My UGF is kinda gross.. need advice for sick fish

OK, so I am definitely realizing just how much I don't know for my poor betta. My tank BettaFlo Soothe has this undergravel filteration system with a gravel plate, that makes it really hard to clean under the plate. My fish has been sick and not eating and I have been treating for fin rot and parasites that I think he came with, but today (day 3 of treatment and no carbon filter catridge) his fins had a lot of blood lines. I tested water last night with strips and it was fine. Then at the suggestion on another thread if strips or kits are better, I tested my treated tap water during his 20% water change this morning against the tank and the pH on the kits was really high- usually is 6 or 6.5 but reading 7.2. I had been giving him frozen blood worms and most are being sucked up since he isn't eating but wondering if the ones I missed are getting trapped under the gravel plate and throwing off the pH?

So I did a 50% water change, and took apart the filter middle piece (not sure if impeller tube or what is called), and the water below there was a bit nasty. I tried to siphon out some of the underwater stuff. It had some black pieces of debris floating (maybe from previous carbon?) and it stirred up some real s*it in my tank when I turned the filter back on. I put the carbon back in to for a bit and held off the treatment to try to clean the impurities, but it is making me wonder if this filter is causing more harm than good since I can't get under there to vacuum, have no idea what is under there, but also don't want to remove all the good bacteria - just don't know what all that was.. The gunk stuff I can see in the tube, which I am guessing it the good bacteria.

He is already sick, so I am trying my damndest not to kill him but things keep getting harder to figure out. He was getting better for 2 days now it has reverse that seems to coincide with this pH reading.. All other levels are fine, which is weird. Ammonia is zero, nitrites, nitrates are zero and KH has been at 80 and GH 120 forever.

Thoughts on:
1. UGF filter and switching? I already had purchased an internal Aqueon quietFlo 10 but was holding off until he was healthy but if this is making him sick??
2. Can removing carbon for too long affect my pH? I put in a bio sponge and ceramic media in the place but maybe not as good?
3. More red blood on fin tips.. should I keep treating or is the pH issue causing this?
4. Do I need to add anything else in there? I have don't have any pH stuff currently, but do have aquarium salt(added in water change), prime, water conditioner(already added for water change) and medication (bettafix, paraguard and furan-2)

Thanks! I really need all the help I can get. He is a fighter!!

 

I would switch out your UGF. If you move the media to the new filter it won't ruin your cycle. There's a reason UGFs aren't used anymore, they're just not that good.

I wouldn't think that carbon would affect your pH. However, you should probably have some sort of chemical filtration. Purigen is good as it shouldn't remove your medications. It lasts a long time and is rechargeable.

I would keep treating for the fin rot as 7.2 is actually very close to ideal pH for bettas.

You don't need to add prime and water conditioner, as prime will do the whole job on its own. I have heard that bettafix can actually do more harm then good. I've never used it myself but I wouldn't. I've heard that indian almond leaves can be good, but I'm not very sure. I don't know about paraguard or furan-2, so I can't comment on that. Honestly water quality is the most important thing.

Also, do you have a liquid test kit? I couldn't really tell from the post.

 

I would switch out your UGF. If you move the media to the new filter it won't ruin your cycle. There's a reason UGFs aren't used anymore, they're just not that good.

I wouldn't think that carbon would affect your pH. However, you should probably have some sort of chemical filtration. Purigen is good as it shouldn't remove your medications. It lasts a long time and is rechargeable.

I would keep treating for the fin rot as 7.2 is actually very close to ideal pH for bettas.

You don't need to add prime and water conditioner, as prime will do the whole job on its own. I have heard that bettafix can actually do more harm then good. I've never used it myself but I wouldn't. I've heard that indian almond leaves can be good, but I'm not very sure. I don't know about paraguard or furan-2, so I can't comment on that. Honestly water quality is the most important thing.

Also, do you have a liquid test kit? I couldn't really tell from the post.

Thanks so much for the fast reply. I have both API test strips and API test liquid test kit. Nothing else is off and I will retest later today.

