon tank for transferring new fish. However, I developed a pond snail overpopulation which led to getting some Assassin snails, and then I was hooked. I added one gold and one black Mystery snail, and one Bristlenose Pleco, to the 10 gallon yesterday and am very pleased to find the info for their care in this forum. I am going to get the appropriate nutrients immediately.

As of today, the gold snail is still. She(?) was very active yesterday when I brought them home. I fed them flakes and an algae wafer today, which was enjoyed by the others.
Something must have happened? She may have fallen from the side of the tank because I did NOT know to leave enough room at the top? There is plenty of room now, and the other snail is fine.

I would like to make her well and comfortable and have a question about the care sheet posted by Pringlethesnail. How do you float a snail in a container in the tank? I have no idea what kind of container will work. Can someone be more descriptive? Will this help? Any tips are appreciated.
Use a Tupperware with a lip around the edge, poke holes in it with a heated fork and then place the Tupperware in the tank, the lip should trap air allowing it to float. Once you get the Tupperware situated place your snail(s) in the container. 2 mystery snails and a BN pleco in a 10 gallon is a pretty heavy stock I recommend transferring the BN pleco to another, larger tank going forward, keeping the ten gallon an all invert tank.
 
  • Thread Starter

Pringlethesnail

Member
I use a plastic Tupperware container half full with no lid, I turn the filter down so the container doesn’t get pushed around too much. Also for snails that are extremely sick and can’t move at all I use the plastic cups the Betta fish come in which is about half the size of my normal floating Tupperware. When I get a chance I’ll be sure to be more descriptive in the guide! I wanted to post pictures, but you’re only allowed to post like 8 photos per post or something. Regardless, I’ll get on it in the next few days so no one else is confused!
 

Thunder_o_b

Member
Wonderful thread. Thank you for taking the time to do this
 

Goldie&Yami

Member
Skye_marilyn said:
I received my clay neighbor’s herbivore/omnivore crumble and they love it!

Ingredients: whole manhaden fish meal, green pea flour, kelp, corn bran, human grade spirulina, fish oil, Astaxanthin, paprika, cayenne pepper

32.9% protein
22.7% starch
21.7% fiber
10.5% ash
5.5% fat
4.7% moisture
2% sugar

Just look at them fighting over the last pieces! No salt or copper either, 82% digestible and a long list of vitamins. I really like that it dehydrated not baked so it still has all the vitamins and it softens the moment you plop it in. Don’t put in too much, it triples in size once you drop it in and falls apart, only feed a pea sized amount at a time. I bought it at American Aquarium Products that’s the only source that carries it but I strongly recommend if you own snailies.
How has this been fairing with your snailios since you started it a little while back? I was thinking about getting some and trying it out. I need to get a food for my shell babies that it won't hurt if any food accidentally gets left behind for more than a few hrs. As there are many places for it to fall in my tank and I like to leave any leftover food til the end of the day because I have mysterys all ages and sizes that eat different amounts at all different times.
 

Skye_marilyn

Member
Goldie&Yami said:
How has this been fairing with your snailios since you started it a little while back? I was thinking about getting some and trying it out. I need to get a food for my shell babies that it won't hurt if any food accidentally gets left behind for more than a few hrs. As there are many places for it to fall in my tank and I like to leave any leftover food til the end of the day because I have mysterys all ages and sizes that eat different amounts at all different times.
They love it!! I don’t worry about old food laying around bc they will dig for hours to get the last bits. Best shell growth I’ve seen in ages since they were pretty banged up when I rescued them. Thicker, brighter, shiny shells. Fast growths and very active. They eat this food daily and don’t leave any behind. It’s technically a fish food so it is ok if your fish peck at it but I’d put them in a breeder box or something to feed them if your fish are hogging it.
 

Goldie&Yami

Member
Skye_marilyn said:
They love it!! I don’t worry about old food laying around bc they will dig for hours to get the last bits. Best shell growth I’ve seen in ages since they were pretty banged up when I rescued them. Thicker, brighter, shiny shells. Fast growths and very active. They eat this food daily and don’t leave any behind. It’s technically a fish food so it is ok if your fish peck at it but I’d put them in a breeder box or something to feed them if your fish are hogging it.
I've got some Corys. But they both have the same diet so I'm sure they will love it too. Which food are you using the herbivore or omnivore?
 

