My Guppy Has Tb??

HI everyone,

I found one of my guppies lost much color about 3 weeks ago and started to have a very curved spine about 2 weeks ago. She also seems quite inactive though she still has good appetite for food. Please see attached s. The first one was taken 6 weeks ago when she was very healthy. The second and third ones are the current status. This guppy was purchased with another one (10 weeks ago) that started to have a very curved spine and became very inactive and anorectic and also developed some ulcers behind fins about 8 weeks ago and she died in the same week. I also attached a photo here (3 days before she died). So it looks to me that she passed the disease to her or they both got infected when they were still in the pet shop. I'm really very worried. Could anyone give me some ideas and it'd be much appreciated!

Thanks,
Ashely

Sorry I just checked the diary and found I mixed up some dates. The correct ones should be as below:

"This guppy was purchased with another one (6 weeks ago) that started to have a very curved spine and became very inactive and anorectic and also developed some ulcers behind fins about 5 weeks ago and she died in the same week."

 

HI everyone,

I found one of my guppies lost much color about 3 weeks ago and started to have a very curved spine about 2 weeks ago. She also seems quite inactive though she still has good appetite for food. Please see attached s. The first one was taken 6 weeks ago when she was very healthy. The second and third ones are the current status. This guppy was purchased with another one (10 weeks ago) that started to have a very curved spine and became very inactive and anorectic and also developed some ulcers behind fins about 8 weeks ago and she died in the same week. I also attached a photo here (3 days before she died). So it looks to me that she passed the disease to her or they both got infected when they were still in the pet shop. I'm really very worried. Could anyone give me some ideas and it'd be much appreciated!

Thanks,
Ashely

HI Asheley, welcome to Fishlore! Sorry about your beautiful guppy!
Can you fill out this emergency template first? That way we will all have the 'big picture' of what might have happened to your guppy and help you prevent it from happening again!
https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/aquatic-emergency-template.376562/
To answer your question about TB: I highly doubt the guppy died from fish TB. The 'drooping' your guppys body had is more typical of a fish that just 'feels' sick.

 

HI Momgoose,

Many thanks for your advice. I didn't realise there's a template for that. Please see the below info.
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Tank

What is the water volume of the tank?
How long has the tank been running?
Does it have a filter? Yes.
Does it have a heater? Yes.
What is the water temperature? Currently 25 Celsius degree (77 f degree) and was 23 Celsius degree 3 days before
What is the entire stocking of this tank? (Please list all fish and inverts.) 6 adult guppies in all with 24 guppy fries in a floating breeding box. Total size of tank is 10 gallon.

Maintenance
How often do you change the water? Every three days
How much of the water do you change? About 25~30%
What do you use to treat your water? Seachem Prime and Stability since last week, previously API Quick Start, Ammo Lock and Quick Coat.
Do you vacuum the substrate or just the water? I do vacuum the substrate and each time clean about 1/3 area.

*Parameters - Very Important
Did you cycle your tank before adding fish? Haven't fully cycled when add the fish
What do you use to test the water? API tester and PH meter
What are your parameters? We need to know the exact numbers, not just “fine” or “safe”.

Ammonia: 2.0ppm (Having been using Prime/Ammo Lock every other day since 4 weeks ago)
Nitrite: 1.0ppm
Nitrate: 25ppm
pH: 7.46

Feeding
How often do you feed your fish? Once a day
How much do you feed your fish? About 2~3 'bites' (little pcs) per fish
What brand of food do you feed your fish? HIKARI MICRO WAFERS
Do you feed frozen or freeze-dried foods? No

Illness & Symptoms
How long have you had this fish? Around 6 weeks
How long ago did you first notice these symptoms? About 3 weeks ago
In a few words, can you explain the symptoms? Discoloration, curved spine, a little inactive
Have you started any treatment for the illness? No, but I added salt (1 teaspoon per 20L) abt 3 weeks ago.
Was your fish physically ill or injured upon purchase? No, at least I didn't find anything on purchase
How has its behavior and appearance changed, if at all? Color and body shape as shown in my photos, and has become less active and swum more slowly.

Explain your emergency situation in detail. (Please give a clear explanation of what is going on, include details from the beginning of the illness leading up to now)
I hope my first post includes all the details for this question?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Sorry, I missed the first two questions -
What is the water volume of the tank? 10 gallon (40L)
How long has the tank been running? About 8 weeks

 

Just one small thing: I'd stop using the Ammo Lock. It seems to cause more problems than it solves, at least based on the threads here. Water changes and/or increasing the Seachem Prime dose might be better steps to take when trying to deal with elevated ammonia. Ammo Lock won't actually help resolve it and it'll keep the ammonia from being converted to nitrite.