So the hard thing with this filter is it only takes one carbon catridge- no other media as the treatment says to remove chemical filters. I do not have the catridge out right now for the fin rot treatment I just gave. I stuffed a fluval bio sponge and some ceramics in there for now to help collect bacteria since no other chemical filtration(been in there a couple days now). I can use that sponge and ceramics in the new filter bio media but the filter itself I think has most of the good bacteria in the tube. I just don't want to kill all the good stuff - that is my fear. Will using the same gravel contain enough to avoid this? You mention Purigen, but that is chemical right, so wont' that filter out the meds?

I am avoiding the bettafix for now, mixed reviews and keeping with the paraguard for now. PraziPro is what I am waiting on for the internal stuff & should be here today.

Thanks!

 

I used an UGF many, many years ago, but powered it with a powerhead. Never again. You're always going to have a build-up of mulm under your filter. IMHO, you're best bet is to dump the UGF, give your substrate a good, deep vacuuming, and go with a sponge or HOB filter. You may want to consider a larger tank too. PetCo is still having their $1/gallon sale. A 10 gallon tank for $10...not bad

 

Thanks so much for the fast reply. I have both API test strips and API test liquid test kit. Nothing else is off and I will retest later today.

So the hard thing with this filter is it only takes one carbon catridge- no other media as the treatment says to remove chemical filters. I do not have the catridge out right now for the fin rot treatment I just gave. I stuffed a fluval bio sponge and some ceramics in there for now to help collect bacteria since no other chemical filtration(been in there a couple days now). I can use that sponge and ceramics in the new filter bio media but the filter itself I think has most of the good bacteria in the tube. I just don't want to kill all the good stuff - that is my fear. Will using the same gravel contain enough to avoid this? You mention Purigen, but that is chemical right, so won't' that filter out the meds?

I am avoiding the bettafix for now, mixed reviews and keeping with the paraguard for now. PraziPro is what I am waiting on for the internal stuff & should be here today.

Thanks!

Hm, I don't know about the whole tube situation. If it's just a smooth tube I wouldn't think that it would really grow anything, and it could just be general gunk. However, you could take a q-tip or something, swab a good amount out of the tube, and then smear it on the sponge. You could do this a couple of times. Then move the sponge and ceramics to the HOB. Now that I'm looking into it further purigen may remove meds so hold off on that for now.

It's weird that you have 0 nitrates, are you shaking the 2nd bottle and the tube as well? Also, what size is your tank?

 

Hm, I don't know about the whole tube situation. If it's just a smooth tube I wouldn't think that it would really grow anything, and it could just be general gunk. However, you could take a q-tip or something, swab a good amount out of the tube, and then smear it on the sponge. You could do this a couple of times. Then move the sponge and ceramics to the HOB. Now that I'm looking into it further purigen may remove meds so hold off on that for now.

It's weird that you have 0 nitrates, are you shaking the 2nd bottle and the tube as well? Also, what size is your tank?

OK thanks! How long should I wait to start the other meds though? Would you recommend changing the filter now or wait until I treat him for parasites. He is not eating at all, so I worry he won't make it much longer (been 1 week and 3 days since eaten - that I have seen anyways). The new filter is actually an internal one, not HOB. That was my fault, I was not explicit on that part. I can try the swan idea if that doesn't change views being inerrnal not HOB.

I have no nitrates because I am re-cycling due to a prior removal of his plastic decor and a larger water change in conjunction with. I did follow the liquid kit directions for all the ones I tested today (pH, nitrates, ammonia, nitrites), pretty sure on the nitrates it said to shake the 2nd bottle vigorously for 30 seconds and then the tube for a minute.. going off memory so maybe I am wrong..

Tank is 3.5g but with that huge center UGF piece, it really only holds 2.5 gallons which is initially why I bought the other filter to give him more room to swim. I am just getting worried on the order of events given his poor condition. He seems very stressed today with bloody, deterioriating fins and not swimming like he was yesterday. He was improving yesterday to prior days and today it took a dive. Options are: 1. keep filter and treat him asap for parasites.. get him to eat first, then change filter. or 2. Change filter & get it ready and treat him in a QT tank (which all I have is a gallon pitcher I use for changes) with Prazipro then tranfer back. I will do whatever you think is best - In the back of my head, hopeful he has been eating off the ground and maybe today he just got stressed when I changed the water. He did try to jump out which was new..

