My Plants Are Not Doing So Well What Am I Doing Wrong?

MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • #1
Hello, my hornwort I bought about 1-2 weeks ago grows every day, but the leaves just turn yellow/brown. I’m not sure why. Also new leaves grow on my other plants, but usually they come shriveled, I’m not sure on why. Also my moneywort/creeping Jenny grows nicely but from the bottom where I have planted in the substrate starts to melt and turn yellow, causing them to float. I have sand mixed with eco plant substrate. I have 10 root tabs planted underneath the substrate near every plant. I dose flourish twice weekly. Btw it’s a 75 gallon tank. I have a 110W light and it seems to be doing fine. I also have 3 diy carbon systems with 2Liter bottles. That diffuse co2 nicely during the day time, where I turn them off at night. I give them 12-15 hours of light a day. I don’t know why I can’t get this right. I’m struggling to keep my plants alive and I don’t like to see dying or decaying plants in the tank, it just doesn’t look nice. All of the plants are fairly new and I am hoping to find out what I’m doing wrong so I can fix it and have a healthy planted aquarium. Thanks I hope someone can help me.
 

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Crimson_687
  • #2
Maybe it’s something in your water source?
 

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MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
I mean I had salt in there for about a week because I noticed some ich on one of the fishes, I just did a 75% water change and added fresh clean water. My water quality is very very good!
 
Nick72
  • #4
Take a PH reading in the morning just before you start injecting CO2.

Take another PH reading 3 hours after you start injecting C02.

If your PH has not dropped by at least 0.8 then you have insufficient CO2.

AI'm for a 1 point PH drop.
 
MissNoodle
  • #5
Hornwort is salt tolerant but it will still melt with salt, as will many other plants. It could have been the addition of the salt. Do a large water change each day to reduce the salt levels, even though theyre minute they could still be too high to a plant.

Also, hornwort tends to shed and melt a ton when new to an aquarium. Itll toughen up pretty good later on in.

Your moneywort... maybe let it float until it develops some roots, then replant it. So it prevents it from melting? Moneywort is one ive struggled with, but ive noticed improvements since ive gotten root tabs. But I notice when its not happy it does melt off at the stem.
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
Hornwort is salt tolerant but it will still melt with salt, as will many other plants. It could have been the addition of the salt. Do a large water change each day to reduce the salt levels, even though theyre minute they could still be too high to a plant.

Also, hornwort tends to shed and melt a ton when new to an aquarium. Itll toughen up pretty good later on in.

Your moneywort... maybe let it float until it develops some roots, then replant it. So it prevents it from melting? Moneywort is one ive struggled with, but ive noticed improvements since ive gotten root tabs. But I notice when its not happy it does melt off at the stem.


Image1568812305.517132.jpg the horn wort is still growing vertically daily, but you see the browning, will it eventually turn green or just fall off??

Image1568812326.503427.jpg the moneywort has roots growing all along the leaves, roots on the top and on the bottom, should I cut it in half and replant the top part with the roots coming out of it? How can I make it a happy plant?

Image1568812342.138891.jpg this plant however grows big and tall, but the leaves just come out shriveled, and I don’t know what I’m lacking in the tank to fix this.

Image1568812358.808882.jpg this Brazilian sword has been this size for over 5 months of having it , it doesn’t big leaves, I see just small leaves on the bottom of it and the top leaves just have green algae and shrivel.

Image1568812378.561375.jpg and I don’t even know what this plant is, it just doesn’t have new growth it’s looked like that for a while now lol, what am I doing wrong???
 

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Nick72
  • #7
......what am I doing wrong???

80% sure you have insufficient CO2.

Did you check your PH drop?
 
toeknee
  • #8
Every time I have fiddled with DIY CO2 it causes more problems than good. It's very difficult to maintain steady and consistent CO2 levels. Fluctuating CO2 can cause all sorts of problems from black beard algae to stunted plants. A low-medium light tank with no CO2 and consistent dosages of Seachem Excel will have better results IMO. If you're going to go the CO2 route, go all the way and get a full pressurized system.