 

Got it. Thanks for your note! I'm now only using Prime. I changed to Prime a couple of weeks ago because I noted a big drop in PH when I had been using Ammo Lock for a few days. I wasn't sure if it's caused by Ammo Lock though as conversion to nitrite also brings PH down.

Just an additional note -
Her poo has become transparent white since 4~6 days ago or even earlier if I didn't notice at first. I also attached a new photo here.

 

Internal parasite mabye?

 

Just in case it is fish TB, I would keep your bare hands out of the water for the time being because humans can catch it. Just to be safe.

 

Emaciation and any long/white/stringy poo makes me think of internal parasites as well. API General Cure would be a good med for that, if that's what's going on. I don't know how the fry would handle it, though. I typically dose Prazipro prophylactically to all new fish but for internal parasites I'd lean towards General Cure. I'm not a fish illness expert though, so wait to see what other people think.

 

I don't think general cure would be the fry killer it would be the minI cycle following the meds. this will most likely come with any meds tho so mabye salt will give a different result but don't quote me on that

 

Thanks for your all your comments! I do really hope it's just parasite rather than TB. BTW, one of my other guppies (from the same tank) is having swim bladder disorder for about 3 days now (which was the reason I raised the temperature). I wonder if both cases are related.

API General Cure would be a good med for that, if that's what's going on.

This looks a good way to try. Would it be better if take out my sick fish to treat first and if it works then apply to the whole tank?

Just in case it is fish TB, I would keep your bare hands out of the water for the time being because humans can catch it. Just to be safe.

Thanks for your note and yes, I'm wearing gloves to handle them.

 

Would it be better if take out my sick fish to treat first and if it works then apply to the whole tank?

If you suspect parasites I'd treat the whole tank. General Cure hasn't harmed my tank or plants when I used it but I didn't have fry so I don't know about that aspect. The tank didn't lose its cycle either but you'll want to keep tabs on water parameters afterwards to be safe.

One of my fish has had a crooked spine for years so your fish might be okay. It's not always TB, though that's certainly what comes to mind first when you see it.

Out of curiosity, what's the game plan for the fry? Male and female guppies together in a 10 gallon can get crazy really quickly.

 

You must kill any fish like this and use salt. Feed kanamycin flake food 2 times a day for 10-14 days.
Trust me I know tuberculosis. Once it gets a foodhold and some of those skinny bent spine guppies die in the tank, you will have a tankful of sick fish.
Guppies are fragile, more and more they are weak to mycrobacteria. In the fish farms, they have the Sun as a UV filter. You don't have that. You must watch them closely and any fish that gets like that must be disposed of.
You can find kanamycin flake online for $5 bucks. Its the best way trust me. Don't listen to these noobs.
I see it over and over, blah blah bent spine is genetic, wasting is parasites, no no. Please don't take this bad advice trust me. Its mycrobacteria, there are many different types. Once the skinny fish dies and the others eat it or swim in the dirty water they all get it. Please take my advice its good!!!

 

There's no need to be rude, Whitewolf. People can offer advice different from yours and that doesn't make them wrong or "noobs".

 

If you suspect parasites I'd treat the whole tank. General Cure hasn't harmed my tank or plants when I used it but I didn't have fry so I don't know about that aspect. The tank didn't lose its cycle either but you'll want to keep tabs on water parameters afterwards to be safe.

One of my fish has had a crooked spine for years so your fish might be okay. It's not always TB, though that's certainly what comes to mind first when you see it.

Out of curiosity, what's the game plan for the fry? Male and female guppies together in a 10 gallon can get crazy really quickly.

You must kill any fish like this and use salt. Feed kanamycin flake food 2 times a day for 10-14 days.
Trust me I know tuberculosis. Once it gets a foodhold and some of those skinny bent spine guppies die in the tank, you will have a tankful of sick fish.
Guppies are fragile, more and more they are weak to mycrobacteria. In the fish farms, they have the Sun as a UV filter. You don't have that. You must watch them closely and any fish that gets like that must be disposed of.
You can find kanamycin flake online for $5 bucks. Its the best way trust me. Don't listen to these noobs.
I see it over and over, blah blah bent spine is genetic, wasting is parasites, no no. Please don't take this bad advice trust me. Its mycrobacteria, there are many different types. Once the skinny fish dies and the others eat it or swim in the dirty water they all get it. Please take my advice its good!!!

