My DIY Sump progress

Dark_Rider2k3
  • #1
So I am going to make a sump to connect my 2.5-gallon and 20-gallon Betta tanks. I made a picture (yeah, I am not an artist LOL) to give you an idea of how things are going to be:



So, here is what I know:

1. I am going to have to outlets to the sump. 1 from my 20gal, and another from my 2.5gal

2. I am estimating the amount of water to be around 55gallons total. So, I figure I will need to get a filter + heater rated for 60-70 gallons.

Now, I have a few questions:

What do you use to pump the water from the sump back into the tank? I would assume powerheads, but what are the recommendations for this?

I was also thinking of making my own overflow for both tanks. Do you think that cutting into milk cartons would do the trick? I can get some milk cartons (or juice cartons), and cut them out to make an overflow... just wanted to know what you all did in terms of the overflow?

Finally, I am wondering if there is anything special needed for the sump? I see a lot of sumps with chambers (like ones that trap bubbles) and are they needed? The only reason I am making the sump is so that I can have a greater amount of water flowing into my 2.5, so it can maintain a more constant (and safer) temperature.

Thanks a lot everyone!
 
≈ D ≈
  • #2
Ok lets see, the most effiecient way (imo) to do this is using 1" and ¾" PVC pipe, clear plastic tote/container than can hold at least 15 gallon of water and a water pump.

A powerhead would not be strong enough to push the water back up to the tanks from the sump. You want a proper water pump such as this to do the job right (and they are not that pricey either).

To make the overflows, you should look at overflow to put one together for each tank. I would use the 1" PVC pipe for the 20 gallon tank and the ¾" PVC pipe for the 2.5g tank and either have them both run into the sump seperately or have the ¾" pipe tie into the 1" pipe somewhere along the way.

The pipe from the water pump will have to match the pumps outlet, so I would get the pump first, them got to your local hardware store (with pump) to get the bits and pieces of PVC needed. Also, you'll need to have a 'T' piece coming off the pipe from the pump somewhere to distribute the returning water to the 2.5g

I know this sort of sounds complicated but it isn't that hard to do in reality - just need to plan it out properly and then pick up your materials and then put it together.

If I get the chance to do so in the next couple of days, I'll get a diagram up in here for you to see how it would all look.
 
Dark_Rider2k3
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
Gotcha! I didn't know what size PVC to use and that helps out a lot. As for the plastic tote, I have a 16.5 gallon tote. Now, I'm assuming that I should fill it about.. umm 3/4 of the way? Thanks also for the information about the powerhead. I'll check my LFS for any pumps like that, as my LFS has everything haha. If not I can get it from drfostersmith but i'd rather get it locally if I can lol. I'm assuming since my tanks are so small that I don't need a very powerful pump, am I right? The page on the overflow, btw, is awesome too. I didn't know you could create one like that, and I had planned something like this:

I was going to use milk cartons to make the "chambers" (the one on the outside and one on the inside), and have lots of holes in milk carton inside the tank, to prevent the fish from being sucked in. I was also going to use some clear tubing to connect both. But I can do yours as well . My biggest ? about the overflow you linked me is with the airline tubing. I have lots of it but do I have to make that pipe, or can I get a pipe like that at a hardware store? I am also guessing that I can make it any size I want (bigger for the 20gal, and smaller for the 2.5 gal). I was thinking of making them "tie-in" to each other (in terms of the the water inlet. I could have a T- pipe that shrinks in diameter when it goes to the 2.5, and the other side could lead to the 20. If you think that will work. I'll check on the pumps first, and then go to the hardware store for the return PVC piping. I am guessing, though, that the sump's intake piping can be done at any time (as it only uses gravity to allow water flow and does not require anything special). And it's not complicated at all! I am pretty good with these things, and this did not go over my head at all . And yeah thanks for the help!!
 
pepetj
  • #4
I have tried different powerheads to bring water from the sump to the tank.
The one rated at 900LPH (237GPH) so far is the minimum that works propperly, lower than that forget it.

The upper limit for my set up (standard stand) I used 360GPH (1,400LPH) and it was almost too strong.

So for standard commercially available stand and tanks (at least All-Glass Aquarium and Perfecto), for 19" tall tanks, this is the working range that has worked for me: 237GPH to 360GPH (900-1,400LPH).

Note: When using an in-line chiller(sump-to-chiller-to-tank) I used a 6,000GPH water pump (adjustable flow) with no problems, and the 360GPH powerhead worked fine but not the 237GPH.

Pepe
Santo Domingo
 
Peterpiper
  • #5
I would look at a bubble trap in the sump.
You wil get some bubbles from the overflow to the sump and if the bubbles get to the powerhead/return pump you will get some micro bubbles in the 2 DT..
 