 

HOB vs internal should be the same in terms of media, so all that is the same. I would put tank water in the gallon pitcher, put your fish in there, and then switch the filters with a real good gravel vaccing. Then move your fish back and do the treatments. I would try to get a larger tank as previously suggested, but if you can't right away, then switch the filter and everything anyways, and look into a larger tank for the near future.

 

HOB vs internal should be the same in terms of media, so all that is the same. I would put tank water in the gallon pitcher, put your fish in there, and then switch the filters with a real good gravel vaccing. Then move your fish back and do the treatments. I would try to get a larger tank as previously suggested, but if you can't right away, then switch the filter and everything anyways, and look into a larger tank for the near future.

OK thanks! I will get on it tonight- appreciate the advice!

 

OK thanks! I will get on it tonight- appreciate the advice!

No problem! Always glad to help!

 

OK thanks! I will get on it tonight- appreciate the advice!

Sorry, one more question.. should I vacuum up all the dirt under the gravel or try to reserve anything? I am not sure the rules on leaving some in there or if over vacuuming is ok? I have heard conflicting info on threads. TIA!

 

Sorry, one more question.. should I vacuum up all the dirt under the gravel or try to reserve anything? I am not sure the rules on leaving some in there or if over vacuuming is ok? I have heard conflicting info on threads. TIA!

Take out as much as you can! Most, if not all of it is just gunk so just take it out.

 

I have no nitrates because I am re-cycling due to a prior removal of his plastic decor and a larger water change in conjunction with.

I don't mean to be preachy or condescending, but with this ^^^ and some other things you've said, I'm getting the feeling you don't understand the filter and bacteria relationship. Just to clear the air, the bacteria live in the filter itself, on and in your filter media. Almost none live in the water itself, so doing a 99% water change isn't going to effect your bacteria. Very little live on the surfaces of your tank or on your decorations, so you can remove all of your decorations and substrate and the amount of bacteria you remove wouldn't be measurable. What you're seeing in the tubes (see my photos at the end of this post) are most likely algae and mulm, not bacterial colonies.

If/when you remove your UGF, you may induce a complete cycle crash, and you will need to test your water daily until you see zero ammonia and nitrites and start seeing 5 ppm or more nitrates. You may also have to do daily water changes to keep the ammonia and nitrites at safe levels, along with dosing with Prime which will detoxify small amounts of ammonia and nitrites from between 24 and 48 hours.

If you already have an established filter that's been running with the UFG, you should be safe, but still need to monitor the water parameters until they are showing zero ammonia and nitrites in addition to visible (from testing) nitrates.

Like I said, I'm not trying to be harsh, but hoping you understand where your bacteria colonize.

Yes, it's been a while, but my sponge filter will be cleaned next WC, lol.

 

I don't mean to be preachy or condescending, but with this ^^^ and some other things you've said, I'm getting the feeling you don't understand the filter and bacteria relationship. Just to clear the air, the bacteria live in the filter itself, on and in your filter media. Almost none live in the water itself, so doing a 99% water change isn't going to effect your bacteria. Very little live on the surfaces of your tank or on your decorations, so you can remove all of your decorations and substrate and the amount of bacteria you remove wouldn't be measurable. What you're seeing in the tubes (see my photos at the end of this post) are most likely algae and mulm, not bacterial colonies.

If/when you remove your UGF, you may induce a complete cycle crash, and you will need to test your water daily until you see zero ammonia and nitrites and start seeing 5 ppm or more nitrates. You may also have to do daily water changes to keep the ammonia and nitrites at safe levels, along with dosing with Prime which will detoxify small amounts of ammonia and nitrites from between 24 and 48 hours.

If you already have an established filter that's been running with the UFG, you should be safe, but still need to monitor the water parameters until they are showing zero ammonia and nitrites in addition to visible (from testing) nitrates.

