Mycobacterium? treat or turn into QT/ invert tank?

Littlefishyfish

I think I most likely have a mycobacterium. Pictures aren't helpful because the fish look relatively fine when they die and the parameters are fine. Nothing gets picked up by a camera. It's their behavior that changes. The 1st three pics are Vaccie from January 2020 when he was fine. The 2nd pic was Vaccie hours before death. He behaved like himself and I had no idea he'd soon die. The last three are Diamonda right before euthanization.

1) What do you think is wrong?
2) What should I do to save my current fish?
3) Should I buy Medicine Cabinet Duo flakes and neomycin sulfate powder?
4) What should I introduce to eat the algae on the glass?
5) Can I ever use this as a planted/shrimp/quarantine/hospital tank in the future after all clean up steps are taken? This would affect Question 3 because I don't think plants and shrimp would be compatible with medications. I'm keeping the corys and tetras in here permanently and not rehoming them, but the tank is pretty boring. I don't want another tank to face the same fate as this one so this is essentially a death watch tank with no new fish added.
6) Can I use the old substrate as a topper for my potted plants that have nothing to do with the aquarium?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have 4 emerald cory cats, 1 albino cory cat, and 4 black neon tetras in a 20 gallon high glass. The emerald cory cats and black neon tetras were original inhabitants, along with yellow neocaridina shrimp in 2016. Other fish have come and gone, and only 2 black neon tetras have died. The corys have never been affected by the disease.

There are ceramic and silicone ornaments that aren't very space occupying, but give hiding spaces. They are smooth and do not dissolve/degrade in water. No plants.

I use a Green Machine 9w UVC + water pump with the outlet above water for a mini waterfall/aeration, bubble wall, and an internal filter rated for 55 gallon. I did have a strong, intermittent water circulator that I took out a couple of weeks ago when I put in the Green Machine. The other fish needed a fishy treadmill, but these seem to be fine without it.

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 HLC Aquarium LED Light set to blue only to discourage algae growth. They turn off at night. There are potted houseplant lights near aquarium that are on 12 hours/day, but they don't shine directly into aquarium.

Since 2017, I have been dealing with fish:
gulping,
swimming diagonally,
stopping eating,
being unable to resist a current,
isolating/getting stuck behind object,
getting a white color on their eyes (rare),
having a stringy poop (rare),
turning pale as though they are slowly being frozen in the end stage,
then dying.

No bumps, bent spines, swellings, rubbing, twitching, or other common signs or symptoms. The fish look fine and die in a few days regardless of treatments. The pleco had a dark brown spot on his head and fin. I posted about it, and the forum said it was nothing to treat. I'd diagnose "rule out melanoma" if he were a human.

I, personally, had no signs of Mycobacteria infections or other human manifestations of skin infections. I wear gloves.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
The tank was broken down and moved to a different part of the city with more acidic water 7 months ago, but the gravel and filters were not replaced. No fish died with the move.

Fish that have died this way include: black neon tetras, blue dwarf gourami, blue-eyed lemon pleco, diamond tetras, Congo tetras. They died in succession and the tank was restocked...don't worry I didn't overstock my tank.

I do 60% water changes every 1-2 weeks (~9 gallons out of a 20-gallon tank...I figure it's actually an 18 gallon tank due to gravel).

Water temp is 78 degrees winter up to 82 degrees in the summer. Most fish are lost in the winter or when my temp is 78 degrees. It's very hard to cool the water in the summer. It's not in a window and it doesn't have hot lights. It's in the center of the building with no drafts or HVAC. Sometimes, I'll take off the lid partway and run a fan over it to cool it down in the summer. In the past, I've done 84 degrees F/ aquarium salt / frequent water changes cycles for weeks. but it doesn't seem to have any effect on fish loss. I'll lose a fish, then do the high temp/salt/treatment with medication. Everything will be fine. Then MONTHS later, another fish (or three) will die the same way.

Water readings have always been acidic and soft. I've never had a spike in a nitrogen compound. GH 4; NO3 0; NO2 0; Cl2 0; KH 3; pH 6.8. I use pH up 10 drops every 30 min to a total of 20-40 drops with every water change. I keep a boiled shell to try to slowly raise pH. The shell was added after the move 7 months ago because the water in the new place is a tad more acidic than I'd like.
------------------------------------------------------------------
I use a Python to suck gravel and move it around the tank. Now that I don't have a pleco, I also wash a couple ornaments each time (while leaving some unwashed to add to bacterial population. I clean a different wall each water change by wiping it down with a towel when the water is low. This prevents the loosened algae from going into the tank.