Dark_Rider2k3
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
I would look at a bubble trap in the sump.
You wil get some bubbles from the overflow to the sump and if the bubbles get to the powerhead/return pump you will get some micro bubbles in the 2 DT..

what do you mean by micro bubbles in the DT? I am just a slight bit confused by this...

and (@ pepetj), I am not using a chiller at the moment, just the 2 aquariums connected. And I'll be going for the smallest gph, as I don't want a lot of flow going into their tanks (the bettas would hate it lol)
 
Peterpiper
  • #7
When the water flows from the DT ( Display Tank ) to the sump, it will get some air bubbles along the way, if the bubbles get sucked into the return pump, the bubbles get chopped up into lots of very small bubbles or micro bubbles. As the micro bubbles are so small they tend to float around in the DT, look like small grains of sand... not a good look
 
≈ D ≈
  • #8
Gotcha! I didn't know what size PVC to use and that helps out a lot. As for the plastic tote, I have a 16.5 gallon tote.

Yep, that should be fine.

Now, I'm assuming that I should fill it about.. umm 3/4 of the way?

Sounds good to me.

Thanks also for the information about the powerhead. I'll check my LFS for any pumps like that, as my LFS has everything haha. If not I can get it from drfostersmith but i'd rather get it locally if I can lol. I'm assuming since my tanks are so small that I don't need a very powerful pump, am I right?

Assuming you want to get one of those Quiet One pumps, the 1200 model would be sufficient. Your LFS should either have them or be able to order them - if your print out the page from Dr F&S, they may even pricematch.

The page on the overflow, btw, is awesome too. I didn't know you could create one like that, and I had planned something like this:

I was going to use milk cartons to make the "chambers" (the one on the outside and one on the inside), and have lots of holes in milk carton inside the tank, to prevent the fish from being sucked in. I was also going to use some clear tubing to connect both. But I can do yours as well . My biggest ? about the overflow you linked me is with the airline tubing. I have lots of it but do I have to make that pipe, or can I get a pipe like that at a hardware store? I am also guessing that I can make it any size I want (bigger for the 20gal, and smaller for the 2.5 gal).

The airline tubing in that overflow that is connected to the airline shut-off valve (or you can use a non-return valve) and used to suck out the air from the top curve of the PVC, can be any length (assuming that is the 'pipe' in question - otherwise you'll have to clarify some more )

I was thinking of making them "tie-in" to each other (in terms of the the water inlet. I could have a T- pipe that shrinks in diameter when it goes to the 2.5, and the other side could lead to the 20. If you think that will work.

Exactly what I was trying to explain, glad you were able to understand me.

I'll check on the pumps first, and then go to the hardware store for the return PVC piping. I am guessing, though, that the sump's intake piping can be done at any time (as it only uses gravity to allow water flow and does not require anything special). And it's not complicated at all! I am pretty good with these things, and this did not go over my head at all . And yeah thanks for the help!!

You are welcome bud Now to wet your pallet even more have a look at this page for when you get a bigger tank >
 
≈ D ≈
  • #9
One thing I forgot to mention. To prevent fish from being sucked into the overflow, you can use some nylon door screen netting or an unused fishnet stocking drool over the hole and secure it to the pipe with a ziptie. This will negate the need for the milk cartons and give a cleaner, less cluttered look.

I'm also trying to find another example for you to look over and if I find it before you decide to start I'll post it up.
 
Dark_Rider2k3
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
Okay what I meant by the airline tubing is the actual PVC pipe the airline tubing is connected to. Do they sell PVC pipes that can connect airline tubing, or do I have to make it myself...

and thanks for the tips on the nylon screen. I'll have to check that out

and i've started parts of it. I put the sump where I want it, and sometime soon I will go get the pump. then I'll get the PVC piping, and then the filters and .. so I'm slowly building this up.
 
≈ D ≈
  • #11
Okay what I meant by the airline tubing is the actual PVC pipe the airline tubing is connected to. Do they sell PVC pipes that can connect airline tubing, or do I have to make it myself...

and thanks for the tips on the nylon screen. I'll have to check that out

and i've started parts of it. I put the sump where I want it, and sometime soon I will go get the pump. then I'll get the PVC piping, and then the filters and .. so I'm slowly building this up.

Ok, now I understand the question. That is step 4 in the guide and uses one of these


307.jpg
 
Dark_Rider2k3
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
ahh okay.. I re-read it and saw on step 4 what you do.. makes more sense now .

I'll post some pics up as the progress goes along.. won't be started it through until next week.
 

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