Media to use in Oase Biomaster 600 Canister Filter?

Hi guys,

I recently upgraded from an HOB filter to a canister filter. An Oase Biomaster 600 to be specific. The tank is a 75 gallon planted tropical community tank. However, both my questions are about canister filters in general.

First, what do people recommend for types and amounts of media? The Biomaster 600 has six trays (five identical ones, first is slightly smaller). The current order (as it came from the factory) is foam with activated charcoal (embedded in the foam), 3x plain foam, 2x high surface area plastic pieces (not bioballs, they're a tube like extrusion with ribs on the ID). There is also a prefilter with foam. I think that over time I'll probably want more like 2x foam and 4x bio filter (plus the prefilter). Any thoughts on relative proportions of foam/biofilter? Also, what do people like for biological media? Ceramic sounds nice but is expensive. The Marineland bioballs look adequate and are cheap.

Second is regarding input and output pipes. I'm currently using what the filter came with. The output is a diffuser consisting of about 2 feet of pipe with holes drilled every inch or two. It sits a little bit below the water line. The input is a tube with a conical screen on the end, like an HOB filter has. The tube is long enough that the bottom of the cone is just above the substrate. What I am thinking of doing is shortening the input pipe significantly so that the input is say 1/3 to 1/2 of the way down the tank. My rationale is that in the event of an extreme mechanical failure, only 1/3 or 1/2 of the water in the tank could get siphoned out, hopefully leaving the fish safe. It would also lessen the amount of water on the floor. Such a situation seems quite unlikely, but you never know. Is there any harm from shortening the pipe?

Thanks.

 

Well, I've got a fluval 407 and an FX4 - I'm not familiar with the brand you have but they sound similar enough.

In terms of media, Id say they usually come from the factory with media for a 1/3 chem, 1/3 physical, and 1/3 biological filtration. I personally like to mod my filters with extra bio-media and sponges more than I do the carbon or chemical medias, so that I have about 2/3 bio-media, and 1/3 physical (sponge) filtration.

Marineland sells a very similar type of bio-media to the type you've described for their new model canister filters - where I work it's very expensive (compared to other options) - I've looked into it but, ceramic is cheaper than it.

The only problem I would think might occur with using bio-balls, is that they can be 'larger' in diameter - and you may not be able to physically fit most of them into the compartments - or you'll fill most of the compartments with 1 box. Whereas with fluvals ceramic rings (for example), 1 box might be enough to fill 1.5 compartments - You'd have more porous space with the rings than the bio-balls (I'd like to think anyway...if bioballs 'hold' more bacteria than the rings do than I suppose it would equal out either way, but I trust the rings personally, something about 'stone' and 'porous' compared to 'plastic' and 'porous' for my thought process.

In terms of the order, I put my bio-media first, and my sponge filtration second. My thought process behind this, is that the 'gunky' stuff will attract bacteria and that gunk will also sit on top of my bio-media a bit BEFORE it's totally strained out by the sponges. I believe that if I were to put the sponge filtration first, that the sponges would 1.) become gunked and filled up [clogging the filter] a lot faster, and 2.) block out that extra 'food' and 'surface area' that would come from the gunk sticking to the rings.

As far as...water rushing from the canister in general - It's not very likely to happen in my experience, I suppose the filter could still 'suction' water through it even though it's not running until the internal seal/suction is broken - but I haven't had a canister filter break its literal gasket seal and start draining water like that. I would think the worse case may be that the pressure on the motor/impeller well without power over an extended period might cause some wear. But so long as you drain passed the outlet (to let air into the hosing and break the internal water seal), that'll be enough to avoid water spilling from the tank through the filter.

I always keep my canisters in a small cat basin (that fits inside the cabinet too) - this way, if the filter does overflow or spill, it's caught in the pan and not all over the cabinet. (for small oops's...)

Shortening the intake pipe would change how the water flow in the tank is moving - but not by much.
I would think the worse thing that could happen from shortening the input would be that you may have gunk collecting in the corners underneath the intake (because it doesn't reach down far enough to pick up and remove all the gunk being pushed from the outlet).

 

I like to watch pondguru's filter videos.
Of course he's pushing his own product. I've used i like it but could use the same premise with other bio media. I like his media biohome as well as eheim substrat pro.

 

I personally like to mod my filters with extra bio-media and sponges more than I do the carbon or chemical medias, so that I have about 2/3 bio-media, and 1/3 physical (sponge) filtration.

This is pretty much exactly my plan. 2/3 bio, 1/3 mechanical filtration (plus the prefilter).

Marineland sells a very similar type of bio-media to the type you've described for their new model canister filters - where I work it's very expensive (compared to other options) - I've looked into it but, ceramic is cheaper than it.

These seem pretty cheap, even if I need 15 or 20 packages:

Amazon Link

Ceramic seems like it would have more surface area though.

As far as...water rushing from the canister in general - It's not very likely to happen in my experience, I suppose the filter could still 'suction' water through it even though it's not running until the internal seal/suction is broken - but I haven't had a canister filter break its literal gasket seal and start draining water like that. I would think the worse case may be that the pressure on the motor/impeller well without power over an extended period might cause some wear. But so long as you drain passed the outlet (to let air into the hosing and break the internal water seal), that'll be enough to avoid water spilling from the tank through the filter.

I'm not sure I follow your last sentence. Water could siphon out of the tank by gravity (say, if a hose failed or popped off) until the waterline in the tank is below the filter intake (or outlet, but in my case that's much higher than the intake). If the inlet is like an inch off the substrate, that would be catastrophic for the fish. If I shorten the pipe so that its halfway+ up the tank, it would still make an awful mess, but the fish should be OK until I notice the massive flood.

Shortening the intake pipe would change how the water flow in the tank is moving - but not by much.
I would think the worse thing that could happen from shortening the input would be that you may have gunk collecting in the corners underneath the intake (because it doesn't reach down far enough to pick up and remove all the gunk being pushed from the outlet).

This is my concern as well, but the way I look at it, the intake is at the far bottom back right corner. Its not like its getting great flow from the front left corner of the tank. Biological filtration should work either way, and I rely on the vacuum and some voracious Garra to keep the substrate spotless.

Thanks - a lot of helpful tips, etc.

 

I like to watch pondguru's filter videos.
Of course he's pushing his own product. I've used i like it but could use the same premise with other bio media. I like his media biohome as well as eheim substrat pro.

Thanks. It seems like everyone is in agreement regarding more bio media. I'll have to compare the various brands a little more closely.

 

I have a Fluval 404, same as the 407 basically. I have the first tray (at the bottom in Fluvals) with foam, then the final 3 are bio media. You want to get all the gunk out of the water first before it flows through your bio media and possibly gunks it up.. I don't use carbons and things as I've found them unnecessary.. I did in the beginning when I first started,, sort of the excitement of it all, but it was a waste of money for me.