My KH and GH test results

dapps06

I have hard water, that's not something I'm unaware of but apparently it's very hard. I used the API GH/KH test kit and found that my KH is 196.9 ppm (11 drops), and my GH was off the charts with 18 drops, 12 drops is the highest the chart goes. I noticed each drop needed raises the ppm by 17.9, so at 18 drops my GH is 322.2 ppm.

According to a very informative post I found on here my pH is directly related to my KH, so I'm expecting it to be on the high side, I'll find out tomorrow when my master test kit arrives. I'm worried about these results though because according to the instructions I fall in the 11-22 degree range which lists rift lake cichlids, goldfish, and brackish water fish as acceptable aquarium life for my gh/kh results. Not exactly what I was hoping for. To get down to the "most tropical fish" range I need to be in the 3-6 range or at least 6-11 range, which I'm nowhere close to. Is there anything that can be done about this?
 

CindiL

HI Dapps06, your KH is perfect and your GH is hard but most fish will adapt to a high PH and a high GH. Some people mix in RO water to soften the water or have a water softener in their house and use half soft and half hard. My PH is 8.0 and all the fish in my signature are just fine.

Edit: also here is a link to soften water.
 

Wideload

Yes you do have hard water but as CindiL has stated most fish will adapt to there surrounding. This I know because I have been keeping fish for 2 1/2 years and in all that time I have never checked my hardness probably should but my pH stays the same so I don't worry about.

Just acclimate your fish well I would recommend the drip method I know it can be a pain but it's the safest way I know to acclimate your fish's
 

Greenplant

Like Cindil says most fish will adapt to hard water condidtions the first time I checked my GH took 23 drops



To continue hit the wrong button I started using more R/O in my water changes and have it down to 16 drops but all fish have been doing fine.

 

dapps06

So I'm kind of confused by my pH test. I've included a photo, in person the blue color is much closer if not exact to the 7.6 reading, but the high range pH of 8.2 matches up perfectly in person as well though the photo makes that test look a bit darker as well. So is the pH just off the charts and I just want to see a lighter color?

Edit: I just read that you should aerate your water and test it after 24 hours, not straight from the tap. Though unfortunately I read that the reading will rise once that step is complete. Oh well, I can't change my water supply so hopefully my future tank inhabitants adapt well.

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CindiL

You have to remember that 7.6 is as high as the regular test goes. From your picture here your high ph range is 8.0. 8.2 is more of a maroon like color. Still think that's fine. I have kept fish for years in 8.0-8.2
Too hard of water / high ph is better then too low.

Not always true that ph rises, it depends what if any gasses are in your tap. If you have CO2, it will rise, if you have oxygen I believe it will lower.
 

dapps06

Oh okay, thank you. I'm determined to bring up a topic you know nothing about, I feel like that's going to take awhile haha.
 

CindiL

Oh okay, thank you. I'm determined to bring up a topic you know nothing about, I feel like that's going to take awhile haha.

Lol, I don't know a lot about different fish species.....
 

dapps06

So I just finished testing my tap water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Apparently I have high ammonia, again the picture looks darker than it did in person but I believe it's between 1-2ppm. Nitrite and nitrate both clearly read zero though so that's a plus. When my cycling is complete the bacteria gained will easily eliminate the level of ammonia my tap water has when I do water changes, right?


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CindiL

Yeah it sure well but you'll need to make sure you dose Prime for the full volume of the tank each time and you might want to double dose it as a single dose will only take care of 1.0ammonia. If the ammonia isn't gone in 24 hours you'll want to dose it again.
 

dapps06

Alrighty thanks again.
 

dapps06

So my tank seems to be cycling very quickly, it has been less than two weeks and I now have nitrates. I'll dose the ammonia up to around 4ppm today and test again tomorrow. I wonder if having a few plants sped up the process?


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CindiL

Great! You're not quite to the second stage of 0 ammonia with nitrite readings but you're getting there. Usually once nitrites start spiking I would recommend only dosing ammonia to 2.0 because you'll need to keep your nitrites under 4.0-5.0 or so. If it gets too high it has been known to stall cycles. When ammonia and/or nitrites are too high they are also toxic to the bacteria.

Remind me are you using Tetra Safe Start + or Stability? I would do a super large water change get your nitrites close to 0, dose ammonia to 2.0 and dump in a bottle of one of those.
 

dapps06

No I decided to skip out on the TSS or Stability. I just tested for ammonia again and it's at 2 ppm now, is two hours enough time for the added ammonia to register correctly? I'll probably test for nitrites later tonight or tomorrow morning and do a water change then. At this stage how quickly does ammonia become nitrite?
 

CindiL

Oh ok. Once you're done with the ammonia to nitrite stage (which you're not all the way there yet) the ammonia will disappear in 24 hours or less.
 

dapps06

I did a 75 percent water change last night, this morning my ammonia was 1ppm, nitrites were at 2ppm and nitrate was 5ppm. I'll test again later tonight, I'm probably going to hold off on adding ammonia until the nitrites go down a bit. I know you have to keep feeding the bacteria though so hopefully the nitrites are down a bit later tonight.
 

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