Also Seachem Flourish doesn't contain all the nutrients plants need. You need both Micro and Macro nutrients. Flourish only contains Micro elements so your plants may be suffering from nutrient deficiency as well. A good quality all in one fertilizer like Thrive has all the nutrients your plants need.

Lastly it could be a lighting issue as well. Wattage doesn't necessarily correlate to being a good light.
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
80% sure you have insufficient CO2.

Did you check your PH drop?


Image1568828518.379688.jpg
The one to the left is right before I turned on the CO2, and the one to the right is the one I just checked now
 
angelcraze
  • #10
I don't do co2, so can't comment there, but I did notice some things maybe.

Is it diatoms (brown algae) in the bottom leaves of the hornwort? It would make it look brown and eventually melt the leaves.

Creeping jenny looks like it is transitioning to your tank. Me, I would let it grow in your tank and replant the tops.

If the 3rd plant is ammania gracilis, it's a pretty demanding plant, so might do better in a more established tank with more constant parameters.

The Brazilian sword is actually a peace lily and not a fully aquatic plant. It can grow with roots in the water and leaves above (emersed), but it won't thrive fully submerged or last very long.

I'm not sure what the last plant is, but I'm thinking it might also be a terrestrial or bog plant.
 

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MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #11
I don't do co2, so can't comment there, but I did notice some things maybe.

Is it diatoms (brown algae) in the bottom leaves of the hornwort? It would make it look brown and eventually melt the leaves.

Creeping jenny looks like it is transitioning to your tank. Me, I would let it grow in your tank and replant the tops.

If the 3rd plant is ammania gracilis, it's a pretty demanding plant, so might do better in a more established tank with more constant parameters.

The Brazilian sword is actually a peace lily and not a fully aquatic plant. It can grow with roots in the water and leaves above (emersed), but it won't thrive fully submerged or last very long.

I'm not sure what the last plant is, but I'm thinking it might also be a terrestrial or bog plant.

Wow so it turns out all my plants suck, and theyre just gonna die out. My fish store is just a bunch of total crooks huh... who on gods green earth sells land plants for aquariums what do they think I’m running a pond? What plants do u recommend I get
I already have java fern and java moss they’re are truly the most boring plants I have I don’t enjoy them at all, what else is there to get it’s getting kinda boring just seeing green plants, are there other varieties?
 
86 ssinit
  • #12
I’m with angel and the last plant looks like a pothos not a water plant. But grows the same as the Brazilian sword. Amazon,fire or melon swords will grow and most crypts will too. I also think your lighting may be lacking. Is it an led? I too do not use co2. I use the liquid apI co2 booster. Works well for me.
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #13
I’m with angel and the last plant looks like a pothos not a water plant. But grows the same as the Brazilian sword. Amazon,fire or melon swords will grow and most crypts will too. I also think your lighting may be lacking. Is it an led? I too do not use co2. I use the liquid apI co2 booster. Works well for me.

They’re 110W long fluorescent bulbs, two of them actually. I don’t have that many plants in the tank, like 12 plants. I don’t see how the lighting is poor. Should I throw out these pothos plants in the trash or put them in my garden outside lol?? And how is that liquid co2 booster working? Is it really as good as it sounds? I’m thinking about tossing out the DIY it stinks like a winery in the tank under my closet lol.
What plants other than swords should I get any ideas? Any exotic plants I can order online that look cool and grow well in my low/medium lighting
 
MissNoodle
  • #14
In medium light water wisteria is pretty good. Sturdy, pretty plant. Does good with root tabs. Looks pretty too.

A suggestion for hornwort... don't plant it. Let it float, or anchor it to the wall of the tank with a suction cup (those ones that hold lights work well because they clamp on the stem). Hornwort doesn't do as good planted. Does *best* floated, but does good anchored free of substrate
 

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86 ssinit
  • #15
eBay has a 24/7 vivagrow led light for around $50 shipped. Great light for the price. The co2 booster works. I also use flourish comprehensive iron and potassium. My plants grow fine. No co2.