Like I said, I'm not trying to be harsh, but hoping you understand where your bacteria colonize.

Yes, it's been a while, but my sponge filter will be cleaned next WC, lol.

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Thank you! I totally appreciate any schooling I am just going off what other people have posted or read, which who knows what parts are right. One post had said not to 'over-vacuum or you could kill all the good bacteria in your established tank' and another not to change out the gravel without taking a cup of the old and mixing with new- so I guess I was misinformed but good to know a complete water change won't hurt it or decor change.

I did remove the UGF last night and there was no media to move over(just a carbon catridge that was removed for the fin rot treatment and I was told the good bacteria would be gone if dry, so I tossed it).

I will keep monitoring the water for ammonia/NIs, daily (doing that already). Talk to me more about Prime though.. I have it but have been hesitant to use it because I never have. I just use TopFin water conditioner and sometimes aquarium salt with water changes. If I see an ammonia spike, can I add this to the existing water? Or should I be adding proactively to the water changes instead of the TopFin one?

Last question, this dude is a fighter, each morning I expect he didn't make it because he isn't eating(1 week and 4 days now), and I finally got the internal parasite treatment in the mail that I was waiting on. Based on pics and prior symptoms, everyone said likely internal parasites. However, I have not seen any stringy white poops on him in a day - granted he is not eating still. Should I hold off on the Prazipro then? Give him a rest until I see more of that. I mean he doesn't look good, still dull grey and fins not bloody today but jagged. He will jet around still once in a while. Would you still give it to be safe while he has some fight in him? He is not hiding now, staying near the top of tank - which is still not his normal self. Thanks for your help!

 

Thank you! I totally appreciate any schooling I am just going off what other people have posted or read, which who knows what parts are right. One post had said not to 'over-vacuum or you could kill all the good bacteria in your established tank' and another not to change out the gravel without taking a cup of the old and mixing with new- so I guess I was misinformed but good to know a complete water change won't hurt it or decor change.

I did remove the UGF last night and there was no media to move over(just a carbon catridge that was removed for the fin rot treatment and I was told the good bacteria would be gone if dry, so I tossed it).

I will keep monitoring the water for ammonia/NIs, daily (doing that already). Talk to me more about Prime though.. I have it but have been hesitant to use it because I never have. I just use TopFin water conditioner and sometimes aquarium salt with water changes. If I see an ammonia spike, can I add this to the existing water? Or should I be adding proactively to the water changes instead of the TopFin one?

Last question, this dude is a fighter, each morning I expect he didn't make it because he isn't eating(1 week and 4 days now), and I finally got the internal parasite treatment in the mail that I was waiting on. Based on pics and prior symptoms, everyone said likely internal parasites. However, I have not seen any stringy white poops on him in a day - granted he is not eating still. Should I hold off on the Prazipro then? Give him a rest until I see more of that. I mean he doesn't look good, still dull grey and fins not bloody today but jagged. He will jet around still once in a while. Would you still give it to be safe while he has some fight in him? He is not hiding now, staying near the top of tank - which is still not his normal self. Thanks for your help!

Prime is a favorite among a lot of people. It's a dechlorinator as well as detoxifying low levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. It also uses only one capful (5mL) for every 50 gallons, so it lasts a long time.

I've never used Prazipro, but personally, I would go ahead with treatment. The only thing is to do a large water change before starting (which you've already done). Hopefully soon after that he'll be back to his usual self! And do remember that fin regrowth takes a long time, so just be patient with that.

 

Prime is a favorite among a lot of people. It's a dechlorinator as well as detoxifying low levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. It also uses only one capful (5mL) for every 50 gallons, so it lasts a long time.

I've never used Prazipro, but personally, I would go ahead with treatment. The only thing is to do a large water change before starting (which you've already done). Hopefully soon after that he'll be back to his usual self! And do remember that fin regrowth takes a long time, so just be patient with that.

Thank you!

 

I can't answer your questions about medications. I've been lucky, and never had to treat a sick fish, so know nothing about them.

