Molly fry growth rate ?

waqarzaib
  • #1
ok I started mollies then breeding then babies now I want to know how much time they will need to grow ?
 
RogueAgent94
  • #2
they grow really fast at first but then they slow down. I would say around 3 months till breeding age and then 6 months till they are normal sized. Takes a BIG tank to get them big that fast though, and they have to be away from parents.
 
aquari-girl
  • #3
Feed them good food, boiled egg yolks, and freshly hatched brine shrimp. This will not only help them grow faster, but will help their colors. The growth rate varies from fish to fish, but it normally takes mine about two or three months before I let them out with the other fish, and such. But I use a breeders net, which isn't really suggested but it's only for the occasional fish I take pity on.

Hope this helps!
 
waqarzaib
  • Thread Starter
  • #4
I have their parents in 60 gallon...I have some deco plants ,gravel etc.I don't think it is enough for them to hide...what should I do to make them hide...
 
aquari-girl
  • #5
RogueAgent94
  • #6
Java moss is good but it only saves about 20% of the babies. I suggest getting a small 10 gallon or 20 gallon tank for the fry to grow up in. That's what I do. I have small 5 gallon for the mothers to give birth in, then I take the mothers out and move the babies into a 30 gallon with a bunch of other fry from the same parents. But you can mix fry from different parents it doesn't matter, I just do it because I sell my fish and I keep records of their genealogy.
 
aquari-girl
  • #7
Java moss is good but it only saves about 20% of the babies. I suggest getting a small 10 gallon or 20 gallon tank for the fry to grow up in. That's what I do. I have small 5 gallon for the mothers to give birth in, then I take the mothers out and move the babies into a 30 gallon with a bunch of other fry from the same parents. But you can mix fry from different parents it doesn't matter, I just do it because I sell my fish and I keep records of their genealogy.

I haven't heard that. Huh, oh well. I researched a bit, but when I couldn't convince my guppys and platys to breed, I gave up, not that I need anymore fish.
 
RogueAgent94
  • #8
Hehe, I'm just talking from my personal experience, other's may have had better luck with Java Moss or think they have because they find so many babies but usually livebearers have huge broods.
 
bowcrazy
  • #9
I have lots of plastic hornswart and moneywart in my molly birthing tank. I place lots around the back corners and leave the front center open. It works pretty good but I know I loose a few fry to the adults. It works well enough for me to be able to take at least 40 to 80 juveniles to the pet stores once a month to trade for supplies.
 
waqarzaib
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
yuppy ....9 more fries but don't know how many were born...
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #11
Hey! One and a half week ago, I got two silver mollies and two goldfish from a pet store. I have a 20 gallon tank which I ran for about 3 weeks with a betta (I gave it away later on ) and an internal filter with pebble substrate, a toy and many artificial plants. I do not use a heater as the temperature here in summers is
usually about 25 - 35 degree celcius. Ok, coming back, the next day when I woke up after getting the fish, One of the mollies had already died and delivered a bunch of babies which the goldfish were happily munching upon. I separated the fry (22 now, 3 died)and put them in a tub. Some while later, my other molly also began swimming erratically and died. Now, I have given away the goldfish and I am keeping the molly fries in the main tank. I have also switched off the filter since the flow rate is high and unadjustable. I will just be using an air pump for the time being. I feed them finely ground betta fish food (since its high in protein and has spirulina) and hard boiled eggs and blanched peas on alternate days. I dont find them very interested in food but since they poop considerably, I dont worry much about it. Am I doing things right?

This is a very zoomed in pic. Best one I could get.

Some of them also seen to be darker and have stripe like things on their bodies. They also have darker eyes. Should I be worried?
 

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Shrimp42
  • #12
Did you cycle your tank?
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #13
Did you cycle your tank?
I actually dont test the water (planning to do so in the future), but could that be the reason why they are turning dark?
And yes, I ran the tank with filter and everything for about 3 weeks with my betta.
 