Stop being an alarmist Whitewolf. For Pete's sake, the fish isn't skinny. The tank has high nitrite and ammonia levels. There's no compelling reason to suspect that the guppy is suffering from anything other than ammonia and nitrite poisoning.
That being the said Ashely, you need to get your ammonia and nitrite levels combined, down to 1ppm or less by doing some large water changes. Start with a 75% water change and check your ammonia and nitrite levels after that water change. If the combined level of ammonia plus nitrites is still over 1 ppm, immediately do another 50% water change. Keep doing this until the total of the two tests is 1 ppm or less. Then treat the whole tank with Prime, as directed on the product instructions. After that is done, continue dosing your tank with Prime exactly as directed on the product instructions. Check your ammonia and nitrite levels every other day, do water changes as needed to keep the combined levels at 1 ppm or less until your tank is cycled. Cycling, from the point you're at right now, will probably take at least another 3 weeks, maybe more. The Prime converts the ammonia and nitrites to a form that makes them less harmful to your fish and may result in an improvement in their symptoms. However, because they've been exposed to the high levels of ammonia and nitrites for so long already, they may have developed irreversible organ or tissue damage. If the skin lesions continue to worsen, their fins start showing signs of deterioration, they start acting like they're having difficulty breathing or any other new symptoms, you may need to start them on antibiotics or antifungal medication. You've got some work ahead of you but once your tank is fully cycled, with weekly water changes and regular tank maintenance, you and any future fish you get won't have to go through this again. Okay? You're doing fine so far. This is what's called fish-in cycling and we can help get you through it.

 

Many thanks for all of your suggestions and advice.

As for precaution, I did separate this sick yellow guppy from the tank as I was so afraid that she was infected with TB. I think I'll also do a medication for the whole tank with API General Cure (or/and something else that might also help). I'm really feeling desperate to save my poor guppies. In fact, I just found another guppy swimming abnormally so it means I now have two guppies having swimming problems (one with swim bladder disorder as I mentioned earlier) and one quite sick with curved back. Also, I noted some guppies are rubbing themselves against gravels and leaves which also made me think of parasites.

Start with a 75% water change and check your ammonia and nitrite levels after that water change. If the combined level of ammonia plus nitrites is still over 1 ppm, immediately do another 50% water change.

Thanks for the guide and I'll definitely try this today. My local pet shop just asked me to do a max 25% water change every three days but I've becoming more and more frustrated because my ammonia looks like it's constantly locked to over 1ppm!
Yes, I've been using Prime and will continue to use it until the cycling is totally completed.

Out of curiosity, what's the game plan for the fry? Male and female guppies together in a 10 gallon can get crazy really quickly.

The fries were given birth by two female guppies who had been pregnant when I bought them. I was so inexperienced and didn't even notice that at the time!ead: I've planned to give those fries to my mum but since her tank just started cycling, I thought I'd keep them with me first but now I think I just made a wrong decision.

Feed kanamycin flake food 2 times a day for 10-14 days.

If it's really TB, do I have to feed kanamycin to all other fish in the same tank?


Thanks again everyone.

 

If it's really TB, do I have to feed kanamycin to all other fish in the same tank?

If you decide it is TB then you'd want to dose the whole tank and remove any deceased fish before others can snack on it. The preferred treatment is kanamycin (e.g. "Kanaplex") and nitrofurazone (e.g. "Furan-2") together. Both are good meds.

Fish TB is more common than you might think. It might actually be as prevalent as ich, always lurking in the water waiting to take down a compromised fish. The elevated toxins in your water could have made the fish susceptible to it. If course, this is also true of other diseases so it can be difficult to pinpoint an illness when a tank is unhealthy. There's a sticky post about it on this group's landing page if you're interested.

 

Many thanks for all of your suggestions and advice.

As for precaution, I did separate this sick yellow guppy from the tank as I was so afraid that she was infected with TB. I think I'll also do a medication for the whole tank with API General Cure (or/and something else that might also help). I'm really feeling desperate to save my poor guppies. In fact, I just found another guppy swimming abnormally so it means I now have two guppies having swimming problems (one with swim bladder disorder as I mentioned earlier) and one quite sick with curved back. Also, I noted some guppies are rubbing themselves against gravels and leaves which also made me think of parasites.


Thanks for the guide and I'll definitely try this today. My local pet shop just asked me to do a max 25% water change every three days but I've becoming more and more frustrated because my ammonia looks like it's constantly locked to over 1ppm!
Yes, I've been using Prime and will continue to use it until the cycling is totally completed.