Danny002 said just about all there is to say about Prime. The vast majority of people recommend it over all the other water conditioners. Based on those recommendations I switched from the TopFin brand to Prime last July, two weeks into cycling my 20 gallon tank, and don't regret it at all. When I was fish-in cycling my tank, I was doing water changes every day or every other day. My .5 liter bottle is still over half full and I dose for the full 20 gallons, not the amount of water I'm adding and I do 75% water changes every 7 to 10 days, depending on my nitrate levels.

I wasn't familiar with your tank so I looked it up on Petsmart's page, and what I'm saying next are my opinions, and not meant to be critical of you or your tank.

That's a really small tank. Small tanks are extremely hard to maintain safe water parameters due to their small water volume. There's very little room for error. That tank in particular may be a little hard to find a filter that can be easily added to it mainly due to it's shape, but there are small internal filters that will work. Another option is a small sponge filter.

What filter are you using now that you've taken the UGF out? Regardless of what filter you have or plan on getting, I would avoid using the cartridges. You don't need the carbon unless you're trying to get rid of meds you have used, and every time you replace the cartridge, you're throwing away most of your BB. They're really a waste of money too. Most filters can be customized with foam, sponges, floss and a media bag filled with just about any bio-media.

Based on what I know, you're unfortunately stuck doing a fish-in cycle with a weakened Betta. It's not going to be easy on either of you. Stay on top of your water changes, and test your water every day. Hopefully, you'll both pull through

Parting note...I just looked and Petco is still having their $1/gallon sale on their Aqueon 10-29 gallon tanks. It may be an alternative unless your really in love with the BettaFlo Soothe.

Good luck, and best wishes

 

This is all great info! I hadn't heard anyone say not to use carbon. I have been wanting to upgrade him to a 5 gallon. I found a Fluval 5 EVO V gallon I have had my eye on. I am just concerned with the filter system being limited if it is too strong. What I like about the BetteFlo is also what I hated - the nice flow filter. It took the whole space up. It was a really nice filter flow rate for a betta though. Without it, I have put in an Aqueon Quietflo internal 10. I baffled with a small piece of sponge because in the small tank, it was a little strong still. I took out its carbon and put a fluval biosponge in there as well as some ceramic media. I would love to know if you think that arrangment is okay for longer term? I kinda stocked up on lots of types of media: ceramic rings, carbon bags, two kinds of sponges, coase bio sponge and a foam sponge. I just don't have any filter floss yet.

I hear you on the smaller tank needing more changes, I will stay on it for sure. I do have a fear/concern though now that I gave him the Prazipro. It lasts for 5-7 days, since I will likely have to adjust him water in the next day or so if Ammonia or NIs creep up, that is removing the meds right? Given the in-fish cycling, I guess I have to change the water and add prime if that happens, I just worry about the efficacy of the meds then. Would it be ok to try to adjust ammonia instead by using an ammonia filtrater like Purigen someone before mentioned or another one if the levels are low. That way I am not removing the meds or water? Is that too risky?

Thanks again for your continued help!

 

This is all geat info! I hadn't heard anyone say not to use carbon. I have been wanting to upgrade him to a 5 gallon. I found a Fluval 5 EVO V gallon I have had my eye on. I am just concerned with the filter system being limited if it is too strong. What I like about the BetteFlo is also what I hated - the nice flow filter. It took the whole space up. It was a really nice filter flow rate for a betta though. Without it, I have put in an Aqueon Quietflo internal 10. I baffled with a small piece of sponge because in the small tank, it was a little strong still. I took out its carbon and put a fluval biosponge in there as well as some ceramic media. I would love to know if you think that arrangment is okay for longer term? I kinda stocked up on lots of types of media: ceramic rings, carbon bags, two kinds of sponges, coase bio sponge and a foam sponge. I just don't have any filter floss yet.