When the water is low, I add a teaspoon of dissolved aquarium salt, 5ml API Quick Start (bacteria, recommended dose 10ml/10gal), 5ml API StressZyme+ (bacteria plus scale coating, recommended dose 5ml/10 gal), and 1/4 recommended dose of Seachem Prime (water conditioner). I add in the rest of the Prime in intervals until I reach 100% of my dosage as I slowly fill the tank with my Python. I don't mess with the internal filter. It's never clogged. I've cleaned it a couple of times, but it didn't really need cleaning, so I stopped because I didn't want to risk losing beneficial bacteria.

Summation of 10 gallon = 60% of "20 gallon aquarium" water change each 1-2 weeks:
10-20 drops of pH up added until pH 6.8;
5 ml = 1/2 Quick Start recommended dose for 10 gallons;
5 ml = StressZyme+ recommended dose;
1 teaspoon = <1/4 aquarium salt recommended dose;
100% SeaChem Prime recommended dose.

Fish get sick when I stir up the gravel, use an Eheim vacation feeder (possible overfeeding), or if the tank is cold (I use a Python water changer and sometimes it flashes hot or cold especially in the winter because my water heater is trying to heat 33 degree F tap water). It started after the UV lamp in my internal filter died in 2017. I didn't think it was doing much, so I didn't replace it. The UV lamp is not fixable, so I got a 9W Green Machine UVC lamp a few weeks ago.
------------------------------------------------------------
I have done YEARS of rounds of heating and aquarium salt with medicine. Here are the chemicals I already own and have collected over the years. None of them seem to have an impact:
Aquarium salt

Imagitarium Parasite remedy
"Deionized Water D-Limonene Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) Tagetes Oil Black Pepper Oil Neem Oil EZ-Mulse Crovol PK-70 (Glycerex) Germaben II Polyvinylpyrrolidone
K29/32 Triethylene Glycol"

ParaGuard™
"The only fish and filter safe aldehyde based (10% by weight) parasite control product available. Unlike highly toxic and difficult to use formalin based medications, ParaGuard™ contains no formaldehyde or methanol and will not alter pH. ParaGuard™ employs a proprietary, synergistic blend of aldehydes, malachite green, and fish protective polymers that effectively and efficiently eradicates many ectoparasites on fish (e.g. ich, etc.) and external fungal/bacterial/viral lesions (e.g., fin rot)."

AmGuard
(Never used...just have for emergencies.)

Rid Ich Plus
"Formaldehyde 4.26% (11.52% formalin) and zinc-free chloride salt of malachite green."
--------------------------------------------------------
I am THINKING about buying:

Neomycin Sulfate Powder
"is a second generation antibiotic that targets pseudomonas, tuberculosis, and other gram negative bacteria in both freshwater and saltwater environments.
Treatment: Dose 1/4 teaspoon per 10 gallon daily with a 25% water change. Continue daily treatments for 10 days for most bcterial ailments. Do not prematurely stop as this is how medications lose effectiveness and leads to bacteria becoming immune to treatment.
Treating Tuberculosis: Dose daily for 30 days minimum when treating resistant forms of tuberculosis. Make sure to do a 25% water change before each dose and test parameters to ensure water quality is maintained during this long term treatment plan."

Medicine Cabinet Duo
"includes 3 of our double strength medicated flakes. These blends give you the ability to hit disease hard at the first symptom. Medications found in this cabinet include: Metronidazole Powder, Praziquantel Powder, Erythromycin and Doxycycline. "
-------------------------------------------------
Here are my foods:
Hikari mini algae wafers occasionally (my corys and pleco eat/ate flakes)

New Life Spectrum Optimum Flakes

Sera Discus Color Blue Color Granules (Just using them up, my bottom feeders eat flakes, but love these.)

----------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP ONE (Weeks 0-3 or 4)
Slowly remove the gravel (CaribSea Eco Complete Black Planted Aquarium Substrate) and start medicated treatment.

2. 10 gallon/60% Water changes as often as I can for a month. I'd love to do daily changes, but I have mobility limitations, so this is impossible.