Crypts grow good and the aponogetons grow all right and look great.
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #16
In medium light water wisteria is pretty good. Sturdy, pretty plant. Does good with root tabs. Looks pretty too.

A suggestion for hornwort... don't plant it. Let it float, or anchor it to the wall of the tank with a suction cup (those ones that hold lights work well because they clamp on the stem). Hornwort doesn't do as good planted. Does *best* floated, but does good anchored free of substrate

Wow I didn’t know that, thank you I’ll try to find a way I can keep it out of the substrate, and I’ll definitely be getting a couple water wisterias to add to the tank, they do look very pretty. Thanks for your help
 
Vishaquatics
  • #17
Every time I have fiddled with DIY CO2 it causes more problems than good. It's very difficult to maintain steady and consistent CO2 levels. Fluctuating CO2 can cause all sorts of problems from black beard algae to stunted plants. A low-medium light tank with no CO2 and consistent dosages of Seachem Excel will have better results IMO. If you're going to go the CO2 route, go all the way and get a full pressurized system.

Also Seachem Flourish doesn't contain all the nutrients plants need. You need both Micro and Macro nutrients. Flourish only contains Micro elements so your plants may be suffering from nutrient deficiency as well. A good quality all in one fertilizer like Thrive has all the nutrients your plants need.

Lastly it could be a lighting issue as well. Wattage doesn't necessarily correlate to being a good light.

This all the way!

DIY CO2 with yeast and sugar is a waste. Baking soda and citric acid might be worth a try but it needs to be regulated like the wuyouchy CO2 generators on amazon.

Seachem Flourish is a horrible fertilizer. Thrive is really the way to go for beginner plants.
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #18
This all the way!

DIY CO2 with yeast and sugar is a waste. Baking soda and citric acid might be worth a try but it needs to be regulated like the wuyouchy CO2 generators on amazon.

Seachem Flourish is a horrible fertilizer. Thrive is really the way to go for beginner plants.

Well dang I spent the money I was supposed to use on citric acid and thrive fertilizer on yeast and flourish.. ill wait until schools over to make some money and buy those. Honestly spending on the aquarium costs just as much as maintaining my car... Fish hobby is probably the most expensive hobby to maintain.
 

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86 ssinit
  • #19
Just costs in the beginning. Once you get things right the cost goes down. Flourish works for me. I found thrive boosted the nitrates in my low tech tanks (all of them) and diatoms (brown algae) soon developed. Disappeared when I went back to flourish. Go figure.
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #20
Just costs in the beginning. Once you get things right the cost goes down. Flourish works for me. I found thrive boosted the nitrates in my low tech tanks (all of them) and diatoms (brown algae) soon developed. Disappeared when I went back to flourish. Go figure.

Hahaha ayeeee!! So flourish is the way to go, and I think I can ditch the stinking diy system for the API liquid CO2. So all I gotta spend now is the 6 bucks for that and I’m in the clear. I had this tank running with two nice filters, doing 50% weekly water changes since last March, about 7-8 months now. So I’m going to keep doing what I’m doing and take your advice, dance on the streets in NYC to raise some money to buy a few water wisterias and I’ll be set with the plants!
 
Nick72
  • #21
From the photo it doesn't look like you're getting a 1 point drop in CO2.

An insufficient and/or unstable amount of C02 can do more harm than good.

It will often promote excess algae growth.
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #22
From the photo it doesn't look like you're getting a 1 point drop in CO2.

An insufficient and/or unstable amount of C02 can do more harm than good.

It will often promote excess algae growth.

I’m going to throw these diy systems in the trash and start using apI liquid CO2. I don’t want a crazy setup, (nor can I spend the $$$) I really don’t want to see a pressure gauge, or a gas tank or anything that would make my tank look like a meth lab anymore. I just want my light, my heater, my filters, and bubbler. Thanks for your information friend!
 

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86 ssinit
  • #23
Lol if your in ny I’m on the island and have westeria to give away.
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #24
Lol if your in ny I’m on the island and have westeria to give away.