Skye_marilyn

Member
Goldie&Yami said:
I've got some Corys. But they both have the same diet so I'm sure they will love it too. Which food are you using the herbivore or omnivore?
I use the herbivore since this food has so much protein it is still and omnivore food.
 

Goldie&Yami

Member
Skye_marilyn said:
I use the herbivore since this food has so much protein it is still and omnivore food.
So you use both?
 

Skye_marilyn

Member
Goldie&Yami said:
So you use both?
The type I use is herbivore but since it’s so high in protein it is technically an omnivore diet, so people don’t get worried I make sure to let them know this is an omnivorous food disputes what the sticker says.
 

Goldie&Yami

Member
Skye_marilyn said:
The type I use is herbivore but since it’s so high in protein it is technically an omnivore diet, so people don’t get worried I make sure to let them know this is an omnivorous food disputes what the sticker says.
Thank you!!
 

Snailwhisperer

Member
I have a snail that is completely swollen. Does not move when I touch her. Does not smell bad. Tank makes look ok. water looks ok. In 55 gallon with 5 other mystery snails and some day old mystery babies + a few pond snails + some black worms that showed up in the gravel.
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20
pH 7.4

I fed them dried blood worms yesterday (after my cat opened the cabinet+ate through the box+ tore open the bag + spread them all over the sitting room!...again) Perhaps too many. They usually eat shrimp pellets and green beans.

I followed the instructions above and put her in a small tub of water, on her side, covered as much as possible with her syphon just reaching the surface.

Anything else I should do? There was mention of salt but that sounded deadly/dangerous?
 

JLeeM

Member
So..... I may be crazy, but I can no longer find where the original post talks about dosing calcium powder? So, how much do you dose per gallon, and do you need to start with less to safely adjust to different levels?
 

Goldie&Yami

Member
JLeeM said:
So..... I may be crazy, but I can no longer find where the original post talks about dosing calcium powder? So, how much do you dose per gallon, and do you need to start with less to safely adjust to different levels?
Its 1 tablespoon per 20 gallons Probably up to 2 tablespoons if its your first time dosing calcium. And then 1 tablespoon every water change. No it doesn't effect your water quality at all just makes things pretty cloudy for a little bit depending on how good your filter is. You will prolly have to stir the water up a few times and redistribute any undissolved residue. And if you have other fish besides the snails it may kinda surprise them for a little bit the first couple times you do it. But if you do it as often as recommended they should get used to it.
 

JLeeM

Member
So............ I decided to try this calcium powder trick for my blue crayfish...........



I read the warnings about cloudy water, but WOW!!!! How long does it take to clear up? I dosed 1 tablespoon since it's a 10 gallon.

EDIT: This is the next morning. It looks like snow flurries hit the tank. Lol. Not really sure how to get rid of that.

 

Goldie&Yami

Member
It all just really depends on your filter's capacity on how long it takes. For me it takes a few days for everything to FULLY dissolve. Those little flurries is just collected bunched up powder. Just kinda run your hands or a net through the water over any spots where the collections sit to redistribute it back into the water to dissolve. You may have to do that for a few days. But don't underestimate the longing benefits dosing calcium can have for your precious invert.
 

Dch48

Member
Pringlethesnail
I have posted in other threads about my larger than a quarter black Mystery getting more and more lethargic and finally dying. I know he was obviously older just by his size. He lived through the cycling of my tank and actually was more active then than he was after the cycle completed. I saw somewhere where it said that foods containing copper sulfate should be avoided. The API pellets I was using have copper sulfate and something called copper amino acid chelate in them. I speculated they may have played a part in my snail's passing. He always got pretty inactive after eating one of them. Maybe he was just an old snail and passed naturally. I have replaced him with a less than dime sized Magenta that is doing well so far but has only gotten pieces of Pleco wafer that contain no meat of any kind. Maybe you can tell me if the bottom feeder pellets are safe or if I should get other ones that don't have the copper compounds in them. Ingredients follow:

Whole Menhaden fish meal, whole wheat, shrimp meal, wheat middlings, squid meal, pea protein, brewer's dried yeast, fish oil, core molasses, dried seaweed meal, hydrated sodium calcium aluminosilicate, vitamins C and E, nicotinic acid (why), calcium pantothenate, iron amino acid chelate, pyridoxine hydrochloride, ferrous sulfate, zinc amino acid chelate, B supplement, manganese oxide, zinc oxide, manganese amino acid chelate, menadione sodium bisulfite complex, A ocelate, folic acid, B supplement, copper sulfate, copper amino acid chelate, calcium iodate, D supplement, garlic powder, choline chloride, L-lysine DL-methionine L-threonine BHA/Citric acid/proplyl gallate (as preservative)

Seems like a lot of metals to me. Even besides the copper. And why nicotine?
 

darlingfishie

Member
I just watched my snail Gladys use her siphon extended for the first time! But, she wasn't at the surface. She is hanging out eating zucchinI at the bottom of the tank. I assume that is... totally fine? She is super active and runs up and down the glass all day, so I know she's not having an issue getting to the top for air. Do they use their siphons for other purposes? Do they use them this way to breathe water as well?

I have been feeding her zucchinI rounds and algae tablets daily, alternating one each day. The main ingredient in the HikarI Algae Wafer is fish meal(33% crude protein), but there is copper sulfate right at the end of the list. Is that good enough for proper snail nutrition? Should I worry about the copper? Is there a preferred kind of sinking pellet among snail aficionados?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

BONUS! Here's a picture of Gladys adventuring on the driftwood in her tank:


Dch48 said:
Pringlethesnail
Maybe you can tell me if the bottom feeder pellets are safe or if I should get other ones that don't have the copper compounds in them. Ingredients follow:

Whole Menhaden fish meal, whole wheat, shrimp meal, wheat middlings, squid meal, pea protein, brewer's dried yeast, fish oil, core molasses, dried seaweed meal, hydrated sodium calcium aluminosilicate, vitamins C and E, nicotinic acid (why), calcium pantothenate, iron amino acid chelate, pyridoxine hydrochloride, ferrous sulfate, zinc amino acid chelate, B supplement, manganese oxide, zinc oxide, manganese amino acid chelate, menadione sodium bisulfite complex, A ocelate, folic acid, B supplement, copper sulfate, copper amino acid chelate, calcium iodate, D supplement, garlic powder, choline chloride, L-lysine DL-methionine L-threonine BHA/Citric acid/proplyl gallate (as preservative)

Seems like a lot of metals to me. Even besides the copper. And why nicotine?
Dch48 if my research is correct, Nicotinic Acid is not actually nicotine (confusingly) it's a compound also called Niacin, a type of B3 vitamin. Luckily, I can't find a reason why that would be dangerous for fish or snails.

As for the copper, I have been feeding my Mystery snail HikarI Wafers, which have copper sulfate at the end of the list of ingredients. She seems to love them, and I haven't had any sign of her feeling ill because of it. Other posters here in the forums seem to think that the trace amounts of copper in some fish foods aren't enough to harm snails. That being said, I have also asked this question in my most recent post/query here in Pringlethesnail 's Guide.
 

Bithimala

Member
darlingfishie It's completely normal. It's used for breathing, but sounds like she didn't want to leave the food if she didn't have to

Personally, I order the ones that don't have the trace amounts of copper, but there are plenty of people who have used the HikarI ones without any issue.
 

Dch48

Member
I switched to Omega One Shrimp pellets. They don't contain any suspect ingredients. The new snail (and the Betta who tries to chew pieces off) love them. So I'm now alternating. One day it's the Omega pellets, next day it's a piece of Tetra Pleco wafer (Betta tries to eat that too). Some days neither one. So far so good.

As I said, it may have just been that my first snail was old. He was significantly larger than a quarter in size. Better safe than sorry now though.

I also did see that Nicotinic Acid is the same thing as Niacin. Why don't they just list it as that?
 

Sunnynicci

Member
If a mystery snail is unresponsive for several days, not using foot at all or eating, only moving tentacles and siphoning occasionally... Would euthanasia be the humane answer. It's tearing me up; She's beyond recovery. Your guide does not mention a good method. (I called a vet but they would not answer without a visit, I have to work & they're on the other side of town.) I read that fish can be dosed with clove oil, I got some just-in-case. (I have no vodka, only clear tequila.)
 

Dch48

Member
I would hold off. She may be dying but since she is still breathing and moving tentacles, she might wake up. Have you tested your water for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and pH?
 