The fries were given birth by two female guppies who had been pregnant when I bought them. I was so inexperienced and didn't even notice that at the time!ead: I've planned to give those fries to my mum but since her tank just started cycling, I thought I'd keep them with me first but now I think I just made a wrong decision.


If it's really TB, do I have to feed kanamycin to all other fish in the same tank?


Thanks again everyone.

Your fish store is probably not your best source for information.
Do a LARGE water change. Start with 75% if your ammonia is over 1ppm. Then recheck your ammonia and nitrite levels. You'll want to keep the combined level of those two at 1ppm or less for the Prime to be most effective. A large water change will not hurt your fish. It will benefit them. Treating a disease without treating aggravating factors is useless.

 

I did a 60~70% water change 5 hours ago and now the ammonia level is still about 1.0ppm. I'm gonna do another large water change now.

In the meantime, could any of you suggest me what medication(s) I can apply in my whole tank? I'm attaching some photos of the other two sick fish here. I really really want to save them if possible.

p.s., The total hardness is about 1025ppm before I changed water (as I added 2 teaspoons of aquarium salt earlier). Do I need to add more salt after water change to maintain this level? I read that salt bath could benefit and help fish fight disease?

 

I did a 60~70% water change 5 hours ago and now the ammonia level is still about 1.0ppm. I'm gonna do another large water change now.

In the meantime, could any of you suggest me what medication(s) I can apply in my whole tank? I'm attaching some photos of the other two sick fish here. I really really want to save them if possible.

p.s., The total hardness is about 1025ppm before I changed water (as I added 2 teaspoons of aquarium salt earlier). Do I need to add more salt after water change to maintain this level? I read that salt bath could benefit and help fish fight disease?

Where did you get that total hardness number? What test kit are you using?
What is your ammonia/nitrites/nitrates after this last water change?

 

Tail drooping, stringy poo, floating oddly, bent spines, emancipation. Tail rot.
Its all signs of mycobacterium There are more than one type.
Read the article on these forums, there dosent have to be any reason to hold on to these fish until they die.
Culling a sick guppy will keep your tanks healthy and your hobby going smoothly.
Don't make the mistake I did and assume bent spines are genetic. A genetic bent spine is from birth. Any fish that develops one later on either needs more vitamins and minerals like calcium, or most likely, has some sort of mycrobacteria infection.
Not trying to be rude, but there is too much "my guppy bent spine" mis-information going around. Everyone says its genetics, not true.
Kanamycin will help. So will pro-biotic food, more vitamin rich food like spirulina, salt, and the ever important stress and culling.
Trust me I know what the problem is. It lives on surfaces like driftwood and forms a fungus like biofilm.
Read the article by diana walstad ...........mycobacterium

All due respect Momgoose56, you don't think this fish is skinny?

Mis-information makes me very rude in fact. There's far too many know-it-all noobs on the internet with very little practical knowledge other than a 5 minute google search or a one time experience in their limited experience.

 

Where did you get that total hardness number? What test kit are you using?
What is your ammonia/nitrites/nitrates after this last water change?

I used a TDS test meter (as in attached photo) to get the hardness number. I don't have a hardness test kit. Oh btw, I mistyped the salt dose - I actually used 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 gallons. After the second water change, I still have around 0.75~1ppm ammonia but nearly zero nitrite. Hardness from my TDS meter is 210ppm.

 

This may sound strange but if you only have guppies have you considered going brackish with them? Most bacteria doesn't do well with the change but some will argue guppies do better in brackish or even marine conditions.

 

I used a TDS test meter (as in attached photo) to get the hardness number. I don't have a hardness test kit. Oh btw, I mistyped the salt dose - I actually used 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 gallons. After the second water change, I still have around 0.75~1ppm ammonia but nearly zero nitrite. Hardness from my TDS meter is 210ppm.

I don't see a photo. I just asked because you said "The total hardness is about 1025ppm before I changed water..." and I was befuddled by that. That's incredibly high for a TDS, GH or KH. Just a typo then?
You'll want to do another 50% water change in a couple of days to keep those numbers down. How are the guppys?

 

Tail drooping, stringy poo, floating oddly, bent spines, emancipation. Tail rot.
Its all signs of mycobacterium There are more than one type.

Many thanks for your advice. Hopefully you are not thinking my other guppy is also infected with mycobacterium? (as attached)

Fish TB is more common than you might think. It might actually be as prevalent as ich, always lurking in the water waiting to take down a compromised fish.