Wow that’s very nice of you! Thanks a lot for your help
 
toeknee
  • #25
Hahaha ayeeee!! So flourish is the way to go, and I think I can ditch the stinking diy system for the API liquid CO2. So all I gotta spend now is the 6 bucks for that and I’m in the clear. I had this tank running with two nice filters, doing 50% weekly water changes since last March, about 7-8 months now. So I’m going to keep doing what I’m doing and take your advice, dance on the streets in NYC to raise some money to buy a few water wisterias and I’ll be set with the plants!

I wouldn't say Flourish is the way to go. It is literally maybe 10% if the of the nutrients your plants need if that. The nutrients that it does contain are so incredibly diluted that you are basically paying for an expensive bottle of water with tiny amounts of fertilizer in it. Thrive will up your Nitrates because that's what nutrients/fertilizers are....they are Nitrates. Diatoms are caused by silicates in new tanks, not necessarily Nitrates. Nitrates up to 40 ppm are very safe, some debate that up to 80 ppm is just fine. If you want to provide your plants with the food they need ditch the Flourish and pick up some Thrive. Get the "Thrive C" version....specifically designed for low tech tanks with no CO2. Otherwise if you're just dosing Flourish your plants are likely starving.

I haven't personally used API liquid CO2. The usual go to for a liquid carbon product is Seachem Excel. They cost the same I believe and Excel has the added unintentional benefit of preventing and even killing algae. If you have the option to get Excel instead of API CO2 Booster myself and most other hobbyist would suggest that. Good luck!
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #26
I wouldn't say Flourish is the way to go. It is literally maybe 10% if the of the nutrients your plants need if that. The nutrients that it does contain are so incredibly diluted that you are basically paying for an expensive bottle of water with tiny amounts of fertilizer in it. Thrive will up your Nitrates because that's what nutrients/fertilizers are....they are Nitrates. Diatoms are caused by silicates in new tanks, not necessarily Nitrates. Nitrates up to 40 ppm are very safe, some debate that up to 80 ppm is just fine. If you want to provide your plants with the food they need ditch the Flourish and pick up some Thrive. Get the "Thrive C" version....specifically designed for low tech tanks with no CO2. Otherwise if you're just dosing Flourish your plants are likely starving.

I haven't personally used API liquid CO2. The usual go to for a liquid carbon product is Seachem Excel. They cost the same I believe and Excel has the added unintentional benefit of preventing and even killing algae. If you have the option to get Excel instead of API CO2 Booster myself and most other hobbyist would suggest that. Good luck!

Thanks for the idea, so I’ll sum it up it’s okay to get thrive C for fully my established tank, and then get the sea chem excel carbon. And then my plants shall survive?
 

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angelcraze
  • #27
Wow so it turns out all my plants suck, and theyre just gonna die out. My fish store is just a bunch of total crooks huh... who on gods green earth sells land plants for aquariums what do they think I’m running a pond? What plants do u recommend I get
I already have java fern and java moss they’re are truly the most boring plants I have I don’t enjoy them at all, what else is there to get it’s getting kinda boring just seeing green plants, are there other varieties?
Oh no, I didn't mean to sound so blunt/dissapointing. If the last pic is pothos, they will grow with the roots (or feet) in the water and leaves above. They help to filter the water just as well (if not better) than submerged plants. Same with the peace lily, leaves above water, base dipping in water. Here's a pic of my little emersed garden out of my 120g

20190625_221740.jpg

I've been looking for ammania gracilis for a while now. It's a beautiful plant! I think you have a better chance at growing it with co2 then I do tbh. It's just a more challenging plant.

As for the creeping Jenny, I always seem to have to let plants grow in my own tank before I judge them. Replant the nice tops and the bases should sprout new shoots and the tops continue to grow upward.

I do have some easier colour plant suggestions!
Crypt wendtiI red- Kinda slow growing, but gets a nice purply red with the right light. It is a rooting plant in the substate and reproduces via runners. So you'll see baby crypt plants popping up next to the mother plant. My 90g is probably 50% covered in crypt wendtiI green now.