3. Remove some gravel with each change.
**I want to use this as a soil topper in my plants. Is this a problem?**

3. Add 1/2 heaping tablespoon aquarium salt. Salt is dissolved after measuring and before adding to tank.

4. 100% Seachem Prime recommended dosage

5. 10-20 drops of pH up added until pH 6.8

6. 5 ml Quick Start (1/2 recommended dose for 10 gallons)

7. 5 ml StressZyme+ (recommended dose)

8. 5 ml ParaGuard/10 gallons new water= 100% recommended dosage

9. Neomycin sulfate powder

10. Medicine Cabinet Duo includes 3 of our double strength medicated flakes. (Metronidazole Powder, Praziquantel Powder, Erythromycin and Doxycycline.)

11. Temp 78 degrees F

STEP TWO (Week 4 or 5)
Add CaribSea Eco Complete Black Planted Aquarium Substrate and water that I have cycled for a month in my new 46 gallon bow front.

STEP THREE (Week 5 or 6)
1. Replace internal filter, bubble wall, tubing.
- Do you think my setup is fine? Do you recommend an HOB even though it's got a low stock?

2. Replace sponge on Green Machine UVC light + pump.

STEP FOUR (Week 6 or 7)
The tank is pretty boring with 4 teeny tetras and 5 corys. I wanted to give it a little razzmatazz.
1. Add shrimp and/or snails if you all recommend it.

2. Add low light plants if you all recommend it.


I plan on getting a new Python, gloves and net that are dedicated to the new tank. I'm sterilizing and reusing the powerhead and ornaments in my new 46 gallon bow front if you think that's a good idea.

I've kept fish for over 35 years and have never had a tank that was this finicky, so I'm giving up on it.
-----------------------------------------------------------

Better details can be found above
Tank
What is the water volume of the tank?
20 gal high
How long has the tank been running?
2016
Does it have a filter?
Internal rated for 55 gal; bubble wall; green machine
Does it have a heater? Y
What is the water temperature? 78F
What is the entire stocking of this tank? (Please list all fish and inverts.) 5 cory 4 black neon tetra

Maintenance
How often do you change the water? every 1-2 wk unless problems, then every other day or daily SMALL changes with replenishment of salt/medicine
How much of the water do you change? 50%
What do you use to treat your water? salt, prime, stresszyme+ quick start
Do you vacuum the substrate or just the water? substrate

*Parameters - Very Important
Did you cycle your tank before adding fish? y
What do you use to test the water? strips
What are your parameters? We need to know the exact numbers, not just “fine” or “safe”.
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
pH: 6.8

Feeding
How often do you feed your fish? 2x/d
How much do you feed your fish? small amt. none left after 2 min
What brand of food do you feed your fish? new life spectrum, hikari
Do you feed frozen or freeze-dried foods? n

Illness & Symptoms
How long have you had this fish? 2016
How long ago did you first notice these symptoms? 2017
In a few words, can you explain the symptoms? fish die rapidly. swimming diagonally. gasping for air. no deformities or growths.
Have you started any treatment for the illness? y
Was your fish physically ill or injured upon purchase? n
How has its behavior and appearance changed, if at all? currently all fish are healthy. it's the past fish that have died.
Feel free to answer each of my questions individually.

I do realize I wrote quite the tome.
 

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Madchild57

I think I most likely have a mycobacterium. Pictures aren't helpful because the fish look relatively fine when they die and the parameters are fine. Nothing gets picked up by a camera. It's their behavior that changes. The 1st three pics are Vaccie from January 2020 when he was fine. The 2nd pic was Vaccie hours before death. He behaved like himself and I had no idea he'd soon die. The last three are Diamonda right before euthanization.

1) What do you think is wrong?
2) What should I do to save my current fish?
3) Should I buy Medicine Cabinet Duo flakes and neomycin sulfate powder?
4) What should I introduce to eat the algae on the glass?
5) Can I ever use this as a planted/shrimp/quarantine/hospital tank in the future after all clean up steps are taken? This would affect Question 3 because I don't think plants and shrimp would be compatible with medications. I'm keeping the corys and tetras in here permanently and not rehoming them, but the tank is pretty boring. I don't want another tank to face the same fate as this one so this is essentially a death watch tank with no new fish added.
6) Can I use the old substrate as a topper for my potted plants that have nothing to do with the aquarium?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have 4 emerald cory cats, 1 albino cory cat, and 4 black neon tetras in a 20 gallon high glass. The emerald cory cats and black neon tetras were original inhabitants, along with yellow neocaridina shrimp in 2016. Other fish have come and gone, and only 2 black neon tetras have died. The corys have never been affected by the disease.

There are ceramic and silicone ornaments that aren't very space occupying, but give hiding spaces. They are smooth and do not dissolve/degrade in water. No plants.