Sunnynicci

Member
Dch48 said:
I would hold off. She may be dying but since she is still breathing and moving tentacles, she might wake up. Have you tested your water for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and pH?
She's in shallow water in a 1G hospital tank on a towel with an airstone. I've been changing out her water twice daily with my tank water. 0-0-30 7.4 my usual parameters. I have some of her babies in my 10G with my 8 danio glofish.
 

Skye_marilyn

Member
Sunnynicci said:
She's in shallow water in a 1G hospital tank on a towel with an airstone. I've been changing out her water twice daily with my tank water. 0-0-30 7.4 my usual parameters. I have some of her babies in my 10G with my 8 danio glofish.
Some mystery snails can be sensitive to moderate to high nitrates and judging by your stocking level that may be your issue. If the snail is breathing and moving it’s tentacles I wouldn’t kill it. Another possibility is the snail may be going through a “hibernation” period of inactivity or could possibly just be getting older and slowing down. Keep your nitrates down, keep the water warm, and maybe give your snaily a few air baths.

Best snaily friends forever
 

Dch48

Member
30ppm is kind of high for Nitrates. Especially for snails
 
  • Thread Starter

Pringlethesnail

Member
HI guys,
I apologize for my absence I’ve been really busy and we’ve had a death in the family. Since there is a lot to talk about here this is going to be long with spacing so it is clear who I am speaking to (hopefully)

@Dch47
I do use foods that have copper sulfate in them as one of the last ingredients on the list and I am careful that all the food is eaten within 2 hours so that the copper doesn’t leech into the water. The copper amino acid chelate is copper in the shape of an amino acid I believe. However, zinc is also toxic to snails. Less than copper, but still really up there. Considering that food has two forms of copper and two forms of zinc. I would not use it. Depending on water changes, filter output, and time uneaten food sat in the tank that food could kill a snail, but it also could’ve been old age. My favorite snail food is HikarI bottom feeder wafers. They come in an orange bag and I get them from amazon, but they have it in most pet stores near me (NY). The snails LOVE it and it’s soft and easily digestible for them. That’s the best thing I’ve tried so far. Look for anything with meats and make sure if there is copper it is way at the bottom of the list.

darlingfishie
That’s so exciting! Sometimes snails (especially new snails) will try to reach the top of the tank from the bottom just because they are lazy! Eventually they realize they have to go to the top and don’t try anymore. They do not use their siphons for any other purposes and do not breathe water through them. She probably was like “I don’t feel like moving, let’s see if I can get some air from here”. Snails are silly creatures. It seems weird that your HikarI algae wafer has fish in it, mine only has algae and plants. You can read above what food I use, but 33% crude protein from fish meal is good and should be fine for them. I prefer to have them get their protein from more than one source in the food (for example the food has fish meal and also crab or shrimp or something). This is not a necessity though. Do not worry about the copper at the bottom of the list. I trust the HikarI products, they’re the best I’ve found. The only thing I would do is feed her the algae wafers (protein) 5-6 days per week and the zucchinI 1-2 days per week. I feed algae wafers on the weekends and bottom feeder wafers all the rest of the time so I can keep track. BONUS Gladys is adorable!! <3

@both of you- I also feed shrimp pellets randomly to change it up sometimes (I use aqueon brand because they mail me coupons). I don’t use this all the time because like I said above I try to get the most variety of meat sources. I also find that they’re harder for them to digest. Either way, I’m sure any shrimp pellet would be fine for them.

SunnyniccI
I am so sorry to hear about your snail. I do not think nitrates is an issue because mine come out of the tap at 30 (well water) and are always around 40-60. Is in a floating container with just enough water to cover her? Is the 1G heated? If she’s been unresponsive and in very shallow (clean, heated) water for more than 5 days I would consider euthanizing her. The way I do this is by putting the snail in a ziplock, double bagged (no water), putting the bag behind the back wheel of the car and reversing the car. Crushing them completely and as quickly as possible is the most humane way. Some people use a hammer, but I’m worried I’ll miss or chicken out and only injure the snail. I’m so sorry that you’re going through this. It makes me feel better to write on the ziplock bag “rip snail.. and something about the snail”. It sounds dumb but it makes me feel better. I hope your snail will recover though.
 

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