And red tiger lotus. There's an easy plant to obtain red. It also likes nutrients at the roots, so a root tab would help now and then.

A carpeting type plant that grows fine pinkish and green grass like leaves is helanthium tenellus. Here's a pic to show what I mean

IMG_6829_crop.jpg

For stem plants, ludwigia sp.minI is an easier one, reneikiI sp.minI is a bit harder but might work. Then there's ludwigia repens which grows red leaf undersides and hygro rosenervig has white leaf veins and the leaves turn pink the closer it climbs toward the light. Rotala rotundifolia is another beautiful stem which starts out green, turns yellow, then pink as it grows taller toward the light.

That's what pops into my head for easier colour plants, but keep in mind you can create interest with leaf texture variety even though they are green. There are also different shades of green that are fun to play with.

I also second to make sure you have enough light for the tank. I just got the Finnex 24/7 HLC and I love it. The Viva Grow wasn't available for me, but it sounds like it's the exact same fixture as the Finnex 24/7 KLC for a lot less.
 
Dennis57
  • #28
Lol if your in ny I’m on the island and have westeria to give away.
Where on Long Island? Can I buy some from you and have it shipped to me on LI??
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #29
Oh no, I didn't mean to sound so blunt/dissapointing. If the last pic is pothos, they will grow with the roots (or feet) in the water and leaves above. They help to filter the water just as well (if not better) than submerged plants. Same with the peace lily, leaves above water, base dipping in water. Here's a pic of my little emersed garden out of my 120g
View attachment 613415

I've been looking for ammania gracilis for a while now. It's a beautiful plant! I think you have a better chance at growing it with co2 then I do tbh. It's just a more challenging plant.

As for the creeping Jenny, I always seem to have to let plants grow in my own tank before I judge them. Replant the nice tops and the bases should sprout new shoots and the tops continue to grow upward.

I do have some easier colour plant suggestions!
Crypt wendtiI red- Kinda slow growing, but gets a nice purply red with the right light. It is a rooting plant in the substate and reproduces via runners. So you'll see baby crypt plants popping up next to the mother plant. My 90g is probably 50% covered in crypt wendtiI green now.

And red tiger lotus. There's an easy plant to obtain red. It also likes nutrients at the roots, so a root tab would help now and then.

A carpeting type plant that grows fine pinkish and green grass like leaves is helanthium tenellus. Here's a pic to show what I mean
View attachment 613553

For stem plants, ludwigia sp.minI is an easier one, reneikiI sp.minI is a bit harder but might work. Then there's ludwigia repens which grows red leaf undersides and hygro rosenervig has white leaf veins and the leaves turn pink the closer it climbs toward the light. Rotala rotundifolia is another beautiful stem which starts out green, turns yellow, then pink as it grows taller toward the light.

That's what pops into my head for easier colour plants, but keep in mind you can create interest with leaf texture variety even though they are green. There are also different shades of green that are fun to play with.

I also second to make sure you have enough light for the tank. I just got the Finnex 24/7 HLC and I love it. The Viva Grow wasn't available for me, but it sounds like it's the exact same fixture as the Finnex 24/7 KLC for a lot less.

You are a hero, I give your post 10 out of 5 star! I started to notice after it turned off the diy CO2 the Ammania Gracilis started to un-shrivel. The leaves at the top started pointing upwards as they do in the pictures in google! I am gonna gently cut the moneywort in half and replant the other part and let it stay there until it roots and grows. all those plants you told me about are so beautiful I am going to try to find them online. Thank you for your help and the plants on top of your tank look so beautiful! That’s a genius idea, makes it look 100x more natural. Thanks for your post that was a great guide. Everyone should be coming to this post if they need help with plants now because of you! I am following you now!

Lol if your in ny I’m on the island and have westeria to give away.