I use a Green Machine 9w UVC + water pump with the outlet above water for a mini waterfall/aeration, bubble wall, and an internal filter rated for 55 gallon. I did have a strong, intermittent water circulator that I took out a couple of weeks ago when I put in the Green Machine. The other fish needed a fishy treadmill, but these seem to be fine without it.

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 HLC Aquarium LED Light set to blue only to discourage algae growth. They turn off at night. There are potted houseplant lights near aquarium that are on 12 hours/day, but they don't shine directly into aquarium.

Since 2017, I have been dealing with fish:
gulping,
swimming diagonally,
stopping eating,
being unable to resist a current,
isolating/getting stuck behind object,
getting a white color on their eyes (rare),
having a stringy poop (rare),
turning pale as though they are slowly being frozen in the end stage,
then dying.

No bumps, bent spines, swellings, rubbing, twitching, or other common signs or symptoms. The fish look fine and die in a few days regardless of treatments. The pleco had a dark brown spot on his head and fin. I posted about it, and the forum said it was nothing to treat. I'd diagnose "rule out melanoma" if he were a human.

I, personally, had no signs of Mycobacteria infections or other human manifestations of skin infections. I wear gloves.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
The tank was broken down and moved to a different part of the city with more acidic water 7 months ago, but the gravel and filters were not replaced. No fish died with the move.

Fish that have died this way include: black neon tetras, blue dwarf gourami, blue-eyed lemon pleco, diamond tetras, Congo tetras. They died in succession and the tank was restocked...don't worry I didn't overstock my tank.

I do 60% water changes every 1-2 weeks (~9 gallons out of a 20-gallon tank...I figure it's actually an 18 gallon tank due to gravel).

Water temp is 78 degrees winter up to 82 degrees in the summer. Most fish are lost in the winter or when my temp is 78 degrees. It's very hard to cool the water in the summer. It's not in a window and it doesn't have hot lights. It's in the center of the building with no drafts or HVAC. Sometimes, I'll take off the lid partway and run a fan over it to cool it down in the summer. In the past, I've done 84 degrees F/ aquarium salt / frequent water changes cycles for weeks. but it doesn't seem to have any effect on fish loss. I'll lose a fish, then do the high temp/salt/treatment with medication. Everything will be fine. Then MONTHS later, another fish (or three) will die the same way.

Water readings have always been acidic and soft. I've never had a spike in a nitrogen compound. GH 4; NO3 0; NO2 0; Cl2 0; KH 3; pH 6.8. I use pH up 10 drops every 30 min to a total of 20-40 drops with every water change. I keep a boiled shell to try to slowly raise pH. The shell was added after the move 7 months ago because the water in the new place is a tad more acidic than I'd like.
------------------------------------------------------------------
I use a Python to suck gravel and move it around the tank. Now that I don't have a pleco, I also wash a couple ornaments each time (while leaving some unwashed to add to bacterial population. I clean a different wall each water change by wiping it down with a towel when the water is low. This prevents the loosened algae from going into the tank.

When the water is low, I add a teaspoon of dissolved aquarium salt, 5ml API Quick Start (bacteria, recommended dose 10ml/10gal), 5ml API StressZyme+ (bacteria plus scale coating, recommended dose 5ml/10 gal), and 1/4 recommended dose of Seachem Prime (water conditioner). I add in the rest of the Prime in intervals until I reach 100% of my dosage as I slowly fill the tank with my Python. I don't mess with the internal filter. It's never clogged. I've cleaned it a couple of times, but it didn't really need cleaning, so I stopped because I didn't want to risk losing beneficial bacteria.

Summation of 10 gallon = 60% of "20 gallon aquarium" water change each 1-2 weeks:
10-20 drops of pH up added until pH 6.8;
5 ml = 1/2 Quick Start recommended dose for 10 gallons;
5 ml = StressZyme+ recommended dose;
1 teaspoon = <1/4 aquarium salt recommended dose;
100% SeaChem Prime recommended dose.

