My fancy guppy died. Need help figuring out why

  • Thread starter

cheesepuff

Well Known Member
Messages
1,148
Reaction score
19
Points
83
Experience
Just started
The last 24 hours he was looking rather sick. I'm not sure why. Today he died. =(

However, upon inspection of the corpse, I found an ooze coming out of his body, and his fins were nipped. here is a picture.

 

MalibuMafiaV

Valued Member
Messages
283
Reaction score
1
Points
101
Experience
1 year
How long was it alive in the tank prior to it passing? sorry for your loss btw.
 

TexasDomer

Fishlore Legend
Messages
33,052
Reaction score
9,022
Points
608
Experience
2 years
Was other fish were in the tank with him?
 

babynemo

Valued Member
Messages
114
Reaction score
0
Points
51
Experience
5 to 10 years

junebug

Fishlore Legend
Messages
13,461
Reaction score
2,251
Points
358
Experience
5 to 10 years
The nipping is from other fish, or simple decay. The ooze is from decay. Neither would have killed him, that's just what happens to fish when they die.

As for what may have killed him, we'll need details on his symptoms, tank size and water parameters, and a list of tankmates.
 
  • Thread starter

cheesepuff

Well Known Member
Messages
1,148
Reaction score
19
Points
83
Experience
Just started
he was the only fancy guppy.


he lived with

3 common plecos (they are going to be donated to someone else very soon)

7 platty's

3 black mollies

1 silver mollie

several ghost shrimp

10 snails




tank size is 30 gallons


PH is 7

Amonia is at very low levels



I could tell something was wrong with him for last last 24 hours before his death. I have no idea what though. I need to get more testing supplies, but my car is in the shop at the moment, so I'm stuck at my house.
 

junebug

Fishlore Legend
Messages
13,461
Reaction score
2,251
Points
358
Experience
5 to 10 years
Any ammonia is too much ammonia. Is your tank cycled? I'm guessing it's not if you have ammonia present. Do you know about the nitrogen cycle?
 
  • Thread starter

cheesepuff

Well Known Member
Messages
1,148
Reaction score
19
Points
83
Experience
Just started
i have a meter in the tank that measures ammonia, and its currently at the lowest measurement possible in the safe zone.
 

Dom90

Fishlore VIP
Messages
5,449
Reaction score
10
Points
223
Experience
3 years
Well, your tank isn't cycled and you have fish with huge bioloads in a small tank size.


 
  • Thread starter

cheesepuff

Well Known Member
Messages
1,148
Reaction score
19
Points
83
Experience
Just started
which of the fish have the biggest bio loads from largest to smallest?

The ammonia is below 0.02 ppm

 

junebug

Fishlore Legend
Messages
13,461
Reaction score
2,251
Points
358
Experience
5 to 10 years
Ammonia meters aren't necessarily all that accurate. I'd suggest you get a drop test kit for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. The API master kit is an affordable and accurate kit for this.

Mollies have extremely high bioloads. I think just the number of them you have in the tank would fully stock it, particularly if you have any females, as they'll be popping out babies once a month. But then you have platies, and common plecos. Common plecos are massive waste producers and are not suitable for most aquaria.
 
  • Thread starter

cheesepuff

Well Known Member
Messages
1,148
Reaction score
19
Points
83
Experience
Just started
I just got back from donating the plecos. Three fish have been removed from my tank. On top of that, I just got my water tested with a much better water testing kit and I had, and the results were devastating. Chalk this one up to a serious newbie mistake. I took pictures of the results. I will post them when I have a chance. I got some special bacteria called tetra SafeStart plus and put the appropriate amount of it in my tank. It says that it reduces ammonia and nitrite which was very present in the tank after all. This would explain a lot. I will never trust one of those in tank meters again. From now on I'll have it properly tested.

 
  • Thread starter

cheesepuff

Well Known Member
Messages
1,148
Reaction score
19
Points
83
Experience
Just started


as you can, the water is terrible. I can only hope the stuff I bought helps out. I was instructed to take out my carbon filters for a few days as well as not use my UV filter (just got it in the mail today) until the water checks out as good.
 

Bijou88

Well Known Member
Messages
3,967
Reaction score
20
Points
83
Experience
1 year
The carbon won't affect the tetra safe start, I would leave it in if your filters have cartidges with carbon in them. ..that's where the bacteria sticks.

 

babynemo

Valued Member
Messages
114
Reaction score
0
Points
51
Experience
5 to 10 years
Also, I would get a API Freshwater Master Kit, as those stick tests are not very reliable.
 
  • Thread starter

cheesepuff

Well Known Member
Messages
1,148
Reaction score
19
Points
83
Experience
Just started
Bijou88 said:
The carbon won't affect the tetra safe start, I would leave it in if your filters have cartidges with carbon in them. ..that's where the bacteria sticks.
I have a sponge on the intake. could that work as a place for the bacteria to grow?
 

Bijou88

Well Known Member
Messages
3,967
Reaction score
20
Points
83
Experience
1 year
That will help somewhat but you really need to leave your filter media in there, the carbon won't hurt the cycle a bit. You only need to remove it when adding medication, not bacterial supplements.

 

DioAquatics

Fishlore VIP
Messages
5,216
Reaction score
4,637
Points
498
Experience
More than 10 years
As mentioned above, you should get the API liquid test master kit. It is so much more reliable than the test stripes. I would also recommend getting SeaChem Prime. Other members of the forum have suggested it to me and it has been nothing but benefitial to my fish and my tank.
 
  • Thread starter

cheesepuff

Well Known Member
Messages
1,148
Reaction score
19
Points
83
Experience
Just started
I have the api master test kit coming in the mail.

 
  • Thread starter

cheesepuff

Well Known Member
Messages
1,148
Reaction score
19
Points
83
Experience
Just started
Since the tank has not been fully cycled before, should I just pour the entire bottle of the safe Start + in the tank? I've been going by the instructions on the part that says add based on the size of the tank, but it says if its a new tank I should just use the entire bottle. The entire bottle is good for up to 40 gallon aquariums. Some of my ghost shrimp are still dying, so I'm assuming the water still isn't where it needs to be. My API master test kit will not come in the mail until Tuesday, and my car is in the shop for repairs so I got to kind of just go based off your guyses recommendation for now.

 
Toggle Sidebar

New Threads

Similar Threads

Aquarium Calculator

Aquarium Photo Contests

Follow FishLore!

FishLore on Social Media





Top Bottom