My list ok

$4.69 X 1 small moss ball
10 Gallon Beginners Plant Package
$21.99 X 1
$21.99
FLAME MOSS, Taxiphyllum sp. VERY RARE. beautiful
$7.99 X 1
$7.99
Staurogyne repens, Great foreground plant
$4.69 X 1
$4.69
Ludwigia repens, Broadleaf, colorful, EASY
$3.29 X 1
$3.29
BANANA PLANT, Nymphoides aquatica, VERY EASY
$3.19 X 1
$3.19
ANUBIAS NANA PETITE, Beautiful anubias specie
$6.99 X 1
$6.99
Cryptocoryne spiralis, Very Easy, Great beginner Plant
$3.99 X 1
$3.99
Bolbitis heudelotii, AFRICAN WATER FERN
$4.99 X 1
$4.99
CABOMBA PALAEFORMIS, purple Cabomba, lush plant
$3.29 X 1
$3.29
Brazilian Pennywort, Hydrocotyle leucocephala, EASY PLANT
$3.29 X 1
$3.29
GIANT HAIR GRASS, Eleocharis montevidensis, TALL PLANT
$4.95 X 1
$4.95
Bacopa Carolina, caroliniana, EASY PLANT
$2.99 X 1
$2.99
Dwarf Lily Plant , Nymphaea stellata
$3.39 X 1
$3.39

Low light easy plants for 10g?

Will they fit? Lol

What would you change?

 

I would cut down the number of plants - I think you have too many for a 10 gal. Fewer plants will still grow and fill your tank!

What's in the beginner plant package?

I would go with an easier crypt. I think C. spiralis needs medium light. No Bolbitis, giant hairgrass, or purple cabomba either.

If it were me, I would do these:
Crypt wendtii
Dwarf Lily
Small moss ball
Anubias nana petite
Bacopa or pennywort
Banana plant
Ludwigia
S. repens
Flame moss

 

Thank you. Whats wrong with cabomba?

 

Purple cabomba needs medium light I think.

 

Would 40par be enough.

 

I might recommend another anubias or two. They are very slow growing. Propogation takes a long time.

I'll also add that the ludwiga will lose the red color in low light. They are still very pretty in green and grow well

 

I was hoping ludwiga might give some color. Wasn't expecting red. I was trying for rookie friendly. Yet some contrast. While creating a full tank from start. I don't have a LFS. So figured id try buy quit a bit knowing ill loose some.

There is a narrow leaf anubias species in 10 gallon package. I'm guessing there packages would only provide a sparse tank at best.

 

I was hoping ludwiga might give some color. Wasn't expecting red. I was trying for rookie friendly. Yet some contrast. While creating a full tank from start. I don't have a LFS. So figured id try buy quit a bit knowing ill loose some.

It would depend on if you're dosing fertilizers and/or carbon. Ludwiga do contrast a lot and more if supplied with enough iron. The under sides of the leaves get a nice reddish hue to them. I'd post a pic, but I just trimmed and replanted mine low.

Bronze Crypts can add subtle color to a planted scape as well, though you would need to research their needs. I have considered them, but I went with a different strategy in my tank before I bought any.

 

I have complete seachem line and co2. So ill try. I'm hoping if nothing else I can keep it alive lol

 

How are you injecting CO2? Pressurized?

That opens a lot of possibilities and really would've helped at the start. What substrate do you have?

Recommend root tabs too

 

Sorry. I really thought my intial list was doable easy plants.

Standard 10g
Eco complete with sand beach
Stingray
Fluval 20 gallon co2 with bubble counter and drop checker
Seachem products and have root tabs for start up
Ac30 and rio50
Ehiem jager 50w

 

The Stingray doesn't push 40 par at a 10 gallon depth. All research I've done on lighting points to 30-35 ish depending on the meter.

You might be able to get ludwiga red, but it's a fickle plant sometimes. A. ReinekiI is an easy plant to be red, but may require a little more light.

Injected CO2 increases nutrient uptake, so I'd research fertilizer methods. It's a lot to take in at once, but easily doable when you break it down.

 

I think ill do well with macro and micro part. I'm in horticulture industry.

I saw 35 par at 12 in. I guesstimate 40ish based on few inches of substrate. Idk where exactly it would be at say 9.5 or 10 inches. Seems logical it be 40s but I'm no expert. This will be my first led light.

I really appreciate your help btw

 

The light sits on top of the tank about the height of the substrate depth, so the depth of the tank is the depth they use. If you go over 1-1.5 inches, it's another story, but no one records those off depths. You may be able to easily keep A. ReinekiI then. It'll really break up the color palette if you have a shallower depth

I've found that fertilizing the tank is different than soil in the way of numbers being far smaller. I'm not that big in the plant game, but I do what I can to learn more when I can, so my information is just based on lots of research.

I do know that micros aren't to be dosed on macro days because of phosphates and iron precipitating.

 

Thank you alot. Ill be following your posts.

 

Lol. I have been gearing up for my regulator to come in the mail, so I haven't been posting too much. I spent some money to go pressurized, stepping up from Excel with medium light.

There's a few fertilizer methods in a planted tank, one of which, estimative index, I will be using and tuning lean from there. It provides excess nutrients so the water column acts like potting soil. Other methods are very lean with the idea that it adds only what the plant needs.

Algae will also be a pain to figure out. It's the lack of a nutrient that spurns it on, not the excess. 95% of the time, it was found out to be low CO2 levels (under 25-30 mg/L in high light).

Feel free to ask any questions in the forum. There's very helpful people across many different subjects. I love helping out when I can. I may be late to the party and not be any help sometimes, but you can always mention me using the "@" symbol followed by my name (or any other person) like this; Grimund