I hear you on the smaller tank needing more changes, I will stay on it for sure. I do have a fear/concern though now that I gave him the Prazipro. It lasts for 5-7 days, since I will likely have to adjust him water in the next day or so if Ammonia or NIs creep up, that is removing the meds right? Given the in-fish cycling, I guess I have to change the water and add prime if that happens, I just worry about the efficacy of the meds then. Would it be ok to try to adjust ammonia instead by using an ammonia filtrater like Purigen someone before mentioned or another one if the levels are low. That way I am not removing the meds or water? Is that too risky?

Thanks again for your continued help!

From all my reading, the only time you need to use carbon is to remove something, like meds, tannins, or foul odors.

Isn't that Fluval 5 EVO a marine (saltwater) setup? I googled it and it seems to be. The lighting alone (11,000K) might fry anything you want to keep in it, lol.

The Aqueon internal filter was one of the ones I was thinking about. I think the way you describe it, it will work great. Just curious, but have you thought about a sponge filter. For a small tank like yours, you wouldn't have to worry about too much flow, and has the added benefit of allowing you to add some bio-media too.

I've never been a fan of products that claim to remove ammonia, nitrates, etc. Do they work? Not in my opinion. My HOB filter came with Matrix. It claims to reduce nitrates. I've been using it for several months, and have never seen any reduction in nitrates. I've added sweet potatoes to my tank, and once their roots take and they start leaf formation, I saw a big drop in my nitrates.

For the efficacy of the meds, as long as your combined ammonia and nitrites are under 1 ppm, you can dose with Prime, and delay doing water changes for a few days. Your tests will still show ammonia and nitrites, but the Prime will detoxify them from 24 to 48 hours, but if they go over 1 ppm combined, I would do a WC, and redose the meds. Like I said earlier, I've never had to use meds, so don't believe anything I say . I may be wrong. Won't be the first time, lol.

 

Oh shoot, you are right. I wrote the wrong one- they look the same. It is the Fluval Spec, not EVO. I still displike the lights on it too. I want softer lights than LED. The tank I have now has them but they are a bit bright. I got photo filters paper in blue to tone them down.

I looked at sponge filters like that but to be honest, I just wasn't sure the best air pump or any of the components to go with it, so I went the route of all in one. Also, it was more cost effective for the fitler I got... but then I bought all that other media **** LOL :/ That said, always open to suggestions for the complete set up, filter, tank and all.

I typically don't get nitrites(not yet anyways). If I am looking at just ammonia levels and nitrites are zero, should I change the water at .25 or .5. You mentioned the combined ppm, so want to be sure I have it right. I won't redose the meds, I will just make due with what he has unless he again starts to show signs of internal parasites. Hoping by removing food, there won't be a need from ammonia

Thanks! PS you are now my senseI LOL

 

I typically don't get nitrites(not yet anyways). If I am looking at just ammonia levels and nitrites are zero, should I change the water at .25 or .5. You mentioned the combined ppm, so want to be sure I have it right. I won't redose the meds, I will just make due with what he has unless he again starts to show signs of internal parasites. Hoping by removing food, there won't be a need from ammonia

Thanks! PS you are now my senseI LOL

At this stage of the game, you're basically starting a new cycle, using a mix of new and old "stuff". I wouldn't expect to see nitrites for at least another week, maybe two. Once you see the nitrites starting to go down, then you should see nitrates. Keep dosing with Prime!

When your combined ammonia and nitrites, ammonia + nitrites >= 1 ppm, do a water change of 75%, or two WCs of 50%. Every percent of water you remove and replace will reduce ammonia, nitrites, etc. by the same percentage. This is only true for water removed, not for topping off due to evaporation. You want both to be at or as close to zero as you can get. When you start seeing nitrates, they aren't as harmful as ammonia and nitrites, you want to keep them down with WCs too . Five to ten ppm is ok, but if they get over 20, which is still tolerable, I would do a WC to bring them back down.

Now, talking about being open to suggestions...I have no complaints against what you have now, nor do I have any against the Fluval Spec. To each his/her own That being said, I personally think they're over priced and not as versatile as going component, and building your own.