Shrimp42
  • #14
I actually dont test the water (planning to do so in the future), but could that be the reason why they are turning dark?
And yes, I ran the tank with filter and everything for about 3 weeks with my betta.
Thats not cycling. You should read up on how to cycle a tank because if you don't the fry will die of nitrogen poison. The black may be natural because the babies are maturing and as they mature they will develop more color. What did the parents look like?
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #15
W
Thats not cycling. You should read up on how to cycle a tank because if you don't the fry will die of nitrogen poison. The black may be natural because the babies are maturing and as they mature they will develop more color. What did the parents look like?
We got the mother from the LFS and she dropped the next day. She was pure silver in colour but no idea about the dad.
 
Shrimp42
  • #16
W

We got the mother from the LFS and she dropped the next day. She was pure silver in colour but no idea about the dad.
They more than likely died to nitrogen poisoning. Erratic swimming means bad water quality. I would cycle the tank. If multiple fry develop black then its probably natural.
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #17
Ok Thanks! I will look into what I can do. Actually the place where I live, we dont get test kits. Is there any other way in which I can know my water parameters and maintain perfect conditions?
 
Shrimp42
  • #18
Ok Thanks! I will look into what I can do. Actually the place where I live, we dont get test kits. Is there any other way in which I can know my water parameters and maintain perfect conditions?
No not that I know of. Where do you live? Maybe you can order them.
 
fishnovice33
  • #19
I’m going to be honest.

No one can tell you if you’re on track because no one knows your water parameters. Unless you’re a pretty well seasoned aquarist it’s not easy to cycle a tank and know if your conditions are ‘perfect’.

I’d ask you to evaluate what has happened so far - you put two goldfish and more fish in a 20 gallon. This is overstocking. Why? Because goldfish create a ton of ammonia.

You do not have a heater but are putting fish that need a heater in a tank. The justification is the temperature of the air, during the summer, outside your house. But that isn’t relevant to the fish.

You ran the filter for three weeks prior to adding fish, with zero testing and no source of ammonia and considered that cycling the tank.

Multiple hardy, easy to keep fish are consistently dying in your tank, but you don’t seem to question why.

No filter or heater for the babies, in un cycled water, probably over feeding. None of this is correct.

You’re concerned about the color of your fry?

I think you should try and give them away and put the whole fish thing on hold until you’re able or willing to take the time to educate yourself on cycling your tank and provide an adequate environment for the species you want to keep.

Your fish are dying because your water parameters are not proper, neither is your temperature, poor mix of species in a 20 gallon, probably a lack of water changes resulting in high ammonia. Those things are obvious but there could be many other things wrong.

If you want to keep the babies, it’s going to be extremely hard to give you advice to obtain ‘perfect conditions’ for the fry. Get a heater, do water changes everyday with something like Prime. Get a low flow filter like a turtle filter. Keep doing water changes. Don’t over feed. Assume the filter establishes bacteria in 4-6 weeks, so you can ease up on water changes then go to 1-2 times a week, 30-50% depending on your best guess of toxins are in your tank.
Try and guess your parameters the best you can so more fish don’t die (?). This will give the fry good conditions.
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #20
I’m going to be honest.

No one can tell you if you’re on track because no one knows your water parameters. Unless you’re a pretty well seasoned aquarist it’s not easy to cycle a tank and know if your conditions are ‘perfect’.

I’d ask you to evaluate what has happened so far - you put two goldfish and more fish in a 20 gallon. This is overstocking. Why? Because goldfish create a ton of ammonia.

You do not have a heater but are putting fish that need a heater in a tank. The justification is the temperature of the air, during the summer, outside your house. But that isn’t relevant to the fish.

You ran the filter for three weeks prior to adding fish, with zero testing and no source of ammonia and considered that cycling the tank.

Multiple hardy, easy to keep fish are consistently dying in your tank, but you don’t seem to question why.

No filter or heater for the babies, in un cycled water, probably over feeding. None of this is correct.

You’re concerned about the color of your fry?

I think you should try and give them away and put the whole fish thing on hold until you’re able or willing to take the time to educate yourself on cycling your tank and provide an adequate environment for the species you want to keep.

Your fish are dying because your water parameters are not proper, neither is your temperature, poor mix of species in a 20 gallon, probably a lack of water changes resulting in high ammonia. Those things are obvious but there could be many other things wrong.