As long as you don’t live on montauk I shall come for a visit! I dislike montauk because of the montauk monster that came on shore like 12 years ago, that places creeps me out now lol. But if you are willing to sell me wisteria for the DL id love to take a drive to LN, I’m in Hudson county NJ it’s fairly close, btw I’m not from jersey city I’m out of Secaucus! Thank you so much my friend
 
86 ssinit
  • #30
No problem. I’m in Massapequa. If easier I can ship it to you. Shipping is about $5. Probably cheaper than gas and should get there early next week. Pm me an address.
 

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angelcraze
  • #31
That is a huge compliment, tx, I'm smiling I like stem plants because you can snip and replant, they usually just keep growing. One of my favorite stem plants is stargrass, it works amazingly well as a carpeting plant with star like shaped leaves. It's bright green, but the leaf texture is so cool. Here's a pic of stargrass and what it can be

20190920_112938.jpg
20160826_234528.png

So all the stems I mentioned like rotala, ludwigia, hygro, reneikI can be snipped and replanted at any leaf node.

I love plants, tbh, I was hesitant to try them at first, but leaned you can have plants growing pretty easily if you pick the right ones and know how to work with them. I know I leaned pretty quickly and was surprised how simple it was. But what I like the best is how much my fish seem to appreciate them. I think I inherited a bit of the love from my mother who always had a crazy green thumb
 
!poogs!
  • #32
Hello, my hornwort I bought about 1-2 weeks ago grows every day, but the leaves just turn yellow/brown. I’m not sure why. Also new leaves grow on my other plants, but usually they come shriveled, I’m not sure on why. Also my moneywort/creeping Jenny grows nicely but from the bottom where I have planted in the substrate starts to melt and turn yellow, causing them to float. I have sand mixed with eco plant substrate. I have 10 root tabs planted underneath the substrate near every plant. I dose flourish twice weekly. Btw it’s a 75 gallon tank. I have a 110W light and it seems to be doing fine. I also have 3 diy carbon systems with 2Liter bottles. That diffuse co2 nicely during the day time, where I turn them off at night. I give them 12-15 hours of light a day. I don’t know why I can’t get this right. I’m struggling to keep my plants alive and I don’t like to see dying or decaying plants in the tank, it just doesn’t look nice. All of the plants are fairly new and I am hoping to find out what I’m doing wrong so I can fix it and have a healthy planted aquarium. Thanks I hope someone can help me.

I see you posted this a few days ago. Not sure if you got the answers you are looking for, but here I my suggestions.

* too much fertilizer. 10 root tabs plus flourish twice a week. It’s overkill., literally. This will result in high phosphate levels and nitrate levels in your tank. This will cause plants to go brown. Hornwort is a water column feeder. It is not benefitting from root tabs. I used to root tab my Amazon swords and they didn’t grow as well and would get brown leaves. If the substrate is fine enough they benefit just the same as any other plant from Seachem flourish and Seachem advance to benefit rapid root grown and root strength. I’d fish out as many root tabs as possible and do a large water change to reduce phosphate.

* hornwort should not be planted. It will go brown near the bottom and shed everywhere else. If you want the planted effect of hornwort, no problem. Use a piece of biomax, run some fishing line through it and make a loop. Run about an inch of hornwort through the loop and bury the biomax in the substrate but not the hornwort. This gives the illusion it is planted when in fact it is free floating. It will be very green and grow 6 to 12 inches in a week.

* this will upset my fellow plant keepers, but your plants are low tech. Scrap to CO2 system and use Seachem excel. To much headache for what you are trying to accomplish. Add a side mounted sponge filter and run an air pump. It will benefit oxygenation at night and provide extra filtration and beneficial bacteria as a plus.

* don’t know about your lighting. Can’t comment. Seems a little too long for time on. Just know it’s 110 watts. More info would help.


IMG_3776.JPG

Attached a hornwort pic. Gets trimmed back about 24 inches every two weeks. This is in a 90 gallon no CO2


IMG_3518.JPG

This is from my 125 gallon no c02. No root tabs anymore.
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #33
I see you posted this a few days ago. Not sure if you got the answers you are looking for, but here I my suggestions.