Side Note: I've never bought a computer with the exception of laptops. I have always built my own from scratch, and can build a more robust, powerful system for less than I can buy one pre-built. Nuf said

Now, where was I? Oh...why not save a bunch of money, or get more for the same money, and go for a 10 or 20 gallon that you put together? You could build a really impressive 10 gallon for the same $100 you'll pay for the Fluval, and for an additional $50 or less, you could get a good 20 gallon setup. For another $100, give or take, you can get programmable LED lighting that will allow you to set any color tone you want. I know, space may be an issue, and I haven't addressed that. The real benefits of a larger DIY setup, are IMHO, easier to maintain, more bang for the buck, and room for more denizens of the deep

Back to the sponge filter, and what's needed. I have the . They are rated from 10 gallon to 60g, but any air pump will do. Mine is extremely quiet unless something gets pushed up against it, then the vibrations get noisy and let me know something needs to be moved. The only other things you need aside from the sponge filter itself and an air pump, are an air stone (optional) and tubing. Some filters come with the tubing and or stone, but if they don't, they are really cheap.

And no!!!!! I'm no Guru . I've had a lot of problems with some of the issues address here, and have been given a lot of excellent advice, and some not so good, and have done a lot of research to get what limited knowledge I have. I follow a lot of threads without ever commenting, just so I can learn more. I offer advice when I think it can help, but in most cases, I'm merely parroting what I've read or been told by people I trust. I find I learn more every day, just by luring. One thing I've learned, is I will (probably) never own a Betta . They're beautiful, and there are a lot of success stories out there, but there are far too many "What's wrong with my Betta" posts for me.

 

At this stage of the game, you're basically starting a new cycle, using a mix of new and old "stuff". I wouldn't expect to see nitrites for at least another week, maybe two. Once you see the nitrites starting to go down, then you should see nitrates. Keep dosing with Prime!

When your combined ammonia and nitrites, ammonia + nitrites >= 1 ppm, do a water change of 75%, or two WCs of 50%. Every percent of water you remove and replace will reduce ammonia, nitrites, etc. by the same percentage. This is only true for water removed, not for topping off due to evaporation. You want both to be at or as close to zero as you can get. When you start seeing nitrates, they aren't as harmful as ammonia and nitrites, you want to keep them down with WCs too . Five to ten ppm is ok, but if they get over 20, which is still tolerable, I would do a WC to bring them back down.

Now, talking about being open to suggestions...I have no complaints against what you have now, nor do I have any against the Fluval Spec. To each his/her own That being said, I personally think they're over priced and not as versatile as going component, and building your own.

Side Note: I've never bought a computer with the exception of laptops. I have always built my own from scratch, and can build a more robust, powerful system for less than I can buy one pre-built. Nuf said

Now, where was I? Oh...why not save a bunch of money, or get more for the same money, and go for a 10 or 20 gallon that you put together? You could build a really impressive 10 gallon for the same $100 you'll pay for the Fluval, and for an additional $50 or less, you could get a good 20 gallon setup. For another $100, give or take, you can get programmable LED lighting that will allow you to set any color tone you want. I know, space may be an issue, and I haven't addressed that. The real benefits of a larger DIY setup, are IMHO, easier to maintain, more bang for the buck, and room for more denizens of the deep

Back to the sponge filter, and what's needed. I have the . They are rated from 10 gallon to 60g, but any air pump will do. Mine is extremely quiet unless something gets pushed up against it, then the vibrations get noisy and let me know something needs to be moved. The only other things you need aside from the sponge filter itself and an air pump, are an air stone (optional) and tubing. Some filters come with the tubing and or stone, but if they don't, they are really cheap.

And no!!!!! I'm no Guru . I've had a lot of problems with some of the issues address here, and have been given a lot of excellent advice, and some not so good, and have done a lot of research to get what limited knowledge I have. I follow a lot of threads without ever commenting, just so I can learn more. I offer advice when I think it can help, but in most cases, I'm merely parroting what I've read or been told by people I trust. I find I learn more every day, just by luring. One thing I've learned, is I will (probably) never own a Betta . They're beautiful, and there are a lot of success stories out there, but there are far too many "What's wrong with my Betta" posts for me.