If you want to keep the babies, it’s going to be extremely hard to give you advice to obtain ‘perfect conditions’ for the fry. Get a heater, do water changes everyday with something like Prime. Get a low flow filter like a turtle filter. Keep doing water changes. Don’t over feed. Assume the filter establishes bacteria in 4-6 weeks, so you can ease up on water changes then go to 1-2 times a week, 30-50% depending on your best guess of toxins are in your tank.
Try and guess your parameters the best you can so more fish don’t die (?). This will give the fry good conditions.
Thank you so much for being HONEST. I realized how wrong I am going. Well, I have added a sponge at the mouth of the internal filter to reduce filter flow and also provide more space for beneficial bacteria colonies.
When it comes to the nitrogen cycle, I educated myself enough prior to getting into the hobby but I miss a very essential component, that's water testing. We previously kept the same aquarium without any water tests and it did very nice for about 2 years and then we retired from the hooby. I will definitely follow your advice and do PWCs every day and vacuum the substrate. I also have a heater but its old, its still working but I don't want to take any risk with it, what if something goes wrong with the thermostat and they all boil to death? The water that I use doesn't have chlorines or chloramines (as told by my LFS) and they I use "Rid - All Anti - Ich" with every water change (as told by my LFS). It has mythelene blue in it which, according to my research, is good for fry.

I hope I am able to give them a good life.
Thnx

I will also keep you guys posted with how my tank is doing

Also, can you suggest some fish which may be alright for my 20 gallon (after I have cycled, in about a month or so? ). I am not very sure about the heater thingy, so any cold water fish out there?

Also, I have heard that algae forms a major part of molly fry diet. Is this true? If yes, I don't see much algae in the tank (they keep on nibbling on the toy and plants and substrate, are they searching for it?). I know this is gonna sound weird (like many other things I said) but how can I promote algae growth??
And And And (Pls don't mind so many questions), Is it ok for them to have a "little" stringy poop? Its black colored but looks stringy to me. Does this indicate diet problems?
 
Subhro
  • #21
Hey! One and a half week ago, I got two silver mollies and two goldfish from a pet store. I have a 20 gallon tank which I ran for about 3 weeks with a betta (I gave it away later on ) and an internal filter with pebble substrate, a toy and many artificial plants. I do not use a heater as the temperature here in summers is
usually about 25 - 35 degree celcius. Ok, coming back, the next day when I woke up after getting the fish, One of the mollies had already died and delivered a bunch of babies which the goldfish were happily munching upon. I separated the fry (22 now, 3 died)and put them in a tub. Some while later, my other molly also began swimming erratically and died. Now, I have given away the goldfish and I am keeping the molly fries in the main tank. I have also switched off the filter since the flow rate is high and unadjustable. I will just be using an air pump for the time being. I feed them finely ground betta fish food (since its high in protein and has spirulina) and hard boiled eggs and blanched peas on alternate days. I dont find them very interested in food but since they poop considerably, I dont worry much about it. Am I doing things right?

This is a very zoomed in pic. Best one I could get.

Some of them also seen to be darker and have stripe like things on their bodies. They also have darker eyes. Should I be worried?
I agree with most of the comments. Just want to add my 2 cents. Keep the filter running 24x7. If you have an internal powerhead filter with a sponge or just sponge filter, you can get a flow control valve from your LFS and attach it to your airline tubing. Then you can control the flow rate. Check the attached picture of the same. Regarding your molly fries, keep them and enjoy the process. Feed very little, more frequently and do partial water changes everyday for atleast the initial few days since you are probably having an uncycled tank. Your water will smell fishy if you have ammonia in your tank. You may reduce the frequency after few days. Also siphon out any of the uneaten food using an airline tube frequently. The fries won't produce much ammonia once the existing ammonia gets removed with pwc. So you should be fine with water changes every 4-5 days after few days. And don't use anti ich, that will unnecessarily stress them and moreover they don't need it. Get a proper water conditioner. If you are on borewell water, that's the only case where the chances of having chlorine or chloramine is less but then you have heavy metals in borewell water. So the water conditioner will help detoxify that. Specifically, seachem prime will be very effective in your case as it will also bind the ammonia and make it less toxic for the fish.
 

