Multifasciatus setup help please

WillM

Hi there,

Im setting up my first shell dweller tank and need a bit of help. I have aragonite as a substrate, a piece of Texas holy rock, crushed coral in my HOB and on top of the substrate and of course escargot shells. Currently my PH is sitting around 7.8-8 and I was wondering if this will be alright for the multis? I am not to keen on using manufactured buffers, because I'm not always around to make sure the parameters are in check, and i've heard from a lot of people that its better to have a stable PH then to "chase it".

Any help will be really appreciated,

Will
 

Tup

Yeah, that will be perfect for them, and those people were right, its a lot better to have a stable Ph, Temp, Etc. Also since they will have been raised in captivity they won't need as high of a Ph, Kh or Gh although they would appreciate it. I'm also in the process of setting up a Shellie tank but for Brevis instead.
Hope this helps, any other questions, feel free to ask :)
 

WillM

Yeah, that will be perfect for them, and those people were right, its a lot better to have a stable Ph, Temp, Etc. Also since they will have been raised in captivity they won't need as high of a Ph, Kh or Gh although they would appreciate it. I'm also in the process of setting up a Shellie tank but for Brevis instead.
Hope this helps, any other questions, feel free to ask :)
Thanks for the help mate, was feeling a bit lost.
 

Tup

Don't worry about it :)
 

WillM

Don't worry about it :)
Hey sorry I just have one more question, I know that multis are Tanganyikan but I read they like a PH of 8.2ish. Currently the tank is sitting around 7.8 like i mentioned earlier. My question is when doing water changes (only small ones max 20%) would i need to use a artificial buffer prior to putting the new tap water into the tank or would it be alright just as is (after being dechlorinated)? i believe it comes out of my tap around 7.3-4
 

Flyfisha

Hi WillM
I ran a successful tank of shellies for over 3 years .
Ok I live in Australia and the strain I had were locally breed before I got them . However our strain is happy in soft water. A PH of 7 is what they had. I am the only one in my local club to have even used Texas holy rock in the tank.

I used the same soft water for water changes as for all my tanks. When Covid-19 stopped auctions and the shops closed I had no where to take fish. In the end I was doing 2 or 3 50% water changes each week in the 21 gallon. Only when the population got to plus 80 adults ( I counted them) did the juveniles start eating the young fry. Still a handful of fry survived in the little 82 litres/ 21 gallon tank .

You should have dozens of escargot shells all across the sand . Forget about tank mates.

I would recommend a stable PH as much more important than the correct PH

If you are going to use a buffer you will need to add it each time. Adding exactly the same amount to every bucket always. If you decide to stop I would recommend you lower the buffer amount slowly over many weeks.

An exciting species to watch. They enjoy live baby brine but probably don’t have to have it? The same with live micro worms it’s probably not necessary but must explain the numbers of fry? I sold hundreds in the time I had them . You will need to find an outlet NOW.
1C95FEFC-2C67-43E0-93CA-EC30CD6693B2.jpeg
 

WillM

Hi WillM
I ran a successful tank of shellies for over 3 years .
Ok I live in Australia and the strain I had were locally breed before I got them . However our strain is happy in soft water. A PH of 7 is what they had. I am the only one in my local club to have even used Texas holy rock in the tank.

I used the same soft water for water changes as for all my tanks. When Covid-19 stopped auctions and the shops closed I had no where to take fish. In the end I was doing 2 or 3 50% water changes each week in the 21 gallon. Only when the population got to plus 80 adults ( I counted them) did the juveniles start eating the young fry. Still a handful of fry survived in the little 82 litres/ 21 gallon tank .

You should have dozens of escargot shells all across the sand . Forget about tank mates.

I would recommend a stable PH as much more important than the correct PH

If you are going to use a buffer you will need to add it each time. Adding exactly the same amount to every bucket always. If you decide to stop I would recommend you lower the buffer amount slowly over many weeks.

An exciting species to watch. They enjoy live baby brine but probably don’t have to have it? The same with live micro worms it’s probably not necessary but must explain the numbers of fry? I sold hundreds in the time I had them . You will need to find an outlet NOW.
1C95FEFC-2C67-43E0-93CA-EC30CD6693B2.jpeg
Thanks for the awesome info! Im in Aus as well, glad to hear someone is keeping them in the local water parameters for SEQ. I think i'll avoid buffers and just use natural substitutes. However, I've ordered mine from a breeder who keeps his in a high PH and coming in the post I've been told a get em in straight away method is the way to go, but I'm just a little concerned about the change in PH from his water to mine, do you think this will be safe?

BTW awesome setup
 

Flyfisha

From what I am told the PH swing of one full point in 24 hours is the killer. Anything less than one full point in 24 hours is not so bad. At least that is the “ story “when the question of a PH swing is raised at my local club.

You should try and match the PH for the fish when the arrive if you can.



In reply to your question about the “get em in straight away” technique my understanding is if the plastic bag is a non breathable ( standard type) and the fish have been in the sealed bag for more than 24 hours then yes the get em in technique is needed. It is said that with a bag that has been sealed that long as the fresh oxygen pours in on opening the water becomes toxic in a few minutes. I have no experience with pouring in Prime to a bag that has just been opened. I have only limited experience with the get em in straight away technique .

I have had fish survive being delayed an extra 48 hours in the post from Queensland however they were in tiny breathing bags that are 100% water with no air actually in the bag.

With standard bags that have been sealed a long time I have tried both techniques and not lost any fish in the first 48 hours. I have lost fish after 3 or 4 days but don’t remember which was which.

Sorry I can’t give you a definite answer on the best course of action. Except to say follow the advice of the seller.
 

WillM

From what I am told the PH swing of one full point in 24 hours is the killer. Anything less than one full point in 24 hours is not so bad. At least that is the “ story “when the question of a PH swing is raised at my local club.

You should try and match the PH for the fish when the arrive if you can.



In reply to your question about the “get em in straight away” technique my understanding is if the plastic bag is a non breathable ( standard type) and the fish have been in the sealed bag for more than 24 hours then yes the get em in technique is needed. It is said that with a bag that has been sealed that long as the fresh oxygen pours in on opening the water becomes toxic in a few minutes. I have no experience with pouring in Prime to a bag that has just been opened. I have only limited experience with the get em in straight away technique .

I have had fish survive being delayed an extra 48 hours in the post from Queensland however they were in tiny breathing bags that are 100% water with no air actually in the bag.

With standard bags that have been sealed a long time I have tried both techniques and not lost any fish in the first 48 hours. I have lost fish after 3 or 4 days but don’t remember which was which.

Sorry I can’t give you a definite answer on the best course of action. Except to say follow the advice of the seller.
sounds good, btw do you sell/ship your multis or other fish? for future reference
 

Flyfisha

I no longer have shellies . I gave them to my local shops . I wanted the tank for other projects and 2 feet / 60 cm was just one big colony anyway. If I did keep them again it might be nice to have two groups in a 4 foot/ 1200 mm tank with open sand without shells in the middle. That might look nice ?

Very quickly they over populated. I was selling them as fast as possible at the same time as trying to keep the price at the “ correct “ amount so as not to upset fellow club members. About $12 -$18 Australian each.

I have a few shops that take fish from me.
I take fish to my local club each month. As well as the yearly local all day auctions I go to Sydney auctions or did before COVID.

I don’t raise fish for profit I do it for fun. Given the cost of brine shrimp eggs there is no way I could make a profit. The cost of food alone is much more than the returns from selling fish.
 

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