Methylene Blue Hatching Angelfish Eggs

Discussion in 'Freshwater Beginners' started by Austin88, Apr 13, 2017.

  1. Austin88Valued MemberMember

    Hi everyone, it's been a while since I've been here. I hope this is the appropriate place to ask. I couldn't find a breeding section.

    Anyway, my Angelfish laid eggs and I'm attempting to hatch them artificially since they ate them last time. I have never done that -- usually let them get to wiggled stage. I am adding methylene blue to a 10 gallon aquarium where they will live (realized this may be a bad idea!). I'm wondering at what point do I remove the methylene blue? Is it safe for them as wigglers and free swimmers? Thanks!
  2. Sarcasm IncludedWell Known MemberMember

    After they hatch, you should remove the MB. It won't hurt them but it will prevent beneficial bacteria from setting up and processing the ammonia they will start producing. 10 gallon is a big tank to work with fry in, larger tanks generally mean you have to overfeed for the fry to get food. You should keep them in a ~3-5 gallon at most to start, feed 2-3 times a day, and I prefer to keep the light on for 24 hours for the first month. This will decrease the mortality rate on the fry considerable, after which you can move them to the 10 gallon. Well you can use the 10 gallon but I would put lots of plants in it to help provide food when they can't find what you giving them. Sera Micron is one of the best but expensive, Golden Pearls is also good, food for fry. Good luck and welcome to breeding.
  3. NavigatorBlackFishlore VIPMember

    I remove methelyne blue as soon as they hatch. I prefer letting the parents raise them, but sometimes if you really want the fish and have a shortage of space for the parents, stealing the eggs is okay.
    You are using the dye as it stains infertile or dead eggs so you can remove them before they fungus, and the fungus spreads.
    No eggs, no methelyne blue.
    I generally do rearing differently than Sarcasm Included. We all have different methods, I start the fry in 10s with cycled filters, but I always feed live artemia/brine shrimp for the first few weeks. My results with dried food haven't been as interesting.
    I too add plants as soon as the fry are moving around, as a good snacking source.
    I artificially hatched a large brood of Geophagus a few weeks ago, and went directly to a 10, and now to a 25. I am getting good fast growth.
    Different approaches to the same problem - on my case I have big bony hands and hate doing cleaning in small tanks! It's not the result of a great theory, but practical considerations.
  4. Austin88Valued MemberMember

    Thanks for the advice! I will remove it once they hatch and then seed the sponge filter I bought with some old media. Do you usually do a 100% water change? Or do you transfer them to new, clean water? I'd be a bit nervous to do either.

    I think next time I may start with a smaller container (like a jar?) in the 10g, but I have been successful raising fry from newborn wigglers in a 10g (although I failed when they got about pea size...). I'll be hatching BBS for them.

    What do plants do? Do they actually eat pieces of the plants or microorganisms living in them? I'm never very successful with stem plants so all I really have are root plants that don't grow in a bare tank (without proper lighting currently).

    As a side note, I'm pretty excited if these hatch! It's a phillipine blue ghost veil and a pinoy silver standard fin.
  5. Austin88Valued MemberMember

    If anyone is wondering, I have only a tiny batch of wigglers. Most eggs turned white. I seem to have a common theme of low fertility. Maybe the hard water. Time will tell if and how many wigglers survive.

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