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ArowanaQueen
  • #22
I agree with most of the comments. Just want to add my 2 cents. Keep the filter running 24x7. If you have an internal powerhead filter with a sponge or just sponge filter, you can get a flow control valve from your LFS and attach it to your airline tubing. Then you can control the flow rate. Check the attached picture of the same. Regarding your molly fries, keep them and enjoy the process. Feed very little, more frequently and do partial water changes everyday for atleast the initial few days since you are probably having an uncycled tank. Your water will smell fishy if you have ammonia in your tank. You may reduce the frequency after few days. Also siphon out any of the uneaten food using an airline tube frequently. The fries won't produce much ammonia once the existing ammonia gets removed with pwc. So you should be fine with water changes every 4-5 days after few days. And don't use anti ich, that will unnecessarily stress them and moreover they don't need it. Get a proper water conditioner. If you are on borewell water, that's the only case where the chances of having chlorine or chloramine is less but then you have heavy metals in borewell water. So the water conditioner will help detoxify that. Specifically, seachem prime will be very effective in your case as it will also bind the ammonia and make it less toxic for the fish.
Ok! i will definitely switch to another conditioner and my filter is always on. And yes, the water does smell a little fishy. I did a PWC today. Will do again tomorrow. Do you recommend adding rock salt to my tank? I have seen that my fry like it.
 
Subhro
  • #23
Ok! i will definitely switch to another conditioner and my filter is always on. And yes, the water does smell a little fishy. I did a PWC today. Will do again tomorrow. Do you recommend adding rock salt to my tank? I have seen that my fry like it.
Rock salt helps in reducing ammonia and nitrite being absorbed by the blood but will not reduce its concentration in the water. Plus you might not be sure of how much to add and salt usually doesn't evaporate and it's concentration might increase if you keep adding it everytime. Only water changes will help reduce salt concentration and then you have to add that much salt back which you have removed using water change. I would advice not to complicate this. Regarding the heater thing, if you are in India (not the colder regions), I don't think it is needed in this time of the year. I have had aquarium thermometers since long time and I have always seen the water temp in the range of 25-26 C in my place. I start using heaters before the winters start to stop the temperatures from fluctuating. I know many people might totally disagree with my take on this and their reasons are valid. But you need to understand that our weather is very different from many other places. Just keep the water clean.
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #24
Rock salt helps in reducing ammonia and nitrite being absorbed by the blood but will not reduce its concentration in the water. Plus you might not be sure of how much to add and salt usually doesn't evaporate and it's concentration might increase if you keep adding it everytime. Only water changes will help reduce salt concentration and then you have to add that much salt back which you have removed using water change. I would advice not to complicate this. Regarding the heater thing, if you are in India (not the colder regions), I don't think it is needed in this time of the year. I have had aquarium thermometers since long time and I have always seen the water temp in the range of 25-26 C in my place. I start using heaters before the winters start to stop the temperatures from fluctuating. I know many people might totally disagree with my take on this and their reasons are valid. But you need to understand that our weather is very different from many other places. Just keep the water clean.
That was exactly my point! I will definitely add a heater before winter sets in but right now the temperature in Lucknow is very hot as it is.
 
Subhro
  • #25
That was exactly my point! I will definitely add a heater before winter sets in but right now the temperature in Lucknow is very hot as it is.
In Lucknow, room temp and aquarium water temp won't fluctuate in the summers. Get a thermometer and you will see. Winters, you will definitely need the heater.
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #26
Hey again. I just found a weird "worm" sort of thing in a tub of stagnant water (in which I previously held my fry, its kept indoors). The tub still has some fish food and waste. Below is a picture attached. Do you think its safe to feed that to my fry?

And if I plan to feed it to my fish, will it multiply on its own in the tub? If left for awhile?
 

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Shrimp42
  • #27
Hey again. I just found a weird "worm" sort of thing in a tub of stagnant water (in which I previously held my fry, its kept indoors). The tub still has some fish food and waste. Below is a picture attached. Do you think its safe to feed that to my fry?

And if I plan to feed it to my fish, will it multiply on its own in the tub? If left for awhile?
I wouldn't risk it. I feed my fry crushed up fish flakes. You can feed them brine shrimp as well and they will grow faster, but like said above your main concern right now should be getting a heater and cycling your tank.
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #28
I wouldn't risk it. I feed my fry crushed up fish flakes. You can feed them brine shrimp as well and they will grow faster, but like said above your main concern right now should be getting a heater and cycling your tank.
Okay! Thanx

I will be doing PWCs everyday from now on.....Also added an extra sponge on the filter mouth (to reduce filter flow and provide more space for bacteria).....I hope everything works out well. Fingers crossed.