Fish get sick when I stir up the gravel, use an Eheim vacation feeder (possible overfeeding), or if the tank is cold (I use a Python water changer and sometimes it flashes hot or cold especially in the winter because my water heater is trying to heat 33 degree F tap water). It started after the UV lamp in my internal filter died in 2017. I didn't think it was doing much, so I didn't replace it. The UV lamp is not fixable, so I got a 9W Green Machine UVC lamp a few weeks ago.
------------------------------------------------------------
I have done YEARS of rounds of heating and aquarium salt with medicine. Here are the chemicals I already own and have collected over the years. None of them seem to have an impact:
Aquarium salt

Imagitarium Parasite remedy
"Deionized Water D-Limonene Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) Tagetes Oil Black Pepper Oil Neem Oil EZ-Mulse Crovol PK-70 (Glycerex) Germaben II Polyvinylpyrrolidone
K29/32 Triethylene Glycol"

ParaGuard™
"The only fish and filter safe aldehyde based (10% by weight) parasite control product available. Unlike highly toxic and difficult to use formalin based medications, ParaGuard™ contains no formaldehyde or methanol and will not alter pH. ParaGuard™ employs a proprietary, synergistic blend of aldehydes, malachite green, and fish protective polymers that effectively and efficiently eradicates many ectoparasites on fish (e.g. ich, etc.) and external fungal/bacterial/viral lesions (e.g., fin rot)."

AmGuard
(Never used...just have for emergencies.)

Rid Ich Plus
"Formaldehyde 4.26% (11.52% formalin) and zinc-free chloride salt of malachite green."
--------------------------------------------------------
I am THINKING about buying:

Neomycin Sulfate Powder
"is a second generation antibiotic that targets pseudomonas, tuberculosis, and other gram negative bacteria in both freshwater and saltwater environments.
Treatment: Dose 1/4 teaspoon per 10 gallon daily with a 25% water change. Continue daily treatments for 10 days for most bcterial ailments. Do not prematurely stop as this is how medications lose effectiveness and leads to bacteria becoming immune to treatment.
Treating Tuberculosis: Dose daily for 30 days minimum when treating resistant forms of tuberculosis. Make sure to do a 25% water change before each dose and test parameters to ensure water quality is maintained during this long term treatment plan."

Medicine Cabinet Duo
"includes 3 of our double strength medicated flakes. These blends give you the ability to hit disease hard at the first symptom. Medications found in this cabinet include: Metronidazole Powder, Praziquantel Powder, Erythromycin and Doxycycline. "
-------------------------------------------------
Here are my foods:
Hikari mini algae wafers occasionally (my corys and pleco eat/ate flakes)

New Life Spectrum Optimum Flakes

Sera Discus Color Blue Color Granules (Just using them up, my bottom feeders eat flakes, but love these.)

----------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP ONE (Weeks 0-3 or 4)
Slowly remove the gravel (CaribSea Eco Complete Black Planted Aquarium Substrate) and start medicated treatment.

2. 10 gallon/60% Water changes as often as I can for a month. I'd love to do daily changes, but I have mobility limitations, so this is impossible.

3. Remove some gravel with each change.
**I want to use this as a soil topper in my plants. Is this a problem?**

3. Add 1/2 heaping tablespoon aquarium salt. Salt is dissolved after measuring and before adding to tank.

4. 100% Seachem Prime recommended dosage

5. 10-20 drops of pH up added until pH 6.8

6. 5 ml Quick Start (1/2 recommended dose for 10 gallons)

7. 5 ml StressZyme+ (recommended dose)

8. 5 ml ParaGuard/10 gallons new water= 100% recommended dosage

9. Neomycin sulfate powder

10. Medicine Cabinet Duo includes 3 of our double strength medicated flakes. (Metronidazole Powder, Praziquantel Powder, Erythromycin and Doxycycline.)

11. Temp 78 degrees F

STEP TWO (Week 4 or 5)
Add CaribSea Eco Complete Black Planted Aquarium Substrate and water that I have cycled for a month in my new 46 gallon bow front.

STEP THREE (Week 5 or 6)
1. Replace internal filter, bubble wall, tubing.
- Do you think my setup is fine? Do you recommend an HOB even though it's got a low stock?

2. Replace sponge on Green Machine UVC light + pump.

STEP FOUR (Week 6 or 7)
The tank is pretty boring with 4 teeny tetras and 5 corys. I wanted to give it a little razzmatazz.
1. Add shrimp and/or snails if you all recommend it.

2. Add low light plants if you all recommend it.


I plan on getting a new Python, gloves and net that are dedicated to the new tank. I'm sterilizing and reusing the powerhead and ornaments in my new 46 gallon bow front if you think that's a good idea.