* too much fertilizer. 10 root tabs plus flourish twice a week. It’s overkill., literally. This will result in high phosphate levels and nitrate levels in your tank. This will cause plants to go brown. Hornwort is a water column feeder. It is not benefitting from root tabs. I used to root tab my Amazon swords and they didn’t grow as well and would get brown leaves. If the substrate is fine enough they benefit just the same as any other plant from Seachem flourish and Seachem advance to benefit rapid root grown and root strength. I’d fish out as many root tabs as possible and do a large water change to reduce phosphate.

* hornwort should not be planted. It will go brown near the bottom ams she’s everywhere else. If you want the planted effect of hornwort, no problem. Use a piece of biomax, run some fishing line through it and make a loop. Run about an inch of hornwort through the loop and bury he biomax in the substrate but not the hornwort. His gives the illusion it is planted when in fact it is free floating. It will be very green and grow 6 to 12 inches in a week.

* this will upset my fellow plant keepers, but your plants are low tech. Scrap to CO2 system and use Seachem excel. To much headache for what you are trying to accomplish. Add a side mounted sponge filter and run an air pump. It will benefit oxygenation at night and provide extra filtration and beneficial bacteria as a plus.

* don’t know about your lighting. Can’t comment. Seems a little too long for time on. Just know it’s 110 watts. More info would help.

View attachment 621710

Attached a hornwort pic. Gets trimmed back about 24 inches every two weeks. This is in a 90 gallon no CO2

View attachment 621711

This is from my 125 gallon no c02. No root tabs anymore.

Thank you for your information, I’m going to take the hornwort out of the substrate, I’m going to take out any pieces of root tabs I find, I scrapped the DIY co2 systems and got seachem carbon. I had just found out that it’s not a hornwort plant it’s a Green Cabomba! Should I still keep it afloat over the substrate??. It’s much fluffier than hornwort. And the moneywort? Idk y the bottom stems keeps dying away?!. I’m trying to get the moneywort to grow big an beautiful.

Are there any aquarium plants that flower underwater? I want to find a nice flowering plant that looks beautiful so I can take good care of it
 
!poogs!
  • #34
Cabomba and moneywort. You got a couple of interesting ones there.

Cabomba should be planted in the substrate. It should have little fine white roots. It’s hard to grow and melts easily in comparison to hornwort. Personally I would scrap the cobamba and switch to hornwort. Hornwort is just more resilient and less fragile. And to get the bushy effect of cobamba you can anchor hornwort closer together. Ive done this to conceal heaters and filter intakes.

Moneywort is like bocopa. I don’t grow it anymore because even my non plant eating fish found it delicious and would strip the leaves. My angelfish devoured the plant. I switched to ludwigia ripens. The plant has the same effect, grows quicker, and taller, red and green leaves, and can be propagated simply and spread to other aquarium or in the same aquarium.

For plants like bacopa, ludwigia, and cobamba, with fine roots, a trick I like to use to plant them is to take a plastic pop bottle lid, drill an appropriate size hole in it comparable to how much root you will feed through it, and then void side up feed the roots through the hole until it’s full. When planted the void fills with substrate and anchors the plant in the substrate and keeps all the roots together and strong.

If you are looking for an underwater flowering plant that’s hardy, and easy to keep, I would recommend and Anubias BarterI Nana. They flower similar to a calla lily you’d find in a garden, but smaller.

Here are some examples from my aquarium


IMG_2897.JPG

IMG_2898.JPG

IMG_2899.JPG

I also kinda like the leopard ozelot sword. When it propagates it sends up a runner which will host 3 or more new plants. On the end of the runner is usually a faint white opaque flower. Nothing spectacular, but a flower nonetheless


IMG_3647.JPG

IMG_3648.JPG
IMG_3654.JPG

Hope that helps.
 

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MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #35
Cabomba and moneywort. You got a couple of interesting ones there.

Cabomba should be planted in the substrate. It should have little fine white roots. It’s hard to grow and melts easily in comparison to hornwort. Personally I would scrap the cobamba and switch to hornwort. Hornwort is just more resilient and less fragile. And to get the bushy effect of cobamba you can anchor hornwort closer together. Ive done this to conceal heaters and filter intakes.