Hahaha ,touche on owning a betta. The funny thing is that I probably did best with our last betta when I knew nothing. I overthink and over research everything now and apparently not that well :/

I applaud your ability to built, I just don't think that can be me - not yet anyways. I mean, I was scared to get a spong filter because I didn't want to put the air stone in backwards (I had no idea it was optional!). I know if wrong, you just flip it but trying to raise this fish from the dead as been taxing enough. I will say, that I do aspire to be you (not with computers) but in time I think I will feel confident enough to go bigger. For now, I think 5 gallon is my baby stepping and space is still a concern.

Thank you for the nitrogen cycling help, I am monitoring and will use. I have read similar guidelines too. Meanwhile, I am now seeing and hearing Prazipro is not the best for internal parasites while it was suggested to me and I have seen YT on using it for just that. Yea that is a lot of info out there #fakenews

I will follow more threads too to observe. thanks!

 

I know your main concern now, is keeping your Betta alive and healthy, and getting your cycle (re)established. Just keep up the testing and water changes, and it should all fall into place. I really wish I could help with your Betta, but I know very little about them, and even less about illnesses and treatments .

As for branching out, I've always said the best way to get started is to decide what you want, then go for it. You'll find answers here. Everyone has an opinion, and there's no one way to do it, so you'll also get a lot of ideas on how to proceed. If you're like most of us, you probably have a lot of extra time on your hand, and research if free.

I spend a lot of my time at aqadvisor playing "what if" and I also play around in a spreadsheet making a shopping list of what I can get and for how much, building "my dream tank" and stocking it

 

I know your main concern now, is keeping your Betta alive and healthy, and getting your cycle (re)established. Just keep up the testing and water changes, and it should all fall into place. I really wish I could help with your Betta, but I know very little about them, and even less about illnesses and treatments .

As for branching out, I've always said the best way to get started is to decide what you want, then go for it. You'll find answers here. Everyone has an opinion, and there's no one way to do it, so you'll also get a lot of ideas on how to proceed. If you're like most of us, you probably have a lot of extra time on your hand, and research if free.

I spend a lot of my time at aqadvisor playing "what if" and I also play around in a spreadsheet making a shopping list of what I can get and for how much, building "my dream tank" and stocking it

Haha, yea these days there is more time to make projects. Don't give me ideas LOL

Update: Today he is still hanging out at the top and barely swimming. No ammonia, no nitrites and no eating :/ I tried a plethora of food to see if it enticed him and nothing. Probably going to spot clean any remaining food later today. Even without the high levels, do you think I should do a 50% change anyways? the water without the carbon is just not as crstyal clear, or maybe it is the meds. A little less clear- bothers me but he may not care. I dunno, he just won't eat. Running out of ideas for him. His fins and face looks better today, some good color. Should I just leave well enough alone?

 

At this point, I think you need to start a "What's wrong with my Betta" thread, lol. Link to this thread, or make sure the new thread points out that you're working with a basically uncycled tank, since your removed the UFG and are starting with a new filter. Hopefully, someone with more experience with sick fish and Bettas will be able to help. I'll follow the new thread too, just so I can hopefully learn something new.

Pulling from my limited experience, one thing you may want to try is keeping your lights turned off. That seems to be a common thing when dealing with sick fish in general.

It will also reduce having to answer the same questions over and over if you fill out this form: Fish Emergency Template | Freshwater Fish Disease 376562

Good Luck

 

At this point, I think you need to start a "What's wrong with my Betta" thread, lol. Link to this thread, or make sure the new thread points out that you're working with a basically uncycled tank, since your removed the UFG and are starting with a new filter. Hopefully, someone with more experience with sick fish and Bettas will be able to help. I'll follow the new thread too, just so I can hopefully learn something new.

Pulling from my limited experience, one thing you may want to try is keeping your lights turned off. That seems to be a common thing when dealing with sick fish in general.

It will also reduce having to answer the same questions over and over if you fill out this form: Fish Emergency Template | Freshwater Fish Disease 376562

Good Luck

Thanks! I have had LEDs off this whole time and just the kitchen lights on for some daylight. I will turn off as there is natural sun too.