I've kept fish for over 35 years and have never had a tank that was this finicky, so I'm giving up on it.
-----------------------------------------------------------

Better details can be found above
Tank
What is the water volume of the tank?
20 gal high
How long has the tank been running?
2016
Does it have a filter?
Internal rated for 55 gal; bubble wall; green machine
Does it have a heater? Y
What is the water temperature? 78F
What is the entire stocking of this tank? (Please list all fish and inverts.) 5 cory 4 black neon tetra

Maintenance
How often do you change the water? every 1-2 wk unless problems, then every other day or daily SMALL changes with replenishment of salt/medicine
How much of the water do you change? 50%
What do you use to treat your water? salt, prime, stresszyme+ quick start
Do you vacuum the substrate or just the water? substrate

*Parameters - Very Important
Did you cycle your tank before adding fish? y
What do you use to test the water? strips
What are your parameters? We need to know the exact numbers, not just “fine” or “safe”.
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
pH: 6.8

Feeding
How often do you feed your fish? 2x/d
How much do you feed your fish? small amt. none left after 2 min
What brand of food do you feed your fish? new life spectrum, hikari
Do you feed frozen or freeze-dried foods? n

Illness & Symptoms
How long have you had this fish? 2016
How long ago did you first notice these symptoms? 2017
In a few words, can you explain the symptoms? fish die rapidly. swimming diagonally. gasping for air. no deformities or growths.
Have you started any treatment for the illness? y
Was your fish physically ill or injured upon purchase? n
How has its behavior and appearance changed, if at all? currently all fish are healthy. it's the past fish that have died.
Feel free to answer each of my questions individually.

I do realize I wrote quite the tome.
I once thought my fish had mycobacterium. I posted on the forum and was told it's pretty rare and it's most likely a more standard disease. No deformities and rapid death makes me think it is not mycobacterium, it's typically a slow killer.
 
Upvote 0

GlennO

I have had to deal with Myco but in my case there were more usual symptoms. Given the uncertainty in your case and the fact that it’s been going on for years you would benefit from seeing if you could arrange an autopsy for the next death. Actually often just a necropsy is required because if it’s Myco the granulomas are usually quite visible on the internal organs.
 
Upvote 0

Littlefishyfish

I have had to deal with Myco but in my case there were more usual symptoms. Given the uncertainty in your case and the fact that it’s been going on for years you would benefit from seeing if you could arrange an autopsy for the next death. Actually often just a necropsy is required because if it’s Myco the granulomas are usually quite visible on the internal organs.

Any thoughts on these questions?

1) What do you think is wrong?
If Mycobacterium is ruled out, what do think it might be?

2) What should I do to save my current fish?
3) Should I buy Medicine Cabinet Duo flakes and neomycin sulfate powder?
I'm guessing not because you don't think that it is mycobacterium.

4) What should I introduce to eat the algae on the glass?
5) Can I ever use this as a planted/shrimp/quarantine/hospital tank in the future after all clean up steps are taken? This would affect Question 3 because I don't think plants and shrimp would be compatible with medications. I'm keeping the corys and tetras in here permanently and not rehoming them, but the tank is pretty boring. I don't want another tank to face the same fate as this one so this is essentially a death watch tank with no new fish added.
6) Can I use the old substrate as a topper for my potted plants that have nothing to do with the aquarium?
I have had to deal with Myco but in my case there were more usual symptoms. Given the uncertainty in your case and the fact that it’s been going on for years you would benefit from seeing if you could arrange an autopsy for the next death. Actually often just a necropsy is required because if it’s Myco the granulomas are usually quite visible on the internal organs.

Any thoughts on these questions?

1) What do you think is wrong?
If Mycobacterium is ruled out, what do think it might be? I'm hesitant to do any sort of autopsy during a pandemic. My mom has already got COVID twice and she has followed all of the rules including wearing a mask and maintaining social distance. If she can get it from her apartment building hallway with a mask on (according to the state contact tracers), I can get it from visiting a vet.

2) What should I do to save my current fish?
3) Should I buy Medicine Cabinet Duo flakes and neomycin sulfate powder?
I'm guessing not because you don't think that it is mycobacterium.

4) What should I introduce to eat the algae on the glass?
5) Can I ever use this as a planted/shrimp/quarantine/hospital tank in the future after all clean up steps are taken? This would affect Question 3 because I don't think plants and shrimp would be compatible with medications. I'm keeping the corys and tetras in here permanently and not rehoming them, but the tank is pretty boring. I don't want another tank to face the same fate as this one so this is essentially a death watch tank with no new fish added.
6) Can I use the old substrate as a topper for my potted plants that have nothing to do with the aquarium?
 
Upvote 0

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