Any answers for the last 3 questions? Pleeeeasee?
 
Shrimp42
  • #29
A

Any answers for the last 3 questions? Pleeeeasee?
Heaters aren't hard to setup. Just attach it in the tank then plug it in. White stringy poop usually means parasites but if its black it may mean something else, I'm not sure. Molly fish will do fine with flakes, its just that in the wild they eat algae.
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #30
Thank you big time!
 
Subhro
  • #31
Hey again. I just found a weird "worm" sort of thing in a tub of stagnant water (in which I previously held my fry, its kept indoors). The tub still has some fish food and waste. Below is a picture attached. Do you think its safe to feed that to my fry?

And if I plan to feed it to my fish, will it multiply on its own in the tub? If left for awhile?
Never feed any worms before knowing its source because it might have something which will then be in your fish's stomach. Freeze dried worms are much safer provided they are from a reliable source. As rightly pointed out by RomanNoodles96, you can just feed them normal crushed powdered flakes. But if you want the growth to be fast, daphnia worms and baby brine shrimp can almost make your fries grow twice as fast. However, if your water has ammonia or nitrites (uncycled tank or new tank syndrome), you may feed whatever you want, the growth will be slow because the fishes will remain in stress.
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #32
According to my research, they are drain fly larvae. Although, going by your opinions, I will stick to the crushed optimum betta pellets for now.
I also tried feeding them infusoria. They seemed to enjoy it but I guess they are too big to feed on that anymore.

Help!! My fry seem to be fighting. I do not know the reason why. They are also scavenging for food. Can it be possible that they are hungry?

I just fed them though.....I don't know why this behaviour is occuring
 
Shrimp42
  • #33
They are chasing each other trying to mate more than likely. How old are they? Its all good unless you have more males then females.
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #34
They are chasing each other trying to mate more than likely. How old are they? Its all good unless you have more males then females.
They are only 2 weeks and a day old. How can they mate? I think they should be at least 2 months old for that.
 
Shrimp42
  • #35
They are only 2 weeks and a day old. How can they mate? I think they should be at least 2 months old for that.
They aren't trying to kill each other, probably stressed due to poor water. Thats why you need to cycle your tank.
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #36
I think people over here have severe doubts about my biological filtration. Let me clear things. My tank ran for about a week with fish food and filter on. Then I got a betta and the betta was there for 3 weeks (filter was not constantly on, but since its an internal one, I am pretty sure that the colonies must be safe) and then it ran for a week and a half with goldfish. Now it has the molly fries since 4 days. Do you think my tank is not cycled?
 
Shrimp42
  • #37
I think people over here have severe doubts about my biological filtration. Let me clear things. My tank ran for about a week with fish food and filter on. Then I got a betta and the betta was there for 3 weeks (filter was not constantly on, but since its an internal one, I am pretty sure that the colonies must be safe) and then it ran for a week and a half with goldfish. Now it has the molly fries since 4 days. Do you think my tank is not cycled?
Fish tanks can take up to 2 months to cycle without a bacterial supplement like tetra safe start or seachem stability. I would buy a bottle of one or the other and dump it in your tank. There's no way of knowing if its cycled unless you get a test kit.
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #38
Fish tanks can take up to 2 months to cycle without a bacterial supplement like tetra safe start or seachem stability. I would buy a bottle of one or the other and dump it in your tank. There's no way of knowing if its cycled unless you get a test kit.
Ohk....Well then I believe that my tank must be in the last stages of the cycle. I will keep up on the everyday PWCs. I definitely agree with you, no way of knowing until I test. Although I was wondering whether we can test for ammonia without test kits. Any home remedies?
 
Shrimp42
  • #39
Ohk....Well then I believe that my tank must be in the last stages of the cycle. I will keep up on the everyday PWCs. I definitely agree with you, no way of knowing until I test. Although I was wondering whether we can test for ammonia without test kits. Any home remedies?
Not that I know of unfortunately
 
ArowanaQueen
  • #40
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