It lives on surfaces like driftwood and forms a fungus like biofilm.

I have a driftwood in the tank. If it's really TB, do I have to remove it? Since most probably I'll have to keep my rest fish in this tank, is there anything I can do to at least control mycobacterium and minimize the chance of infecting other fish? I read UV light filter could help. Is it true?

Thanks again.

I don't see a photo. I just asked because you said "The total hardness is about 1025ppm before I changed water..." and I was befuddled by that. That's incredibly high for a TDS, GH or KH. Just a typo then?
You'll want to do another 50% water change in a couple of days to keep those numbers down. How are the guppys?

Sorry I forgot to attach! Here it is. Yeah, the value looks too high to be good, isn't it?
The guppies are looking like the same but hopefully they are feeling better now. But the yellow guppy I posted initially in the separate container really doesn't look ok, specifically, worse. I think she's dying...

This may sound strange but if you only have guppies have you considered going brackish with them? Most bacteria doesn't do well with the change but some will argue guppies do better in brackish or even marine conditions.

I'm using API aquarium salt and its instructions also say 2 tablespoons per 20L. I bought it before discovering the brackish one.

 

Hmmm tds for guppies I'm not sure of exactly but they are a hard water fish. AquaticJ and coralbandit use them so they may have a better idea of ideal.

This article may help some.

 

Thanks David.

This article may help some.

Ah that's enlightening! I had some misunderstandings. Many thanks for your info David!

 

Hmmm tds for guppies I'm not sure of exactly but they are a hard water fish. AquaticJ and coralbandit use them so they may have a better idea of ideal.

Lol, TDs of 1100 is practically swimming in mineral mud. It's what happens as ponds evaporate and no new water comes in or when tanks are topped off with tap water instead of changed. The taste of water that hard would be terrible-like sucking on limestone lol! TDS of 300 is bad enough! (What my moms agriculture well water was-only used for irrigation and hosing things down-log splitters, tractors, muddy dogs..."don't even drip that water on my Crown Vic"! Haahaha!

I don't know what a decent TDS for salt water is with all the salt in there. Probably slightly higher than fresh water though?

 

https://www.twdb.texas.gov/innovativewater/desal/faqseawater.asp
This is from that article I linked.

Fresh water by definition contains no more than 1500 mg/l of TDS. Brackish water contains 1500-5000 mg/l, and marine (salt) water has more than 5000 mg/l of TDS. Note that mg/l is basically equal to parts per million (ppm)

 

I don't see that freshwater statistic in the article you linked david1978. Did I miss it somewhere?
Here's another link:

This quote is in there. "TDS values in lakes and streams are typically found to be in the range of 50 to 250 mg/L." And mg/liter=ppm. Normal fresh water from lakes and streams is nowhere NEAR 1500 mg/l or ppm. "Very hard" water is defined as water with a TDS level of > or = 180ppm.


Like I said, you can't even DRINK water with a TDS of 300 or more without gagging and growing extra teeth with all the calcium/magnesium and other stuff in it lol!

 

Op did add salt so that may account for the high reading.

 

You must kill any fish like this and use salt. Feed kanamycin flake food 2 times a day for 10-14 days.
Trust me I know tuberculosis. Once it gets a foodhold and some of those skinny bent spine guppies die in the tank, you will have a tankful of sick fish.
Guppies are fragile, more and more they are weak to mycrobacteria. In the fish farms, they have the Sun as a UV filter. You don't have that. You must watch them closely and any fish that gets like that must be disposed of.
You can find kanamycin flake online for $5 bucks. Its the best way trust me. Don't listen to these noobs.
I see it over and over, blah blah bent spine is genetic, wasting is parasites, no no. Please don't take this bad advice trust me. Its mycrobacteria, there are many different types. Once the skinny fish dies and the others eat it or swim in the dirty water they all get it. Please take my advice its good!!!

I agree. Euthanise it.

 

I have a driftwood in the tank. If it's really TB, do I have to remove it? .

You can leave driftwood and decorations in a tank while medicating.

Debate of illnesses aside, how are the current water parameters and when's the last time you changed water - still high ammonia and nitrite? Ammonia and nitrite poisoning can be rough.

 

JenC is right. As previously suggested, you need to do water changes often enough to keep combined ammonia and nitrites to < 1.0ppm. Probably means testing water every other day. Treat with Prime.
You were asking about something to treat whole tank. API Furan2 is good for most of the symptoms your fish are having. Check water parameters, correct them with water change, remove any carbon from filtration system and treat with Furan2 per package directions.