Moneywort is like bocopa. I don’t grow it anymore because even my non plant eating fish found it delicious and would strip the leaves. My angelfish devoured the plant. I switched to ludwigia ripens. The plant has the same effect, grows quicker, and taller, red and green leaves, and can be propagated simply and spread to other aquarium or in the same aquarium.

For plants like bacopa, ludwigia, and cobamba, with fine roots, a trick I like to use to plant them is to take a plastic pop bottle lid, drill an appropriate size hole in it comparable to how much root you will feed through it, and then void side up feed the roots through the hole until it’s full. When planted the void fills with substrate and anchors the plant in the substrate and keeps all the roots together and strong.

If you are looking for an underwater flowering plant that’s hardy, and easy to keep, I would recommend and Anubias BarterI Nana. They flower similar to a calla lily you’d find in a garden, but smaller.

Here are some examples from my aquarium

View attachment 621833
View attachment 621834
View attachment 621835

I also kinda like the leopard ozelot sword. When it propagates it sends up a runner which will host 3 or more new plants. On the end of the runner is usually a faint white opaque flower. Nothing spectacular, but a flower nonetheless

View attachment 621841
View attachment 621842View attachment 621843

Hope that helps.

Wow amazing plant! Thank you for your information also. My main question now is that my Cabomba is doing well and grows every day, should I prune and propagate the top stems to replant them? Also the Ammannia gracilis, how far should I cut them?
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #36
I must have made a huge mistake and now it has me feeling like trash... I have a Cabomba plant and I know it’s a stem plant, it’s pretty healthy, it grows vertically every single day! So I decided to propagate it buy cutting the stem and replanting the other portion. But I kinda cut it in half totally, maybe even more... I don’t know if I totally messed it up to endanger the plants survival. Will it be okay? Is there anyways I can fix this issue if I did it completely wrong??
Image1569099893.681244.jpg
The bottom half from the original Cabomba :/

Image1569099941.155190.jpg
The top part of the Cabomba plant that I pruned to propagate. I buried it in the substrate to start rooting

My Ammannia gracilis though I cut the top 30-40% portions and replanted them around the tank. I’m not sure if I did it right, will the propagate or die? Can anybody please give me tips if I did it right and if I didn’t, how I should improve the method I did.
Image1569100165.718150.jpg
The bottom portion of the main Ammannia gracilis plant that I pruned.
Image1569100200.035561.jpg
The top half of the Ammannia Gracilis that I cut off from the stem and put into the substrate so it can root.
Image1569100293.601651.jpg
The other main portion of the Ammannia gracilis that I pruned leaving the stem a little tall, did I do it right?

Ps: how long does it take for these cut plants to grow more shoots? Also how long pruned pieces to start growing roots to get taller?

I really need help and guidance with these plants I am fairly new to the aquarium plants game, I love them more than anything! I really want them to grow happily and healthily. Thanks a lot.
 
Salem
  • #37
It should be fine- that's pretty much how I've propagated all my stem plants. I use regular flourish and flourish phosphorus and I usually see roots and new growth within a week.
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #38
It should be fine- that's pretty much how I've propagated all my stem plants. I use regular flourish and flourish phosphorus and I usually see roots and new growth within a week.

Thank you mr Salem.
 

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angelcraze
  • #39
I'm not familiar with cobamba so not sure, but I think it's like a reg stem plant. Yea, ammania gracilis can be snipped just above where two leaves sprout. I call this a leaf node.

Here's a good guide for pruning stems. Better than I could type out lol.
Trimming stem plants - Aquascaping Wiki
 
MoeTetrasMoeProblemz
  • Thread Starter
  • #40
I'm not familiar with cobamba so not sure, but I think it's like a reg stem plant. Yea, ammania gracilis can be snipped just above where two leaves sprout. I call this a leaf node.

Here's a good guide for pruning stems. Better than I could type out lol.
Trimming stem plants - Aquascaping Wiki

Wow what a great guide thanks so much I appreciate your help.
 

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