 

The current ammonia level is 0.75~1ppm. Nitrite is nearly 0. What about another 25~30% water change the day after tomorrow?

You can leave driftwood and decorations in a tank while medicating.

Good, I'll leave it there then. Thanks.

You were asking about something to treat whole tank. API Furan2 is good for most of the symptoms your fish are having. Check water parameters, correct them with water change, remove any carbon from filtration system and treat with Furan2 per package directions.

Many thanks for getting back on this. I went to a few LFS but unfortunately none of them have API Furan2, General Cure or Kanaplex. (I may have forgot to mention that I'm located in Australia where there are limited products available from Seachem and API.) I can order them from Amazon but it'll take quite a few days. However, I found a product of kanamycin powder here which should be quite similar to Kanaplex. Instructions say add one tablet to the tank each day for three days and then put carbon back and do 25% water change on the fifth to seventh day. I'm wondering if I can try this product on my tank at all? Can kanamycin help with other bacterial/fungal-related diseases? If ok, I think I might start to apply after the next water change or the one after.

 

You can use Kanamycin
This is the Seachem description of Kanaplex (kanamycin) uses that might answer your questions:

Also, smaller water change is fine lol!

 

As Momgoose56 pointed out, just because a guppy is skinny dosent necessarily mean it has TB. The more obvious symptoms are random bent spine (after maturity) Spitting out food, and red lesions.
Didn't mean to ring alarm bells or scare anybody about TB. Mycobacteria is present everywhere in the environment, its something like columnaris……
MY POINT is that you need to always remove and either hospital tank or euthanize a sick guppy before it dies in the tank and spreads disease everywhere.

 

You can use Kanamycin
This is the Seachem description of Kanaplex (kanamycin) uses that might answer your questions:

Also, smaller water change is fine lol!

Many thanks for your info!

MY POINT is that you need to always remove and either hospital tank or euthanize a sick guppy before it dies in the tank and spreads disease everywhere.

Thanks Whitewolf, I did separate the yellow guppy on the day I started this post but I still couldn't make myself kill her... I wanted to euthanize her but I don't have the right chemicals to do in a humane way. (If anyone could suggest me a good way I'd appreciate it.)

Now she's very sick and the whole body is twisted, though I still haven't found any lesions on her body. I'm attaching a new photo here. She also gave birth to two fries yesterday but one was born dead. The other one is active and likes eating. But I guess I shouldn't by any means keep it, should I? I read that TB passes over to offsprings, correct? The look that it's healthy doesn't mean it can live long?

 

Many thanks for your info!


Thanks Whitewolf, I did separate the yellow guppy on the day I started this post but I still couldn't make myself kill her... I wanted to euthanize her but I don't have the right chemicals to do in a humane way. (If anyone could suggest me a good way I'd appreciate it.)

Now she's very sick and the whole body is twisted, though I still haven't found any lesions on her body. I'm attaching a new photo here. She also gave birth to two fries yesterday but one was born dead. The other one is active and likes eating. But I guess I shouldn't by any means keep it, should I? I read that TB passes over to offsprings, correct? The look that it's healthy doesn't mean it can live long?

I doubt that the fry would have survive if it were actually m. marinum. Fish don't actually get TB-or Leprosy, another mycobacterium. And yes you can keep the baby. Just get your main tank cycled and you shouldn't have any more problems.

 

I wanted to euthanize her but I don't have the right chemicals to do in a humane way. (If anyone could suggest me a good way I'd appreciate it.)

I keep clove oil on hand for euthanasia. It sedates them and slows down their bodily functions until they expire. You don't need much so a tiny bottle is sufficient for many applications on small fish. Below is the one I purchased way back but any should be fine.



The bent spine could just be from too much inbreeding or too many batches of fry. It's common with guppies. I'd continue monitoring her. Could it be TB? Maybe, maybe not. I don't see enough info to say that it is.

 

I doubt that the fry would have survive if it were actually m. marinum. Fish don't actually get TB-or Leprosy, another mycobacterium. And yes you can keep the baby. Just get your main tank cycled and you shouldn't have any more problems.

Thanks Momgoose56, I'll happily keep it then, though still in a separate container first.

I keep clove oil on hand for euthanasia. It sedates them and slows down their bodily functions until they expire. You don't need much so a tiny bottle is sufficient for many applications on small fish. Below is the one I purchased way back but any should be fine.

Thanks for letting me know! I'll get one soon.